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Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : Chimney Canyon : Muralla Grande : ... : Photo
By: longfeather When: Jul 17, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: on photo go right and climb lower face( dark spot ) here it goes around 11- got thin nuts and micro cam. Havent had time to complete but a cool face route is here to Var for some harder climbnig.
we cleaned the big ledge a bit
LE
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Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : La Cueva Canyon, Upper : The Pulpit
By: longfeather When: Jul 17, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: We just climbed a new var or so.
west face center ..find lower trash slings from old rap offs go direct two pitches keeping right of shredded slings or right of chossy red granite then climb slot with giant loose block. keep left of bolted belay ledge . climb straight up and clip a strange bolt . head direct up from there keeping right to summit finish on cool low angle crack . ( on start ood sport route potential to go thru red granite and climb arete)
noticed a fixed line on south side of... more >>
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Hallett Peak : Love Route (5.9) : Photo
By: longfeather When: Jul 17, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: We have climbed a fun Var of this that hugs the dihedral then finishes on the large, right-facing arch I believe it to be 9- and adds 100m or so to the route.
LE
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Location: NM : Las Cruces Area Climbing : Organ Mountains : Sugarloaf
By: longfeather When: Mar 15, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: I put manky rap route on west side two nice raps to base I thin two ropes are needs X wife stated they are still there , if I make it next weel I put rap bolts in and solve the shitty bolt shitty rap dilemma. I rapped off west side of top remember nice rap just diddnt have much gear to leave . Put me in west drainage and hiked down around to my stuff. There is great potential for a route in middle of upper n face are there any anti bolting guardians opposed prob goes old school three bolts per p... more >>
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Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : Chimney Canyon : Muralla Grande : Liar King (5.10+ X)
By: longfeather When: Mar 14, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Link ups are routesin my experience,and yes I agree third pitch is best and worth the frustration of climbing something climbed before, WE chalked this up good last year , and yes i still contend this is no second comming var mainly cause it takes you way off route for SC or SC VAR,, but Im sure the rock will be there this year , doesnt need bolt P3 goes 10 hardpro, thin lower face is xish though equalizing small cams is seeming to hold.
look for thin seams on lower face below big headwall led... more >>
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Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : Chimney Canyon : Muralla Grande : Warpy Moople (5.9 R)
By: longfeather When: Mar 14, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: theres a similar to The Granite Sea( ft collins CO pitch left of upper Warpy , It takes pro though is runout and like riding over waves, also a beautiful face up there that needs attention. Im not sure if ive ever connected anything up left that shouldnt be bolted .Time moves fast hard to get back over there,
Under roof and directly below I got direct start to roof in 90s couldnt figure out roof always fled right or left, turned blue one day there in a summer monsoon waterfall below roof. Def ... more >>
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Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : Chimney Canyon : Muralla Grande : Excitable Boys (5.9+)
By: longfeather When: Mar 14, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Bone Cage Var to Excitable , solo up for a bit then keep right at start od EB, stay on edge of arete , pro ok but missing sometimes, cross excitable at overhang P1or2 use anchor
P2 join ex boys for 80ft or so then go left climb up three pitches to summit youll cross football ledge left of EB ,P3 leave Football ledge twenty feet left of entrace to it , traverse into schroungy discontinuous crack system,P4-5 climb two pithch straight up to big tree where mtn club left giant piece of webbing.
200... more >>
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Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : Chimney Canyon : Muralla Grande : Excitable Boys (5.9+)
By: longfeather When: Aug 22, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: the fixed pins should go away on this route
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Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : Chimney Canyon : Muralla Grande : Excitable Boys (5.9+)
By: longfeather When: Aug 1, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: The older sandia guide is an excellent guidebook for texans. new book sucks too though has pretty picture. we need ocd psyco climber photo geek in sandias to climb for about ten years straight for a good guide. Sooo many routes I love it. lots of loose rock you better goto Palomas much safer a bolt every six feet.
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Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : Chimney Canyon : Muralla Grande : Excitable Boys (5.9+)
By: longfeather When: Aug 1, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: P1,2 link 58m 5.7+
P3 60m 5.9+ to football go L and climb cool 9+ roof at almost football ledge. you are 20ft right of crappy mashy bolts
P4 45m cl3 hike to near warpy . stop
p5 5.9 50m climb direct and rightish to grassy ledge 30m above football ledge. Climb cool 5.9 crack with exit OW easy there is fixed nut on this crack. keep going rightish to big sexy ledge. belay small pro.
p6 40m 5.6 to summit
much shorter and safer than WARP finish. with a little simul climbing 4 pitches. I have e... more >>
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Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : Echo Canyon : Yucca Flower Tower : Yucca Flower Tower (5.10b)
By: longfeather When: Jun 30, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: 10 b pitch is great
5.9 more like JohnD black canyon 5.9
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Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : Echo Canyon : Yucca Flower Tower : Yucca Flower Tower (5.10b)
By: longfeather When: Jun 30, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Climbed this weekend Great Great route
did Var start to south for extra pitch. Is there a route comming up right 15m or so of the 10 B lots of lichen down low.. 11- or so little scary but took pro.
if standing on base of yucca flower look right and low at bottom of gully climb face that starts with a handle bar right facing lay back.
climb up to buldge with loosy right facing overhang to gaston like placement red C3 TCU and gray c3 TCU for pro rps and # 2 camalot also protect crux.
co... more >>
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Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : Juan Tabo Canyon : The Needle : Southwest Ridge (5.8 PG13)
By: longfeather When: Apr 13, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: There is a cool VAR if you start right 9ish
Long Loose worth it better after next ice age
caught a bowling ball while a a belay lucky it was slow mover
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