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getting to the last jug before the top out


Member Since: Jan 10, 2007
Last Visit: 3 days ago
Contact lee hansche

Point Rank: # 8
Total Points: 18,586
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has lee hansche been climbing?










Contributions


All 5591 | Routes 633 | Areas 93 | Photos 1873 | Page Improvements | Comments 1496 | Posts 152 | Stars 1273 | Ratings 71
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: NH : Rumney : The Northwest Territories
By: lee hansche When: May 15, 2015

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Comments: I agree, I have rewritten the description.


Location: NH : Cathedral Ledge : Thin Air Face : Thinner (5.8 R)
By: lee hansche When: May 10, 2015

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Comments: Thanks and yes, just left of Windfall.


Location: NH : Rumney : Pulse Wall : Tool Time (5.10d)
By: lee hansche When: May 10, 2015

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Comments: I forget my trick every time but it I climb it soon and I remember, I'll let you know


Location: NH : Cathedral Ledge : Barber Wall : The Book of Solemnity (5.10a)
By: lee hansche When: May 10, 2015

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Comments: I heard lore that the belay was put low to hide them from view since the FA party didn't have time to do the second pitch on their first push and didn't want others to get and ideas...


Location: NH : Rumney : Bonsai : The Noodle (5.12b)
By: lee hansche When: May 4, 2015

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Comments: Sent today!!!... Tricky and BURLY... The top out was filthy would be pretty fun and much easier with a cleaning...
I was happy I had a knee pad on my right leg ;)


Location: NH : Rumney : Waimea : Aquarius (5.12d)
By: lee hansche When: May 1, 2015

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Comments: could have been just a regular draw, i just remember something easy to clip... I don't mind that top out either but it would be a lot harder if i didn't utilize a hand jam ;)


Location: NH : Rumney : Waimea : Aquarius (5.12d)
By: lee hansche When: May 1, 2015

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Comments: used to be a long draw hanging that made the clip ok... could add one?


Location: NH : Rumney : The Meadows : Center Section : Hold Me aka The Move (5.13a)
By: lee hansche When: May 1, 2015

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Comments: do put it off for a while... there are so many better routes at the grade... however if you clip the last bolt as a directional its pretty safe and easy to work and clean...


Location: NH : Rumney : The Bakery : Photo
By: lee hansche When: Apr 26, 2015

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Comments: With leaves on the trees and a quiet voice I didn't feel intrusive at all but if you plan to be a jack ass go back to the jack ass zone haha...


Location: NH : Rumney : Main Cliff Right : Run Out (5.4)
By: lee hansche When: Apr 26, 2015

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Comments: updated


Location: NH : Pawtuckaway : Ridgeline : Cornered (5.7)
By: lee hansche When: Apr 16, 2015

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Comments: who is this tree terrorist? the trees below the whip were taken a while back too... Gotta get Earth First all up in here...


Location: NH : Rumney : The Hinterlands : Hinterland Highway (5.6) : Photo
By: lee hansche When: Apr 6, 2015

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Comments: Thanks mark :)


Location: NH : Rumney : 5.8 Crag : Sky Pilot (5.11b)
By: lee hansche When: Apr 2, 2015

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Comments: Rumney: if you want to climb a trad route and don't climb trad... wait a while ;P


Location: NH : Rumney : 5.8 Crag : Sky Pilot (5.11b)
By: lee hansche When: Apr 2, 2015

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Comments: updated


Location: NH : Rumney : Yellow Knife Buttress : Gifts From Attu (5.11a)
By: lee hansche When: Mar 12, 2015

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Comments: photos of Jeff and Torie's excellent adventure coming soon ;)


Location: NH : Rumney : The Prudential : Stoned Temple Pilot (5.12a)
By: lee hansche When: Mar 10, 2015

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Comments: Hanger is missing from the second bolt... I placed a cam there but what are the odds you will have one of those with you at rumney, right? Just be warned until the situation is rectified


Location: NH : Rumney : Yellow Knife Buttress : Gifts From Attu (5.11a)
By: lee hansche When: Mar 10, 2015

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Comments: I have now climbed it three times and today I watched two friends who are very solid on 5.10s climb it (both one hung it)... I have decided on an upgrade to low end 5.11... I'm a lot of things but I try not to be a sand bagger... My least favorite thing about developing routes is having to slap a grade on them so please chime in if you climb this or any other route that is new and hasn't reached a solid consensus grade


Location: NH : Rumney : Bonsai : Pretzel Logic (5.12a)
By: lee hansche When: Mar 5, 2015

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Comments: cool! glad to hear you are getting after it regardless of this relentless winter :)


Location: NH : Rumney : Main Cliff Right : Flawless Victory (5.12d)
By: lee hansche When: Mar 5, 2015

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Comments: I found things to go pretty well until the very top.

If the anchors were a little lower it would be 12a(ish) IMO...

however, as it stands there is either a ridiculously big move or a hard delicate mantle/slab to get to the anchor. I went with the slab option since that's my groove... GOOD LUCK!

(and watch out for falling ice down there this time of year!)


Location: NH : Rumney : *Rumney Bouldering
By: lee hansche When: Feb 25, 2015

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Comments: YES JEFFERY YES!

side note: I drove down to Virginia to get some warmer temps... 11 degrees is all we got >:(
times are tough...
and yes, we climbed anyway... Jay tends to LOL at me anyway...


Location: NH : Rumney : *Rumney Bouldering : The Boulders Below The Main... : Photo
By: lee hansche When: Feb 19, 2015

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Comments: good start! once its organized and developed a bit more it might get enough play to keep more of these things clean...


Location: NH : Rumney : Apocalypse Walls : Good Earth (5.12c)
By: lee hansche When: Feb 6, 2015

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Comments: haha i'll reserve judgement as to whether you are a bastard but yes, stemming rests are "off" if the grade you are hoping to climb is 5.12c. however i always say its your game and you can play it how ever you like...
though i always thought the no stemming rule made the climb a bit contrived i was pleasantly surprised by the way it climbed once i got around to doing it... It doesn't feel contrived when you stop worrying about the corner and keep focusing on the next crimp, and the next, and the... more >>


Location: NH : Rumney : Bonsai : Pretzel Logic (5.12a)
By: lee hansche When: Jan 24, 2015

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Comments: The top of the climb has a few ledges that cold collect snow and it tops out in to a groove so if there is any melting going on I don't think it would be dry. All in all I'd say, not a good winter route (or cliff) but on a cold dry day it might just work...


Location: NH : Cannon Cliff : 1. Whitney-Gilman Area : Whitney Gilman Ridge (5.7) : Photo
By: lee hansche When: Jan 10, 2015

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Comments: Thanks peter. I followed this route as my first big multi pitch (many years before i took this) and that spot (roughly) was when i fell in love with that exposed feeling... It is truly an amazing position especially for this area.


Location: NH : Rumney : Main Cliff : Simon Bar Sinister (5.12b)
By: lee hansche When: Dec 15, 2014

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Comments: I did a cool link-up in to this today, anyone else done it? "sinister-purebred-ethics". I think you can figure out how it goes... Definitely the hardest way I've done Simonbar. getting in to it from the right is hard enough then add Know ethics :) good fun!


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