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Member Since: Jun 25, 2002
Last Visit: Feb 14, 2012
Contact Lon Black


Point Rank: # 2,857
Total Points: 172
Last Year: 0
Last 30 Days: 0
32 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Lon Black been climbing?










Contributions


All 94 | Routes 5 | Areas | Photos 14 | Page Improvements | Comments 52 | Posts 5 | Stars 17 | Ratings 1
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Cat Wall : Mousetrap (5.12-)
By: Lon Black When: Nov 30, 2009

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Comments: Camalots: one #2, two 3's, one C4 #4 and one old #4, a C4 #5 and three #6s. You could do it with two #6s. Hell you could do it without pro, but three of them worked for me.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Cat Wall : 9 Lives (5.12a)
By: Lon Black When: Nov 30, 2009

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Comments: Soooo good. Solid 11. You will be smiling ear to ear when you finish this pitch.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Bihedral Area : The Bihedral (Upper Tier) : Thumb Tack (5.11d)
By: Lon Black When: May 26, 2009

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Comments: Of course...another line that Dan freed. This is SUCH a good line. Damn. Is it ok to say damn on here? Damn, that was awesome. If you're thinking about going for it or not, do it.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Battle of the Bulge Buttres... : Unknown w/ 2 bolt RF corner (5.11)
By: Lon Black When: Oct 16, 2008

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Comments: Very nice line with a sequential crux. I would suggest a little different gear: 3 0.75 Camalots, 1 0.5 Camalot, 1 #3 Camalot, 1 0.4 Camalot, two draws for the two bolts, and a #2 or #1 camalot for the roof slot (either will work).


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Avalon : Second Tier : ... : Fapanese Direct (5.12)
By: Lon Black When: Sep 28, 2008

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Comments: Thanks for putting it up. From the ground, I thought (hoped) the roof would be the business and the upper half would be more mellow. Nope. Spanked me. Nice and sustained. Very nice line.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Photo
By: Lon Black When: Jun 28, 2008

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Comments: Where is this offwidth? I did a search in Clear Creek Canyon for "Crack a Beer", and it didn't come up. Splitter


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Scarface : Big Guy (5.11-)
By: Lon Black When: Apr 2, 2008

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Comments: Definitely get on it if you have the gear, cajones, and grit. What a total body workout. You may not wanna eat lunch right before going up it.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Scarface : Twitch (5.11)
By: Lon Black When: Apr 2, 2008

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Comments: I agree Andy. What a line. I have never even checked it out as I walked by to go to routes farther right like Big Guy or Wavy Gravy. Friggin awesome line.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Battle of the Bulge Buttres... : Crack Attack (5.11-)
By: Lon Black When: Apr 2, 2008

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Comments: One of my favorite lines at the Creek...varied and 5.fun. Excellent pitch.

A #5 C4 protects the top of the wider section. A couple climbers said pro in this section wasn't needed. It isn't needed. No pro is needed, but if you don't want to take a 20 foot fall, you might wanna place it.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : 2nd Meat Wall : Tofu Crack (5.10)
By: Lon Black When: Mar 16, 2007

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Comments: Might want to bring two extra runners for a couple #3 placements before the layback section. Nice line.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Wall of the '90s : .30-06 (5.12a)
By: Lon Black When: Apr 16, 2006

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Comments: Lots of bird crap on this one. Also, try doing it in the shade. It felt really greasy in the sun.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Wall of the '90s : Roadrunner (5.11-)
By: Lon Black When: Apr 16, 2006

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Comments: Excellent line. Definitely a one pitch line with a 70m rope. Extend the two cams you'll likely place at the roof section and don't extend a runner when you clip the bolt after the roof. This will from going into the crack and keep the rope from having too much drag. Might save a #4 Camalot for the last piece before getting to the anchor. A #3 works too, but covers up the better jam.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Reservoir Wall : Slot Machine (5.11)
By: Lon Black When: Apr 11, 2006

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Comments: The protection requirements have changed since part of the leaning pillar broke off. Instead of a ton of #1 Camalots, you need maybe 5 #1s and 6 #2s. Also, take a two foot trad draw for the first bolt, then you can protect the first part of the open book with a black Alien, then a 0.3 Camalot, a couple yellow Aliens, a couple red Aliens, maybe 3 0.75 Camalots.

My buddy let me borrow a knee pad for my left knee. Use that and a left knee bar behind your right foot for probabl... more >>


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Wall of the '90s
By: Lon Black When: Jul 24, 2005

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Comments: As of 7/24, the shade exists on the wall until 1:30pm or so. Fun routes.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Wall of the '90s : Reefer Madness (5.11a)
By: Lon Black When: Jul 24, 2005

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Comments: Superb line. The thinner section around the fourth bolt (?) was the crux for me. The route includes nice thin climbing then somewhat rounded laybacks in a crack system finishing with sloping holds to top out.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Wall of the '90s : Wet Dream (5.12a)
By: Lon Black When: Jul 24, 2005

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Comments: Excellent line. It makes you think and is much more sustained than Curvaceous. I would say it's two letter grades harder than Curvaceous. Roof moves, arete climbing, a couple slabby sequences, definiteive crux followed by pretty sustained face above all make for a superb line. I just wish I could have done them all without falling. Maybe one day.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Wall of the '90s : Curvaceous (5.11c/d)
By: Lon Black When: Jul 24, 2005

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Comments: Fun route with good holds at the roofs. For those who wonder when it's in the sun or shade, as of 7/24 it was in the shade until 1:30pm. Nice wall to get away from the heat.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Avalon : Second Tier : ... : Free Fall (5.12a)
By: Lon Black When: Jul 16, 2005

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Comments: Since I'm a wimp, I clipped the crux bolt a little early. Actually, if you try clipping it one move before you naturally would, the right hand is bomber, and the clip isn't that bad. Seemed better than clipping after moving up and right of the crux, because doing so is pretty committing. Again depends on whether or not you want to take the fall down and left.

Nice route. Don't miss the little toe-in spot for your left foot at the crux.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Avalon : Second Tier : ... : Ripcord (5.12a)
By: Lon Black When: Jul 16, 2005

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Comments: In response to the AC: "No move harder than V3". I agree, but when you have five or so 11+ moves in a row, ratings usually increase a little higher than 11+. For example, in Indian Creek there are tons of routes that might not have a move harder than 5.10, but the route is rated 5.11 because of the sustained nature. A couple old school guys were out there today, and they thought it was 12 a/b.


Location: CO : Boulder : Upper Dream Canyon : Oceanic Wall : Dream On (5.11c/d)
By: Lon Black When: Jun 6, 2005

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Comments: Of the three upper pitches above the initial 10a pitch, this one is the easiest for me. It is by no means easy, but relative to the one to the left and the one to the right, it is a touch easier. The left pitch has a crux that seems a little harder than this one, and the right route feels at least a grade harder.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Supercrack Buttress : Keyhole Flake (5.10)
By: Lon Black When: Apr 10, 2005

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Comments: The awkward sections require some thought and footwork atypical of most Indian Creek splitters. Nice weight shifts and changing crack sizes and angles make this a fun, unique line.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Castle Valley : The Nuns : Holier Than Thou (5.11c)
By: Lon Black When: Oct 4, 2004

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Comments: I only climbed the first pitch since we didn't have much sunlight left after Fine Jade. The route was cool. As the description states, some of the clips require you to do some tough moves above pro. Don't forget to bring your cajones.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Fisher Towers : Ancient Art
By: Lon Black When: Oct 4, 2004

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Comments: The three star rating is for the exposure rather than the rock quality. Yeah it isn't solid sandstone during the lower 2/3 of the climb, but the exposure is something you have to experience. The lower face before the chimney has four clips and goes around 10+. I think the book says the chimney goes at a 5.9. Technically, it was a little easier than 5.9, but I guess the dirt and sandy nature of this pitch increases the difficulty a bit. We soloed up the first part of the climb and then linke... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Bowling Alley : Lower Right Side : A Tall Cool One (5.12a)
By: Lon Black When: Sep 27, 2004

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Comments: Excellent route with some problem solving. Would be a three star if it weren't so close to traffic noise. Myself and two friends did the lower crux differently a couple days ago. The upper crux was good for me. I almost hung because of the difficulty of the clip, but I downclimbed three moves pseudo-rested and then went back up and did it. It was one of those spots and moments where you can screw yourself by having a negative mindset: thinking about a fall, fear, etc...but it was good for m... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Bowling Alley : Main Crag : Bad Girls Get Spanked (5.11)
By: Lon Black When: Sep 27, 2004

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Comments: One of the clips up high (2nd to last I believe) is a tough clip. I downclimbed to a decent stance and looked at the body position again before doing it. Nice route Dan.


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