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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Mt. Evans - mixed, couloirs : The Road (WI3 M4)
By: Leo Paik When: 4 days ago | view comment >> |
Comments: Nice find, Ben and Eric! Thanks! 11/22/9 the conditions are bit different. Not much melting it looks like up there, it's cold, brrr. P1 & P3 as depicted above are basically buried in snow. With loose rock, snow over ice, we belayed the whole bugger, 7 pitches. P5 felt like the crux. Also, not sure how it was supposed to exit, but we followed footprints to the left and finished on a chimney 5.6 or M4. Also, the approach felt like 5 miles, the descent felt like 7.5 miles, count on an aerobic... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - top to Xanadu : A Cut Above (5.12a)
By: Leo Paik When: 6 days ago | view comment >> |
Comments: Interesting bug in the consensus rating algorithm. V grades and 5.whatever grades don't seem to mix. The folks with who write up these algorithms are working on this one.
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Location: CO : Lumpy Ridge Trails Day - co...
By: Leo Paik When: Sep 22, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: From Greg Sievers:
| Lumpy Ridge Trails Day poster
Submitted By: Leo Paik on Sep 22, 2009
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : The Ytrid Deed (5.6)
By: Leo Paik When: Sep 15, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: No one to date appears to have submitted a description for Dirty Deed. Indeed, Ytrid Deed is in the same area, but it is a different route. Consider submitting a description if you've done it.
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Long's Peak : Keyboard of the Winds : ... : Photo
By: Leo Paik When: Aug 7, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Weird, this sort of reminds me of the ... edit ... getting old Better than Love ... on Hallett Peak.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Peanuts Walls : Upper Peanuts : Heavy Weather (5.9)
By: Leo Paik When: Jun 25, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Might be a favorite to some since it is moderate, in the shade, has great views, has brilliant lichen, and a pleasant break from brutal heat waves.
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Location: CO : Idaho Springs : Stanley Road or Frontage Ri... : N/A (5.9+)
By: Leo Paik When: May 1, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I wonder if this is the left route under this entry. Also, I suspect it is longer than 40 ft with 10 bolts.
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Location: CO : Idaho Springs : Stanley Road or Frontage Ri...
By: Leo Paik When: May 1, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I wonder if it is the same as this entry?
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Photo
By: Leo Paik When: Apr 23, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thanks!
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Stonehenge : Bladder Control (5.10b X)
By: Leo Paik When: Feb 19, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: FWIW, I don't know much about Old Man of Hoy except from Richard Rossiter's excellent guidebooks, but I thought OMOH was to the left of Thought Control...but I could be enlightened by someone else.
Edit: Jason Haas confirmed OMOH is left of Thought Control.
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Location: J. MAN : Ice Climbing : Photo
By: Leo Paik When: Feb 15, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Where is this route?
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Mt. Evans : The Aprons : 2nd Apron Right Side (5.7) : Photo
By: Leo Paik When: Feb 8, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I echo Jason's thought on the yellow line in this photo. With a wife 8 months pregnant (wow, that was like 12 years ago), 15-20 ft above the pin on the yellow line, I backed off. Funny, so did my slab strong partner at that time. From below it looked like R/X terrain and not too positive straight up.
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Location: CO : Golden : The Quarry Wall : The Mummy (5.8)
By: Leo Paik When: Jan 14, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: For a tiny bonus, you can TR the left side of the arete, probably 9+. Beats trying to boulder it. Also, this route feels much easier than the other 8s in the Quarry.
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Zowie : South Face (5.8+) : Photo
By: Leo Paik When: Sep 24, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Alternatively, you can use 1 rope for this rappel. 90' gets you to the 2nd anchor (to the north).
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Location: CO : Lyons : South Saint Vrain Canyon : Scout Slab : Git 'em Up Scout (5.9)
By: Leo Paik When: Jun 12, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Nice route. There is an alternative right start which adds a bit of value.
Bernard, that is called a figure-9. It's something used by mixed climbers, too...something you used to do. Much nicer to do without crampons, though. I'll have to go back and try it.
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Location: WI : High Cliff State Park : West Side : C. The Stairs and Tower Are... : The Stairway Tower : ... : Photo
By: Leo Paik When: Apr 28, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: James, you're right. There are hazards in trying to do too many things at the same time.
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Location: WI
By: Leo Paik When: Apr 23, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Anyone climb at the cliffs near Greenleaf off WI Hwy 57? One hiker mentioned it had the same Niagara escarpment limestone as High Cliff State Park but taller cliffs.
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Location: WI : High Cliff State Park : West Side : C. The Stairs and Tower Are...
By: Leo Paik When: Apr 23, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: This area can also be quickly approached from parking in the visitor parking slots in the campground near site 39 (closest) and/or sites 70/71/89 (next closest) and head NW. It's probably 50-100 yards from there. There's also lots of cliff nearby for many, many climbs. 2008 costs: $7 daily, resident $25 yearly (State Parks pass), $35 (out of state yearly State Parks pass).
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Location: CO : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park
By: Leo Paik When: Apr 18, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: According to www.Colorado.com it is $56 for out of state licenses.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Ament's Rock
By: Leo Paik When: Apr 7, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Deb's Arete is a short line on the left side of this tiny crag. Since Deb had done it, I was hoping she'd post the info, but I guess not yet. You can see the top of the line in the photo for the crag near the skyline.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Whale's Tail : Jack The Ripper (5.9+ X)
By: Leo Paik When: Mar 18, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: One of the oddities in the database is that if you don't add a comment or you weren't the original submitter, you will only get the difficulty rating listed next to your name without the danger rating included. This is an X-rated or VS-rated climb. Consider yourself soloing until the roof.
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Location: CO : Fort Collins : Horsetooth Reservoir : Piano Ridge : Sloper Traverse (V4+)
By: Leo Paik When: Mar 15, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is from a flaw in the consensus rating algorithm and there are various examples of oddities within the database. We'll have the person who wrote the algorithm look at it and try to address it. Thanks for pointing out this.
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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Vail Ice : Spiral Staircase area : Spiral Staircase (WI4) : Photo
By: Leo Paik When: Mar 3, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Wow, that's Secret Probation buried under there to the right!
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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Silverplume & vicinity : Silverplume Falls (WI3)
By: Leo Paik When: Feb 20, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Wow. This sunny, warm weather has taken a toll on the ice. It's probably 35-40' of snice with some rock top outs. Also, that left anchor boulder seems quite exposed, possibly not well anchored? The left central side is pretty thin and seems to be separated from the rock by probably 7 ft.
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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Emerald Lake / Tyndall Gorg... : Emerald Lake & vicinity : The Squid (WI5-6 M6-7)
By: Leo Paik When: Feb 15, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Today's "hot" sun seemed to cook this route. Seemed 5+, P1; 4+ P2, but it may not last long.
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