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 ADVANCED
Once we landed we headed to Font to find a place to stay for the night before doing a day of wine tasting and heading to Buoux.


Member Since: Aug 3, 2008
Last Visit: 14 hours ago
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Point Rank: # 26
Total Points: 10,131
Last Year: 116
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239 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has LeeAB been climbing?










Contributions


All 3393 | Routes 463 | Areas 141 | Photos 581 | Page Improvements | Comments 481 | Posts 337 | Stars 1187 | Ratings 203
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: NM : Enchanted Tower : Frog Prince : Dairy Queen (5.13b)
By: LeeAB When: Apr 10, 2012

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Comments: I had always heard this referred to as 5.13+, and now that you, DTP, are on the mend, don't you think you really should start with the sit start boulder problem to Gollum?


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : Chimney Canyon : Clandestine Wall : Thunderstruck (5.13a/b)
By: LeeAB When: Apr 10, 2012

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Comments: OK, I changed the grade.


Location: NM : Enchanted Tower : The Enchanted Tower : North (Left) Face : White Witch (5.12a)
By: LeeAB When: Apr 8, 2012

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Comments: I though the lower section of this route climbed really well. The only thing that is lacking down there is the fact that everyone goes to CHALK. If you look for the holds or if there was not a ton go chalk all over Rumpled you would never think twice. Sweet sinker 2 and 3 finger pockets lead up the lower half of this route.

Time to get it's own finish...


Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Pendergrass-Murray Recreati... : Drive-By Crag : Kaleidescope (5.13c) : Photo
By: LeeAB When: Mar 19, 2012

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Comments: I believe that is the Sharma Project.


Location: NM : Socorro Area : The Box climbing areas : Northern Box areas : North Wall : Alarm Arm (5.11+)
By: LeeAB When: Mar 17, 2012

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Comments: Today I arrived at the anchor to find the bolts with nothing else on them. I rigged a sling with a couple of biners to lower off, but the anchor could really use an upgrade. If you want to do this it would be nice to bring some chain and quick-links. Also you will probably need a knife to get the webbing off the hangers (it's tied directly to them, not the best but working with what I had in my pack at the time).


Location: TX : Palo Duro Canyon State Park : Back Country : Big Traverse Boulder
By: LeeAB When: Mar 13, 2012

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Comments: Can I ask, why? It can be made to go away or I could add an access note.


Location: TX : Hueco Tanks : East Spur : The Maze : Better Beat Your Sweeties (V7)
By: LeeAB When: Mar 10, 2012

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Comments: The crux is most definitely the first move up to the seam, not the top, there are jugs up there if you know where to go, though it is committing.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Medlicott Dome : Medlicott Dome, Right : Bachar-Yerian (5.11c X)
By: LeeAB When: Mar 2, 2012

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Comments: One thing is for sure, it will be less crowded than the gash. Wear long-sleeves and pants to combat the mosquitos. DEET is always effective too, if you are into that, in my experience the herbal stuff is worthless. Once you are on the walls the mosquitos leave you alone for the most part.

If it is really too hot in Tuolumne you can always head to Mt. Conness, Speed of Life, Third Pillar of Dana, etc.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Brownstone Wall : Armatron (5.9) : Photo
By: LeeAB When: Feb 28, 2012

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Comments: Yummy, chocolate


Location: NM : Socorro Area : The Box climbing areas : Southern Box areas : Major Wall : ... : Photo
By: LeeAB When: Feb 27, 2012

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Comments: Changed the photo, hope that is right now.

Hope the finger is healing. I think you will find the route interesting, sometimes the move feels impossible and other times completely reasonable.


Location: NM : Socorro Area : The Box climbing areas : Southern Box areas : Major Wall : The Demon (5.12d)
By: LeeAB When: Feb 26, 2012

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Comments: I had been told when I first did this route that it was 5.12d if you pre clipped the second and 5.13a if you did not. Really seems kind of silly to be splitting hairs, FWIW the 4th clip is harder than the second anyway.


Location: NM : Socorro Area : The Box climbing areas : Southern Box areas : Major Wall : Devil's Plaything (5.13b)
By: LeeAB When: Feb 26, 2012

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Comments: Really not sure of the grade on this, the nature of the climbing is hard to grade. Pretty sure it is in the .13 range but it could be anything really, from A to D, well probably not the upper end.

Would like for others to get on it and let me know what they think.


Location: NM : Truth or Consequences Area : Caballo Lake : Bat Cave Area : Left of the Bat Cave
By: LeeAB When: Feb 19, 2012

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Comments: As far as I know, there are 2 lines next to each other that were bolted by Lance H and Ian M that star from the ground near what would be the right edge of this area and a third line to the left of these two that does not reach the ground, I was bolting from the ledge down and did not reach the ground. One of the right two lines has seen some amount of cleaning while the other has not.

From the ledge, I bolted the line to the left that climbs the blunt prow and spent a fair bit of time cleaning... more >>


Location: NM : Socorro Area : The Box climbing areas : Southern Box areas : Major Wall : Juckets & Bugs (5.10a)
By: LeeAB When: Feb 19, 2012

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Comments: Currently has 6 bolts, 4 before the easy run out and 2 after.


Location: NM : Socorro Area : The Box climbing areas : Southern Box areas : Alcohol Wall : Mak Daddy (5.13d)
By: LeeAB When: Jan 30, 2012

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Comments: This route is really quite a bit longer than 35 feet, though the difficult climbing is over at about 20-25 feet, it finishes at the same anchor as Comfortably Numb.


Location: TX : Hueco Tanks : East Mountain : Belly of the Beast : Belly of the Beast (V7)
By: LeeAB When: Jan 11, 2012

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Comments: Agreed, the rock to your left is a PITA


Location: TX : Hueco Tanks : West Mountain : Crash Dummy : Crash Dummy (V7)
By: LeeAB When: Jan 11, 2012

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Comments: Really cool holds and interesting movement.

Too bad the start is so awkward to get into and the crux is not dabbing on the rock behind you.

I would agree that there are better V7's in the park.


Location: TX : Hueco Tanks : West Mountain : Crash Dummy
By: LeeAB When: Jan 11, 2012

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Comments: While there are only 3 problems listed in the guide book, there are most definitely more in the area.

I've done a 40-50 foot tall problem that was great, you can see the buttress that it is on in the overview photo in the Wilder guide. The line is under the second "m" in Dummy and yes it is big, but easy.


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : Chimney Canyon : Clandestine Wall : Cat Daddy (5.13-)
By: LeeAB When: Jan 11, 2012

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Comments: Eric, you probably could...

Realistically the crux is no harder than V6, it just comes at the end of the pitch. On top of that it is more technical than powerful.


Location: Trip Reports : Max Jones and Mark Hudon on... : Post : Photo
By: LeeAB When: Jan 10, 2012

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Comments: What is going on with your right shoulder???


Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Jemez Cave (a.k.a. Crystal ... : Soul Crusher (5.13b) : Photo
By: LeeAB When: Nov 30, 2011

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Comments: The rest on Dope is pretty obvious down below him as is the rest on Leper/Soul Crusher to his right. Not to mention the color coded quick draws...


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : The Monastery : The Vestibule : ... : Photo
By: LeeAB When: Oct 30, 2011

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Comments: Kate has to put up with the VSC...a "creation" of Fiona's (Dave Pegg's other half).


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : The Monastery : The Vestibule : Grand Ol' Opry (5.14c)
By: LeeAB When: Oct 30, 2011

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Comments: Nice one, Mark. Was Logan up there with you?


Location: NM : Socorro Area : The Box climbing areas : Southern Box areas : Major Wall : Pinche Wey (5.12c)
By: LeeAB When: Oct 27, 2011

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Comments: You mean, like 5.10d...


Location: NM : Socorro Area : The Box climbing areas : Southern Box areas : Major Wall : Pinche Wey (5.12c)
By: LeeAB When: Oct 26, 2011

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Comments: Which is of course what V7 would be closest to, though if it is v5, .12c would be better.


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