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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : f. The Guides' Wall (Madame... : Immaculate Virgin (5.6 PG13)
By: Logan Schiff When: May 28, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Nice underrated climb. Definitely runout on second pitch but probably no harder than 5.5.
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : f. The Guides' Wall (Madame... : Columbia (5.9-)
By: Logan Schiff When: May 28, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Second pitch is pretty heady for 5.7 at the crux between the two rusty pins followed by pretty pumpy and very fun jugs. Very underrated climb.
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : g. V3 - Middle Earth : Middle Earth (5.6)
By: Logan Schiff When: Apr 28, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: I approached the P3 overhang from the left side by the Bombs Away P3 start this time. Felt easier, 5.5 or so, and was a bit easier to place pro higher up while holding huge jugs, though still not the most comfortable stance.
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : g. V3 - Middle Earth : Bombs Away Dream Baby (5.8)
By: Logan Schiff When: Apr 28, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: I wish I had read these comments before doing the third pitch. Very scary crux move that could easily result in decking if you blow it. Next time I will see if it's possible to get a tiny piece higher up before committing to the roof, which is pretty tricky and has no gear. I somehow envisioned this as one of those roofs where you reach up high and grab easy jugs, but in fact you have to make a few interesting moves first.
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : g. V3 - Middle Earth : Wonderland (5.8)
By: Logan Schiff When: Apr 28, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Definitely worth doing the first pitch on a crowded day. Agree with other comments on the bolt and pin, which effectively make this a potentially dangerous route. I put a small micronut a couple feet below and to the left of the pin.
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : c. Frog's Head - the Arch : City Lights (5.8-)
By: Logan Schiff When: Apr 23, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Crux is pretty weird the first time but gear is good. Runout in middle section not too enjoyable but the second pitch was really nice. Worth doing but not as classic as some of the other routes on this wall.
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Location: NM : El Rito : El Rito Sport Area : Super Slab : Super Arete (5.8)
By: Logan Schiff When: Mar 25, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Very fun route with good exposure and length. Could use another couple bolts, but should be safe with a careful belayer. I think a solid 5.8 leader would be fine on this as there is really only one 5.8 move between the second and third bolts. Top overhang move is fun too.
Sadly the weather got really bad as I was leading it and we couldn't do Clast Action to the right, which also looks great.
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : g. V3 - Middle Earth : V-3 (5.7)
By: Logan Schiff When: Oct 10, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I definitely missed the supposedly great nut placement in the V. Would have been nice but you can definitely get pretty securely wedged in there. Fun climb.
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Near Trapps : a. Beginning of cliff to Ge... : Layback (5.5)
By: Logan Schiff When: Sep 5, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: #4 for the start of the offwidth felt like a key placement to prevent it from being pretty runout. Initial chimney was really awkward for me. Definitely a tough lead for 5.5. Second pitch is airy and worth doing. Probably about 5.3. Probably could link the pitches up if careful.
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Near Trapps : a. Beginning of cliff to Ge... : Yellow Ridge (5.7)
By: Logan Schiff When: Sep 5, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great climb! Initial traverse start felt 5.6 if you find the right handholds (i.e. not the undercling). Otherwise easily harder.
A #4 would definitely be nice for the start of the offwidth. I tried getting my whole body in the offwidth and found it very uncomfortable.
Thought the pro on the final pitch was a little sparse at times, though it was getting late in the day, so maybe I just wasn't looking carefully enough. There are a few pins to clip.
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : h. The Arrow Wall - CCK : The Last Will Be First (5.6)
By: Logan Schiff When: Aug 28, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Only did the first pitch, but I really enjoyed it. Climbing is no harder than 5.6 but some of the gear placements are tricky/thin and there is a good amount of climbing above gear. Wouldn't recommend it as an entry level 5.6 lead climb. Bring a good amount of draws/gear since the pitch is quite long.
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : a. The Uberfall : Laurel (5.7)
By: Logan Schiff When: Aug 7, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Fun lead though start is definitely polished.
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : g. V3 - Middle Earth : Alley Oop (5.7)
By: Logan Schiff When: Aug 1, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: First pitch is fun and worth doing. Rings at top. Crux at ground much easier if you are taller. Second pitch if blah. Third pitch definitely not worth doing as the only descent option visible was a rusty bolt on an ancient cordelette on a small tree.
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : i. High E : Ursula (5.5)
By: Logan Schiff When: Jul 25, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great climb but stiff for the grade. I agree with Kevin that pitch 2 feels like PG at the start getting over the initial crux move.
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : a. The Uberfall : Horseman (5.5)
By: Logan Schiff When: Jul 25, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great climb! Moves are on the soft side for Gunks 5.5, but I still find it a somewhat heady/uncomfortable lead. Gear placement is ample but occasionally thoughtful, good amount of exposure, some of the footholds before the traverse are a tiny bit awkward, and there is the potential for a good amount of rope drag if you don't extend enough.
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : c. Frog's Head - the Arch : Baby (5.6)
By: Logan Schiff When: Jul 16, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Nice climb. I'm no offwidth specialist, but I still found the move to be pretty manageable, probably even a bit on the easy side for Gunks 5.6. A #4 cam worked well in the lower portion of the offwidth section (#5 would get you pro higher up). Second pitch was definitely worth doing.
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Location: NY : Adirondacks : Keene Valley Region : Chapel Pond Slab : Regular Route (5.5 PG13)
By: Logan Schiff When: Jun 19, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thanks. That photo is quite clear.
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Location: NY : Adirondacks : Keene Valley Region : Chapel Pond Slab : Regular Route (5.5 PG13)
By: Logan Schiff When: Jun 18, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Jim,
I just tried the North Descent this weekend using the guidebook description. I made it to what I thought was the first rappel tree after going down the gully but couldn't find the hidden birch tree. Ending up doing two rappels, the second of which required a full 70m rope and a little scrambling to get to the next set of rings, followed by rock-hopping on the stream as described in the book.
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