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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Altered States Gully : A Bright Shining Lie (5.10c)
By: Landon McBrayer When: May 10, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: I found this to be harder and more sustained than the crux pitch of Fin Arete, but it is much better protected. And yes, the bolting is weird in spots. The crux comes pretty early at around the 4th bolt, but there are plenty of places above that which will make you pucker.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Altered States Gully : Sticky Fingers (5.10d)
By: Landon McBrayer When: May 10, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: I found this to be burly for a 10d. Do yourself a favor and go do warm-up laps on Tick Fever before jumping on this. At any rate, it's great fun.
Spencer's redescription of Arie's description for locating the bolt anchor is vague but correct. The rap anchor is an old angle piton and a nice bolt with some tat and a locking biner from the mid 13th century. I'd bring some new webbing and maybe a biner to freshen things up a bit. Who knows how long that webbing has been baking in the sun.
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Location: UT : San Rafael Swell : San Rafael Swell - North : Private Pizza Wall : Teeter Totter (5.10 X)
By: Landon McBrayer When: Nov 25, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Cool route. We used nuts instead of cams for the piller and bear-hugged our way up. On the way down, I was able to lever the pillar with my nut tool - that's how loose it is. The crack above is fantastic. DON'T FALL!
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Location: UT : Zion National Park : Mount Carmel Tunnel : Headache Area : The Headache (5.10+)
By: Landon McBrayer When: Oct 9, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Some quick beta:
-a #4 isn't needed. The "OW" pod on P1 is very short; a #3 BD protects above and below.
-I think that four #2's and four .75 BD cams are useful. You'll use them all.
-the second pitch doesn't end at a tree with slings (as stated). It ends at an obvious bomber bolted belay on a small ramp.
-Lots of shade.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : The Thumb Area : S-Direct (5.9+ R)
By: Landon McBrayer When: Sep 29, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: A few commets about the "description" given here.
1. all the bolts are present; most of them are new-ish.
2. All the belays have bomber rap-ready bolts.
3. Don't make a belay in one of the overlaps on pitch 3. The chains are just above the final (third) overlap.
4. Take a handful of cams (fingers to tight hands) for the overlaps on P3.
5. The route can be rappelled with a 70m, as follows: from the top of the 5.8 squeeze finish in the big roof (set of chains) to the top of P3@SEMICO... more >>
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Tanners Gulch : Specter Wall : Specter (5.11)
By: Landon McBrayer When: Sep 3, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Very nice route. Nothing to complain about other than a few strangely-placed bolts and the mega-sandbag rating on this site. Also, don't climb this with anything shorter than a 70m.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Tanners Gulch : Specter Wall
By: Landon McBrayer When: Sep 3, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: It's possible to 4th-class all the way up the corner (directly below the routes) to the pine tree. From there, the true anchor is directly right, and the view-of-the-whole-climb anchor is way out left.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Tanners Gulch : Diff'rent Strokes Buttress : Ornery Miss Garrett (5.9+)
By: Landon McBrayer When: Sep 3, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: The start has a shiny bolt before the two pins. No full rack needed. A single set to 1.5" will be fine. Lots of unnecessary bolts.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Choss Garden : Nettle (5.11)
By: Landon McBrayer When: Aug 10, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: The direct bolt line is not that much harder than heading right. The rock above the last "rap" bolt isn't *that* chossy. There is a nice set of chains w/ biners just out of site above the lip.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Albion Basin : Cecret Lake : ... : Toxic Narcotic (5.11+)
By: Landon McBrayer When: Aug 1, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: The easiest 11+ in the universe.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Dogwood Crag : A Modest Man from Mandrake (5.9)
By: Landon McBrayer When: Jul 8, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: bolt 5 still missing. Going on 7 years now?
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Location: UT : Uinta Mountains : Notch Lake : The Getaway Wall : Prisoner of My Own Subconsc... (5.10d)
By: Landon McBrayer When: Jun 27, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Contra the description, there are no bolts on this climb.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Black Peeler Buttress : South Face : Duck A L'Orange (5.8 R)
By: Landon McBrayer When: May 5, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Definitely not 'R' (at least since being retro-bolted), although a slip above the 2nd bolt would hurt.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Super Slab : Super Crack (5.10)
By: Landon McBrayer When: Sep 25, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: "Super Crack" = misnomer.
a handful of smaller cams, one #2 and one #3 BD for the hand crack, a half-dozen draws and a few long slings will do it.
About half (or more) of this climb can be done without using your hands. We simul-climbed virtually everything above the hand crack (i.e., cupped-hands or fist crack).
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Green Adjective Gully : Stormy Resurrection (5.11b)
By: Landon McBrayer When: Sep 23, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: I found the OW to be the crux; probably because I hate OW's.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Ferguson Canyon : Tower Of Babel : Fuego (5.12a)
By: Landon McBrayer When: Aug 26, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: SO GOOD.
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Location: UT : Uinta Mountains : Notch Lake
By: Landon McBrayer When: Aug 21, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: The hike is one hour each way, and very mellow.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Coal Pit Buttress : Refugees From Reality (5.12a)
By: Landon McBrayer When: Aug 17, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Good climb. The first pitch is lame, but necessary. The second pitch is good STEEP fun; a finger-size cam works well after the bolt above the big roof and before the 'funky highstep.' The third pitch offers some fine slabbing; again, a finger size cam helps protect the slight runout between the first and second bolt (easy ground).
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Coal Pit Buttress : Stifflers Stiffy (5.11b)
By: Landon McBrayer When: Aug 15, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great variation. Unfortunately, it happens to be a variation to the best pitch of Stiffler's, but, fortunately, it's a nice harder pitch with varied climbing - slab moves, balancy stuff, a lieback section, face climbing, and a thin finger crack.
I found a .75 BD and a red TCU to be handy in the middle, and micro cams up top.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Red Rock Wall : No Recess (5.10a)
By: Landon McBrayer When: Aug 10, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: At this point, this route is still a choss-pile; I pulled something off (up to basketball size) about every other bolt or so. On the other hand, it's nice to have a 'sport' route of this length with a bunch of mini-roofs; it serves as a warm up to Black Streak.
Also, it's easy to rap with a singe 70 to the anchors atop Baked Bean Sandwich.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : JHCOB Wall : Weed B Gone (5.11c/d)
By: Landon McBrayer When: Aug 8, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: fyi-The top rap left us about 6 feet short of the next set of anchors with a 60m.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Hellgate Cliffs : East Hellgate : ... : Winking Owl (5.10d)
By: Landon McBrayer When: Jul 22, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Pretty nice climbing on surprisingly solid rock given the location. The grade felt about right to me - also surprising given the location.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Hellgate Cliffs : East Hellgate : ... : Devil's Advocate (5.10a)
By: Landon McBrayer When: Jul 19, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: five.eight-
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Coal Pit Buttress : DoggyStyle (5.10+)
By: Landon McBrayer When: Jul 7, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Hands-down the worst route on the buttress. Choss galore.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Pentapitch Area : Nubbins to Nowhere (5.10+)
By: Landon McBrayer When: Jul 6, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Very cool climb. Finger crack to slab to lieback corner. Also, the easiest 10d I've ever climbed.
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