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Mr. P. Marten


Member Since: Oct 24, 2006
Last Visit: 10 hours ago
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Point Rank: # 125
Total Points: 3,681
Last Year: 1,428
Last 30 Days: 45
31 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 1074 | Routes 137 | Areas 27 | Photos 353 | Page Improvements 7 | Comments 120 | Posts 22 | Stars 388 | Ratings 20
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CT : Central Valley : Rattlesnake Mountain : Rattlesnake Cliff
By: Kurtz When: Mar 19, 2015

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Comments: Approaching from Forest Hills Dr. is not very good these days. The power line right-of-way is heavily overgrown and flanked by new houses. You can approach from the cul-de-sac to Green Wall and then continue south on the Metacomet Trail but this route can be hard to find your first time. Following the Metacomet Trail from Rt. 6 or Pinnacle is the safest bet.


Location: NY : Catskills (Ice) : Kaaterskill Clove : The Ravines : Buttermilk Falls (WI3-4)
By: Kurtz When: Mar 17, 2015

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Comments: Per my GPS, the approach is just over 3/4 mile. It took us 45 mins. Everyone seems to use a different variation of the trail except where it takes a right up the ravine. Pretty hard to go too far wrong.

To clarify the comment above. The logging road is old and faint, but is the obvious place to walk. It parallels the stream about 35 yds. uphill.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Adirondack Ice Climbing : Gothics : North Face (WI2 Easy Snow PG13)
By: Kurtz When: Mar 9, 2015

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Comments: On 3/7/15 we climbed the left side of the North Face of Gothics. At the bottom of the bowl, the snow is crusted with deep, very low-friction snow underneath. I have no special avalanche expertise but it worried me enough to skirt around on safer terrain. Luckily, the snow quickly gives way to thin ice, exposed rock, and just enough neve so one can climb to the top without any particular difficulty. Protection is limit to slinging trees so we soloed. Hiking and ski trails are in good shape a... more >>


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Adirondack Ice Climbing : Cascade Pass : Pitchoff Left (WI4)
By: Kurtz When: Mar 9, 2015

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Comments: Great for groups (short approach, decent "standing around" area, moderate ice, short climbs, easy to set top ropes, gets some sun, often sheltered from the wind). Best to put on crampons at the road, approach is usually on ice.

While rated WI4-, it usually feels easier because it sees a lot of traffic and it gets chopped out.


Location: NH : *NH Ice and Alpine Climbing : Mt. Willard : South Face - Lower : Gully 1 (WI4)
By: Kurtz When: Jan 28, 2015

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Comments: There is a low-angle ramp (WI 1-2) just to the left that can be used to ascend/descend/bypass.

We found it safer to belay on the right side. Ice falling from the top tends to ricochet unpredictably to the left.


Location: NH : *NH Ice and Alpine Climbing : Mt. Willard : South Face - Upper : Cauliflower Gully (WI2-3) : Photo
By: Kurtz When: Jan 27, 2015

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Comments: Green shows the easiest approach.
Blue is Gully 1
Orange is Gully 2
Purple is Great Madness


Location: NH : *NH Ice and Alpine Climbing : Mt. Willard : South Face - Lower : Gully 1 (WI4) : Photo
By: Kurtz When: Jan 27, 2015

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Comments: Red = hiking (sometimes steep)
Green = Gully 1
Yellow - WI1-2 ascent/descent gully
Blue = Cauliflower Gully
It's about a 45 min. hike from the summit of Willard down to the train depot near the Highland Center.


Location: General Climbing : Building a home Hand/Finger... : Post : Photo
By: Kurtz When: Nov 15, 2014

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Comments: Wow! How was this monster constructed? Was it worth the effort?


Location: CT : Western Highlands : St. John's Ledges : Upper Ledges : Class 4 Scramble (4th R)
By: Kurtz When: Nov 6, 2014

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Comments: Climbed this (unroped) a couple of times to access the top. To be conservative, consider it lower 4th class, but be aware that a fall would have serious consequences. Wetness, leaves and debris can make it slippery. Not for newbies or the faint of heart.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : h. The Arrow Wall - CCK : Moby Dick (5.8)
By: Kurtz When: Nov 5, 2014

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Comments: The P2 Andrew "gulley" is often wet. The holds on either side are pretty good so you can usually step across (L->R) avoiding the wet stuff. The rock above stays dry (where you cross back R->L).


Location: CT : Central Valley : East Peak : Merimere Face : Thor's Hammer (5.9)
By: Kurtz When: Oct 27, 2014

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Comments: Cleaned up the bird poop and a lot of the poison ivy at the base. Should be in great condition until next Spring.


Location: CT : Western Highlands : Whitestone Cliff : The Slab : Going Vertical (5.5) : Photo
By: Kurtz When: Oct 16, 2014

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Comments: I've updated the topo.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : a. The Uberfall : Easy Keyhole (5.2)
By: Kurtz When: Oct 13, 2014

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Comments: I'm 99% sure we climbed Easy Keyhole but the beta doesn't quite line up with what we experienced. I climbed all the way up to the top of a pedestal with a massive boulder perched upon it (like a golf ball on a tee). Building an anchor was the crux of the climb. There was some very old webbing under the boulder that would have been very awkward to use. To create an anchor I had to downclimb the backside (sketchy) and climb up the main wall a ways to build a gear anchor. Then climb back to th... more >>


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : a. The Uberfall : Fancy Idiot (5.6)
By: Kurtz When: Oct 8, 2014

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Comments: Sorry, guys. I liked it (but I'm not very picky). Great route name. You have to walk off if you do P2.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : a. The Uberfall : Eyesore (5.6)
By: Kurtz When: Oct 8, 2014

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Comments: The Radcliffe Walk-off is a lot of fun. No harder than the Uberfall.

Spoiler Alert: There's a big inset block about 2/3 of the way up (just above a pin) that is loose. I don't think it will ever come out but it'll certainly get your attention when it rocks forward 1/2".


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : a. The Uberfall : Katzenjammer (5.7)
By: Kurtz When: Oct 8, 2014

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Comments: Blast holes? We looked hard and found none...except one high up that is not
visible from the ground. Would someone pls post a pic of the start?


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : f. The Guides' Wall (Madame... : Southern Pillar (5.4)
By: Kurtz When: Sep 29, 2014

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Comments: Definitely NOT for beginning leaders (the easiest line wanders around bushes in the middle of P2) or timid seconds (P2 is very exposed for the grade). The Grey Dick says 5.2 s/b 5.5 That said, I loved it!

Try Northern Pillar for beginners.


Location: CT : Central Valley : Cathole Mountain : Southern Wall : Photo
By: Kurtz When: Aug 30, 2014

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Comments: That's because I'm a classy guy! 20 lb. dog butt included for scale.


Location: CT : Central Valley : Cathole Mountain : Southern Wall
By: Kurtz When: Aug 29, 2014

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Comments: I cannot stress enough how much LOOSE ROCK is in this area (at the top, at the bottom and on the routes). I suggest starting with everyone at the top. Build an anchor and clean the routes top-down on rappel before attempting to climb. Belay well off to the side, wear a helmet, and keep everyone out of the fall lines.


Location: International : North America : Canada : Nova Scotia : Sandy Cove Bouldering
By: Kurtz When: Aug 27, 2014

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Comments: My daughter and I spent a couple of hours here and had a blast! We were vacationing in the area and our new friends at Climb Nova Scotia turned us on to this place. Sweet!


Location: CT : Western Highlands : Whitestone Cliff : Right Side : Hollywood (5.9) : Photo
By: Kurtz When: Aug 2, 2014

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Comments: Not 100% sure of topo. Corrections solicited.


Location: CT : Western Highlands : Whitestone Cliff : Lower Cliff : Route 2 (5.8- PG13)
By: Kurtz When: Aug 2, 2014

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Comments: Does anyone know the real name of this route?


Location: CT : Western Highlands : Whitestone Cliff : Lower Cliff : Route 1 (5.7 PG13)
By: Kurtz When: Aug 2, 2014

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Comments: Does anyone know the real name of this route?


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Near Trapps : a. Beginning of cliff to Ge... : Baskerville Terrace (5.7 PG13)
By: Kurtz When: Jul 20, 2014

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Comments: IMHO the P1 crux (Photo) was pretty darn stiff for 5.7. Fell on a gold BD nut (it's still there). Was glad I took the time to place it well. Second attempt I went up on the right side which seemed easier.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Near Trapps : b. Gelsa to Moe (closure) : Shitface (5.10b/c R)
By: Kurtz When: Jun 30, 2014

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Comments: Beware of Poison Ivy patch in the rocks near the start.


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