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Member Since: Sep 28, 2007
Last Visit: Jul 18, 2014
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Point Rank: # 1,460
Total Points: 407
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has llamaface been climbing?










Contributions


All 144 | Routes 8 | Areas 1 | Photos 60 | Page Improvments | Comments 12 | Posts | Stars 53 | Ratings 10

Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Glacier Gorge : Arrowhead : Glacier Gorge Traverse (5.7+)
By: llamaface When: Mar 8, 2013

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Comments: Can anyone provide some further detail on Pagoda's West Ridge? I'm wondering how difficult the "5.7" rating actually is. To give some context, I climbed the Owl in Boulder Canyon today, which I found pretty ridiculous for 5.7, but I was looking for something to compare to Pagoda's West Ridge. Should I pack some climbing shoes, or will a pair of La Sportiva X Countries suffice? I realize climbing ability/strength plays into the equation- but to those who have done the route, what are you... more >>


Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : North Fork of the St. Vrain... : Big Elk Meadows - Boulders : ... : Campus Problem (V5)
By: llamaface When: Aug 23, 2012

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Comments: I'm guessing this may have been cleaned up over the last several years? In '08 (when added), it was a choss pile ;)


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Long's Peak : Upper East Face : Kiener's Route (5.3 Easy Snow)
By: llamaface When: Aug 21, 2012

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Comments: Free soloed Kiener's Sunday, August 19th<-- Amazing weather! We started at 7am and discovered that Lamb's Slide was hard and iced over. We were able to head up the left side of Lamb's on rock/scree all the way to the top, traverse over on dry rocks, and we down-climbed on the right side of Lamb's back to Broadway. This was the crux for us, because it was steep and we found ourselves on loose scree the whole way back down to the Broadway entrance. It would be MUCH better to cross Lam... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Flagstaff : Upper Y Traverse : Pinch Bulge Sit Down (V4-5)
By: llamaface When: Jan 3, 2009

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Comments: It seems to me that a big factor to separating the V3 variation "Pinch Bulge", and the V6 "Tall Man Shutdown" would be in what's done with the feet after the initial big toss, more than the hands.

That being said- what I was shown and told as the big difference between the two problems was that you needed to stay right of a crack/seam that runs up the entire face, just left of the two low starting holds. I was also told (like Matt said) that you can't match the flake.

So I could be totally wr... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Flagstaff : Red Wall
By: llamaface When: Jan 2, 2009

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Comments: Does anyone know the name/grade of the two move wonder problem on the east side of this block? It's a lonely problem on the back of the boulder....


Location: UT : Joe's Valley : New Joe's : Area 51 : Resident Evil (V10) : Photo
By: llamaface When: Dec 1, 2008

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Comments: Matt, you are such a hottie. I wish I was there to give you a spot, so I could touch your bulging back muscles :)


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Dark Side : Suspender Man (5.11)
By: llamaface When: Dec 1, 2008

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Comments: Does anyone have any good beta for the "reachy move"? I did the move (after about 15 attempts) with a heel hook out right and I barely got my finger tips on the bottom of the flat edge, and bumped up. It was extremely strenuous. Just the one move itself felt a lot harder than V4! I can see the rest of the route being 5.11, but come on, what am I missing :)(And PLEASE don't tell me to use that crap intermediate....)


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Vault : The Gem (5.12c)
By: llamaface When: Oct 19, 2008

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Comments: I couldn't believe this route wasn't posted. If anyone knows the FA I'll add....


Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : North Fork of the St. Vrain... : Big Elk Meadows - Boulders : ... : The Vision (V4)
By: llamaface When: May 29, 2008

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Comments: Rylan... the DB, the second ascentionist, and the visionary- nice pic.


Location: CO : Denver South : Castlewood Canyon SP : The Grocery Store Walls : Bozo No No (5.11a)
By: llamaface When: Nov 20, 2007

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Comments: Just got on this today- first, second, and I think third bolts are ALL spinning... just a heads up for anyone that's looking to lead this line.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flagstaff : Red Wall : Center Left (V4)
By: llamaface When: Oct 20, 2007

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Comments: Every time I get on this problem I feel so close; but alas, it always eludes me. I have never projected a V3 for so long... it puts a smile on my face.
-You ridiculous V3... I WILL stand on top and look down upon you!


Location: CO : Denver South : Castlewood Canyon SP : Bouldering problems : Miscellaneous Castlewood Bo... : Little Devil (V11 X)
By: llamaface When: Oct 20, 2007

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Comments: What's the beta for the feet on the dyno to the lip? I tried a left heel-hook on the arete with a right toe on a pretty much non-existent "nubbin"<-(broke maybe?)- but kept taking huge falls. Has anyone had any luck with better feet? I'm 6'2" and it feels like my feet are really high. It seems like this problem would be a little easier for shorter people: maybe more like V12/13 for taller folk?