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turkey rocks


Member Since: Jan 18, 2006
Last Visit: Apr 11, 2014
Contact kirkadirka


Point Rank: # 2,351
Total Points: 208
Last Year: 93
Last 30 Days: 0
9 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas are worth 15
Routes are worth 10
Photos are worth 5
Comments are worth 1



Where has kirkadirka been climbing?










Contributions


All (532) | Routes (4) | Areas | Photos (26) | Comments (38) | Posts (97) | Stars (342) | Ratings (25)
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: International : South America : Argentina : San Carlos de Bariloche : Frey : ... : Lost Fingers (5.10c)
By: kirkadirka When: Jan 30, 2014

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Comments: After looking at the description here as well as the photo of pitch 3, it looks like we got off route after the first pitch. Instead of going right from the first belay we followed the crack up and left. Eventually we hit the top of the formation just right of Sifuentes Weber. Great route, I'll have to look back at the guidebook to see what we did.


Location: International : South America : Argentina : Mendoza (Los Arenales) : Molestado por las vacas (5.12)
By: kirkadirka When: Jan 22, 2014

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Comments: The crux pitch has yet to see a clean lead. I freed all of the moves but was not able to put it all together. Go get it!


Location: International : South America : Argentina : Mendoza (Los Arenales)
By: kirkadirka When: Jan 20, 2014

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Comments: More beta on Arenales.

Trailhead and Approach

The trailhead involves driving on many kilometers of gravel road west of TunuyŠn. We barely made it with a low clearance 2wd vehicle. If coming by public transport or a very low clearance vehicle a shuttle may be arranged by stopping at the market near the giant Jesu Christo statue (where the road turns to gravel).

You will also need to pass through Aduana as the valley is very close to the Chile border. Passport required.

Many people camp... more >>


Location: International : South America : Argentina : San Carlos de Bariloche : Frey
By: kirkadirka When: Jan 20, 2014

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Comments: More beta on Frey alternative approach.

I made several trips there in 2013/2014 and used the standard approach as well as the approach using the ski lifts from the base area. The times for approach to the refugio ranged from 4 hours (standard route) to 2 hours 20 minutes (ski lift approach) with a 50+ pound pack. The alternative approach involves cheating (2 ski lifts) but saves time and your legs. The cost to take the ski lifts up was 120 pesos in January 2014. At the top of the ski lift simpl... more >>


Location: ID : The Sawtooth Range : The Elephant's Perch : The Fine Line (5.11a)
By: kirkadirka When: Jul 26, 2013

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Comments: It looks like most of the death flake came off. But there is still a small amount of rotten rock that will come off over time.

Fine line is good but not as good as the Direct Beckey.

Reasons for this route only getting 3 stars:

  • Some less than perfect rock on P1 combined with old fixed protection. The climbing on P1 is brilliant however. I wish I could have convinced myself to go for it but it is past my risk tolerance in it's current state.

  • The second half of P4 and the first half of P5 a...
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Location: ID : The Sawtooth Range : The Elephant's Perch : Direct Beckey (5.11a)
By: kirkadirka When: Jul 26, 2013

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Comments: We never found the loose flake described on the topo for pitch 2.

Stellar Line, better than the fine line.


Location: CO : Golden : Golden Gate Canyon SP : Dude's Throne : Dude's Jam Crack (5.11a)
By: kirkadirka When: Jun 24, 2013

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Comments: 4 star quality climbing on 2 star quality rock.


Location: CO : South Platte : Turkey Rocks : Turkey Tail : Turkey Turd (5.11c)
By: kirkadirka When: May 20, 2013

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Comments: Rope drag can be bad once past the roof, so do your best to runner gear beneath and through the roof.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Long's Peak : The Diamond : The Obelisk (5.11a)
By: kirkadirka When: Aug 6, 2012

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Comments: Here are my thoughts after climbing the Obelisk.

  • This is a phenomenal climb, and rounds out 3 great routes on the Obelisk Pillar.
  • The traverse from Pervertical is a bit tricky and committing. The bolt is where you want to start heading left. I will leave it at that as part of the fun of leading that pitch is figuring it out.
  • Both the thin hands pitch and the offwidth pitch warrant a 5.11 rating.
  • One new #5 Camalot with other gear in the small crack in the offwidth works great.



Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Sentinel Rock : Chouinard-Herbert (5.11c)
By: kirkadirka When: Jun 12, 2012

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Comments: Would love to see a legit description of this route if anyone has got one.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : 4X4 : Unnamed 5.11 (36) - RF corn... (5.11)
By: kirkadirka When: May 16, 2012

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Comments: This thing is a choss pile with lots of poor quality rock. One of the anchor bolts was also loose.


Location: CO : New South Platte Guidebook ...
By: kirkadirka When: May 3, 2012

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Comments: Thanks, Jason, looking forward to the new guide.

For those of us too lazy to pre-order, can you please let us know when the books are actually available in-store.

Thanks!


Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon of the Gunniso... : North Rim Routes : Atlantis (5.11 PG13) : Photo
By: kirkadirka When: May 1, 2012

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Comments: I went the same way as pictured and would not recommend it.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Way Rambo : Way Rambo (5.12-)
By: kirkadirka When: Apr 10, 2012

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Comments: does alf have little girl hands?


Location: CO : South Platte : West Creek : Thunder Ridge : The Wasp Canyon : The G Route (5.12)
By: kirkadirka When: Mar 26, 2012

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Comments: Just a heads up to those attempting/belaying below the route: the final jug near the ancors is definitely loose. I felt it flex as I climbed to the anchors and could wiggle it as I was lowering off and inspecting furhter. Be careful, and have the belayer be out of the way. It is a pretty sizeable chunk of rock.


Location: CO : South Platte : Turkey Rocks : Turkey Tail : I Turkey/ Resurrection (5.12a/b)
By: kirkadirka When: Mar 5, 2012

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Comments: Can anyone attest to the age of these bolts? A number of them are spinners and not very confidence inspiring.

Super cool line, would love to see some bomber bolts replacing the old ones.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Broken Tooth : Rock Lobster (5.11b) : Photo
By: kirkadirka When: Mar 2, 2012

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Comments: Before teaching handjams, one must first learn how to put on a harness correctly:)


Location: CO : South Platte : Buffalo Creek : The Castle
By: kirkadirka When: Aug 30, 2011

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Comments: The company managing the lake is now charging $9 PER PERSON to park and go climb. Either be prepared to pay out the a$$ to climb here or be creative.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Long's Peak : The Diamond : Black Dagger (5.11a)
By: kirkadirka When: Aug 9, 2011

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Comments: Definitely some loose stuff inside of the dagger. Be careful when climbing through that section especially if there are parties below.

This route doesn't appear to get the traffic it deserves, quite a bit of vegetation on the pitch getting into the dagger.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Book : The Pages Wall Area : M.I.C. Exit [aka Parable of... (5.10d R)
By: kirkadirka When: Jul 21, 2011

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Comments: I'll go ahead and disagree with paco as well. I thought this was a pretty good pitch. Slightly harder than Cheap Date. Thoughtful, thin climbing at the bottom and slightly awkward jamming through the upper bit. Takes good gear.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Castle Rock : Storming the Castle (5.11)
By: kirkadirka When: May 26, 2011

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Comments: I agree, super fun line that definitely adds to Castle Rock. If it were only a toprope line, I never would have been interested in it.


Location: CO : South Platte : Turkey Rocks
By: kirkadirka When: May 24, 2011

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Comments: No fire bans currently. Also, FYI Turkey Rocks is in Teller County not Douglas County.


Location: CO : South Platte : Turkey Rocks : Turkey Tail : Quivering Quill (5.10c)
By: kirkadirka When: Sep 9, 2010

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Comments: Agreed, the anchor location is downright retarded. It seems that a good anchor could be had up and left above the offwidth/slot section. Phenomenal route.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Mission Wall : Gneiss Roof (AKA: Nice Ride... (5.9+)
By: kirkadirka When: Jul 11, 2009

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Comments: A large block right above the lip of the roof of the 5.11 variation is gone as of today. Not sure what this variation will now go at.

The normal route is unaffected.


Location: CO : South Platte : Wigwam Creek/Lost Creek Wil... : Wigwam Dome : Ramblin' Rose (5.10)
By: kirkadirka When: Nov 29, 2008

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Comments: This was a great route!

Replacing the bolts on the pitch above the crux would definitely be worthwhile. Even if those bolts were good that pitch would still be a little exciting.

If anyone wanted to undertake that task (I don't have a bolt kit or the knowledge) please feel free to contact me through this site.

Kirk


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