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Mr. P. Marten


Member Since: Oct 24, 2006
Last Visit: 2 days ago
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Point Rank: # 159
Total Points: 2,984
Last Year: 1,513
Last 30 Days: 4
16 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 908 | Routes 124 | Areas 16 | Photos 281 | Page Improvments | Comments 99 | Posts 22 | Stars 349 | Ratings 17
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: NY : The Gunks : The Near Trapps : a. Beginning of cliff to Ge... : Baskerville Terrace (5.7 PG13)
By: Kurtz When: 2 days ago

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Comments: IMHO the P1 crux (Photo) was pretty darn stiff for 5.7. Fell on a gold BD nut (it's still there). Was glad I took the time to place it well. Second attempt I went up on the right side which seemed easier.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Near Trapps : b. Gelsa to Moe (closure) : Shitface (5.10b/c R)
By: Kurtz When: Jun 30, 2014

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Comments: Beware of Poison Ivy patch in the rocks near the start.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Near Trapps : b. Gelsa to Moe (closure) : Roseland (5.9)
By: Kurtz When: Jun 30, 2014

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Comments: Beware of Poison Ivy patch in the rocks near the start.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : g. V3 - Middle Earth : Snake (5.7 PG13)
By: Kurtz When: Jun 23, 2014

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Comments: Agree with all prev. comments. P2 is pretty stiff for the grade; lots of crumbly lichen, moss, dirt, sod, dead branches. A bit of cleaning with your nut tool will expose some usable cracks. There is a rapp station on a tree 10 ft. left of the top.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : b. Jackie and friends : Jane (5.7+) : Photo
By: Kurtz When: Jun 15, 2014

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Comments: MP says the left crack; Grey Dick says the right.
I say screw 'em both!
Pick the crack you like!


-The Bard


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : d. Strictly - Shockley's : Gorilla My Dreams (5.7)
By: Kurtz When: Jun 15, 2014

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Comments: I believe GMD's corner is precisely at the end of the Calisthenic roof (not the other right-facing corner 20 ft further right). The Grey Dick mentions a crack starting 5 ft off the ground, but we couldn't find it. P1 as described here is very short (35 ft?).

Linking P1 & P2 worked well. About 180 ft. total. Bring lots of gear and some long slings. There is no one correct path up the face, just look for gear and aim for the laurel bush. The blocky corner can be wet but the holds are good. A... more >>


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : b. Jackie and friends : Jane (5.7+)
By: Kurtz When: Jun 15, 2014

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Comments: I've finished both ways and it's much better IMHO to go to the 2nd tree. The moves on the on the upper face are thin and exciting. Too bad the route isn't longer.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : b. Jackie and friends : The Blackout (5.9-)
By: Kurtz When: Jun 15, 2014

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Comments: The description seems to indicate that you go right around the both roofs on P2. Is this correct? I found it seriously sketchy on the right side of the first one. Tough moves and no pro. I backtracked and went around the left side. Then hand traversed under the second roof to its right side. This Photo mentions the hand traverse and you can see the first overhang beneath her.

The Grey Dick seems a bit muddled too.


Location: CT : Northwest : Whitestone Cliff : Lower Cliff
By: Kurtz When: Jun 10, 2014

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Comments: I added this area for completeness but have never climbed there. Nor can I find any beta. If anyone knows more, please start typing.


Location: CT : Central CT : Ragged Mountain : Main Cliff : Left Edge (5.6 PG13)
By: Kurtz When: Jun 2, 2014

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Comments: The first piece is a bit high. Sling the large hemlock if this bothers you.


Location: CT : Central CT : Ragged Mountain : Main Cliff : Broadway (5.8)
By: Kurtz When: Jun 1, 2014

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Comments: There's plenty o' pro on the bottom of this route. Look at this Photo. Eleven pieces BELOW the block. Granted they're mostly small nuts and cams, but all good.


Location: CT : Central CT : Cathole Mountain : Acid Reign (5.6 X) : Photo
By: Kurtz When: May 30, 2014

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Comments: Needed 150 ft of static to reach big trees.


Location: CT : Central CT : Cathole Mountain : Acid Reign (5.6 X)
By: Kurtz When: May 30, 2014

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Comments: I'm not sure I've got the correct name on this route. Hooked on Traprock calls it "a bad trip" but we found this route to be fun and challenging on TR. There aren't many good TRs for intermediate climbers at Cathole.


Location: CT : Central CT : Cathole Mountain : Fool's Mate (5.9) : Photo
By: Kurtz When: May 30, 2014

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Comments: The twin trees at lower right are about 3" in diameter.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : d. Strictly - Shockley's : Anguish (5.8 PG13)
By: Kurtz When: May 28, 2014

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Comments: Could not find P3. We hit the GT about 30 ft right of the Glypnod corner. The roof above us (left and right) was way harder than 5.8. Another party looked too. Finally, we finished on Glypnod and they took a line about 30 ft to the right which they said was about 5.10a. Can anyone provide more info?


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : d. Strictly - Shockley's : Gaston (5.8- PG13)
By: Kurtz When: May 27, 2014

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Comments: The first piece is quite high, pay attention.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : c. Frog's Head - the Arch : Wrist (5.6)
By: Kurtz When: May 27, 2014

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Comments: Thanks, Seth. The chains are easy to miss. You have to walk down toward the edge a bit. A single 60m gets you down.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : c. Frog's Head - the Arch : Maria (5.6)
By: Kurtz When: May 27, 2014

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Comments: A wise, old Gunks climber told me, "Traverse on P1 with your hands in the shrubbery" (the horizontal with the most plant life).


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : c. Frog's Head - the Arch : Scungilli (5.7 PG13)
By: Kurtz When: May 26, 2014

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Comments: Not recommended for beginning 5.7 climbers. Tricky to protect leader and second on P1 traverse. Watch rope drag.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Near Trapps : a. Beginning of cliff to Ge... : Broken Sling (5.8+ PG13)
By: Kurtz When: May 13, 2014

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Comments: Whew! Toughest Gunks 5.8 so far. IMHO the description of P2 above is a bit thin. Based on the Grey Dick and personal experience...

Thanks for expounding! I moved your description of P2 up to the route --JSH

The P2 traverses are the scary part. Minimal pro, small holds, tricky to protect, double ropes recommended.


Location: CT : Central CT : Cathole Mountain : Friday the Thirteenth (5.11)
By: Kurtz When: Apr 25, 2014

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Comments: I haven't climbed this route but included it so folks would know where it is. Let me know of any corrections and I'll update it.


Location: CT : Central CT : Cathole Mountain : Fool's Mate (5.9)
By: Kurtz When: Apr 25, 2014

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Comments: I don't think this route gets the attention it deserves. Much better than Mind Bender Direct IMHO.


Location: CT : Central CT : Pinnacle Mountain
By: Kurtz When: Apr 19, 2014

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Comments: Found Climbing Shoes at Pinnacle (Right Wing Wall) on April 17. Also a hat. Identify and reclaim!


Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Whiskey Peak : Frogland (5.8)
By: Kurtz When: Apr 14, 2014

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Comments: Beware the varmints at the base of Bourbon St./Frogland! They will shred your pack for any food items. They got three of our packs!.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Whiskey Peak : Bourbon Street (5.8+)
By: Kurtz When: Apr 14, 2014

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Comments: Beware the varmints at the base of Bourbon St./Frogland! They will shred your pack for any food items. They got three of our packs!.


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