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 ADVANCED
Once we landed we headed to Font to find a place to stay for the night before doing a day of wine tasting and heading to Buoux.


Member Since: Aug 3, 2008
Last Visit: 3 days ago
Contact LeeAB


Point Rank: # 25
Total Points: 10,130
Last Year: 154
Last 30 Days: 0
223 Compliments
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All (3374) | Routes (463) | Areas (141) | Photos (581) | Comments (480) | Posts (336) | Stars (1171) | Ratings (202)
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : Solar Cave
By: LeeAB When: Dec 9, 2012

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Comments: DTP, I think what happened is that the book went to the published at about the same time as those two routes over there were being bolted, ILL and Sacred Stone/Tribal Moves (though neither of these names are what was given by the FA as far as I know. ILL is what I called the route on the right because of who put it up and I think Arron started calling the other one Sacred Stone or Tribal Moves or whatever, Lance bolted it and gave it to me after he found out that others were trying to steal the ... more >>


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Big Block
By: LeeAB When: Dec 5, 2012

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Comments: @ Ian, I'd always heard of the 2 short bolted climbs on the boulder referred to as 5.9, might be why they seemed a bit hard for 5.7+.


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : Echo Canyon : The Ramp Area
By: LeeAB When: Nov 27, 2012

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Comments: Honestly, with regards to the 2 bolts on the horizontal ledge and the one shinny one about head height above. The two on the ledge should be pulled and another added on the wall, you know, where an anchor should be. Not down where you will trip over the thing.


Location: TX : Reimer's Ranch : Sex Canyon : Super Cruiser (5.13b)
By: LeeAB When: Nov 24, 2012

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Comments: Footage of Mike on Super Cruiser from 2010 Limestoner.




Location: TX : Reimer's Ranch : Serpent Wall : Flakey Tigress (5.8)
By: LeeAB When: Nov 15, 2012

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Comments: Done.


Location: UT : Maple Canyon : Right Fork : The Pipe Dream : Diggler (5.13b)
By: LeeAB When: Nov 12, 2012

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Comments: Sometime in the last 2 years the jug with the birds nest has been cleaned out and blocked with glue leaving a good hold and no nest.


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : Echo Canyon : Yucca Flower Tower
By: LeeAB When: Oct 9, 2012

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Comments: Shmuck,

I believe when Charles was saying to rap climbers right from the top of the tower, he was implying that you build an anchor with gear, then use that to make another rap to the top of P1 of the YFT route, then, from there to the ground. If you read his comment it says to build an anchor to retrieve when climbing back up.

You are correct, that the anchor that is at full rope length and slightly left is the Rawhide/Squash Blossom anchor. Also, all ropes are cut differently, some companie... more >>


Location: WY : Ten Sleep Canyon : French Cattle Ranch : Sector D'or et Bleu : Sky Pilot (5.13c/d)
By: LeeAB When: Oct 8, 2012

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Comments: As you should, starting to sound like Logan?


Location: CA : Sacramento Valley/Foothills : Calaveras Dome Area : Calaveras Dome : War of the Walls (5.10c PG13)
By: LeeAB When: Oct 2, 2012

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Comments: J.A., yeah, I know that the corner on the 3rd pitch was a variation, but it looks more interesting and it seems as though quite a few plants have sprouted in the cracks leading out left to the other right angling crack that I did not want to fight with. The fact that a 60m rope reaches on those pitches is great to know, I only carried one short cordalette (maybe a 7' piece of cord) and used runners at the opposite belays since they are mostly bolted.


Location: CA : Sacramento Valley/Foothills : Calaveras Dome Area : Calaveras Dome : War of the Walls (5.10c PG13) : Photo
By: LeeAB When: Oct 2, 2012

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Comments: By the topo, you are in the middle of pitch 4.


Location: CA : Sacramento Valley/Foothills : Calaveras Dome Area : Calaveras Dome : War of the Walls (5.10c PG13)
By: LeeAB When: Oct 2, 2012

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Comments: Time for a better description.....

Rack:We carried a double set of cams from a blue TCU/Green Alien to a #2 camalot with one smaller cam and one #3 friend along with a set of stoppers including brass. 6 runners and 10 QD's. This seemed adequate though one may want more in the #.75 range for the first pitch which could then be left at that anchor to be retrieved on the way down.

Approach:Make sure that you approach up the right hand side of the to reach the shelf... more >>


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : Echo Canyon : Bush Shark Area : Big - T (5.10c)
By: LeeAB When: Oct 1, 2012

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Comments: Bob, Sorry, the sort of the routes was off, the line to the left of the second pitch is Curfew 5.12+. I've corrected the location of Curfew to reflect this.


Location: CA : Sacramento Valley/Foothills : Calaveras Dome Area : Calaveras Dome : War of the Walls (5.10c PG13)
By: LeeAB When: Sep 27, 2012

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Comments:
  • Note to self: Bring two ropes and rap, the descent SUCKS took 2.5 hours with my wife and we made it out just before dark.
  • Note to everyone else: Do the first two face pitches above the Mexican Flake, you are short changing yourself if you don't, they are great and add variety to the route....then rap.
  • We climbed the route at the end of September and found the weather to be quite pleasant. We wore light pants because of concerns about poison oak and I wore a light long sleeve fore the s...
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Location: CA : Sacramento Valley/Foothills : Putah Creek
By: LeeAB When: Sep 24, 2012

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Comments: There are 3 main boulders here. Just below the parking pullout is the Roadside Boulder, we did not climb there. As you head down the obvious trail look for the spurs that cut left into the trees. First you will pass a smaller less steep boulder with a couple of problems. The next boulder you come to is the Heavy Metal Boulder and is quite large, there is a rock shelf below the river side (steeper) of the boulder. The last boulder, the Purgatory Boulder sits right on and partially in the creek, t... more >>


Location: NM : Enchanted Tower : The Enchanted Tower : West (Center) Face
By: LeeAB When: Sep 22, 2012

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Comments: The anchor in question has been there for a long time. I believe it was put in by Chris Grijavla. The line to it was not bolted at the time. This spring I headed up and started working on that line. With the intention of starting on the Hatter and heading straight up as opposed to moving right to the Jack Daniels pit stop, hopefully yielding a more continuous line. It however still needs a fair bit of cleaning through about 15 feet and this is over the trail so cleaning needs to be done when the... more >>


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : Pinnacle Valley : WatchTower : Excalibur (5.10d)
By: LeeAB When: Sep 15, 2012

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Comments: Regarding Mick's comment about the fixed pin, I was able to wiggle it by hand, beware.


Location: NM : Enchanted Tower : The Enchanted Tower : South/Southeast (Right) Fac... : The B.F.G. (5.13)
By: LeeAB When: Sep 6, 2012

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Comments: Yeah, its a little flaky in spots above where the hard climbing ends and some of the pockets will still fill with sand and need to be cleaned out before attempting. For reference, I hung draws on Goliath for someone and brushed out the pockets when lowering down prior to sending the route, I still had the lip of a pocket higher up crumble while I was pulling on it. So, yeah, with more action it should clean up and certainly be worth 3 stars, super fun slapping on the arete above where Goliath mo... more >>


Location: NM : Taos Area : Comales Canyon : Fire Wall and Upper Tier : Fiyo (5.11+)
By: LeeAB When: Sep 5, 2012

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Comments: Matthias, if, by your comment you are referencing the YDS referring to the single hardest move on a route. That was how it was initially intended to be used but that has been out dated for many years at this point. Pretty much all routes are graded based on the cumulative difficulty to make a clean ascent. If we stuck to the YDS grade only referring to the single hardest move then both Goliath (5.13a) and BOHICA (5.13b) would also be 5.12a, food for thought.


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : Pinnacle Valley : Santa Maria : ... : Photo
By: LeeAB When: Aug 27, 2012

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Comments: Salad


Location: TX : Barton Creek Greenbelt
By: LeeAB When: Aug 27, 2012

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Comments: If a route is not in the database it can not show up in the "classics" section, so I would recommend adding the area and route. Once it is there the routes listed above are determined by some secret sauce, we don't select them. I will say that it being multi pitch will be to its benefit but also the number of votes and how many stars it ends up with are the other factors.


Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : The Dungeon : Main Wall : Loose Cannon (5.13a)
By: LeeAB When: Aug 27, 2012

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Comments: It is not that the move is a show stopper, though it is the crux, it is that when seeing people hang on the bolt the top biner rubs on the rock in a way that opens the gate.


Location: NM : Enchanted Tower
By: LeeAB When: Aug 23, 2012

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Comments: You should plan on going the other way since the request of the land owner is that it be closed between September 1st and January 30th. Even if the gate is unlocked you should still go around, remember there are people living there as well and they don't want to always have to be locking and unlocking the gate to get in and out themselves. So just because the gate is unlocked does not mean that it is open and if you go in that way and expect to get out you may find it locked on your way out.


Location: ME : Shagg Crag : Shagg It (5.12d)
By: LeeAB When: Aug 20, 2012

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Comments: Someone needs to adopt this and give it a better description.


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : Echo Canyon : Bush Shark Area : Feeding Frenzy (5.10c PG13)
By: LeeAB When: Aug 17, 2012

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Comments: Sorting through old climbing journals. It looks like John and I TR'd this route in November of '03 when John was trying for the 2nd of Hammerhead. Then the route got bolted by John, Bryan and myself at the beginning of December after Bryan and John climbed Hammerhead and I shot photos of them.


Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Las Conchas : Gateway Rock : Forest (5.10b/c)
By: LeeAB When: Aug 16, 2012

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Comments: For reference, Cody first worked Mainliner on bolts for a few day before sending it as a sport climb. He then used the bolt to figure out how to get enough and good enough gear for him, someone who climbs 3 letter grades harder, to feel comfortable leading the pitch without the use of the bolts.

So while Cody's ascent is quite impressive it still relied heavily on the use of bolts.


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