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Member Since: Jun 24, 2009
Last Visit: Aug 12, 2014
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Point Rank: # 8,827
Total Points: 28
Last Year: 3
Last 30 Days: 0
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 34 | Routes | Areas | Photos | Page Improvments | Comments 28 | Posts 2 | Stars 4 | Ratings
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: UT : Moab Area : Crackhouse : The Crackhouse (5.13- V7)
By: ljh When: Apr 23, 2014

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Comments: What he (Schulte) said. ;)


Location: UT : Moab Area : River Road : Big Bend Bouldering Area : Army of Darkness Boulder : Queen Amadala (V7)
By: ljh When: Feb 16, 2014

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Comments: Just to elaborate--this is a new variation of Jedi--but using a flat crimp that never existed before last year, right of the old "big move" left finger slot. Jedi can still be done in its original state but it is now an eliminate--Amadala is now the logical and obvious way, and significantly easier than Jedi. Though the line climbs more consistently w the new edge hold, it's quite sad, because though it may have been inadvertently chipped, it was definitely and intentionally heavily enhanced. Th... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Kane Springs Canyon : Ice Cream Parlor : Hot Karl Sunday (5.10c)
By: ljh When: Oct 3, 2013

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Comments: Hilarious debate.
I gave it the 11a rating on first free ascent--so guess I'm the soft one!
But FAs are always different from subsequent ascents all who do them know. And it's on ss so could be 5.6 or 5.13 by tomorrow.
Never knew what the route actually got named in the end—not a fan.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Mill Creek : The Wicked Crag : Scavenger (5.12d)
By: ljh When: Nov 12, 2011

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Comments: 12D is etched on the 1st bolt but the route got easier, as previously mentioned, when erosion filled in the start. Most people think its 12c after they have the moves wired, esp the first move, but there have been plenty of tantrums witness prior to the red-point chip-down.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Mill Creek : Other Mill Creek Areas : Sepultura (5.12b R)
By: ljh When: Nov 12, 2011

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Comments: "R' is a good bit of a stretch.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Mill Creek : The Wicked Crag : Ferns Have Feelings Too (5.11)
By: ljh When: Nov 12, 2011

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Comments: FA Noah BIgwood


Location: UT : Moab Area : River Road : Northside Routes : El Secondo (5.9)
By: ljh When: May 2, 2011

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Comments: Re. the other Fun Ramp area routes—there is a historic Peregrine Falcon nest site there. Please stay off those routes 3/1-9/1. I'm not sure if the NPS has ever issued an official seasonal closure, but this pair/site is one of the most frequently monitored pairs in the area and I have to hear about it from the bio-peeps allll the time when they see climbers on routes there durng the breeding season.


Location: UT : Moab Area : River Road : Northside Routes : El Secondo (5.9)
By: ljh When: May 2, 2011

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Comments: El Segundo, I believe. (I know, details, details … )
AKA : Bobo Did It


Location: UT : Moab Area : Potash Road : Day Canyon : Day Canyon Cragging Routes : Android Waffle Hot Line (5.10b)
By: ljh When: Apr 26, 2011

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Comments: This route is actually named "Android's Waffle Hot Line" and the FA was Kyle and Eric Johnson—done in the days when FAs took two (or more) to tango.



Location: UT : Moab Area : Potash Road : Day Canyon : Day Canyon Cragging Routes : Kiss of the Spider Women (5.12)
By: ljh When: Apr 26, 2011

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Comments: This route is actually named "Kiss of the Spider Women" and the FA was a team effort: Jimmy Dunn, El Craigo Diablo and The Spider Women (who found and started the line), thus the name. It was decided for the fun of it, no one in the FA party would be "allowed" to go up more than one piece on their turn on the sharp end—a true team effort! (Many routes were put up in this style during that "era" by this group.)
El Craigo actually never advanced a piece, but rounded the roof to the stance and dril... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Lost World Butte Area
By: ljh When: Apr 4, 2011

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Comments: Could (have?) any of the c1 routes been freed?


Location: UT : Moab Area : Lost World Butte Area : Tombstone : The Epitaph (5.10+)
By: ljh When: Apr 4, 2011

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Comments: This place is rad.
Though after 20 years here I still am often left to wonder … what is the standard desert rack?!
;-)


Location: UT : Moab Area : High Valley
By: ljh When: Jan 25, 2011

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Comments: Yes BJ, it is Dark Canyon and yes, Jesse you are spot-on—it should either be all-out or taken off. And yes, one of Moab's finest, but i sincerely doubt it is in peril of being pathed. And I say that as one of the early explorers of the area. And if the two who really brought it to fruition hadn't shared their find with the rest of us, one has to wonder—would any/all the above photographed and commenting even know of it? Sharing is o.k. That is what brought all of us there.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Crackhouse : The Crackhouse (5.13- V7)
By: ljh When: Jan 25, 2011

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Comments: pretty sure FA starting form "the birth canal" was Moab born n bred Tait Rees.
Dean did it later, starting from the face holds right of the cave as you face it.
Steph Davis has the only (to my knowledge) female ascent of the whole rig.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Mill Creek : The Wicked Crag : Tiki Man (5.13c)
By: ljh When: Jan 25, 2011

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Comments: FA: ED and Dean Potter, c. summer, 1996, fueled by the constant thumping at the crag of the Deadbolt song of the same name.
I'm pretty sure this one is given 13b/c … c if you need the credit, b if you don't. Often considered by "modern" sport climbers as easier than Aesthetics, which is give "a" (but was described by one ascentionist as "slightly harder than Realization." ;-0)
An "approach pitch" leads to a v4/5 crux, followed by a v7/8 crux, a dece rest, followed by another v7 to a bi... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Mill Creek : The Wicked Crag : Techno Christ (5.12c)
By: ljh When: Jan 25, 2011

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Comments: Details Details …
If you care to be picky about such things, the F.F.A. was Eric D.
Originally thought to be 13a and quickly down-rated after successive ascents to 12d, and again dropped to 12b after brushings and years of ascents made those razor-blade crimps as "big" as they now are!


Location: UT : Moab Area : Mill Creek : The Wicked Crag : The Sinister (5.12c PG13)
By: ljh When: Jan 25, 2011

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Comments: Tom and ED established this route and did in fact call it 11d.
The ground used to be a bit higher (as maybe were the ones who rated it such ;-) at the start. Sure made 11d feel a lot easier everywhere else.
Consensus: v5 to 11- to 5.10, so interpret as you will from that.
Yes, 4 bolts. 1st one is standard to stick-clip.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Mill Creek : The Wicked Crag : Crush the Skull (5.12d)
By: ljh When: Jan 25, 2011

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Comments: FA: Eric D, the man, the myth, the legend ;-)


Location: UT : Moab Area : Mill Creek : The Wicked Crag : Bowsprit (5.13a)
By: ljh When: Jan 25, 2011

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Comments: FA: Yes, Noah


Location: UT : Moab Area : Mill Creek : The Wicked Crag : Bow Tie (5.11a)
By: ljh When: Jan 25, 2011

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Comments: FA: Noah Bigwood


Location: UT : Moab Area : Mill Creek : The Sunny Side : Grateful He's Dead (5.10+ PG13)
By: ljh When: Jan 25, 2011

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Comments: Details, details …
Sp.: Verchick
Best clip for 3d bolt is the jug past it to the left.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Mill Creek : The Sunny Side : Pissing On His Grave (5.11+ R)
By: ljh When: Jan 25, 2011

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Comments: FA: Pete Verchick & can't recall … likely Kevin C. or Eric D., maybe BobNob, as all these routes were done ground up, which takes two to tango.
c. 8/9/95, thus the name of this route and its more appreciated friend to the left. Both established, if memory serves, the week of his death.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Mill Creek : The Sunny Side : Mother Hen (5.10a)
By: ljh When: Jan 25, 2011

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Comments: FA: Ren Turkuile, c. 2007. Called 10+/11-


Location: UT : Moab Area : Mill Creek : The Sunny Side : Magic Carpet Ride (5.10a)
By: ljh When: Jan 25, 2011

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Comments: FA: Pete Verchick, Kevin Chase and Eric Decaria. c.1995. Called 5.9


Location: UT : Moab Area : Mill Creek : The Sunny Side : Black Widow Arete (5.11b)
By: ljh When: Jan 25, 2011

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Comments: FA: Dave Medera & Kevin Chase. A bolt was added c.2000 turning "The Widow" (as she's colloquially called) from oft neglected to a must-do.


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