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Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : South Lake Tahoe : Sugarloaf : Sugarloaf, East Face : The Mini-Illusion (5.12b)
By: LeeAB When: Jun 7, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: A #2 what??? friend or camalot
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Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : Echo Canyon : Yucca Flower Tower
By: LeeAB When: Jun 4, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: I usually just take a 70m on Yucca Flower Tower. The rap from the top of the tower is a stretcher for sure and we usually extend the bolted anchor with a full cordalette, so about 6 feet just to make sure there is "plenty" (ie: you are not reaching down to clip into the anchors before the rope comes out of your rappel device) of rope to reach the anchor at the top of the first pitch of Rawhide. The second rap is no issue.
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Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Crystal Cave
By: LeeAB When: Jun 3, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: I've added some photo topos with names of routes that I've been on and resubmitted the routes that I've done.
Please feel free to chime in with names of the new routes that I've just listed as "New #?" for the time being.
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Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : The Strip : Virgin River Gorge : Planet Earth Wall : Joe Six Pack (5.13a)
By: LeeAB When: Jun 2, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: I seem to recall a pretty reasonable run near the top, maybe 20 feet between bolts, not a just a few. You might want to do a bit of research before disparaging routes...
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Location: CO : South Platte : West Creek : Sleeping Rock aka Sheep's N... : Air Jordan Boulder : V3 aka Big Air (V3)
By: LeeAB When: May 24, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: As was the style of the time, this was first done from a stand start in the crack to the right of the arete, crossing the right over to a finger lock and then reaching around the corner and bumping up.
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Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : The Dungeon : 45° Boulder : Miss Jackson (5.14a)
By: LeeAB When: May 5, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: The no hands on Chimp Cannon would keep the grade down, I would think fluffy 5.13d.
I have heard as well that one of the holds out left that is typically used on Dragon Slayer is "OFF" on Miss Jackson. Also I'm not sure, but I was under the impression that this was a Timmy F route? Maybe some of the LA locals can chime in.
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Location: Monty : Random : Photo
By: LeeAB When: Apr 20, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: I prefer Donuts and chocolate milk, that way i can play it off as recovery food.
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Location: TX : Hueco Tanks : North Mountain : Lunch Rocks : Roughage (V7 PG13)
By: LeeAB When: Apr 20, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Not to mention the hole next to the boulder that leads to a drop off. The boulder itself has a sharp ridge that runs towards the problem. Thankfully when you are over all this you are on the V3 finishing moves, but you will be death gripping.
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Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Foothills Bouldering : Simms Park (Elena Gallegos ... : Upper Simms : Little Drummer Boy (V6)
By: LeeAB When: Apr 7, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Beautiful, tall blunt arete with a steep start and a slightly overhung finish. The top out is easier and high but not a total gimmie.
SDS from a squat position on the right side of the low steep arete. Some long moves back and forth between the aretes take you to a good hold out left. From here there are at least 3 ways to get to the obvious good crimp about 5 feet higher just above the scoop. Once on the crimp a few moves up and right or straight up lead to the top, thin or no feet.
Recommen... more >>
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Location: CO : South Platte : West Creek : Thunder Ridge : The Brown Wall : Thunderstruck (5.13)
By: LeeAB When: Apr 6, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Nice, Madaleine. It really is a cool looking line.
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Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Foothills Bouldering : U-Mound : Lower Mound (western cluste... : Photo
By: LeeAB When: Apr 6, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: There is at least one more independent line between the 2 V2's listed that starts from high holds.
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Location: TX : Hueco Tanks : North Mountain : Mushroom Boulder : Local Flakes (V2)
By: LeeAB When: Apr 5, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: ... and CLOSED.
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Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Foothills Bouldering : Three Gun (Tres Pistolas) : Crystal Ship and Glass Hous... : Vertical Knobs (V5)
By: LeeAB When: Apr 5, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: I saw the little divot, right where you would want your right foot to start.
Sharp is the truth, Dave opened his right thumb on the start hold after a handful of tries.
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Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Pendergrass-Murray Recreati... : Purgatory : Dracula '04 (5.13b)
By: LeeAB When: Mar 13, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: For me personally Paradise Lost is the better "looking" line (just something about arete's) but the movement on Dracula '04 was more interesting.
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Location: TX : Hueco Tanks : East Mountain : Dragon's Den : The Notorious D.I.G. (V9)
By: LeeAB When: Mar 10, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: The starting crimps on this thing are small and very sharp, I taped my tips for it.
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Location: TX : Hueco Tanks : North Mountain : Lower Lost Boulders : Lost Cause Boulder : Dean's Journey (V10)
By: LeeAB When: Mar 10, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Overhanging body stemming.
Very commiting reaching out behind you to the rail and realeasing the left hand to match. Great problem, you can't just pull harder.
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Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Ponderosa Bouldering : The Satellite : Pinball Simulator Area : Left Pinball Simulator (V9-10)
By: LeeAB When: Mar 10, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: What happened to the video???
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Location: Monomaniac : Stuff : Photo
By: LeeAB When: Mar 1, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Doesn't matter what they are so long as they're yellow.
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Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Cactus Cliff : Manly Bulges (5.13c/d) : Photo
By: LeeAB When: Mar 1, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Is that duct tape? and is this required beta?
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Location: NM : New Mexico, other Southern ... : Caballo Lake/ T or C : Bat Cave Area : Super Hero Wall (Grey Wall) : ... : Photo
By: LeeAB When: Feb 23, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Hope that did not land on your stuff below.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Scarface : Pop Quiz (aka Brown on Butt... (5.11-)
By: LeeAB When: Feb 22, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: As DTP states this is already listed as POP Quiz and is listed in the Idian Creek guide as such as well.
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Location: International : Europe : Spain : Aragon : Rodellar
By: LeeAB When: Feb 16, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: I was out there in September 2009 and while it was probably warmer than ideal I would not say it was too hot. It was probably too hot in the sun but since most of the good climbing is in the shade from noon or so on and it does not get dark till almost 8pm it was fine. You could climb in pants and a t-shirt, on the warmer days it was shorts and no shirt while climbing but there are days when the belayers are wearing down jackets as well so it is pretty varied in September. I would say that Octob... more >>
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Location: NM : New Mexico, other Southern ... : The Tunnel : Sunny Side : The Dig : Envy (5.13c)
By: LeeAB When: Feb 16, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route has the name Mercury Rising scrawled in chalk at the base for some reason.
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Location: NM : New Mexico, other Southern ... : The Tunnel : Sunny Side : Sunny Side (Right End) : Melanoma (5.13a)
By: LeeAB When: Feb 16, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Joe, I don't know if it broke or not. The only place it seemed as though anything could have come off was the hard move off of the 2 small edges in the middle of the steepest section. Was there a hold to go to with your right hand previously? If not and this has always gone up and left off of those 2 crimps it seems unlikely that anything broke.
The lack of chalk is a shame though as this is a great route.
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Location: NM : New Mexico, other Southern ... : The Tunnel : Sunny Side
By: LeeAB When: Feb 15, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: The approach trail for the Sunny Side starts between the 13th and 14th little rock walls that run from the pullout up towards the Tunnel and the trail follows the lower of the two ledge/ramps down to the river.
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