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Member Since: May 13, 2011
Last Visit: Jul 21, 2015
Contact lloyd

Point Rank: # 22,929
Total Points: 4
Last Year: 3
Last 30 Days: 0
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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All 13 | Routes | Areas | Photos | Page Improvements | Comments 4 | Posts 9 | Stars | Ratings

Contributed Comments

 

Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : *Sedona Area : West Sedona : Dry Creek Road Area : ... : Mars Attacks (5.9 PG13)
By: lloyd When: Jul 21, 2015

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Comments: Thanks for the climbing lesson Nate. I guess we just better get rid of all ratings then, because all of them are relatively subjective and probably based on the finger size, strength, ape index, body proportions, height and weight of the climbers who establish some sort of consensus.

My crack climber comment had more to do with the line about P3 being the "business". P3 is a lovely steep, mostly stemming pitch with a little bit of awkward at the top. I cite the fact that there are many comments... more >>


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : *Sedona Area : West Sedona : Dry Creek Road Area : ... : Mars Attacks (5.9 PG13)
By: lloyd When: Jul 13, 2015

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Comments: P3: Standard Rack - 5.9+

Not a crack climber?

(3rd pitch is no more than your standard 5.8)


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : **Phoenix Areas : Pinnacle Peak : Loafer's Choice Slab : Dead Meat (5.7)
By: lloyd When: Oct 20, 2014

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Comments: I don't mean to be harsh, but F - that.


I've been climbing at Pinnacle Peak for a long time. It is a trad area and we've all done the $$$ shuffle to scramble some gear together. If gear is needed (and it is on most of the routes), then bring it, or head off to one of the thousands of completely bolted routes found within a two hour drive of Phoenix. I don't recall the bolts up there being that bad, but if you feel a (subjective) need to back them up, then pick up some nuts and a few/set of hex... more >>


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : **Prescott Areas : Granite Mountain
By: lloyd When: Feb 11, 2013

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Comments: The Classic route ends atop the Flying Buttress. You can scramble/downclimb from the top down to a ledge below the south side to link up with the Coke Bottle rappel route (this is tricky - be careful). The first rappel anchor is found on a large boulder above the Flying Buttress on top of the wall where Beaver Cleaver and High Exposure Exit top out. That first rappel is a long one (longer than most 60m ropes) so plan carefully.

Falcon bans are currently in place until approx. July 15th, 2013.


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