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Member Since: Jan 1, 2006
Last Visit: 7 hours ago
Contact Lew Strong


Point Rank: # 3,110
Total Points: 151
Last Year: 55
Last 30 Days: 1
11 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Lew Strong been climbing?










Contributions


All 139 | Routes 1 | Areas 1 | Photos 21 | Page Improvments | Comments 21 | Posts 17 | Stars 62 | Ratings 16

Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : Palisade Mountain : Horseshead : Feeling Loopy (5.11)
By: Lew Strong When: Aug 12, 2014

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Comments: The crux of this route is really burly. Not being flexible enough to get my foot up to chest level to jam it in the lip of the crack, campusing off of good hand jams seemed like the only solution. The right wall is smooth and sloped away. The roof is truly horizontal. There might be some trick. There is a scary, wedged flake near the bottom where the climb first becomes vertical. Good route.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : Mary's Bust Area : Mary's Bust - main buttress : Convolution (5.11)
By: Lew Strong When: Jul 9, 2014

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Comments: Step up and left to some good crystals, then do a desperate tips layback to enter the base of the tube, then a flaring handstack will get you started up the tube. Lots of fun. Closely bolted - always on TR.


Location: WY : Devil's Tower : Durrance Approach : The interesting problem bel... (5.11d)
By: Lew Strong When: May 13, 2014

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Comments: Well--
all things turn bitter in the end
whether you choose the right or
the left way
and--
dreams are not a bad thing.


Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : Observatory Rock : Flop, The (5.10b)
By: Lew Strong When: Apr 1, 2014

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Comments: This is a really nice, steep, crack climb. The bottom belay anchors are left of the juniper tree that is near the top of slab section of Skin Mechanic. We got to it by rapping hard left from the Skin Mechanic intermediate anchors. You can't see the anchors until you are near the tree. The blocks mentioned in Gillett's book seemed very stable. The starting dihedral is delicate and balancy, but after that, it is all vertical to overhanging hand and finger crack. The top anchors are awkwardly pl... more >>


Location: CO : Fort Collins : Arthur's Rock : South Face of Arthur's Rock : The Great Corner (5.9)
By: Lew Strong When: Sep 26, 2013

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Comments: A really bad route.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Bookmark : Dead in Bed (5.10b) : Photo
By: Lew Strong When: Jul 2, 2013

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Comments: The slightly offwidth crack is about 30-40 ft of #5 and 6 Camalot size. By Vedauwoo standards, it would be 5.6. A single #5 seemed adequate.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : Palisade Mountain : Horseshead : Sea Biscuit (5.10)
By: Lew Strong When: May 28, 2013

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Comments: The route designation is somewhat confusing on this part of the crag. Sea Biscuit leads directly to Funky Gold Patina. In other words, Sea Biscuit is P1, and FGP is P2&3 of a really nice 200 ft route. Linking pitches yields a line that is equal in quality to Neighsayer. We found that the Sea Biscuit pitch goes well as one pitch. We did it by making an airy but easy step left off the roof to an excellent crack with good protection. The "crack" straight above roof won't take pro. The step across ... more >>


Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : The Coliseum : Ionic Column (5.10+)
By: Lew Strong When: Jul 2, 2012

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Comments: For some reason, this felt a lot easier than Lost in Time, which also felt a lot harder than Upside the Cranium or Panic in the Grey Room. The clips are all secure.


Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : The Coliseum
By: Lew Strong When: Jul 2, 2012

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Comments: The Coliseum would be a good area for working on hand crack skills. Hollow Man, Handcrack-a-rete, Planetary Pull, and Galdiator (to the tree) all have excellent sections of 5.7/5.8 jamming for 50-70 foot stretches.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : Palisade Mountain : Horseshead
By: Lew Strong When: Jan 22, 2012

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Comments: The approach to Horseshead has been worked out by unknown climbers, to whom I am grateful. It took us 35 minutes at a leisurely pace. No 4th class at all. The effort required is comparable, or easier, than getting to the Monastery.

Take Storm Mountain past past Combat Rock until the "T". Take a right. Drive about 1/4 mile, passing 2 bear statues on pedestals. Take a right on Snowtop Drive. On my odometer, I went between 1.0 and 1.1 miles to a left turnoff. It is marked by a prominent "No Tresp... more >>


Location: CO : Eagle/Vail/Minturn/Red Clif... : Wolcott Crags and Boulders : Upper Tier (Bocco Area)
By: Lew Strong When: Oct 26, 2011

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Comments: Could you be a little more descriptive to help identify the routes? I have been up there at least 15 times, yet from the descriptions you have entered, I have no idea which routes you are talking about.


Location: WY : Devil's Tower : West Face : Tulgey Wood (5.10a) : Photo
By: Lew Strong When: Oct 5, 2011

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Comments: It was like fun, only different


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : Mary's Bust Area : Mary's Bust - main buttress : Wingardium Leviosa (5.11a/b)
By: Lew Strong When: Aug 19, 2011

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Comments: The difficult to see TCU placement noted above is a green Black Diamond C3. It was in the vertical seam when my feet were about 8 feet above the last bolt. It is past the harder stuff, but a fall above would be severe.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Bookmark : Twiggy's Crack (5.8+)
By: Lew Strong When: Jun 20, 2011

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Comments: Hey Guy, is it named Twiggy's Crack in Gillett's book? Nice short pitch except for the little bush. I think that you have now done every named route at Lumpy Ridge.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Book : The Pages Wall Area : The 44 (5.10)
By: Lew Strong When: Jun 17, 2011

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Comments: This is better than the first pitch of Fat City, but you miss out on the 10a finger crack at the start of FC P2. Fun to do if you have done FC several times.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : Mary's Bust Area : Tick Rock : Ixodes (5.10d)
By: Lew Strong When: Nov 1, 2010

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Comments: I think that the crux of this is height dependent. Probably 10a if taller. The crux solution might also be hard to see. It is a somewhat hidden hold up and right that is a continuation of a slanting seam. In any event, the bolt is at your waist when you are trying to solve the move. The route is called "Ixodes"


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : Mary's Bust Area : Tick Rock : Nervous Tic (5.9)
By: Lew Strong When: Nov 1, 2010

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Comments: I finally had a chance to finish bolting this today. I placed another bolt below the intermediate anchors. Seven more bolts were placed to add a P2. P2 is similar in difficulty to P1 (9 to 9+). The route is about 160 ft. It makes a nice long, consistent 5.9 slab climb. 17, or so, draws to make it in a single pitch. The rock is good. I think that most of the friable stuff is gone. This is a good intermediate route.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Twin Owls : Rather Fight Than Switch (5.10a)
By: Lew Strong When: Sep 21, 2010

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Comments: I am not sure why this climb does not get more attention. One of the better one pitch Lumpy climbs. It is technically moderate but severely strenous (at least with my technique). The protection is good. A #2, 3, 4, and 5 Camalot will absolutely sew up crux. It is much, much harder than Gollum's Arch Crack. 10b/c, I would say.


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Vail Ice : Spiral Staircase area : Tourette's (WI4- M6)
By: Lew Strong When: Feb 7, 2010

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Comments: This year the ice is far above the last rusty bolt. Pulling onto the ice requires a couple of super powerful moves. Blowing the moves above the bolt would be an ankle breaker. Traversing in from Dragon's Breath and placing a 22cm screw with a long sling to clip at the crux would be a reasonable option to improve the safety. Nice new anchors. The bolts on the slab are pretty rusty.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : Mary's Bust Area : Mary's Bust - main buttress : The Brown Palace (5.11a)
By: Lew Strong When: Sep 19, 2009

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Comments: The aesthetic quality of this route must rival that of any other in the foothills. It really is beautiful up there, 600 feet above the river. The climbing is 4 star. It is well protected, and finely conceived. I suggest starting the climb with Deceiver, and cutting right at the 4th bolt, or so. (since some starting holds have broken off, Deceiver now seems 10a/b right off the ground, and it is actually in a natural line with the rest of the climb) The crux for me was the top of P3, but the cruxe... more >>


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Fall River Road (US 34 West... : McGregor Slab : Camel Toe (5.9+)
By: Lew Strong When: Oct 30, 2007

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Comments: This is a fine route. Thanks to the person who put this up. Clearly a tremendous effort, and well thought out. Pitches two and three are fantastic. Pitch four is fun. The fifth pitch is quite low angle, and it has various features that catch rappel ropes. I would do the 5th only for a walk off descent. If you have two 60 meter ropes, rap from the 4th belay.