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Member Since: Jan 1, 2001
Last Visit: 3 days ago
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Point Rank: # 6
Total Points: 22,029
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All (6230) | Routes (626) | Areas (433) | Photos (1677) | Comments (883) | Posts (585) | Stars (1651) | Ratings (375)
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Shirt Tail Peak
By: Leo Paik When: Apr 4, 2014

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Comments: From Mike McHugh:

3/25/2014
Colorado Parks and Wildlife

Eldorado Canyon State Park announces peak closure

ELDORADO SPRINGS, Colo. Colorado Parks & Wildlife announced yesterday that Eldorado Canyon State Park has closed Shirt Tail Peak to all uses, including rock climbing, through July 15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles.

Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service unde... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Skunk Canyon : ... : Armed Forces (5.11-)
By: Leo Paik When: Mar 18, 2014

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Comments: We swapped out the sun-bleached white (formerly chartreuse) sling with a bit of cord through bolt smashlinks and a quicklink. The rope pulls easily now. You can also now clip a biner into both SMC hangers.


Location: CO : Golden : North Table Mountain/Golden... : Overhang Area : This Ain't Naturita, Pilgri... (5.9)
By: Leo Paik When: Mar 16, 2014

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Comments: There is a nice variation that starts in the chimney of Natural Fact, moves into the dihedral of the pillar to its left, and continues on the face bit of This Ain't Naturita, Pilgrim. Small cams, perhaps even double yellow Aliens/TCUs and a longer sling are useful.


Location: CO : Colorado Woman missing from...
By: Leo Paik When: Mar 12, 2014

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Comments: Sadly, the news agencies reported a bone fragment being found that belonged to her downstream. One report is here.


Location: CO : South Platte : Staunton State Park
By: Leo Paik When: Feb 4, 2014

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Comments: From Monty:

Updated 2/5/14:

The 2014 seasonal falcon closures are:

- Lion's Head
- The Ranch Hand
- The Park View Dome
- The Sawmill Crags
- Rough Neck Wall
- Black Creek Wall

These are in effect from Feb. 1 - Aug. 1.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Blob Rock Area
By: Leo Paik When: Feb 3, 2014

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Comments: From Bev Baker:

Date: Feb. 3, 2014

BOULDER, Colo. The Boulder Ranger District of the Arapaho and Roosevelt National Forests implemented its annual area closures at Security Risk, Eagle Rock, Blob Rock, and Bitty Buttress in Boulder Canyon on February 1 to protect golden eagles during their nesting season.

These areas are located along State Highway 119 approximately 1.5 miles east of Boulder Falls. Happy Hour, Bihedral, and Riviera will remain open, as long as visitors stay out of th... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Bitty Buttress
By: Leo Paik When: Feb 3, 2014

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Comments: From Bev Baker:

Date: Feb. 3, 2014

BOULDER, Colo. The Boulder Ranger District of the Arapaho and Roosevelt National Forests implemented its annual area closures at Security Risk, Eagle Rock, Blob Rock, and Bitty Buttress in Boulder Canyon on February 1 to protect golden eagles during their nesting season.

These areas are located along State Highway 119 approximately 1.5 miles east of Boulder Falls. Happy Hour, Bihedral, and Riviera will remain open, as long as visitors stay out of th... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon
By: Leo Paik When: Feb 3, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: From Bev Baker:

Date: Feb. 3, 2014

BOULDER, Colo. The Boulder Ranger District of the Arapaho and Roosevelt National Forests implemented its annual area closures at Security Risk, Eagle Rock, Blob Rock, and Bitty Buttress in Boulder Canyon on February 1 to protect golden eagles during their nesting season.

These areas are located along State Highway 119 approximately 1.5 miles east of Boulder Falls. Happy Hour, Bihedral, and Riviera will remain open, as long as visitors stay out of th... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Eagle Rock
By: Leo Paik When: Feb 3, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: From Bev Baker:

Date: Feb. 3, 2014

BOULDER, Colo. The Boulder Ranger District of the Arapaho and Roosevelt National Forests implemented its annual area closures at Security Risk, Eagle Rock, Blob Rock, and Bitty Buttress in Boulder Canyon on February 1 to protect golden eagles during their nesting season.

These areas are located along State Highway 119 approximately 1.5 miles east of Boulder Falls. Happy Hour, Bihedral, and Riviera will remain open, as long as visitors stay out of th... more >>


Location: MA
By: Leo Paik When: Feb 3, 2014

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Comments: JD1984, there can be one. All it takes is someone to do so. I never climbed ice in MA. If you are inspired, have at it!

Edit: if you want, I can start it for you...like we did in Colorado's section.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Real Hidden Valley
By: Leo Paik When: Jan 1, 2014

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Comments: Geoff, you're right, it's more than 150 yards. It's probably 10 minutes west if you basically contour at approximately the same level as the west (left) side of the crag. Maybe it's 500-600 yards? From what I can recall, you can get a glimpse of the top of it pretty shortly after contouring west. Note, the Upper Wall is a bit higher up the hill, probably another 10 minutes and maybe another 400 yards uphill.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Blob Rock Area : Blob Rock : ... : Charisma (5.11a)
By: Leo Paik When: Dec 30, 2013

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Comments: George, my recollection is you didn't touch that loose block. You did some great stemming as I recall.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : Gregory Canyon (including T... : ... : Photo
By: Leo Paik When: Dec 30, 2013

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Comments: Tristan, they used them as ascenders in situations where we didn't plan on ascending using them. They were slings for leading. They ascended or tried to ascend vertical/overhanging terrain, they didn't hold, they slid down the rope using them...much to their chagrin.


Location: CO : Golden : North Table Mountain/Golden... : Overhang Area : What Line? (5.10)
By: Leo Paik When: Dec 18, 2013

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Comments: Jay, I just wrote down what we used near the top of the climb.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Real Hidden Valley : Upper Wall
By: Leo Paik When: Dec 13, 2013

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Comments: You're welcome. It's always fun checking out new areas.


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Ouray (Ice/Mixed) : Hall of Justice
By: Leo Paik When: Dec 9, 2013

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Comments: Ozman, we could move the routes to the Camp Bird Road subarea; however, we can't move the area under Camp Bird Road, because you can't have subareas and routes at the same level in the hierarchy on this website.

If we think it is best to move these routes, then we lose the Hall of Just page.

I hope this makes sense.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : Gregory Canyon (including T... : ... : Photo
By: Leo Paik When: Nov 30, 2013

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Comments: Tristan, with the slipperiness of Dyneema and Spectra can and has partially melted when used by partners of mine...which is what inspired my above post...scaring me.


Location: CO : Grand Junction area : Unaweep Canyon : Nine Mile Hill : Chinese Algebra Area : ... : Post War Dream (V2)
By: Leo Paik When: Nov 12, 2013

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Comments: Thanks for the reply. That second line from the left looks yellow to me. I edited in the change and added the route to the L->R.


Location: CO : Grand Junction area : Unaweep Canyon : Nine Mile Hill : Chinese Algebra Area : ... : Post War Dream (V2)
By: Leo Paik When: Nov 11, 2013

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Comments: Which line is it in the picture? I see a blue, yellow, orange/red, and purple line. I was trying to do the L->R sorting.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Happy Hour Crag : The Great Race (5.9+)
By: Leo Paik When: Nov 1, 2013

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Comments: It seemed as if the path of least resistance is, once you get pro to start, to be just left of the dihedral for a couple moves utilizing some small footholds on that little face to get started. Then, you can reach around into the dihedral. Going straight up in the dihedral to start seemed forced.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Prestige Worldwide Wall : Big Ellie's Little Crack (5.7)
By: Leo Paik When: Oct 18, 2013

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Comments: We cleaned off a decent bit of dirt and some loose rocks in the crack on this one, but there's still quite a bit of dirt in the upper crack. There are a couple wiggly flakes in the crack that'll probably come out with a hammer. You can definitely scramble off to the right and join the usual PWWW walkoff.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : Palisade Mountain : Horseshead : ... : Photo
By: Leo Paik When: Oct 14, 2013

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Comments: A tiny bit of Photoshop applied to this using "Auto Levels" results in:

Photoshopped for visual enhancement purposes.
Photoshopped for visual enhancement purposes.



Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Prestige Worldwide Wall : Slabs Direct (5.6)
By: Leo Paik When: Oct 9, 2013

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Comments: Okay, this one is a slight mystery as to where it is.

Is this the line?

Deb does something that may be 5.6.
Deb does something that may be 5.6.


or this?

Doug tries something 5.7 or 5.8 perhaps.
Doug tries something 5.7 or 5.8 perhaps.


or this?

Doug tries something that is reachy 5.7 or 5.8.
Doug tries something that is reachy 5.7 or 5.8.



Location: CO : Golden : North Table Mountain/Golden... : Crater Crag of North Quarry : Fragile X (5.11-) : Photo
By: Leo Paik When: Oct 4, 2013

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Comments: Here's the enhanced Fragile X photo:

Enhanced version.
Enhanced version.


The lowest block has been cleaned off. There was a block up and left of the 4th X that came off.


Location: CO : Golden : North Table Mountain/Golden... : Crater Crag of North Quarry : Misty (5.11d)
By: Leo Paik When: Oct 4, 2013

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Comments: The starting hold may have fallen off, probably a casualty of the rain.


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