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Location: AZ : Mount Lemmon : The Fortress : Fisherman's Elbow (5.8+)
By: Larry When: Aug 31, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: 4 pitches, not 3. 100', 100', 100', 60'. Only the last two pitches have single bolt belays. This seems quite safe. Gear or knob tie-offs needed for third pitch.
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Location: WY : Wind River Range : Deep Lake Area : Haystack Mountain : Minor Dihedral (5.9)
By: Larry When: Jul 9, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: jayci, his name was Phil Fowler. Check the date on the FA. Charlie was just 10 years old.
And Ben Mottinger, it was Pete Croff, not Croft.
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Location: AZ : Cochise Stronghold : Rockfellow Group : Rockfellow Dome : Inner Passage (5.3)
By: Larry When: Jul 9, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The crux is finding the correct entry into the dome.
True enough.
This route is immediately left of Abra / Knead Me, between the Rockfellow Dome and Chay Desa Tsay. It is NOT in the much bigger chimey next to End Pinnacle.
You mean right of Abra/Knead Me.
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Location: AZ : Mount Lemmon : Not So Steep
By: Larry When: Jun 21, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Anchors fixed up with Mussy hooks.
Thanks to everyone who puts in the time, effort and $$$ to put up new routes for the community!
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Location: AZ : Mount Lemmon : Not So Steep
By: Larry When: May 20, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: There's also a 5.7 crack left of Naughty Party Girls. It shares its anchor.
Two of the anchors at this rock are the "cheap bastard" kind -- chains on a bolt with a washer...no hanger.
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Location: AZ : Cochise Stronghold : Sweet Rock
By: Larry When: Mar 2, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: What's the sun exposure at this rock? AM sun or PM sun?
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Location: AZ : Lookout Mountain
By: Larry When: Feb 8, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: OK, so to find the crag, we start at 16th Street and Greenway.
What town?
EDIT: I figured out that it's Phoenix.
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Location: AZ : Cochise Stronghold : Sheepshead Area (Southwest) : The Sheepshead : Unknown (right of stampede) (5.10a)
By: Larry When: Jan 28, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Hard for a 5.9.
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Location: UT : San Rafael Swell : San Rafael Swell (south) : Eastern Reef Slabs : Runout Ridge (5.7+ R)
By: Larry When: Jul 31, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Why should a person with the skills, determination and desire (or just plain craziness) to climb some rock alter that rock so that others (with only the desire) may also climb it?
Look after your safety by remaining on the ground until you are ready.
Let the Swell remain quiet.
(If it matters, I have climbed at the area in question, but not this route. I do not know brian wilson nor Paul Ross.)
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Location: AZ : Mount Lemmon : Reef of Rocks
By: Larry When: Jul 2, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: rickd, do you know where on Rapture he fell?
(BTW folks, too bad the AZ Daily Star re-used the file ID for Jim Boyer's photo...that is not a photo of him obviously.)
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Castle Valley : Castleton Tower : Photo
By: Larry When: Jul 1, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Umm, couldn't you have just started over with a new hanger?
I guess I don't see exactly what's going on here.
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Location: WY : Wind River Range : Titcomb Basin Area : Mt. Helen : Tower 1 Gully (WI3+)
By: Larry When: Jan 30, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Of course, one could continue to the summit of Mt. Helen in addition to, or instead of, Tower 1.
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Location: ID : City of Rocks : Checkered Demon : Face Shot (5.8)
By: Larry When: Jan 9, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Huh...when I put this up, it had just one bolt.
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Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Nautilus : Flying Buttress (5.10b)
By: Larry When: Oct 25, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: FA by Doug Cairns with Diana McWilliams belaying, in the '70s.
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Location: AZ : Mount Lemmon : Southpark
By: Larry When: Jul 9, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: I got out there by parking at the summit parking lot (same as for Rap Rock etc.), walking up to the observatory then down ridges all the way.
Seems like a valid alternative approach. It helped to have the coordinates of my goal on the GPS.
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Location: CO : Reports Of Possible "New Al...
By: Larry When: May 8, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: I wonder what the failure rate is for Aliens that are in the field, when they are returned to CCH for testing?
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Location: NM : Las Cruces Area Climbing : Dona Ana Mountains : Checkerboard Wall : Cross-trainer (5.7)
By: Larry When: May 8, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is a good route for training first ascensionists in how NOT to bolt.
Bolts serve not only as protection, but as way markers. So it's best not to place bolts on top of bulges where they can't be seen from below.
What's the excuse for anchor bolts without hangers (only chain held on with a wee washer and a nut)? There is a hanger on a useless, unused bolt on the summit...it should be moved to one of the lower anchors that are hangerless.
Finally, bolts should be placed at 90 degrees to the... more >>
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Location: AZ : The Mustang : Slim Jim (5.10-)
By: Larry When: Mar 17, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Where is this topo you speak of?
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Location: ID : City of Rocks : Elephant Rock : Sinsemilla (5.8 X)
By: Larry When: Jan 23, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Keep your mind open to the possibilities of slinging "horns."
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