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 ADVANCED
Once we landed we headed to Font to find a place to stay for the night before doing a day of wine tasting and heading to Buoux.


Member Since: Aug 3, 2008
Last Visit: Aug 13, 2014
Contact LeeAB


Point Rank: # 25
Total Points: 10,131
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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All 3393 | Routes 463 | Areas 141 | Photos 581 | Page Improvments | Comments 481 | Posts 337 | Stars 1187 | Ratings 203
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: TX : Reimer's Ranch
By: LeeAB When: Oct 26, 2011

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Comments: Jay, I believe that Prototype, House of Pain, Crankenstien etc. face either west or slightly NW and catch afternoon sun. Dead Cats, T-roofic, Tit for Tom face more West or SW and catch sun earlier. Sex Canyon and Cave face south though their steep nature provides shade in the summer, the Canyon probably gets sun in winter while the Cave probably does not. There are also a few routes across the canyon that face north and would not catch sun.

As far as temperatures go it has never been TOO cold f... more >>


Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Las Conchas : Leaning Tower
By: LeeAB When: Sep 19, 2011

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Comments: So when are you going to post up the route beta, W?


Location: NM : El Rito : El Rito Sport Area : Beer Block : El Beerto (5.11c)
By: LeeAB When: Sep 19, 2011

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Comments: There is now a chain draw on the last bolt to facilitate cleaning.


Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Las Conchas : Leaning Tower
By: LeeAB When: Sep 18, 2011

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Comments: These routes might be the product of Wpenner? I recall being told about a few routes down that way by him or Arron Chavez, the white mexican, and yes I believe they were all supposed to be 5.11 and 5.12


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : Echo Canyon : Bush Shark Area : ... : Photo
By: LeeAB When: Sep 8, 2011

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Comments: I remember the start of the second pitch seeming pretty difficult for 5.9 for the first 10-15 feet.


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : Chimney Canyon : Clandestine Wall : Thunderstruck (5.13a/b)
By: LeeAB When: Sep 8, 2011

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Comments: Or 5.10D's


Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Upper East Fork
By: LeeAB When: Sep 8, 2011

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Comments: That is interesting since it was not there over Labor Day weekend.

Wonder what changed their minds?


Location: TX : Reimer's Ranch : Insect Wall (including Bloc... : Block Party (5.13a)
By: LeeAB When: Sep 4, 2011

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Comments: Thanks!


Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Las Conchas : Leaning Tower : Mainliner (5.13c)
By: LeeAB When: Sep 4, 2011

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Comments: Repeated by Cody Roth, Summer 2011. Second hand quote, "5.14a, though I've done 5.14b's that are easier".


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : Chimney Canyon : Clandestine Wall : Thunderstruck (5.13a/b)
By: LeeAB When: Aug 31, 2011

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Comments: When Eric followed it was right about the same time he did Mushroom Roof in Hueco, though that had taken him a bit more effort than this took him. My memory was that he hung once and then climbed through the crux, though his memory could be correct as well. So we figured if V8 was the hardest he'd climbed that something he could do first or second try was going to be a bit easier.

I will fully admit to really having no idea how hard this was at the time and 5.12+ was kind of a grade I threw ou... more >>


Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Ponderosa Bouldering : The Satellite : Pinball Simulator Area : Left Pinball Simulator (V9-10)
By: LeeAB When: Aug 29, 2011

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Comments: Tom, differences in opinion of grade are pretty easy to trace on this one. You are a skinny bastard with stupid strong fingers, while I'm a fat a$$ with lots of finger problems and have a hard time crimping anything...I have heard others call it V8 as well, but for me it took longer than anything else I've done in Ponderosa except Mario Andretti.


Location: International : Asia : China : Guangxi Province : YangShuo : ... : Over the Moon (5.12c)
By: LeeAB When: Jul 5, 2011

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Comments: As of July 5th 2011 there was a wasp nest being built in the threader pocket just above the no hands rest on the stalactite.


Location: International : Asia : China : Guangxi Province : YangShuo : ... : Mr. Greenwood (5.12c)
By: LeeAB When: Jul 5, 2011

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Comments: This is a beautiful line with interesting and difficult movement.

It is too bad that you can reach the routes on either side of it through all but one short section in the middle. Kind of squeezed on a beautiful panel that is just slightly too small to really fit a route.


Location: International : Asia : China : Guangxi Province : YangShuo : ... : Poser's Lonely Reunion (5.10d)
By: LeeAB When: Jul 5, 2011

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Comments: Quite reachy once you leave the cave.


Location: International : Asia : China : Guangxi Province : YangShuo : ... : Rooster Booster (5.10a)
By: LeeAB When: Jul 5, 2011

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Comments: Perfectly safe with a 60m, we had a few meters left.


Location: International : Asia : China : Guangxi Province : YangShuo : Moon Hill
By: LeeAB When: Jul 5, 2011

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Comments: As of right now, the toll booth does not exist, but you will notice a large arch over the road shortly before you get to Moon Hill which will be the entrance to the "park". When this actually happens is still unknown. Turning the area into a "park" would really be depressing since the Chinese definition of "park" includes amusement rides and fee's to do everything.

Also, Yangshuo Access Initiative is a dead group at this point.


Location: International : Asia : China : Guangxi Province : YangShuo : ... : Luna Nascente (first pitch) (5.10b)
By: LeeAB When: Jul 5, 2011

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Comments: Beware the tough and awkward move to the first bolt and past it as well. Also a the third bolt is pretty far above the second which is clipped from a ledge.


Location: International : Asia : China : Guangxi Province : YangShuo : ... : Artemis (5.11a)
By: LeeAB When: Jul 5, 2011

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Comments: As of July 5th 2011, there was a good sized loose block at the little roof that is passed on the right end about half way up.

Also a wasp nest just being built slightly above the roof in a large underclinging pocket.


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : Juan Tabo Canyon : The Needle : Southwest Ridge (5.8 PG13)
By: LeeAB When: May 19, 2011

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Comments: CaseyE, the Sandias are definitely not Yosemite, but then again where else is?

Classic for length, feature and history. You will hit some bad or questionable rock on almost anything longer than a single pitch. As others have said though this can be minimized by getting on generally harder routes that climb cleaner rock. Remember that the old classics follow weaknesses in the rock while the newer routes tend to climb the best looking rock that seems climbable.

You almost have to suffer through ... more >>


Location: KY : Red River Gorge : The Motherlode : 40 OZ of Justice (5.13a)
By: LeeAB When: May 10, 2011

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Comments: If you're supposed to winch start then it does not start at the bottom of the wall so saying that it goes to the top makes it better than BOHICA just does not make sense. Though for me really it is the amount of glue on the route that detracts, don't get me wrong it is still a great route though and I would do it again.


Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Upper East Fork : Monster Wall : Mike Wazowski (of Monsters ... (5.13+)
By: LeeAB When: May 10, 2011

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Comments: Nice work Heath,
Cody Roth though snaked the second ascent using the thin crimps to the left of the bolts and did it on his second try, impressive but not unexpected from him, it was sometime in late March since I heard about it before I left for China March 30th.
For the record Cody thought the thin crimps was 5.13d, maybe hard for the grade but not quite 5.14a.
Like I said, way to put the monster to rest.


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : Juan Tabo Canyon : Shield : Knife Edge (Easy 5th)
By: LeeAB When: May 3, 2011

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Comments: The burger sounds like a good idea...to fuel for the casual walk over to the tram, that way I don't even need to carry food. Of course maybe I'm just craving american food right now.


Location: NM : Enchanted Tower : The Enchanted Tower : South/Southeast (Right) Fac... : Shipwrecked (5.12c)
By: LeeAB When: May 3, 2011

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Comments: One can actually skip BOTH mono pockets, I've seen it done by someone with an aversion to small pockets, not that I'm saying it is easier...


Location: TX : Reimer's Ranch : Sex Canyon : Super Cruiser (5.13b)
By: LeeAB When: Apr 6, 2011

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Comments: Rami, you can vote on the grade in the green box. I have also heard that it is 5.12d but it is listed as 5.13b in the guide book so that is what I listed it as, and it is harder than Bolus.


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Foothills Bouldering : Three Gun (Tres Pistolas) : Screaming Jihad
By: LeeAB When: Feb 14, 2011

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Comments: The 3 most recent comments have been moved into the New Mexico rock modification forum since they really did not pertain to Screaming Jihad in particular.


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