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Member Since: Jun 22, 2010
Last Visit: 1 day ago
Contact Landon McBrayer


Point Rank: # 1,555
Total Points: 365
Last Year: 55
Last 30 Days: 3
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Areas are worth 15
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All (778) | Routes (22) | Areas (1) | Photos (11) | Comments (75) | Posts (10) | Stars (567) | Ratings (92)
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: UT : San Rafael Swell : San Rafael Swell - North : Lower Buckhorn Wash : Jamison Engineering (5.10c)
By: Landon McBrayer When: Apr 7, 2014

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Comments: Well worth the (short) walk. The "wide" flake is not too hard, and it protects with # 3 camalots and a #4 up high if you're lucky. From the top of the flake, its thin hands (occasional pod for #2-3 camalots) to the corner/slab, which then takes .4-.75 camalot sizes. I liked this route because of the variety: cups/fists, tight hands/ring locks with pods, and fingery layback to finish. Fantastico! At any rate, it's a real stretch to call this a "handcrack" as the description... more >>


Location: UT : San Rafael Swell : San Rafael Swell - North : Scenic Byway Wall : Lonesome Scenery (5.12a)
By: Landon McBrayer When: Apr 7, 2014

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Comments: The route is easy to find because of the bolt. It's a great route. The bolt protects the opening crux moves, which involve finding your way up a 00 tips crack. From then on, it's fingers all the way (purple metolious - yellow), with the occasional larger pod. The top 25-30 feet is fantastic fingers with lots of varnished edges for crimps and feet.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Waterfront, The : Head On (5.10b)
By: Landon McBrayer When: Mar 26, 2014

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Comments: A few comments -

The roof: You can get a nice #1 Camalot at the bottom. If you would like to be really secure for the tougher moves, a #4 Camalot fits nicely up high.

The "headwall": The description here makes it seem as if you'll need to run it out to get to the bolt, but you don't. The protection is great in the #1-ish sized crack that you follow to the bolt.

As stated, if you do this as one long pitch, use runners liberally, especially down low.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Gate Buttress : East Gate Buttress : Sidewinder (5.12+)
By: Landon McBrayer When: Nov 9, 2013

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Comments: BURLY. There are two bolts at the start and 3 pins in the crack. You'll need a handful of micro cams to supplement the fixed gear, e.g., 4-5 purple to blue metolius. Nothing bigger is needed (see next sentence). You could use a #3 camalot after the last pin, but the climbing is 5.8 and not that runout. Good luck!


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : The Egg : Lowe Blow (5.9+)
By: Landon McBrayer When: Oct 26, 2013

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Comments: Regarding whether one should haul up big gear: .75-#3 camalots protect just fine for much of the route (I took 2 of each; used them all). A few smaller pieces are nice. I also took a #4 and a #5 camalot, and I was glad I had them. They are useful to bump up as you climb for added security, but they are by no means necessary to climb the route safely.

We did it in one pitch, which I recommend. Also, don't fall from the first 15' of pitch two - insecure flared cra... more >>


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Rock Canyon : Black Rose : Black Magic Woman (5.11b)
By: Landon McBrayer When: Oct 18, 2013

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Comments: A true two-move wonder. Easy 5.10 climbing with two stiff moves at the third bolt.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Rock Canyon : Ed and Terry Wall : Edge of Knight (5.10)
By: Landon McBrayer When: Oct 18, 2013

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Comments: Well spaced bolts. Take a single set of cams tips-#1 camalot, and small-med nuts. Our 70m barely reached.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Rock Canyon : Green Monster Slab : Green Monster (5.9)
By: Landon McBrayer When: Oct 18, 2013

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Comments: If you, like most climbers now, don't carry a full set of hexes, you'll probably want doubles 1-4 camalot. It can be done with a singe #4 if you walk it up the first long section of 4 size, place a good #3, and leapfrog the #4 to the upper section of 4 size. Cool easier cups/fists crack. 5.8.


Location: UT : Zion National Park : Kolob Canyon : South Fork : Namaste (5.12a)
By: Landon McBrayer When: Oct 16, 2013

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Comments: We used a 70m and had plenty to spare after lowering.


Location: UT : Zion National Park : Temple of Sinawava : Monkeyfinger (5.12)
By: Landon McBrayer When: Oct 16, 2013

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Comments: What an amazing route! Here is my pitch by pitch breakdown:

P1: crappy slab/traversing pitch to get to the bottom of the Pillar of Faith. This pitch would be awesome if a bolted direct line was put up. As is, it pretty much sucks.

P2. The Pillar of Faith. As others have noted, start up the left side and switch to the right side at the obvious foot jug. You can't miss it. From there, it's tight fingers to hands to a short bit of OW which you can layback to the belay. A #4 or 5 BD i... more >>


Location: UT : Zion National Park : The Confluence : Smashmouth (5.11a)
By: Landon McBrayer When: Oct 16, 2013

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Comments: Spencer's beta is right on, as always. The goods are .4-.5 BD or yellow/orange metolii (didn't know that was plural; thanks Phil). So, bring lots of those sizes, and a single set of other cams (except 2 #1 camalots for the start). Leave the nuts at home.

Each pitch is VERY short. Pitch 1 and 2 can be combined if you're creative at managing drag, otherwise do them as two pitches. Pitches two and three can be combined, but what's the point since the top of pitch 3 is a full... more >>


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : The Thumb Area : Coyne Crack (5.11d)
By: Landon McBrayer When: Oct 8, 2013

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Comments: What a great, short route. I recommend belaying at the lower set of scrub oaks (in Spencer's "looking down at crux" picture, you can see them about 30 ft down from the upper belay). The traditional upper belay anchor is a nasty scrub oak hanging stance from old tat, and the oak is about 80% dead. Belaying from the lower set of bushes is much better for the belayer (comfy), the bushes are more robust, there is no rope drag produced by belaying there, and your leader gets a softer catch when th... more >>


Location: UT : San Rafael Swell : San Rafael Swell - North : Mexican Mountain Road Area : Dylan Wall : Idiot Wind (5.11c)
By: Landon McBrayer When: Oct 6, 2013

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Comments: Didn't feel 11c. There are some hard moves on the route, but no more than three in a row before you get to a hero hold or nice rest (lots of rests!). #1-#2 camalots (1), #3 camalot (2), bunch of TCUs purple-yellow.


Location: UT : San Rafael Swell : San Rafael Swell - North : Mexican Mountain Road Area : Dylan Wall : Bob Can't Climb (5.10)
By: Landon McBrayer When: Oct 6, 2013

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Comments: Hands to wide hands? More like fingers all the way up to chimney and back to fingers. A #5 protects the OW/chimney nicely. The redeeming feature of this route is the long fingers slot at the top (not visible from below). Other than that, it's a bust.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Wheeler-Newsome Wall : Wing Nut (5.11c) : Photo
By: Landon McBrayer When: Oct 2, 2013

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Comments: I don't think this flexy flake is there anymore. I certainly don't remember anything like it near that spot, and I did a few laps.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Wheeler-Newsome Wall : Wing Nut (5.11c)
By: Landon McBrayer When: Oct 2, 2013

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Comments: Indeed, burly indeed. The start is a bit unnerving as you make your way to the roof. No pro, not super easy climbing, and a really bad landing. Once you make it around the roof to the crack proper, the real business is the first 15 feet or so of steep climbing. Above that, a decent rest can be had, and expect hard 5.10 from there to the chains. Mostly fingery TCU sizes and a few bigger cams to 3". Med-large nuts would work really well on this route, as there are lots of perfectly-oriented ... more >>


Location: UT : San Rafael Swell : San Rafael Swell - North : Lower Buckhorn Wash : Short Stack (5.10d)
By: Landon McBrayer When: Sep 29, 2013

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Comments: BURLY! The starting chimney is pretty straightforward if you're facing the right way. Take great care to protect the large roof exit from the chimney to the hands section. If you don't, the crack in that roof will eat your cams. Great finish!


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Ferguson Canyon : The Watchtower : Watchtower Main : Fishlips (5.11d)
By: Landon McBrayer When: Sep 5, 2013

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Comments: Fantastic climb. I like the variety - jugs at the start, crimps and arete-slapping through the bolts, easy weird fergy climbing to the chains.

I used a blue metolius below the first bolt (no extension needed), a red mastercam (green BD) above the second bolt, and a #1 BD above that. Not sure where gear could go above that, but the climbing is easy. Very well protected.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Strone Crag : Red Gorilla (5.12a)
By: Landon McBrayer When: Aug 30, 2013

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Comments: Nice moves with the crux coming around bolt 2. Strange bolt placements. If you whip above bolt 2, you'll swing big; if you whip above bolt 4, you'll break your ankles on that big ledge. Otherwise, go for it!


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Strone Crag : Creaking Plank (5.9)
By: Landon McBrayer When: Aug 30, 2013

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Comments: Fun climbing. Needs a belay bolt. Weird finish. Awful belay "ledge" up top.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Strone Crag : Major Tom (5.10c)
By: Landon McBrayer When: Aug 30, 2013

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Comments: This route has some cool arete climbing. That said, here are some concerns:
-Belaying from the tree/ledge belay for WoN/Le Rap seems like a REALLY bad idea (even though I did it, regretfully). You have 40 feet of actual climbing (5.5 ish) to clip the first bolt; if you fell you would be seriously injured or die. Worse, the arete from bolts 1-3 is RAZOR sharp, and given the placement of the bolts (on the other side of the arete), your rope will likely run over it as some point. If y... more >>


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Tanners Gulch : Booty Wall Area : White Lines (5.12d)
By: Landon McBrayer When: Aug 16, 2013

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Comments: Burly. A pump from the word go with nary a rest along the way. Good gear - we used BD .4 - #1 sized pieces, doubles are nice. I advise clipping the (2nd?) bolt just before the first roof (ignoring the fact the the whole pitch is a roof) with a 24" sling. This will allow the rope to run free over said roof without getting jammed in the crack. The crux (for me) was the last 10 feet before the chains.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Hellgate Cliffs : Tower One : Shelter from the Storm (5.12a)
By: Landon McBrayer When: Aug 15, 2013

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Comments: Oddly, i guess, I found the technical crux to be right at the first bolt - the moves getting established in the crack. Easy gear there. The second bolt "crux" seemed pretty straightforward, and the tough climbing ends quickly. The rest of the route is super juggy and steep, but with lots of rests interspersed between well-spaced bolts. The finish is wild! One of the best routes at the towers, for sure.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Hellgate Cliffs : Tower Two : Radiation Babies (5.10c)
By: Landon McBrayer When: Aug 10, 2013

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Comments: I thought this climb was much better than both Social Realism and The Big chill. Pretty easy much of the way, with a few tricky spots worked in.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Tanners Gulch : Booty Wall Area : Pirate Treasure (5.11)
By: Landon McBrayer When: Aug 10, 2013

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Comments: As others mentioned, If you're around 6' or have a decent ape index you can reach all the way to the jug from the hand jam, thus skipping the sloper. In other words, the difficulty of this climb is very much height dependent. Also, the route does not start at the top of the hill (as stated in the description). It starts 20-30 down from the top. The rust colored streak is the easiest marker.


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