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View from top of Standard Route on Whitehorse, NH


Member Since: Nov 11, 2010
Last Visit: 13 hours ago
Contact Keyan P


Point Rank: # 4,197
Total Points: 97
Last Year: 26
Last 30 Days: 2
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 277 | Routes 3 | Areas | Photos 7 | Page Improvments | Comments 32 | Posts 85 | Stars 124 | Ratings 26
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: MA : Borderland State Park Easto... : Work Horse (V7)
By: Keyan P When: Aug 4, 2014

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Comments: Hey Max, good to see someone was trying it. I forgot to take credit for moving the tree, I finally took care of it this past winter. Still can't move off the start of hardest button though...


Location: VT : Smugglers Notch
By: Keyan P When: Jul 23, 2014

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Comments: Anyone heard of a climb called "Twilight Army" (v9)? Might also go by "Kyle's Problem". Any info would be appreciated. Thanks!


Location: Rhode Island : Lincoln Woods : The Egg : Chemical (V9+)
By: Keyan P When: Nov 4, 2013

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Comments: Has the consensus grade changed since the break?


Location: NH : Rumney : Orange Crush : Predator (5.13b)
By: Keyan P When: Oct 25, 2013

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Comments: I was trying this a couple weeks ago and found many of the draws on the prow to be in very bad condition. I saw Rajiv wrote a couple years ago that there were steel permas on this, any reason they were taken off?


Location: VT : Bolton Area : Upper West Bolton : Paradox (5.10d)
By: Keyan P When: Oct 6, 2013

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Comments: As of yesterday the bolt just after the crux (next to the first massive jug rest, bolt number 4 I think) does not have its hanger attached, after looking around a bit I found it laying on the big slab at the start of the climb. It was clear that it was placed there by someone because the washer was present also. I wasn't sure why it was removed so I did not attempt to put it back on.

On a related note, several of the hangars on Fresh Meat are very very loose, including the last bolt with prote... more >>


Location: VT : Smugglers Notch : Boulders Behind the Main Pa... : Dojo (V4)
By: Keyan P When: Sep 27, 2013

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Comments: This problem has been climbed previously (you can tell from all the chalk on the rail) and is actually called "Dojo". The stand start from the rail is V4, the sit goes at V8 and starts just down and right of the rail on bad sidepulls and adds one very big (and hard) deadpoint move to the rail. You can actually see the chalked up holds for the sit start in the photo above.

Not sure about the FA, maybe someone else can chime in.


Location: VT : Smugglers Notch : Boulders Behind the Main Pa... : Bejesus (V4-5)
By: Keyan P When: Jul 29, 2013

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Comments: I'm having trouble finding this, does anyone have better directions?


Location: MA : Joe's Rock : The Wave (5.5)
By: Keyan P When: Apr 8, 2013

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Comments: I did not find any bolts, but there are two good trees to set up a toprope from. A fun route with a nice view up top. Watch out for broken glass though, it is all over the route!


Location: MA : Joe's Rock : Smokey Joe's Cafe (5.10b)
By: Keyan P When: Apr 8, 2013

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Comments: As of 4/6/13 there are still a few bolts (in good condition) to lead the route. There is also a two bolt anchor (poor condition).


Location: MA : Joe's Rock : Standard Route (5.8)
By: Keyan P When: Apr 8, 2013

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Comments: As of 4/6/13 this route has one good bolt at the anchor and a good crack for pro to set up the toprope. I didn't have any gear with me, but I'm guessing it could take anywhere from a #0.5-#1 Camalot.


Location: MA : Joe's Rock : Cool Route (5.8)
By: Keyan P When: Apr 8, 2013

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Comments: As of 4/6/13 this has two bolts (in good condition) for an anchor, although actually getting to the bolts requires some dicey unroped traversing at the top of the cliff.


Location: MA : Borderland State Park Easto... : Hardest Button to Button (V9)
By: Keyan P When: Dec 22, 2012

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Comments: Just went by the Button Boulder today and a medium-sized tree has fallen directly in front of the steep side. This makes it impossible to climb Hardest Button or Work Horse. I am no longer local or else I would try to remove it. If you find yourself headed out there, be sure to bring an axe.


Location: VT : Bolton Area : Upper West Bolton : Paradox (5.10d)
By: Keyan P When: Nov 27, 2012

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Comments: Solid 11a. 10d would be a sandbag for sure, but this is Vermont...


Location: VT : Smugglers Notch : Top of the Notch Boulders : Boomerang (V6)
By: Keyan P When: Oct 15, 2012

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Comments: I was under the impression that this problem started with a large sideways dyno to the left followed by a heel hook. The climber in the photo is definitely doing something else. Is the way I am thinking a variation?


Location: NH : Rumney : Waimea : Technosurfing (5.12b)
By: Keyan P When: Sep 17, 2012

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Comments: spoiler Previously I've matched at the big ledge, clipped, then went up and right to a very chalked up good crimp and tried to stand up on the big ledge. It wasn't working... I'll try this beta. Thanks Mark and Lee.


Location: NH : Rumney : Waimea : Technosurfing (5.12b)
By: Keyan P When: Sep 12, 2012

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Comments: Anyone have beta for the crux bulge? I can't seem to figure it out/run into someone doing it...


Location: VT : Bolton Area : Upper West Bolton : Dr. Dias (5.9+)
By: Keyan P When: Sep 7, 2012

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Comments: Very fun route! Secure with good simple gear at the bottom and upper cracks, and a well bolted face traverse up high. Doesn't get enough love.

For gear I used, roughly in order: #3, #2, #0.75, some nuts, yellow mastercam


Location: VT : Winooski Cut
By: Keyan P When: Jul 18, 2012

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Comments: They sure are, unless there used to be an anchor... (we just sling the tree up top). Thankfully I have never taken a fall on them, but I have bounce tested them and they seem solid.


Location: NH : Whitehorse Ledge : 2. South Buttress : Atlantis Area : Inferno (5.8)
By: Keyan P When: Jun 26, 2012

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Comments: Found it to be more like 3 pitches, as P2 is just walking climbers left to a belay tree. Great climbing for the whole route, but P1 was most definitely R, fairly secure face climbing with thinly spaced gear and big fall potential until reaching the Atlantis corner.


Location: VT : Winooski Cut
By: Keyan P When: Apr 21, 2012

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Comments: The climbs over the railroad tracks are all short and chossy, but good for getting a quick fix. If one were to look around they might even find a nice 5.8 sport route around nearby....


Location: VT : Bolton Area : Upper West Bolton : Captain's Crack (5.7 PG13)
By: Keyan P When: Apr 21, 2012

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Comments: I climbed this again and took a wrench, but it was not the right size. Both anchor bolts can be loosened by hand.


Location: VT : Bolton Area : 82 Crag : Block Party (5.10a)
By: Keyan P When: Apr 15, 2012

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Comments: I rapped with a 60m and the rope was ~5ft short of the ledge, I was able to reach the bolted anchor and clip into it with a PAS and then just hop down. I would agree that a #3 is optional but I was very glad I brought it as it felt much safer.


Location: VT : Bolton Area : Upper West Bolton
By: Keyan P When: Mar 20, 2012

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Comments: Does anyone know about the bolted route in between the rose and the thorn? I did not notice it before, what does it go at and when was it put up?


Location: VT : Bolton Area : Carcass Crag
By: Keyan P When: Sep 21, 2011

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Comments: I'm having trouble finding this crag, once on the trail that starts on the left side of the parking lot do you bear right towards the quarry routes? Or do you continue towards the left?


Location: VT : Bolton Area : Upper West Bolton : Unknown (5.10a PG13)
By: Keyan P When: Sep 20, 2011

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Comments: An awkward climb that lacks good flow. Found the bolts to be well placed certainly not PG-13, wouldn't even call the top angled slab runout.


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