Point Rank: # 2,320
Total Points: 61
Last Year: 0
Last 30 Days: 0
How do you get points?
| Areas are worth 15 |
| Routes are worth 10 |
| Photos are worth 5 |
| Comments are worth 1 |
Where has Lance Bischoff been climbing?
| |
Contributions
| All (27) | Routes (3) | Areas | Photos (4) | Comments (11) | Posts | Stars (6) | Ratings (3) | | Page 1 of 2. 1 2 Next> |
Contributed Routes |
| Name |
Rating |
Type |
Location |
Useful To |
Date |
Shangrila (FA) | 5.6 | Trad, 2 pitches, 140 feet | CO : Colorado Springs : ... : Kindergarten Rock | | Oct 3, 2003 |
Inner Sanctum | 5.6 | Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 70 feet | CO : Colorado Springs : ... : Kindergarten Rock | | Oct 3, 2003 |
Jolly Jugular | 5.6 | Trad, 2 pitches, 160 feet | CO : South Platte : ... : Pine Cone Dome | | Jul 5, 2003 |
Contributed Comments | | |
|---|
Location: CO : South Platte : Elevenmile Canyon : Pine Cone Dome : Jolly Jugular (5.6)
By: Lance Bischoff When: Apr 23, 2007 | view comment >> | Comments: Thanks, Bob, for the update. Geezamaneeza folks! A moderate, even non-expensive rack, can protect this route. In fact, it is an excellent route to practice placing pro - cams, chocks, nuts, tri-cams, runners - you name it. So, thank you to the bolt remover, whoever you are...there is no need to bolt up a route with generous placement opportunities. I spotted this route specifically as a TRAD project...it is, and should remain that way. Thanks again, enjoy!
|
Location: CO : South Platte : Elevenmile Canyon : Camp Rock : Log Jam (5.7)
By: Lance Bischoff When: Oct 17, 2003 | view comment >> | Comments: The route description above sounds to me like "Cave Crack" (D'Antonio guide book Classic Rock Climbs 03), a 5.6 route that becomes chimney work in at least two areas. I think it feels 5.6, adjacent route options (crack and face climbing) can be 5.7 or up.I'm confused...which is which?
|
Location: CO : South Platte : Elevenmile Canyon : Arch Rock : The Staircase (5.5)
By: Lance Bischoff When: Oct 13, 2003 | view comment >> | Comments: Clarification: the "crux" section is just above large alcove at top of first pitch (across traverse from top of 5.10 and 5.8 bolted routes/anchors) and just below the actual stairs on second pitch. There is a quite vertical section which if sequenced properly can yield 5.5 moves, otherwise it ends up being 5.6. The OW crack up higher (5.8) above stairs marks a left escape to a ledge and various solutions to the summit. There is yet another crack higher (but easier) that also could justify 5.6... more >>
|
Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Garden of the Gods : Montezuma Tower : North Ridge (5.7)
By: Lance Bischoff When: Oct 12, 2003 | view comment >> | Comments: There are new = recent chopped steps up this fine route. Sections requiring smear moves just weeks ago now have a sequence of steps that are not the ancient/military ones referred to. I am disappointed to see this happen on the route, which I did with a party again today. Why is this happening?? Also, note that the left block on bottom is indeed loose, right start on right block is solid, and there is an overkill (probably about twelve) of chopped steps to access the leveraged move that are ... more >>
|
Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Garden of the Gods : Three Graces : The Window (5.2)
By: Lance Bischoff When: Oct 4, 2003 | view comment >> | Comments: Best thing to know, besides other comments already mentioned, is the actual "quality" of the rock. The traverse is not technically difficult, but I found a LOT of loose stuff on both hands and feet, many times flaking off during the moves. This makes for a non-smiling traverse without the pro. Not a bomb route, but no 3-star IMHO. The "closure" issue may relate to Garden-wide policy of off-limits to scramblers more than 10 feet off deck. This formation gets lots of violating scramblers who ... more >>
|
Location: CO : South Platte : Elevenmile Canyon : Elevenmile Dome : Stone Groove (5.6)
By: Lance Bischoff When: Sep 14, 2003 | view comment >> | Comments: The small pro on standard rack is not going to do much for you, this route is all crack with mostly moderate to large pro opportunities. You could even use some small Bros if you have them, or large cams. Reaching deeper into crack seems only option to place midsize pro, otherwise you'll want BIG stuff or runout.
|
Location: CO : South Platte : Elevenmile Canyon : Elevenmile Dome : Happy Trails (5.6)
By: Lance Bischoff When: Sep 14, 2003 | view comment >> | Comments: The route has 4 bolts, not six. Runout section atop to anchors may make new lead climbers quesy, there are some flakes near steep section, though, for small stoppers before the runout. It is a 5.6, IMHO, and low angle enough to keep most feeling okay. Nice route for sport intro. I wonder, Dave, if you were on Jet Setter instead?
|
Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Garden of the Gods : Kindergarten Rock : South Side Topropes (5.6)
By: Lance Bischoff When: Sep 14, 2003 | view comment >> | Comments: Six sets of anchors as mentioned on front page for "Kindergarten Rock." Also, depending on the line chosen, or slinging a big arete, difficulty can easily exceed 5.8, up to 5.10 on some steep face moves in red streaked (smooth and near vertical) areas.Also agree with disappointment about people belaying and lowering directly through the bolts and would encourage us to politely speak up about this to preserve wear on the bolts. The route far left on photo is a great lead training route and has ... more >>
|
Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Garden of the Gods : Kindergarten Rock
By: Lance Bischoff When: Sep 14, 2003 | view comment >> | Comments: On the photo, add two other anchors - both to the right of the last blue line on right. One set is just under the bulge and slightly down from the bulge peak. The other set is for rainy/slippery descents of the ramp or rappel training. The two hangers there are on the flatter dish area on the top of the approach ramp. Also, I got to agree - calling this magnificent formation, in total, Kindergarten Rock is ridiculous. East and West Face climbs of moderate to high difficulty deserve to be at... more >>
|
Location: CO : South Platte : Elevenmile Canyon : Pine Cone Dome : Roof By-Pass (5.7)
By: Lance Bischoff When: Sep 5, 2003 | view comment >> | Comments: I totally agree with Amy. Did this route today as a second for a new lead climber - he was stressed - it is NOT a 5.6 or I'll take up bowling! Also agree it is quite sustained solid 5.7, the 5.6 moves are perhaps fewer than the 7's. Protection is ok, some placements are harder due to the shade/lichen/moss in the main crack, but all in all reasonable. I think a few of the Eleven Mile routes were rated by people who forgot what it felt like to be a beginner/moderate new leader. This is defini... more >>
|
Location: CO : South Platte : Elevenmile Canyon : Arch Rock : The Staircase (5.5)
By: Lance Bischoff When: Jul 16, 2002 | view comment >> | Comments: I would just submit that "spicy" moves for beginners does not justify automatically retaining a 5.5 rating. Seems I recall that a climb is rated for the hardest moves, and others who have led this route agree there may be merit to a 5.6 (two moves or so) below the exit ramp near the top. The flared crack included in route topos at top is not a 5.5 - most parties exit left (before this crack)on a small babycrawl ledge to avoid the flare moves (5.8?), traversing to scramble rocks up to last bela... more >>
|
| | Page 1 of 2. 1 2 Next> |
|
RSS Feed
