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Location: NV : Red Rock : Willow Spring : Ragged Edges Area
By: Killing In The Name Of When: May 17, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: He means that Joe Herbst, Mark Moore, Jon Martinet, Matt McMackin, Nick Nordblom, Randall Grandstaff, Jeff Lansing, John Landaker, Jim Whitesell, Richard Harrison, Wendell Broussard, Paul Van Betten, John Bachar, and Sal Mamusia don't get the whole Yosemite Decimal System.
I don't think anyone really understands the Yosemite Decimal System, so maybe ol' Sax is onto something here. Though getting spanked at the Springs is a pretty unusual thing. He must've trusted the wrong description of Aikid... more >>
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Willow Spring : Ragged Edges Area : Aikido Gun Boy (5.11+ R)
By: Killing In The Name Of When: May 15, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: That's correct. I haven't had your full pants.
Time to start lighting candles in churches..
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : The Fringe : Open Project (5.13)
By: Killing In The Name Of When: Apr 21, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: No pics? Damn, Mike, am I going to have to walk all the way up there to realize this is too much work for me?
On a serious note, cool of you to post up an open project. Most sportos out here would probably have just "added holds", and claimed it at whatever reduced grade. Looking forward to getting out there and checking it out. Thanks for making the effort. Civilization is cleaning up and getting better and better these days.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Challenger Wall : Adventure Punks (5.10d)
By: Killing In The Name Of When: Apr 14, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: The "direct start" is a 5.9 move, there's only one move on the first pitch that I thought even rated 10a. Traversing in looked like way more of a pain in the ass and more of an attempt to avoid the nature of the route than much "safer", seeing as the possibility of a good-sized swinging fall and lack of a clear route burn time and psych that could be better put to use higher on the route where the real challenges lie. If you can't handle a .9 groundfall possibility on good rock, there are a lot ... more >>
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Black Velvet Wall : Epinephrine (5.9)
By: Killing In The Name Of When: Apr 14, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route can be a shitshow on weekends and holidays, plan to be there earlier than anything else I can think of, other than maybe Crimson.
This is not a good route to learn how to chimney on. This is not a route to haul your school backpack up. This is not a good route to try with an unfamiliar partner. This is not a route to drag your girlfriend up when she is still learning how to tie a figure 8. This is not a route to do if you are trying to be courteous to slower parties in front of you-... more >>
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Straight Shooter Wall : Orange Clonus (5.10d)
By: Killing In The Name Of When: Apr 12, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Ixtlan's stout, that doesn't make all other routes easier by some arcane algebra.
A route with a hard move gets rated as its hardest move. A route with a few dozen hard moves can still be that same grade, or, if you're at the Red, 13c.
That first pitch is a finger-wrecking mean mutha. Call it 5.2 if it makes you feel better. I'm not buying it.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : First Pullout : The Hamlet
By: Killing In The Name Of When: Apr 10, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: ^^^^Impossible. The rock is super solid and the first ascentionists discriminating about where bolts and routes themselves are placed.
Sarcasm, for those who didn't catch that.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Brownstone Wall : Ten Minute Shift (5.11b)
By: Killing In The Name Of When: Apr 7, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Bring cord for the descent. First ascentionists didn't shell out for chain on the raps, so with the amount of sun this wall gets, you will be guaranteed bleached slings at every station.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Brownstone Wall : Hueco Thanks (5.7)
By: Killing In The Name Of When: Apr 7, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Shit rock. You've been warned, enjoy at your own risk.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Brownstone Wall : Sweet Thin (5.9)
By: Killing In The Name Of When: Apr 7, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Whew. I'm going out on a limb here and asserting that this route is a bit of a mess. It reminded me of the clusterfuckery of variations to variations crisscrossing each other up at Mount Chiselton, with similar craftsmanship shown by the first ascentionists, minus the hold manufacturing.
If you look at the Handren guide, p. 159, it looks like there are several lines here that all give each other plenty of room. What I saw was vertical trail braiding, harware store Redheads married to stainless... more >>
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Ginger Buttress : Fist or Flips (5.10c)
By: Killing In The Name Of When: Apr 5, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Nice, dude. Heard this thing needs some anchor love. Also heard the edge of the crack is razor sharp+can cut you through a shirt.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : First Creek Canyon : Lotta Balls Wall : Lotta Balls (5.8)
By: Killing In The Name Of When: Apr 1, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: ^^^^^^Wrong, wrong, wrong again, and also, wrong. Don't pay any attention to the previous post, which is about as far off from reality as possible. Don't hesitate to bring webbing to back up the existing stuff on trees, this is good policy in many parts of Red Rock, not just this descent. I'm not taking time to pick apart all of the inaccuracies, just making a statement of erroneousness and moving on.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : First Creek Canyon : Lotta Balls Wall : Lotta Brews (5.7+)
By: Killing In The Name Of When: Mar 18, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: A fun route for someone looking for a little variety on a much-traveled cliff. Pitch 2 is a real gem in my book. A better link-up than the one described here might be to link Lotta Brews' first pitches into P3 of Black Magic, but this would bump up the grade a bit, and avoid the thought-provoking roof-to-traverse section on P3 of Bruja's, which kept the excitment pretty high for the grade.
Thanks to my thankless partner who endured yet another run up a moderate to scope out what needed to be r... more >>
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Sandstone Quarry : Hidden Corridor : Hidden Edge (5.10b)
By: Killing In The Name Of When: Mar 3, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Amazing eye for detail. Verbose, though.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Sandstone Quarry : The Trophy Wall : Meatlocker (5.12+)
By: Killing In The Name Of When: Mar 2, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Go chop away, choppy macChopperson. Bolt chopping is good, right?
Talk-action=0. Let's see the video of the bolt chopping up on this page. Get to it, attaboy! Bonus points if you wear boy pants while doing it!
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : Sunny and Steep : Scorpions (5.11a)
By: Killing In The Name Of When: Mar 2, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: ^^^^^^My six masters' degrees in engineering tell me that 2 drops of loctite save these kinds of posts and the eventual removal of the hardware that's paid for by kind donations.
That's just the benefit of spending 80 years in engineering school.
Or, having three brain cells, total. Stapled together. With duct tape backup.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Second Pullout : Sun City : Retirement Plan (5.7)
By: Killing In The Name Of When: Feb 20, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: You know, Mark, I know dozens of bald fat short guys that complain less about not having bolts for routefinding purposes than you. Enjoy slinging mud at strangers, crying for lowest common denominator standards, and generally not being familiar with the double digit difficulty that the rest of the world is climbing in their sleep while you attempt to rile a guy who gets laid more than your last ten years in a given week. I am Jack's total lack of interest in your gumby menstruations...
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Brownstone Wall : The Nightcrawler (5.10b)
By: Killing In The Name Of When: Feb 17, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Roger, thanks for the updating. I'm working a bunch right now but got word from some of my crew that this will be taken care of very soon. Thanks for good description of the problem, it helps out a lot for the replacement effort. -K
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Whiskey Peak : Perplexity (5.10d)
By: Killing In The Name Of When: Feb 17, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: ^^^This is funny to me.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Second Pullout : Sun City : Retirement Plan (5.7)
By: Killing In The Name Of When: Feb 17, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Waah, waah, waah. I need more bolts to find the start, my eyes are lazy. I'm not suggesting that you need tampons or anything, but maybe some pink kleenex and preparation H would soothe that hurt butt? This sport is full of people that make jellyfish look hard. Good luck with that.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : First Pullout : Civilization Crags : Evil Empire (5.11)
By: Killing In The Name Of When: Feb 3, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Yeah, it's really too bad you didn't rap-bolt this splitter, Wilder. That really would've been something to see. And I miss that rotten flake, too-I hear all the good climbs in Vegas have rotten, wedged flakes that you have to "micro-crimp" on. Too bad people clean loose stuff off of climbs, ground-up. That's really an ethical boondoggle. Someone call the BLM narc hotline, IMHO. That's something to do if you're bored. Why bother climbing when you can gossip? PS nice work on the toprope. Strong e... more >>
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Sandstone Quarry : The Trophy Wall : Trophy Crack (5.10- V0-1)
By: Killing In The Name Of When: Jan 29, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Fuck yeah, Matt. Fuck yeah.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Icebox Canyon : Bridge Mountain : Northeast Arete (5.6)
By: Killing In The Name Of When: Jan 12, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Careful dat don't rot ya teef, Ye Of Little Couth.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Second Pullout : Meetup Wall : The Pumpkin King (5.10a/b)
By: Killing In The Name Of When: Jan 3, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Is the glue still wet?
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Second Pullout : Meetup Wall : Photo
By: Killing In The Name Of When: Jan 3, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: JEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEZZZZZZZZZZZZUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUSSSSSSSSSSSSS!!!!!
Have you no shame?
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