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Location: CO : Eagle/Vail/Leadville : Gilman Canyon : Gilman Canyon Crags : Crack of ONO (5.10c)
By: Kirk Miller When: 2 days ago | view comment >> |
Comments: I climbed this in 1986 with Rusty Kirkpatrick. Pretty sure ours was the FA. Had to clean quite a bit out of the crack as I recall....
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Location: WY : Sinks Canyon : Commercial Business Plannin...
By: Kirk Miller When: May 9, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Wow! Comercial development in pristine, environmentally sensitive, wild areas.
Great Idea!!!
I think an Ice Cream truck playing loud, dorky, ding dong, pop goes the fuckin' weasel, cruising the crags at 15 minute intervals would be just fantastic! While we're at it let's put in a WalMart, Kmart, Target, and a couple 7-11 / KwikyMarts.
Any other great ideas?
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Dog House : Li'l Dog (5.11a/b)
By: Kirk Miller When: May 1, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: One of the most useful features of MP is the consensus grade. When routes go in, they tend to be graded according to the FA's feel for the route on that particular day. Often first impressions are accurate, but consensus weighs way more heavily towards establishing more accurate grades.
So... .10d, .11b... I'll go with whatever the crowds decide.
(Last time I got on it, it felt easier than 11b to me as well.)
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Location: CO : Golden : The East Quarry : Viagra Crack (A0)
By: Kirk Miller When: Apr 24, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: For the record...
The bolts at the top and the bottom were placed before Viagra Crack was even cleaned.
This crack system was first examined and cursorily cleaned from the original Pretzel Logic anchors. Pretzel Logic starts and finishes on this crack.
When John Langston first tried the crack, he drilled two bolts to supplement the gear. He was finally able to free the route, naming it Hellhound (great name).
In a bold effort, Mr. Langston returned and freed Hellhound again using only o... more >>
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Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The North End : The Lifus's Farm Tools (5.10b)
By: Kirk Miller When: Apr 9, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: It's always fun to encounter the crux with the last bolt all but out of sight below....
Good example of a contrived runout detracting from an otherwise stellar climb.
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Location: CO : Golden : Golden Gate Canyon SP : Dude's Throne : Raven's Brew (5.11d)
By: Kirk Miller When: Mar 15, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Hey Geoff, I finally got back on this again, fun but burly! You go big, straight to the jugs, throwing with your left hand. Right hand in the high, huge, undercling side-pull and left foot high stepped. If you don't hit the jugs, it's possible to crimp below and bump to them. Stemming behind your back makes it a bit easier. I didn't use the stem on the FA (I was too charged up to even notice the option) and avoided it yesterday, for full value.
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Location: CO : Pinecliffe : Photo
By: Kirk Miller When: Nov 4, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: The shady, North face on the right is the crag called Shaft. On the shady face there are two bolted 5.7s that take off from the ledge. Around the right side of the crag there is a shaft splitting the rock with two more bolted routes inside, a .12 and a .10.
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Location: CO : Golden : Golden Gate Canyon SP : Dude's Throne : Open Space Cowboy (5.12a)
By: Kirk Miller When: Oct 26, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: You're probably right, Kevin. 12a seems to be the going consensus. I'll go with that.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Gate Buttress : Beckey's Wall Area : ... : Photo
By: Kirk Miller When: Sep 25, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Inspirational! We should all be so fortunate to have such a climbing life.
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Canal Zone : Walking With A Ghost (5.11)
By: Kirk Miller When: Sep 4, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Kipp.fo,
Sorry it took so long to respond to your post.... The bailout is near the second to last bolt, and if you cut left there, the final crux can be avoided but you end up so far to the left, it becomes difficult to clip the final protection bolt. If you've climbed right up to the final bolt and clipped it, you're on route for sure!
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Location: CO : Pinecliffe : Shaft
By: Kirk Miller When: Aug 26, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Who's the black private dick
That's a sex machine to all the chicks?
SHAFT!
Ya damn right!
Who is the man that would risk his neck
For his brother man?
SHAFT!
Can you dig it?
Who's the cat that won't cop out
When there's danger all about?
SHAFT!
Right On!
They say this cat Shaft is a bad mother.
SHUT YOUR MOUTH!
I'm talkin' 'bout Shaft.
THEN WE CAN DIG IT!
He's a complicated man,
But no one understands him but his woman.
JOHN SHAFT!
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Location: CO : Golden : Golden Gate Canyon SP : The Grendel
By: Kirk Miller When: Jun 25, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thanks Kevin,
Glad to see the trail is being used. When we developed the crag, one concern was to establish a consistent route to curtail wandering in the woods and the social trails that result.
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Location: CO : Golden : Golden Gate Canyon SP : Dude's Throne : Dude's Dihedral (5.11-)
By: Kirk Miller When: Jun 17, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: No correction necessary, you got it right. Dude's Dihedral, 11.
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Location: CO : Golden : Lover's Leap on Beaver Broo... : Bed And Breakfast (5.8)
By: Kirk Miller When: May 15, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: 5.8 sounds good to me. I thought it felt like a .9, but it's always harder when you're climbing through the lichen and munge on the FA. Jared gave it a good brushing down when we finished, so I'm not too surprised it goes easier.
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Location: CO : Golden : Golden Gate Canyon SP : Dude's Throne
By: Kirk Miller When: Mar 21, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Good to hear your getting back out there again, Bruce.
Mark Rolofson gives Dude's Dihedral .11b in Golden Rock Climbs. The crux sequence feels like .11 to me.
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : The Mustang
By: Kirk Miller When: Dec 10, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: We're going down to Canelo and will be taking time to climb at the Mustang. Probably leave Golden the 17th. Anyone up for giving us the tour?
We'll have Beer.
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Canal Zone : Beasto (5.10-)
By: Kirk Miller When: Aug 19, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Easiest possible way, .9, but if you pull the direct arete and don't step left around the corner, pretty solid .10 so I'll go with .10-.
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Photo
By: Kirk Miller When: May 27, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: On the summit of Kelso. A very fun day; the younger goats started jumping around in excitement when we launched into our first turns.
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Canal Zone : Walking With A Ghost (5.11)
By: Kirk Miller When: May 8, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Sent this again last Friday from the Snake Eyes start... cool throws into huecos to fun, thin biz! Not sure which holds broke off; every time I get on it, I've been using (or falling off) the same holds I used on the FA.
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Location: CO : Golden : North Table Mountain/Golden... : Winter Warmer Area : Crash Test Blondes (5.9-)
By: Kirk Miller When: Mar 19, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Finish on Chossy Achievers and you've climbed Crash Test Achievers.
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : The Mustang
By: Kirk Miller When: Dec 24, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Have the bees settled down sufficient for a Christmas / New Year's visit???
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Convenience Cliff
By: Kirk Miller When: Dec 19, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thanks, Jay. I've made the corrections you suggested to the L to R list and corrected the references to route names in the route locations. Hope I got it right this time. I am psyched to see this great little crag has been getting some more attention! Props on the new routes.
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Location: CO : Golden : Golden Gate Canyon SP : Dude's Throne : In Harmsen's Way (5.9+)
By: Kirk Miller When: Nov 9, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Avoid the bolts and climb the crack to the left...Kirill's Way.
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Quandary Peak : Cristo Couloir (Easy Snow)
By: Kirk Miller When: Oct 2, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: A classic ski descent in the spring! South facing, so it tends to set up early. Climb it while it's frozen in the wee hours of the morning, take a nap while you wait for the sun, and tip your skis off the summit as soon as the snow starts to soften. More corn than Kansas.
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Location: CO : Vote for Jeff Lowe - Eiger ...
By: Kirk Miller When: Apr 11, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Got my vote, hands down.
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