Contributed Comments |
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Location: MA : Joe's Rock : The Wave (5.5)
By: Keyan P When: Apr 8, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: I did not find any bolts, but there are two good trees to set up a toprope from. A fun route with a nice view up top. Watch out for broken glass though, it is all over the route!
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Location: MA : Joe's Rock : Smokey Joe's Cafe (5.10b)
By: Keyan P When: Apr 8, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: As of 4/6/13 there are still a few bolts (in good condition) to lead the route. There is also a two bolt anchor (poor condition).
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Location: MA : Joe's Rock : Standard Route (5.8)
By: Keyan P When: Apr 8, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: As of 4/6/13 this route has one good bolt at the anchor and a good crack for pro to set up the toprope. I didn't have any gear with me, but I'm guessing it could take anywhere from a #0.5-#1 Camalot.
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Location: MA : Joe's Rock : Cool Route (5.8)
By: Keyan P When: Apr 8, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: As of 4/6/13 this has two bolts (in good condition) for an anchor, although actually getting to the bolts requires some dicey unroped traversing at the top of the cliff.
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Location: MA : Borderland State Park Easto... : Hardest Button to Button (V9)
By: Keyan P When: Dec 22, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Just went by the Button Boulder today and a medium-sized tree has fallen directly in front of the steep side. This makes it impossible to climb Hardest Button or Work Horse. I am no longer local or else I would try to remove it. If you find yourself headed out there, be sure to bring an axe.
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Location: MA : Borderland State Park Easto... : Thug (V5)
By: Keyan P When: Dec 22, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Felt closer to V3+/V4- to me, definitely not as hard as the other V5s in the park. At least a couple pads would be nice due to the not so great landing.
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Location: VT : Bolton Area : Upper West Bolton : Paradox (5.10d)
By: Keyan P When: Nov 27, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Solid 11a. 10d would be a sandbag for sure, but this is Vermont...
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Location: VT : Smugglers Notch : Top of the Notch Boulders : Boomerang (V6)
By: Keyan P When: Oct 15, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I was under the impression that this problem started with a large sideways dyno to the left followed by a heel hook. The climber in the photo is definitely doing something else. Is the way I am thinking a variation?
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Location: NH : Rumney : Waimea : Technosurfing (5.12b)
By: Keyan P When: Sep 17, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: spoiler Previously I've matched at the big ledge, clipped, then went up and right to a very chalked up good crimp and tried to stand up on the big ledge. It wasn't working... I'll try this beta. Thanks Mark and Lee.
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Location: NH : Rumney : Waimea : Technosurfing (5.12b)
By: Keyan P When: Sep 12, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Anyone have beta for the crux bulge? I can't seem to figure it out/run into someone doing it...
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Location: VT : Bolton Area : Upper West Bolton : Dr. Dias (5.9+)
By: Keyan P When: Sep 7, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Very fun route! Secure with good simple gear at the bottom and upper cracks, and a well bolted face traverse up high. Doesn't get enough love.
For gear I used, roughly in order: #3, #2, #0.75, some nuts, yellow mastercam
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Location: VT : Winooski Cut
By: Keyan P When: Jul 18, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: They sure are, unless there used to be an anchor... (we just sling the tree up top). Thankfully I have never taken a fall on them, but I have bounce tested them and they seem solid.
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Location: NH : Whitehorse Ledge : 2. South Buttress : Atlantis Area : Inferno (5.8)
By: Keyan P When: Jun 26, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Found it to be more like 3 pitches, as P2 is just walking climbers left to a belay tree. Great climbing for the whole route, but P1 was most definitely R, fairly secure face climbing with thinly spaced gear and big fall potential until reaching the Atlantis corner.
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Location: VT : Winooski Cut
By: Keyan P When: Apr 21, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: The climbs over the railroad tracks are all short and chossy, but good for getting a quick fix. If one were to look around they might even find a nice 5.8 sport route around nearby....
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Location: VT : Bolton Area : Upper West Bolton : Captain's Crack (5.7 PG13)
By: Keyan P When: Apr 21, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I climbed this again and took a wrench, but it was not the right size. Both anchor bolts can be loosened by hand.
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Location: VT : Bolton Area : 82 Crag : Block Party (5.10a)
By: Keyan P When: Apr 15, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I rapped with a 60m and the rope was ~5ft short of the ledge, I was able to reach the bolted anchor and clip into it with a PAS and then just hop down. I would agree that a #3 is optional but I was very glad I brought it as it felt much safer.
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Location: VT : Bolton Area : Upper West Bolton
By: Keyan P When: Mar 20, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Does anyone know about the bolted route in between the rose and the thorn? I did not notice it before, what does it go at and when was it put up?
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Location: VT : Bolton Area : Carcass Crag
By: Keyan P When: Sep 21, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: I'm having trouble finding this crag, once on the trail that starts on the left side of the parking lot do you bear right towards the quarry routes? Or do you continue towards the left?
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