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Member Since: Jan 1, 2001
Last Visit: Oct 26, 2003
Contact Kreighton Bieger


Point Rank: # 881
Total Points: 714
Last Year: 0
Last 30 Days: 0
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 180 | Routes 32 | Areas 8 | Photos 43 | Page Improvments | Comments 59 | Posts | Stars 35 | Ratings 3
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Torrey's Peak : Kelso Ridge
By: Kreighton Bieger When: Aug 22, 2003

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Comments: AC, (or is it AF now), I am a little confused by your [aggression] towards those who might be considered 'speed climbers' or rather, climbers who focus on how long it takes to climb things. It occurs to me, from all your ranting about "manly-man egos" and "bragging", that you're working from the assumption that those who climb and time the effort do so only for the sake of their egos or insecurities. On this point you are sadly and ridiculously mistaken.

People who do these things, believe it o... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Bell Buttress Massif : Bean Liquor Wall : Beano Hangover (5.12a)
By: Kreighton Bieger When: Aug 20, 2003

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Comments: Dunno Tony,

Anyone would know that wasn't me, since I wouldn't refer to myself as "the bomb". But that's just me.

Perhaps the cookies on your hard drive betray some latent desire you have to be me, or at least my sexy cb.com persona. It happens.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Bell Buttress Massif : Bean Liquor Wall : Beano Hangover (5.12a)
By: Kreighton Bieger When: Aug 20, 2003

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Comments: I did not submit this route - someone perhaps mis-selected my name?

signed,"The Real, Non 5.12 Climbing" Kreighton Bieger


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Lower Dream Canyon : Plotinus Wall : ... : Snooze Button (5.10b)
By: Kreighton Bieger When: Jul 15, 2003

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Comments: Another nice route on this wall. Nice climbing with an interesting crux.

We climbed here at about 11am and it was IN the sun and hot.

While short and sort of a one-move wonder, the crux felt like 10b to me.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Lower Dream Canyon : Plotinus Wall : ... : Mr. Sandman (5.10a)
By: Kreighton Bieger When: Jul 9, 2003

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Comments: Another vote for the quality of this route here. This is indeed an excellent route on quality rock, with moves that are surprisingly aesthetic and continuous. This is one of the finer bolted routes I've ever done, bar none. Thanks to Bob and Vaino for this line.

These days I'm more inclined to see route ratings as unique to the area as much as being strictly conforming to the YDS. I.e. "an Eldo 5.9" or "a Vedauwoo 5.9" seems to mean more, if that information is available.

That said, I think th... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Fifth Flatiron : East Face, North Side (5.3 R)
By: Kreighton Bieger When: May 14, 2003

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Comments: I'll second Mark's comment that this route is harder than the E. face South Side. The rock tends to be lichenous, and thus a bit suspect, protection opportunities are sparse, and the most difficult moves are harder than what I encountered on the South side.

That said, this is a fantastic route can be done by starting at and staying very near to the north margin of the rock. Great exposure and good climbing for the 'moderately serious though outwardly casual Flatiron scrambler'.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : Seal Rock : East Face South Side (5.4)
By: Kreighton Bieger When: May 14, 2003

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Comments: What a great route! It is noticeably harder in a few spots than the E. face North Side, but overall did not feel as sustained to me.

An alternate start is to do only the first move or two in the crack described (and pictured) and pull left onto the face for excellent slab climbing in the 5.3-5.4 range. These moves are unprotected, but the difficulty eases off quickly.

If one chooses to climb straight up from the tree for a piece before cutting left, there is a fairly large band of slippery sa... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Upper Dream Canyon : Oceanic Wall : Challenges of Leisure (5.13b)
By: Kreighton Bieger When: May 6, 2003

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Comments: This line looks so great, but I can't climb 13b. Not to worry, though, even though Jim put the route up at 13b (and what could Jim Redo possibly know about these things?), and it's gone from 12c, to 12b, to 12a in the peanut gallery. I had hope there for a few weeks that I'd be able to get on this route once it hit the low 11 range....

Alas, my hopes were dashed when Jim corrected the situation. I'm still hoping though! Maybe someone should rename this route "The Dow of Difficulty".

kreighton,... more >>


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Sand Gulch : Contest Wall : Regroovable (5.11b)
By: Kreighton Bieger When: Mar 10, 2003

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Comments: Great route, one of the best I've done at Shelf!

Based on other 11s I've done at Shelf, and in keeping with Rico's 'slash' grade system (imho, a good one), I'd call this 5.11a/b.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Tangen Towers : In Focus (5.10)
By: Kreighton Bieger When: Jan 18, 2003

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Comments: Warren and George - thanks for adding a new quality route to the Flatirons!

Matt made a good point and I also can't help but wonder if all the AC folks realize that Warren and George have climbed, between them, literally hundreds, if not thousands of routes in the Flatirons and what do they do? They go looking for more! Hooray for the spirit of adventure!!




Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - S Buttress : C'est La Vie (5.11b)
By: Kreighton Bieger When: Jun 14, 2002

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Comments: For those such as myself who find the 'regular' second pitch rather intimidating, the 5.9 variation is a great way to get to the anchors, or just do a nice second pitch. This is also a good way to reach the anchors to toprope the crux dihedral (be sure to set a directional).

From the anchors at the top of the first pitch, below the dihedral, traverse up and right to gain a thin right-leaning crack. Execute a few tricky, balancy moves to gain the arete, then work up and left to gain the top of t... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Bastille : The Bastille - W Face : Breakfast in Bed (5.8)
By: Kreighton Bieger When: Jun 12, 2002

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Comments: If we're talking of the piton that is below and left of the initial dihedral, then I've always started it to the right of that pin. That starts you directly below the overhanging dihedral. These moves are stout, intimidating and not too easy to protect. Blow the moves and you'll probably bounce onto the ledge. I've always thought this was one of the more sustained and tricky 8s in Eldo. At least one solid Eldo 11 leader I know put in about six pieces before commiting to the initial mantle into ... more >>


Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon of the Gunniso... : North Chasm View Wall : Escape Artist (5.9+)
By: Kreighton Bieger When: Jun 11, 2002

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Comments: This route is so good! Given how good the majority of the rock is, it is apparently not too Black Canyon-esque, but it is a stellar route.

Scramble up high, as Charles suggested, and the first two pitches go easily in about 185 feet. The second pitch, the Vector Traverse, is possibly the best pitch of 5.9 I've ever done! It is just so good!! Lots of fingers to small hands pieces protect the pitch (#3-#4 Metolius, .5-.75 Camalot, etc), and the exit is spicy!

The crux pitch felt ... more >>


Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon of the Gunniso... : The Checkerboard Wall : The Maiden Voyage aka The R... (5.9)
By: Kreighton Bieger When: Jun 10, 2002

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Comments: Shoot! The previous comment should read "did not feel like a grade III", hence, it felt like a grade II. My bad, sorry for the confusion.


Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon of the Gunniso... : The Checkerboard Wall : The Maiden Voyage aka The R... (5.9)
By: Kreighton Bieger When: Jun 10, 2002

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Comments: In case it's not clear from Darin's comments, the route cannot be done in three pitches if the second belay is set below the twin cracks. A 60 meter rope will not reach the walk-off ledge.

That said, done in either three pitches, or three and a very short fourth pitch, this route didn't feel like a grade II. I think we were camp to camp in about four hours, as a party of three.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Torrey's Peak : Kelso Ridge
By: Kreighton Bieger When: Jun 7, 2002

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Comments: I'm with Warren here, AC. Sounds like a duck, looks like a duck... I don't know if 3:30 is a fast time or not, having not done this linkup of which you speak, but there are a lot of fast folks in the area who willingly own up to their deeds. The fact that you chose to remain anonymous undermines your claim. Unless of course, you're Bill and just forgot to sign your name.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Watermark
By: Kreighton Bieger When: Jun 6, 2002

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Comments: A little more beta on the approach...

Rossiter suggests parking just past Practice Rock. If you do this, the walk is shorter to the 'lower' tyrolian, but you have to cross the road. Drive just over 1/10th of a mile past Practice Rock, park on the right at a small pullout. Cross the road, cross the barrier, and locate the tyrolian. It deposits you onto a large talus slope.

Turn right after getting off the rope, walk about 20 meters staying 25 feet or so above the water. Enter the trees at a fai... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Watermark : The Memory of Trees (5.9)
By: Kreighton Bieger When: Jun 6, 2002

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Comments: As of 6/5/02 this route has nine bolts, though only six are easily visible from the ground. Two long draws for the bolts below the roofs will prevent rope drag at the top.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Mine Hole Crag : Little Stevie's Favorite He... (5.11a)
By: Kreighton Bieger When: May 21, 2002

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Comments: I should point out that my estimation of the grade of this and "unknown 2" are just that - my own estimates. I based this grade on how it felt to lead it and my wife's efforts to follow it. Could be anywhere from 10b to 11d (snicker).


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Skunk Canyon : ... : Stairway to Heaven (5.3)
By: Kreighton Bieger When: May 21, 2002

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Comments: This is a fantastic route! It's like a hidden Flatiron! Of course, as the photos indicate, I could generally only see 100 feet at a time, but it was still a terrific outing.

I did think the downclimb had some of the hardest moves of the route, so consider that if 5.3-5.4 downclimbing is not your strong suit.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Mine Hole Crag : Ruff Roof (5.11d)
By: Kreighton Bieger When: May 19, 2002

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Comments: What a varied route! Steep slab climbing, slopers, crimps and a strenuous roof - all in 90 feet!

The scramble to the first bolt is fourth class, but beware of loose rock - my rope dislodged a pretty hefty place from the junk. This route is well bolted, pumpy and interesting all the way to the chains.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Mine Hole Crag : Sofa Kingdom (5.10)
By: Kreighton Bieger When: May 19, 2002

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Comments: I concur with Ray's comment. Did this route today and it felt like 5.9 for the Canyon - no harder. The bolts might be a bit reachy for the more vertically challenged, but the climbing is not 5.10. Compared to Eldo, this is probably 5.7.

Great route though! Beware of loose rock and the potential for a nasty tumble getting to the first bolt!


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Mine Hole Crag : Get Your Dieck Off My Barny... (5.10a)
By: Kreighton Bieger When: May 19, 2002

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Comments: Shoot! I thought you looked like Ray Snead! I was there with my wife today, as you were leaving. We did all the routes here. This is a good one. #1 Metolius is good before the slab moves, which are, as Ray said, lots of fun (if brief.)

The route to the left of this one appears to be abandoned -anyone have any info?


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Mine Hole Crag
By: Kreighton Bieger When: May 19, 2002

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Comments: There are definitely other routes in that area - to the right of Ruff Roof (easily identified) there are at least five more lines, although the leftmost of that bunch appears to be unfinished.

If anyone can submit the names of these routes, I have photos and descriptions of them. Not sure about FA info, though. I'd put them at 10a/b, 11a/b, 12?(done directly), 9, not including the unfinished line.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Wind Tower : Wind Tower - SW Face : Calypso (5.6)
By: Kreighton Bieger When: May 18, 2002

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Comments: Did Calypso as one long 60m pitch today with no problems and no hanging belay, and rope to spare. Started left (the easy start), lots of long runners, and didn't place any gear to the left at the first roof/corner. A blue Alien placed near the right side of the roof with a long sling will get you a pretty straight rope line. Skip the bolts, fire right up the second pitch crack and you should arrive at the first big ledge with some rope to spare.

I don't know if I could have made it 10 feet hig... more >>


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