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 ADVANCED
Once we landed we headed to Font to find a place to stay for the night before doing a day of wine tasting and heading to Buoux.


Member Since: Aug 3, 2008
Last Visit: Jul 19, 2014
Contact LeeAB


Point Rank: # 25
Total Points: 10,130
Last Year: 154
Last 30 Days: 0
235 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has LeeAB been climbing?










Contributions


All 3392 | Routes 463 | Areas 141 | Photos 581 | Page Improvments | Comments 480 | Posts 337 | Stars 1187 | Ratings 203
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: TX : Reimer's Ranch : Dr. Seuss / Prototype Wall : Sugar (5.10d)
By: LeeAB When: Sep 10, 2010

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Comments: I don't recall anything looking drilled on this route, but I probably was not looking for it.


Location: NM : New Mexico, other Southern ... : Sitting Bull Falls : Big Horn Wall : Ghost Dancers (5.12a)
By: LeeAB When: Sep 7, 2010

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Comments: From what I saw this weekend it could easily be bouldered. Someone was dropped from the pocket section going between the 3rd and 4th bolts and landed on the nice flat area just infront of the boulders that make nice benches. Just don't blow it any higher.

PS The climber seemed fine afterwards and took a couple of burns on Broken Arrow.


Location: NM : New Mexico, other Southern ... : Sitting Bull Falls : Big Horn Wall : Custer's Last Stand (5.13b) : Photo
By: LeeAB When: Sep 7, 2010

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Comments: Maybe it felt low percentage because there is a different way to do it.....Talk to me DTP I'll let you in on it.


Location: NM : New Mexico, other Southern ... : Sitting Bull Falls : Big Horn Wall : Broken Arrows (5.12d)
By: LeeAB When: Sep 7, 2010

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Comments: Found better beta for the crux, hint: don't use the broken pocket...

The crux is longer though than the other 5.12+'s on the wall.


Location: CO : Durango : Cascade Canyon : Free Tibet Sector : Tibet Aręte (originally sub... (5.12c)
By: LeeAB When: Aug 25, 2010

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Comments: I did not have a stick clip when I did this and was wishing that I did.


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : Chimney Canyon : Muralla Grande : Thunderbird (5.12-)
By: LeeAB When: Aug 23, 2010

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Comments: Maybe you could start on Little Yellow Jacket and go to the 2 bolt anchor below the crux then do that pitch, call it Little...bird Jacket, sine you end up doing the last pitch of LYJ.

I was up there in Saturday so I missed the para glider action you are talking about, though it would have been interesting to watch, I guess.


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : Chimney Canyon : Muralla Grande : Thunderbird (5.12-)
By: LeeAB When: Aug 23, 2010

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Comments: The belay at the top of the 2nd pitch is more up and left on a left trending ramp.

I agree that some of the anchors could be supplemented and would be more than willing to do the work.

Did a nice link up between this and Little Yellow Jacket, call it Thunder...Jacket. Climb Thunderbird to the anchor just below the crux pitch then traverse about 10' right into the spectacular 4th pitch of LYJ. You could also link up after the bolt on the third pitch into the pin on the third pitch of LYJ, since... more >>


Location: CA : Los Angeles Basin : Santa Monica Mountains : Echo Cliffs : White Wall : The Power of One (5.13d)
By: LeeAB When: Aug 20, 2010

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Comments: If the bolts are bad, do the community service thing and replace them before starting to work the thing. Yeah it might suck but if it needs to be done, it needs to be done. You could try to get the FA to do it or at least come up with the bolts but that seems unlikely.

Mono, isn't it usually the case that a chipped route is built to suit? Not that I would do it but if you are going to spend the time beating the rock down wouldn't you make moves that were fun for you? which usually means moves t... more >>


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : Pinnacle Valley : WatchTower : Alchemy (5.11a)
By: LeeAB When: Aug 14, 2010

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Comments: Did this again today and it might be easier than .11-, might be .10+.


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : Pinnacle Valley : Hidden Wall : Good to the Last Drop (5.9+)
By: LeeAB When: Aug 14, 2010

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Comments: Jason, there is a also a very striking corner up and left of the route in the area of the second to third pitch that ends in a roof, one side of the corner was orange..I think.

Good to the Last Drop...or Leaves a Good Taste in Your Mouth. The first few pitches of this route were fine, they had their good and bad moments but it is really up higher where the route gets good. The belay at the top of pitch 5 is like a park bench and a great place to take a quick break and eat something (hand size g... more >>


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : TWA Canyon : Trundle Wall : Splinted and Screwed (5.12a)
By: LeeAB When: Aug 14, 2010

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Comments: First pitch is 3 stars, second pitch is 4 and the third is probably only 2.

Now you can get a pretty nice pretty full day of climbing by doing both routes on the wall.


Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : The Dungeon : Main Wall : Gangland (5.12b)
By: LeeAB When: Jul 25, 2010

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Comments: To get to the Loose Cannon anchors, you would clip a bolts about 4 feet to the right of the last bolt on gangland and then the last bolt on Loose Cannon. Depending on how you do the traverse makes the whole route feel different, you can traverse at the level of the connecting bolt or with the connecting bolt down by your feet when you are in the underclings that you could clip the Gangland anchors from which would allow a great rest just before taking on the final crux of Loose Cannon.

  • NOTE...
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Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : TWA Canyon : Trundle Wall
By: LeeAB When: Jul 18, 2010

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Comments: As of July 17th, the trail around to the raps for Trundle wall is terribly over grown. The cairns are still there for the most part but you will want to take something to deal with the encroaching brush.


Location: NM : Enchanted Tower : The Enchanted Tower : South/Southeast (Right) Fac... : Flotsam & Jetsam (5.12a)
By: LeeAB When: Jun 22, 2010

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Comments: Thanks for the route maintenance Eric.


Location: NM : El Rito : El Rito Sport Area : Rad Wall : Stroke Me (5.12a) : Photo
By: LeeAB When: Jun 16, 2010

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Comments: Looks like you are right. Moved


Location: CO : Durango : Turtle Lake : Bouldering : Big East Block : Bird Hole Right (V3)
By: LeeAB When: Jun 7, 2010

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Comments: The long move to the so called "jug" has either very low, very high or very bad feet and the jug is more of a shelf that is sloping to flat depending on where you hit it.


Location: NM : El Rito : El Rito Sport Area : Rad Wall : Bolting Barbie (5.11d)
By: LeeAB When: Jun 7, 2010

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Comments: Hey JAlbers, AOSR (and everyone else)

Your opinion is just as valid as anyone's. Grades are really just a suggestion and the community tries to come to a consensus as best as possible and there will always be outliers on either end of the average.

For my part, because of reasons you (JAlbers) stated, ie: no hard moves but the hardest at the top or bottom, I think Crack Attack is harder than Bolting Barbie. I will however not get into putting a number on either. Needless to say though, if I wan... more >>


Location: CA : Central Coast : Pinnacles National Monument : East Side : Monolith : Lardbutt (5.13c)
By: LeeAB When: Jun 7, 2010

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Comments: Sorry Adam.


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Sugarloaf : Sugarloaf, East Face : The Mini-Illusion (5.12b)
By: LeeAB When: Jun 7, 2010

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Comments: A #2 what??? friend or camalot


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : Echo Canyon : Yucca Flower Tower
By: LeeAB When: Jun 4, 2010

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Comments: I usually just take a 70m on Yucca Flower Tower. The rap from the top of the tower is a stretcher for sure and we usually extend the bolted anchor with a full cordalette, so about 6 feet just to make sure there is "plenty" (ie: you are not reaching down to clip into the anchors before the rope comes out of your rappel device) of rope to reach the anchor at the top of the first pitch of Rawhide. The second rap is no issue.


Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Crystal Cave
By: LeeAB When: Jun 3, 2010

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Comments: I've added some photo topos with names of routes that I've been on and resubmitted the routes that I've done.

Please feel free to chime in with names of the new routes that I've just listed as "New #?" for the time being.


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : The Strip : Virgin River Gorge : Planet Earth Wall : Joe Six Pack (5.13a)
By: LeeAB When: Jun 2, 2010

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Comments: I seem to recall a pretty reasonable run near the top, maybe 20 feet between bolts, not a just a few. You might want to do a bit of research before disparaging routes...


Location: CO : South Platte : West Creek : Sleeping Rock aka Sheep's N... : Air Jordan Boulder : V3 aka Big Air (V3)
By: LeeAB When: May 24, 2010

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Comments: As was the style of the time, this was first done from a stand start in the crack to the right of the arete, crossing the right over to a finger lock and then reaching around the corner and bumping up.


Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : The Dungeon : 45° Boulder : Miss Jackson (5.14a)
By: LeeAB When: May 5, 2010

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Comments: The no hands on Chimp Cannon would keep the grade down, I would think fluffy 5.13d.

I have heard as well that one of the holds out left that is typically used on Dragon Slayer is "OFF" on Miss Jackson. Also I'm not sure, but I was under the impression that this was a Timmy F route? Maybe some of the LA locals can chime in.


Location: Monty : Random : Photo
By: LeeAB When: Apr 20, 2010

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Comments: I prefer Donuts and chocolate milk, that way i can play it off as recovery food.


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