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Member Since: Sep 24, 2005
Last Visit: Nov 9, 2010
Contact Kirill Kireyev


Point Rank: # 5,508
Total Points: 62
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Kirill Kireyev been climbing?










Contributions


All 40 | Routes | Areas | Photos 9 | Page Improvments | Comments 17 | Posts 2 | Stars 6 | Ratings 6

Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Golden : Golden Gate Canyon SP : Dude's Throne : In Harmsen's Way (5.9+)
By: Kirill Kireyev When: Nov 9, 2010

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Comments: Can be climbed entirely on gear, and much more fun that way.


Location: CO : Golden : Golden Gate Canyon SP : Dude's Throne : Golden Gate (5.11d)
By: Kirill Kireyev When: Nov 6, 2010

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Comments: The lower section, though not the crux, has really elegant balancy movement.

The crux is very height-dependent. It felt very hard for me, and I'm 5'9".


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Indian Peaks : Mount Toll : North Ridge (5.6 R)
By: Kirill Kireyev When: Jul 20, 2010

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Comments: Classic route, mostly for exposure and views, not so much for rock quality.

This is the path that we did:
0) Gain the saddle, hike west, scramble (4th class) through a notch and up and right on the ramp. Stop and belay when the wall steepens to 5th class.
1) Climb a left-leaning crack, reach a large ledge, continue another 30 feet up and left until you get to a large, left-facing dihedral with a 5x5 ft ledge (5.6)
2) Climb up and right, aiming for the large slightly overhanging dihedral with a ... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Bastille : The Bastille - N Face : Outer Space (5.10c R)
By: Kirill Kireyev When: May 5, 2009

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Comments: The pin protecting the chimney section at the beginning of the final dihedral on P1 is gone (or at least I could've sworn it was there before). You can get in a #4 BD nut and a pink tricam (neither of which felt bomber) before taking off. Fortunately, you can get gear soon after.

The high traverse on P1 is significantly harder than going low and contains the (5.10c) crux move of the whole climb IMHO.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Rincon : Rincon - L of Center Route : Climb Of The Century (5.11b)
By: Kirill Kireyev When: Nov 18, 2008

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Comments: Somehow I managed to get suckered left around the corner at the beginning. Don't do that.

Bring a black and blue Aliens or two blacks for the crux. Blue TCU/Red BD are too big.


Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon of the Gunniso... : The Checkerboard Wall : Checkerboard Wall (5.10)
By: Kirill Kireyev When: Sep 16, 2008

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Comments: I feel like I have to balance out the comments here.

The 5.9 stretches on P3 and P5 ARE runout. They're not death falls, but you need to be competent climbing delicate 5.9 face/slab and placing marginal gear. P3 "crack" (after turning the corner) is more like a thin seam. I wouldn't lead it if leading 5.9 is your limit.

Otherwise a sweet climb for sure.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Hallett Peak : Jackin' the Johnson (5.11b/c)
By: Kirill Kireyev When: Jul 23, 2008

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Comments: We could not find this route for the life of us. Any beta would be appreciated.


Location: Travis Hibbard : Jams, Cams, & Crimps : Photo
By: Kirill Kireyev When: Jul 17, 2008

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Comments: FUCKING OVALS!!!!


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Half Dome : Snake Dike (5.7 R)
By: Kirill Kireyev When: May 6, 2008

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Comments: Question:
Are there any potential scary pendulum falls for the second on this route? I.e. would it be a bad idea to take a 5.8- climber as your second? Thanks!


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Rincon : Rincon - Center Route & R : Rincon (5.11a)
By: Kirill Kireyev When: Apr 13, 2008

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Comments: A few comments on the higher pitches:

P3: Yes, you can definitely place something above the pin, although it's a bit strenuous, so be ready to act quickly. I was able to squeeze in a Metolius cam in the higher of the two finger pods in the dihedral (I had my hand in the lower).

P4: Worth doing - it starts as a slightly overhanging, red rock, shallow, left-facing dihedral (behind the giant boulder) - there's a bolt on the left side. When the seam ends and overhanging bulges begin move left to a... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part D - Xanad... : Xanadu (5.10a)
By: Kirill Kireyev When: Oct 8, 2006

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Comments: There ARE bolts at the top of this route now. 60m rope required.
Awesome route!


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : Super Slab (5.10+)
By: Kirill Kireyev When: Jan 15, 2006

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Comments: I personally was confused about where I should go to turn the "blind corner" for pitch 3 (5.8) described in the book (also partly because I wasn't sure where p2 ends, since there are several options for a belay station).

The answer is: look for a ~2ft niche (indentation) in the contour of the arete on the left. This is where you'll turn the corner. The traverse to it from start of p3 looks unprotected, but it's not - there are good cracks in left-facing corners which are simply not visible from... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Dome : Prelude to King Kong (5.9)
By: Kirill Kireyev When: Nov 3, 2005

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Comments: Near the top, don't use the sloping block on the left - stick to the dihedral on the right - keeps the level more consistent.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - S Buttress : The Bulge (5.7 R)
By: Kirill Kireyev When: Oct 23, 2005

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Comments: Just out of curiousity: has anyone tried to go straight up at the start of pitch 2 (instead of the right-left zigzag)?


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Lumpe to the to... : The Green Spur (5.9)
By: Kirill Kireyev When: Oct 1, 2005

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Comments: The first (offwidth) crux on P2 is pain in the butt with a backpack - ditch it if you can


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower Two : Rosy Crucifixion (5.10a PG13)
By: Kirill Kireyev When: Sep 26, 2005

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Comments: There should be a wooden stick in the cave at the beginning of pitch 1. You can use it to stick-clip the first bolt - the beginning moves are a lot trickier than it seems.

Oh and make sure you're very clear on how you're going to descend.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower Two : Touch 'N' Go (5.8+)
By: Kirill Kireyev When: Sep 24, 2005

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Comments: This climb eats small nuts really well... a little too well! I "donated" 3 of them.