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 ADVANCED
Once we landed we headed to Font to find a place to stay for the night before doing a day of wine tasting and heading to Buoux.


Member Since: Aug 3, 2008
Last Visit: Aug 13, 2014
Contact LeeAB


Point Rank: # 25
Total Points: 10,131
Last Year: 140
Last 30 Days: 1
235 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has LeeAB been climbing?










Contributions


All 3393 | Routes 463 | Areas 141 | Photos 581 | Page Improvments | Comments 481 | Posts 337 | Stars 1187 | Ratings 203
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Las Conchas : Gateway Rock : Forest (5.10b/c)
By: LeeAB When: Aug 16, 2012

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Comments: For reference, Cody first worked Mainliner on bolts for a few day before sending it as a sport climb. He then used the bolt to figure out how to get enough and good enough gear for him, someone who climbs 3 letter grades harder, to feel comfortable leading the pitch without the use of the bolts.

So while Cody's ascent is quite impressive it still relied heavily on the use of bolts.


Location: International : Europe : Spain : Pyrenees
By: LeeAB When: Aug 15, 2012

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Comments: Jose, nobody "selects" the routes listed above. They are put there based on an algorithm that looks at the routes registered on the site and picks the most "popular, best" routes. I hope people realize that if a route is not in the database it can't show up on that list. Obviously the accuracy of that list improves with more contributions and more users opinions on the given submissions.


Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Upper East Fork : Monster Wall : Kraken (5.12)
By: LeeAB When: Jul 22, 2012

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Comments: An interesting combination of jams, face holds and laybacking. You can't just throw pro in anywhere you have certain spots that it needs to go. There are currently 2 fixed nuts at the start, one just above the roof and then next a little higher.


Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Upper East Fork : Monster Wall : Mighty Mouse (5.10d)
By: LeeAB When: Jul 22, 2012

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Comments: I second the need for a #3 camelot, I ended up with a pretty long runout on the upper half where it would have gone nicely right about in the middle of said runout.


Location: NH : Rumney : Darth Vader : Yoda (5.9) : Photo
By: LeeAB When: Jul 21, 2012

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Comments: That rock looks super cool, like tree bark or something.


Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : The Dungeon : Main Wall : Loose Cannon (5.13a)
By: LeeAB When: Jul 3, 2012

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Comments: Why not just use stainless, it is more muted, not so bright and probably is close to matching the color of the rock. The other advantage of chain is that whatever is used to attach a draw to the hanger gets chewed up and can flip (just look at the bolt end biner of any quick draw that has been well used) cutting the inside of a nylon sling leading to breaking QD (this has happened in a number of climbing gyms around the country). The edge that the sleigh runs over is what leads to the gate openi... more >>


Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : The Dungeon : Main Wall : Loose Cannon (5.13a)
By: LeeAB When: Jul 2, 2012

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Comments: After watching a kid from Santa Fe work this route last weekend I really feel that the crux bolt should be moved or have a fixed chain draw. The bolt end biner was constantly open when he was hanging and falling because of how it rubs on the rock.....Thoughs?


Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : The Dungeon : Main Wall : Moat Jump (5.12a)
By: LeeAB When: Jul 2, 2012

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Comments: If the fixed draw is going to be there it should be chain and a steal biner. A nylon sling with an aluminum biner gets dangerous as it wears.


Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : The Dungeon : 45 Boulder : Black Tar (5.12+)
By: LeeAB When: Jul 2, 2012

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Comments: I placed everything from a yellow Alien/TCU to a #1 camalot and a #3 camalot, though I think a #4 would have been better. So I would say doubles to a #1 camalot and a bigger piece. I tried to place one stopper and with the way the crack is formed it just seemed weird, maybe if you were aiding it.

I also finished on the Tendon Bender anchor as it seemed to be in a better position for rope drag and cleaning.


Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : The Dungeon : Main Wall : Moat Jump (5.12a)
By: LeeAB When: Jul 2, 2012

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Comments: Lead this on gear yesterday, the start and finish protect well, the middle, not so much.


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : La Cueva Canyon, Upper : Andy Boy Wall
By: LeeAB When: Jun 30, 2012

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Comments: True enough Karl. Pretty sure I used a 70m rope on things and had no problem lowering or rapping anything, so 100-120 feet is more realistic.


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : La Cueva Canyon, Upper : Andy Boy Wall
By: LeeAB When: Jun 28, 2012

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Comments: The Unknown 5.10d (actually listed as 5.11a in the Sandia Rock guide) has some really fun just under vertical face climbing at the top past a bolt, don't remember much about the rest of the route though. I would say it is a 3 star route.


Location: NM : El Rito : El Rito Sport Area : Rad Wall : Bolting Barbie (5.11d)
By: LeeAB When: Jun 6, 2012

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Comments: Bolting Barbie Swing



Location: NM : Cochiti Mesa & Surrounding ...
By: LeeAB When: Jun 6, 2012

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Comments: Doze, when did you try to head out there? I ask because apparently on Monday June 4th 2012 the order was signed to reopen the forest and on Tuesday, Bryan P with NM Crag called the forest service and was told that stuff was open but it would take a couple of days to get all the gates opened.


Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Las Conchas : Gateway Rock : Forest (5.10b/c)
By: LeeAB When: Jun 3, 2012

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Comments: Best route on the wall.


Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Las Conchas : Gateway Rock : Road Rage (5.11a)
By: LeeAB When: Jun 2, 2012

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Comments: No hands kneebar through the bulge.


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : Echo Canyon : Bush Shark Area : Feeding Frenzy (5.10c PG13)
By: LeeAB When: May 22, 2012

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Comments: What John says seems to jive with my memory. I think it was after I had gone down to take photos of John and Bryan on Hammerhead that we tr'd, cleaned and bolted the line. I seemed to remember Marc being involved in some way but not on that first day, just could not remember how, but what John says makes sense.


Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Upper East Fork : Monster Wall : Cyclops (5.11d)
By: LeeAB When: May 16, 2012

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Comments: OK, noted and fixed.


Location: NM : Enchanted Tower : The Land Beyond
By: LeeAB When: May 8, 2012

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Comments: J.A., I think the real issue here is not that the Tower is still undergoing updates, though it is from time to time, but more that this is the "Land Beyond". While I agree that the routes I've done there were quite good, I've been there exactly once in 1997 and have failed to make it back. Most people that go to Datil climb at the tower and the nearby walls and don't venture up to the Land Beyond so updating the equipment will likely remain low on the list of priorities for those people that do ... more >>


Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Upper East Fork : Monster Wall : Mike Wazowski (of Monsters ... (5.13+) : Photo
By: LeeAB When: May 5, 2012

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Comments: Ed chose the crimpy way...


Location: TX : Monster Rock : Dungeons and Dragons Wall &... : Photo
By: LeeAB When: Apr 29, 2012

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Comments: Yes, in sport climbing it is considered legit with pre hung draws. If you want to debate there are a few forums about the subject, fell free to flame away, Projecting and Pre-Hung gear.


Location: NM : New Mexico, other Northern ... : Rio Arriba County (Brazos, ... : Ghost Ranch : King Rudi : ... : Photo
By: LeeAB When: Apr 29, 2012

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Comments: If you read the route description, it tells you.


Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Las Conchas : Gateway Rock : General Mayhem (5.11a)
By: LeeAB When: Apr 26, 2012

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Comments: V2 would be 5.11 and V3, 5.11+. However since most people boulder harder than the climb on a rope and it is only hard at the start it might be easier for them than say 50 feet of 5.10- climbing to a V2 which would likely be 5.11/5.11+ as well.


Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Las Conchas : Leaning Tower : Mainliner (5.13c)
By: LeeAB When: Apr 15, 2012

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Comments: Jarred, when Cody first sent it on the bolts he did so placing the draws by chance since it was his first attempt of the day. Obviously on 4-12-12 when he did it on gear he was placing the gear on lead as well.


Location: NM : Enchanted Tower : The Land Beyond
By: LeeAB When: Apr 10, 2012

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Comments: But, J. Albers, the routes were probably put up in the early to mid 90's and have likely not had any love since. I know I climbed several of them in the spring of '97. Sure it would be nice if we could update everything but that takes time...


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