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 ADVANCED
Once we landed we headed to Font to find a place to stay for the night before doing a day of wine tasting and heading to Buoux.


Member Since: Aug 3, 2008
Last Visit: 2 hours ago
Contact LeeAB


Point Rank: # 26
Total Points: 10,131
Last Year: 116
Last 30 Days: 0
239 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has LeeAB been climbing?










Contributions


All 3393 | Routes 463 | Areas 141 | Photos 581 | Page Improvements | Comments 481 | Posts 337 | Stars 1187 | Ratings 203
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: NM : Socorro Area : The Box climbing areas : Spook Canyon : Spook Main Wall : Ride the Lightning (5.13b)
By: LeeAB When: Feb 14, 2011

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Comments: Hey Wes, look at it this way, now you can work it out and get the re-FA...and for what it is worth I don't remember using any underclings through the "crux" section, maybe up higher on the steeper juggy climbing.


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Foothills Bouldering : U-Mound : Lower Mound (western cluste... : Unnamed right of Africa (V2)
By: LeeAB When: Feb 4, 2011

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Comments: One of the two is listed as Unknown V5, starting on high crystal holds. "Africa" would be quite difficult in tennis shoes, though it has undoubtedly been done in them many times.


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Foothills Bouldering : U-Mound : Lower Mound (western cluste... : Hung Like John (V8)
By: LeeAB When: Feb 4, 2011

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Comments: I seem to recall being told it was something like V6? and maybe V5 from the stand but I've never really tried it so I don't know.


Location: NM : Socorro Area : The Box climbing areas : Spook Canyon : Spook Main Wall : Corporate Ladder (5.12b)
By: LeeAB When: Feb 4, 2011

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Comments: When I did this I thought it was a good climb and worth doing, though a bit on the thin side for my taste.


Location: TX : Hueco Tanks : East Mountain : The Dark Heart : Tall Cool Red One (V6)
By: LeeAB When: Feb 3, 2011

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Comments: I found See Spot Run to be more intimidating. Of course I had a spotter when I did this and two pads vs. one pad and no spotters when I did See Spot Run. In any case you really don't want to take the fall from the top of either, though both landings are pretty good (FLAT) all things considered.


Location: TX : Reimer's Ranch : Dr. Seuss / Prototype Wall
By: LeeAB When: Jan 24, 2011

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Comments: Adam???


Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : Pajarito Gorge : Main Wall- Upper Tier : Shake It Up (5.12+)
By: LeeAB When: Jan 21, 2011

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Comments: Jamie, so is the route worth doing, more than one star or is it just something to do once you've already done everything else in the area?


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Foothills Bouldering : Three Gun (Tres Pistolas) : Screaming Jihad
By: LeeAB When: Jan 20, 2011

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Comments: Just to be clear, I don't believe there is any glue on Screaming Jihad. At least I don't recall any when I went to look at it several years ago.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Way Rambo : Layaway Plan (5.11d) : Photo
By: LeeAB When: Dec 21, 2010

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Comments: Loosing skin on the shoulder as well I would guess.


Location: TX : Reimer's Ranch : Sex Canyon : No Recess (5.13a)
By: LeeAB When: Dec 21, 2010

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Comments: HA. I try to stay off of both, just harder to stay off of Learning since my wife wants to do it.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Buttermilk Country : Buttermilks Main : ... : Iron Fly (V8-9)
By: LeeAB When: Dec 13, 2010

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Comments: I did not use the heel, there is a subtle drop knee on small feet lower than you want, and thought it seemed quite difficult for V7 which was the given grade at the time. Easy to hit the lip and even the hold but hard to stick. Made my ego happier when it got upgraded.


Location: TX : Reimer's Ranch : Insect Wall (including Bloc... : Wild Spider (5.13d)
By: LeeAB When: Dec 13, 2010

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Comments: Rami, have you done Wild Spider? I know that Michael and Brian A have done it recently and had heard that they both thought it was 5.13d...instead of 5.13c. Having been on it, it seems possible that it could be harder than advertised. In addition, there is no need to dyno at the end...though that is what they both did.


Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Upper East Fork : Monster Wall : Mike Wazowski (of Monsters ... (5.13+)
By: LeeAB When: Dec 13, 2010

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Comments: Thanks guys.
It's really a fun, kind of long boulder problem. Sounds like Heath ought to get it done soon, don't know about Peter, I have not talked with him about his efforts.


Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Upper East Fork : Monster Wall : Cyclops (5.11d)
By: LeeAB When: Dec 7, 2010

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Comments: The start is so confusing until you watch someone who has it wired (Josh) do it, then it isn't so bad.


Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Upper East Fork : Monster Wall : Godzilla Meets Bambi (5.12b/c) : Photo
By: LeeAB When: Dec 5, 2010

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Comments: UM, that is the jug that you clip the fixed draw from.


Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Upper East Fork : Monster Wall : Mike Wazowski (of Monsters ... (5.13+)
By: LeeAB When: Dec 3, 2010

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Comments: I know that this route was being worked by both Peter Gram and Heath (from somewhere back east, NC?) as well as myself. So I'm unsure of who the FFA is on it, but Josh Smith bolted it and deserves credit for putting up a great line.


Location: TX : Hueco Tanks : East Mountain : Warm Up Roof : Thorny Toad (V5) : Photo
By: LeeAB When: Dec 2, 2010

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Comments: Weird distortion on the lower edge of the frame, makes your spotters head look squished.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Medlicott Dome : Medlicott Dome, Right : Bachar-Yerian (5.11c X)
By: LeeAB When: Nov 10, 2010

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Comments: I like the belay anchor on top...


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : Echo Canyon : La Vista : Daisy (5.13 PG13)
By: LeeAB When: Nov 7, 2010

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Comments: First 2 pitches are great. On the first pitch a couple of revolvers on the furthest right and left pieces (above the first crux) as well as a long draw on the on the bolt before the one that protects the first crux will go a long way to alleviate rope drag near the top of the pitch. The second pitch is really nice steep climbing with good holds except for the awkward mantel crux thing, the #3 camalot os not really necessary, you have a bolt at your feet and a pin is only one easy move abov... more >>


Location: International : Europe : Spain : Aragon : Rodellar
By: LeeAB When: Oct 4, 2010

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Comments: Finding belays should not be a problem so long as there are people around. Being able to use other people ropes is a whole different issue. If I'm headed somewhere without a partner and looking to get belayed I would take my own rope, and again before asking anyone to belay you watch them belay and decide if you think what they are doing is acceptable or not, there are lots of scary belay habits out there and even more so internationally.


Location: NM : New Mexico, other Southern ... : Sitting Bull Falls : Rose Bud Wall : Big Medicine (5.11c)
By: LeeAB When: Oct 4, 2010

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Comments: Though I'd done this route several years before, this past weekend it took me as many tries to do this as Kootenai Crusier...UGH it is kind of hard and in your face at the top and different than your usual Sitting Bull fare.


Location: NM : New Mexico, other Southern ... : Sitting Bull Falls : Rose Bud Wall : Firewater (5.10b) : Photo
By: LeeAB When: Oct 4, 2010

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Comments: How an you sleep with your self calling Kate "someone".


Location: NM : New Mexico, other Southern ... : Sitting Bull Falls
By: LeeAB When: Oct 4, 2010

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Comments: Were there this past weekend (first weekend of October) and each day someone in our party got stung. We were several routes right of where the hive is. I was on the first 5.11 that starts off the rocks on the right side of the wall when I got stung and did not hear or see the bee until it stung me. The other person was on the center of the 3 routes that climb from the flat base area. Both times the attacks came 1/2 way up the route or higher and with little warning.


Location: TX : Camp Eagle : Photo
By: LeeAB When: Sep 23, 2010

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Comments: Definitely looks a bit odd, like begging for sever rope drag. There is another bolt in the top left of the frame so I doubt it is the anchor.


Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon
By: LeeAB When: Sep 23, 2010

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Comments: You can find sun or shade which ever you need so it should be fine.


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