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Member Since: Jun 16, 2005
Last Visit: 1 day ago
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 164 | Routes 1 | Areas | Photos | Page Improvments | Comments 97 | Posts | Stars 45 | Ratings 21
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Cornerstone : Victory in de Feet (5.11b)
By: Kevin Neilson When: Jun 28, 2014

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Comments: There's no way this gets a bomb. The crux is interesting and makes the short climb worthwhile. You guys are too hard on BC.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Cornerstone : Repo Man (5.12a)
By: Kevin Neilson When: Jun 28, 2014

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Comments: I'm with Bubbster on this one. He usually downgrades everything, so if he says the move is 5.12, it surely is at least that. I've tried this several times, and I can't even figure out what the move is supposed to be, and like Tony says, it's not just a single move but a couple of hard moves until you get to a jug. The feet just seem non-existent. It's bolted close enough to French-free through the crux if you finally give in.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Happy Hour Crag : Teetotaler (5.11a)
By: Kevin Neilson When: Jun 4, 2014

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Comments: I thought the crux was a harder than 11a. It would be a difficult onsight as the holds aren't visible from your position as you enter the crux. Definitely take some small cams.


Location: CO : Boulder : Upper Dream Canyon : Lost Angel : The Vaino Step (5.12a)
By: Kevin Neilson When: Oct 14, 2012

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Comments: What the heck? I've always wanted to try the first move on this, so I finally put a stick clip on the first bolt today, and there doesn't seem to be a move at all. If anybody has beta, let me know. This seems like it must be much harder than 12a unless I'm missing something obvious.


Location: CO : South Platte : Pine Area : Sport Rock
By: Kevin Neilson When: Sep 6, 2012

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Comments: Richard, thanks for posting the great beta.

Edit: I haven't climbed here yet, but I drove by the wall today, and it looks like it faces almost directly SW and is pretty high, so it gets late sun.


Location: CO : South Platte : Pine Area : Sport Rock
By: Kevin Neilson When: Sep 4, 2012

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Comments: I was just fly-fishing across the road from this crag a couple of days ago and looked up to see that nice face. I was thinking about how there could be some nice lines up there when suddenly the sun glinted off some bolts for a moment, so I came here to look it up. Too bad; it sounds like it's off-limits. Well, I think the creek across the street is public at that point, so you can catch a couple of brown trout, if nothing else. Just in case, is there any more detailed beta anywher... more >>


Location: CO : Denver South : Castlewood Canyon SP : The Dungeon
By: Kevin Neilson When: Jul 26, 2012

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Comments: Helm Hammerhand, near the left (N) end: Loc: 39˚21.015'N 104˚45.525'W
Lichen the Old Country, near the right (S) end: Loc: 39˚20.983'N 104˚45.566'W Alt:6540'

The most reliable and easiest (though maybe not the shortest) way to get to the Dungeon is to park by the homestead ruins (the first lot encountered when entering from the north) and take the trail which leads across the bridge and up to the eastern rim.... more >>


Location: CO : Denver South : Castlewood Canyon SP : The Dungeon : Helm Hammerhand (5.10a)
By: Kevin Neilson When: Jul 26, 2012

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Comments: Loc: 39вк21.015'N 104вк45.525'W.
goo.gl/maps/dTNN.


Location: CO : Empire : Beaver Beach
By: Kevin Neilson When: Jun 17, 2012

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Comments: Getting there: there is now a log bridge for easy access. Park in the lot described in the main description. Walk a few hundred feet down (south) and east (downstream) to reach the log bridge. It's a single log with hand ropes for balance. The wall is just a bit east (downstream) of the bridge. You'll approach the rightmost route first, so I've listed the routes R->L:
Something Else, 5.11
Ambiance, 5.11
Go Juice, 5.11+
Routes Don't Grow On Trees, 5.10c/d PG-13
The Drill Has Go... more >>


Location: CO : Denver South : Castlewood Canyon SP : The Dungeon : Where The Wild Things Are (5.11d)
By: Kevin Neilson When: Jun 10, 2012

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Comments: Great route. The initial roof pull is fun and burly but with good hands, and it is probably only 5.10 in difficulty. Some of the finger pockets are sharp, but I didn't need any tape or get any flappers. I'm still trying to figure out the best sequence--at the top, there are lines on the left and the right.
Loc: 39˚20.993'N 104˚45.562'W Alt:6570'
goo.gl/maps/8Bhcb


Location: CO : Denver South : Castlewood Canyon SP : The Dungeon : Lichen the Old County (5.10d)
By: Kevin Neilson When: Jun 10, 2012

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Comments: This route is at almost at the far right end of The Dungeon. It's right of "Where the Wild Things Are" and left of "Stocking Stuffer". It is a bit overbolted and so covered in lichen that it looks as if it has never been climbed since the FA. It is worth doing, though, and has a challenging crux. The move right off the ground can be a little challenging.
Loc: 39˚20.983'N 104˚45.566'W Alt:6540' goo.gl/maps/l0hL2


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Stepping Stones : Magie Noire (5.11b/c)
By: Kevin Neilson When: May 21, 2012

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Comments: Fun moves. I found this easier than the 5.11s to the left (Turkey Neck Direct and El Gallito). Make sure to avoid the seemingly out-of-place bolt to the left--this bolt is for the Warlock Pincers / Pinche Guey linkup. The upper half of the route is shared with Warlock Pincers. I thought the rock quality was good.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Stepping Stones : Unknown variation (5.10-)
By: Kevin Neilson When: May 21, 2012

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Comments: Short, but interesting. There are several steep slopey moves.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Stepping Stones : El Gallito (5.11)
By: Kevin Neilson When: May 5, 2012

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Comments: Great route. The best part is the super-stem to move right along the bolt line. The crux is hanging on to one of the slopers at the top to clip the anchors. I chose the sloper off to the right.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Stepping Stones : Turkey Neck Direct (5.11+)
By: Kevin Neilson When: May 5, 2012

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Comments: This is a good route, but it is harder than it looks from the bottom. The middle section lacks positive holds. At the first roof, I did go a little right to get a ticked sidepull to be able to stand. Getting through the last roof to the turkey neck is the crux. Unfortunately, my only beta is "use your 6'6" wingspan to reach past the terrible slopers and get your fingertips on the turkey neck."


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Avalon : Second Tier : ... : Flashpoint (5.11a)
By: Kevin Neilson When: Oct 3, 2011

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Comments: Not a bad route, if you don't mind climbing a long 5.7 to do a very short 5.11a. It must get no traffic, because I had to smear on some lichen. I rappelled from the top to the ground with (what I belive was) a 60m. But there are two other sets of anchors on the way down.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Avalon : Third Tier : ... : Knight of Swords (5.10c)
By: Kevin Neilson When: Oct 3, 2011

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Comments: The block behind is in no way part of the route. Thus it has been decreed. Nor is the tree on the route, nor is anything on the route that is not on the face. I agree with the Tony B, the Bubbster, in that the route is 10d/11a and the crux is the second bolt. The block at the top is attached only with an amalgam of dirt and lichen, so don't grab it. To get to the second bolt, I recommend the beta from my partner, which is to layback on the left-facing flake at the bottom and work the feet u... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Security Risk Massif : Higher Security Risk : Cold Shot (5.11a)
By: Kevin Neilson When: Aug 17, 2011

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Comments: 5.11a might be a slightly sandbagged grade for this route. Traverse right just after the second bolt to get to the right-hand crack. There are some nice moves on this route, with a lot of crimpers and at least one finger-sized slot.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Security Risk Massif : Lower Security Risk : Prism (5.9)
By: Kevin Neilson When: Aug 17, 2011

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Comments: The bottom of the route looks grungy, but I'd say the rock is solid and takes pretty good gear. I used Aliens at the bottom and bomber large cams at the top and got in a couple of nuts. I think 5.9 is a good rating, and I thought the pro was good. This route and Security Risk combine for a nice morning of trad, though one shouldn't leave without getting on at least one of the stellar sport routes.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Bell Buttress Massif : The Patio : Carrying Futons (5.11c)
By: Kevin Neilson When: Aug 3, 2011

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Comments: I thought this was a great (albeit short) route, and I'm psyched to go back for the redpoint. I stick-clipped #1. There is usually a suitable stick at the base for this purpose. The key (BETA!) for me was finding the left kneebar that allowed me to clip #2. Without that, I get too pumped trying to clip #2. You can rest on the kneebar for a second after clipping and proceed.


Location: CO : South Platte : Devil's Head : The Starcastle
By: Kevin Neilson When: Jul 31, 2011

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Comments: StarCastle is a prog-rock band from the late '70s that sounds remarkably like "Yes". The rock formation has similarities to the castle on the cover of their "Citadel" album, which is probably how the name was derived. All of the route names (except Pig's Nose) are songs by the band. Go check out the music. "Elliptical Seasons" is a good tune that definitely sounds like '70s prog rock.

I really enjoy this crag and since it faces almost due east and Headstone almost due west, you can just jum... more >>


Location: CO : South Platte : Devil's Head : Hole in the Wall : Protege (5.11d)
By: Kevin Neilson When: Jul 30, 2011

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Comments: Super route. It felt a little easier than a typical Devil's Head 11d. This wall only gets sun at the end of the day.


Location: CO : South Platte : Devil's Head : Private Idaho : Hidden Treasure (5.11b)
By: Kevin Neilson When: Jul 30, 2011

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Comments: This is a really nice climb and worth the trouble to access it. It is in the shade in the morning. It's pretty sustained and seems to have many bulges, increasing the pump factor. Even though it's one of the oldest routes at Devil's Head, it gets little traffic, so it's still full of lichen and doesn't yet have all the loose rock cleaned off. This would be a good spot for wine and the lady friend, as Richard suggests.


Location: CO : South Platte : Devil's Head : Private Idaho
By: Kevin Neilson When: Jul 30, 2011

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Comments: This area is hard to access, but it's worth it--it's just a nice spot and the two sport climbs are stellar. We got in by rappelling from the top of pitch 1 of Remote Control. (Watch for rope snags when you pull!) You can't get back out that way, though. You can get in and out from the anchors of Dave's Dilemma, but be aware that those anchors are in a spot which is a bit scary to walk to. It's best to set up a short belay to get somebody to the anchors from the top.


Location: CO : South Platte : Devil's Head : The Headstone : Remote Control (5.10a)
By: Kevin Neilson When: Jul 30, 2011

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Comments: Great route. Bolts are a bit sparse on the slab, but the 10a rating is appropriate. You could actually link up both pitches with a 70m rope, but the ledge at the top of the first pitch is the most comfortable spot from which to belay. (The end of the first pitch is at the second set of anchors; the first set is for rappelling.) The upper pitch has a couple of somewhat runout spots, and a couple of bolts that are properly positioned for a 6'7" climber. From the top of the first pit... more >>


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