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Location: NM : Taos Area : Utopian Vistas : (L5) Good Craic Wall : (35) Rock Art in the Xray S... (5.9+)
By: Larry Earley When: Oct 18, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Easy start then fun moves through crux. Added quick links to anchor.
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Location: NM : Taos Area : Utopian Vistas : (L4) Dammit Samet Wall : (30) El Caracol (5.9+)
By: Larry Earley When: Oct 18, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Crux clipping 2nd bolt. Felt a little harder than Kukulcan. Finish to anchor tricky.
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Location: NM : Taos Area : Utopian Vistas : (L4) Dammit Samet Wall : (31) Kukulcan (5.9+)
By: Larry Earley When: Oct 18, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Crux in clipping 2nd bolt. Feels like 9+.
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Location: NM : Taos Area : Utopian Vistas : (L5) Good Craic Wall : (36) Jumpstart My Karma (5.9)
By: Larry Earley When: Oct 11, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Climbed this one right after Mike put in the bolts. It should clean up after a few more people get on it. Mostly 5.8. I put in a cam in the middle (red alien) between 3rd and 4th bolt. A couple 5.9 moves.
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Location: NM : Taos Area : Utopian Vistas : (L5) Good Craic Wall : (40) Oh, Danny Boy (5.10)
By: Larry Earley When: Oct 11, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I top roped this one after Dave Barlow led it. Crux is start. Dave thought it hard to move up to 2nd bolt. The rest is good and probably 10b. I had to grab the 2nd quickdraw to make the move. Start must be 11a.
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Location: NM : Taos Area : Utopian Vistas : (L1) John Nichol's Wall : (05) Nirvana Blues (5.11a)
By: Larry Earley When: Oct 11, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Good climb. Crux at top. Most of climb is 10a.
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Location: NM : Taos Area : Utopian Vistas : (L1) John Nichol's Wall : (04) On the Mesa (5.10a)
By: Larry Earley When: Oct 11, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Fun climb. Short crux to easier climbing. Good rock.
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Location: NM : Taos Area : Utopian Vistas : (L2) Hopper's Hangover Area : (15) Tijerina (5.9)
By: Larry Earley When: Oct 11, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Nice 5.9 with sustained climbing and quality moves.
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Location: NM : Taos Area : Utopian Vistas : (L2) Hopper's Hangover Area : (13) Forever Jung (5.8)
By: Larry Earley When: Oct 11, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Dave Barlow and myself climbed this today. We both feel its a 5.9. We both put a cam (either red or yellow alien will work) in crack under roof in the middle of the climb. We liked this one. Varied moves and makes you think some.
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Location: TX : Hueco Tanks : North Mountain : Central Wall
By: Larry Earley When: Nov 5, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: North Mountain is one of the greatest climbing areas in the country for the 5.9/10b climber. The 11s look great too but I can't say first hand. Leaders should be solid at trad since bolt routes are sporty not sport climbs. I have climber over 60 days on North Mountain and loved them all. There is not really a bad climb on the wall. Now that park has restrictions its a ghost town. Most climbers boulder so you can have North Mountain to yourself. Window Pain, Sea of Holes and Indescent Exposure al... more >>
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Location: TX : Hueco Tanks : North Mountain : Central Wall : Sea of Holes (5.10 R)
By: Larry Earley When: Nov 5, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Pitch one is 9+. Put cam on ramp start and another large cam at start of steep headwall. A #3 Camalot doesn't fit great and neather does a #2. Ten feet up is bolt one. Hard clip stance. The rest of pitch is steady 5.9 climbing. Don't push your luck. A leader should be solid 10 to try this one. I saw a terrible accident in 1998. A guy fell just trying to clip bolt 2. He fell 80 feet to the ramp. Blood all over. A National Guard chopper landed and took him away. Never found out if he l... more >>
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Location: TX : Hueco Tanks : North Mountain : Central Wall : Hueco Syndrome (5.10c/d)
By: Larry Earley When: Nov 5, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: I have climbed pitch one more than ten times. 8+ is fair for pitch one. Not strenuous but requires finding all the right moves. Crux down low. Some moves are awesome. Pitch two is 10a/b since I lead it. If it were c/d I wouldn't have lead it. Two cams supplement bolts if you want. Excellent pitch. Easier than Window Pain.
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Location: TX : Hueco Tanks : North Mountain : Central Wall : All the Nasties (5.9+ PG13)
By: Larry Earley When: Nov 5, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: First pitch is a test piece of thin edge climbing. I have climbed the first pitch more than ten times but never will lead it. A little risky for me. Excellent. It takes a little route finding to keep pitch one to 5.9+. The second pitch is more 8+. One bolt up high and one right off the belay ledge. Many good trad placements but some hard to see. A 60m rope lets you finish way up on belay ledge so you can start the third pitch easier. A 50m rope means you must move belay for pitch three. The thir... more >>
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Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : Cockscomb Crag : Poultrygeist Area : (09) Poultrygeist (5.11a)
By: Larry Earley When: Oct 8, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: I knew I wouldn't make it but my friends rate it excellent.
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Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : Cockscomb Crag : Poultrygeist Area : (12) Cockeyed (5.10c)
By: Larry Earley When: Oct 8, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: I toproped this one. Typical hard 10c at Coxcomb. Excellent climbing for the good climbers. A must for solid 10 leaders.
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Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : Cockscomb Crag : Chicken Little Area : (08) Casada Noodle Soup (5.10c)
By: Larry Earley When: Oct 8, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: The rule to know about Bradshaw routes is 10a is nice and 10b/c is hard. Beware the 10c. Well bolted as are all Bradshaw routes. Rick put a lot of time and money in bolting these fine climbs. This route was hard for me. A lot of hanging.
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Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : Cockscomb Crag : Chicken Little Area : (09) Technical Fowl (5.10b)
By: Larry Earley When: Oct 8, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Directly up the bolt line is stiff 10d. The two cracks are tempting and close. I climbed it like most people by wandering. Use both cracks and you get a great 10a/b. Harder than the Egg but only a little. I did it on sight. My friends were very impressed since they didn't see me use the cracks.
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Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : Cockscomb Crag : Chicken Little Area : (10) The Chicken (5.10a)
By: Larry Earley When: Oct 8, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great 10a, well bolted.
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Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : Cockscomb Crag : Chicken Little Area : (11) The Egg (5.9)
By: Larry Earley When: Oct 8, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Nice sustained 5.9 sport climb. Well bolted. Fun moves. Do it.
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Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : The Grotto (AKA: The Notch) : Right Side of Grotto Entran... : Class Act (5.10a/b)
By: Larry Earley When: Oct 8, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Unusual climb. Not for your usual 10a sport climber. Very interesting moves. Tricky the first time. I like it, but I like basalt.
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Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : The Grotto (AKA: The Notch) : Lower Grotto : (07) Waiting to Procrastina... (5.10b)
By: Larry Earley When: Oct 8, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Excellent 10b sport climb.
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Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : The Grotto (AKA: The Notch) : Evil Paradise Area : Evil Paradise (5.10c)
By: Larry Earley When: Oct 8, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: My favorite 10 at Diablo. Varied climbing and well protected. Crux is short section 10c. Most of climb 10a/b mostly 10a. Must do climb.
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Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : Sun Devil & Winter Wall : (04) Grape Ape (5.10c)
By: Larry Earley When: Oct 8, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Excellent climb. Crux going over roof. Watch out for thin top. If you get pumped on lower part the top will get your attention if grip is weak on crimpers.
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Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : Sun Devil & Winter Wall : (06) Post Moderate (5.9)
By: Larry Earley When: Oct 8, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great climb for the grade. A full rope pitch of sustained 5.8 all the way with plenty of bolts for those that need it. A few 9 moves near top.
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Location: NM : Rio Arriba County (El Rito,... : El Rito : El Rito Sport Area : Gnar Wall & Route Canal : Crest Chewel (5.9+)
By: Larry Earley When: Oct 8, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Maybe the newest route at El Rito. Easy start like 6-7. Fun route for newer leaders. Crux is 9+ but short.
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