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Member Since: Aug 1, 2010
Last Visit: 12 hours ago
Contact Kevin Kent


Point Rank: # 3,315
Total Points: 129
Last Year: 77
Last 30 Days: 33
6 Compliments
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Areas are worth 15
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Contributions


All (75) | Routes (4) | Areas | Photos (13) | Comments (24) | Posts (24) | Stars (10) | Ratings

Contributed Comments

 

Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Cliffs of Insanity : The Iron Lady Tower (5.7 C1)
By: Kevin Kent When: Mar 23, 2014

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Comments: The first pitch is easy and the 2nd is indeed a bolt ladder but of 14 or so protection bolts only 2 have hangers. The rest require rivet hangers or stoppers with a cable that can be slid down.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : The Bridger Jacks : Hoop Dancer (5.11 X)
By: Kevin Kent When: Mar 23, 2014

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Comments: Just to clarify the above comment, the third rap indeed has good bolts but still has equalized tat instead of chain.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Way Rambo : Rochambeau (5.9)
By: Kevin Kent When: Mar 23, 2014

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Comments: Climbed the 2nd pitch of this (5.11) and took it to the rim. I would recommend bringing a #4 and #5 (or maybe a #6 instead?) for the 10 feet of wide slot (don't worry there are some face holds, so no heinous offwidthing required) and a blue tcu for right after. Most of the 2nd pitch is quite good but it was a bit sandy when I did it. I continued to the top and belayed off a juniper in one monster pitch that included pretty easy but tiring groveling up poor rock at the rim. It w... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : The Wall : The Judge (5.12-)
By: Kevin Kent When: Feb 25, 2014

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Comments: This route is awesome and from what I can tell is basically the poor man's Air Swedin.


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Phoenix Areas : Pinnacle Peak : Pinnacle Peak : Shalaylay Direct (5.11c)
By: Kevin Kent When: Feb 17, 2014

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Comments: Climbed this today and took a few forceful falls onto the rusty 1/4" bolt right above the belay, so I guess it's good, but it really should be replaced in my opinion (especially when the rest of the climb has nice half inchers). The rest of the route was very fun, painful on the fingertips though. Reminded me a lot of EBGB in josh, but thankfully not as scary.


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Prescott Areas : Granite Mountain
By: Kevin Kent When: Jan 26, 2014

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Comments: Went here for the first time this weekend and it was awesome. A little beta on the parking/gates locking though.

The sign at the trailhead says the gates lock at 5pm (which had been changed to 7pm when we got back!). Not knowing if our car would be locked in overnight we asked a local who was about to go on a hike who said they were strict about locking the gate and that we should be out by 5.
So our day was a little shorter that originally planned, but as we were driving out around 4, we saw ... more >>


Location: WY : Devil's Tower : Durrance Approach : Durrance (5.7) : Photo
By: Kevin Kent When: Jan 26, 2014

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Comments: I think about mid or upper 20s. No wind though.


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Oak Creek Canyon : The Waterfall : The Left Wall : Fool's Progress (5.11-)
By: Kevin Kent When: Jan 5, 2014

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Comments: It only took 22 years but this is now equipped with a modern 2 bolt anchor (including fixed biners, so as with all climbs at the waterfall please leave them in place).


Location: UT : Zion National Park : Spearhead : Iron Messiah (5.10)
By: Kevin Kent When: Nov 17, 2013

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Comments: If you opt for the run out face finish to the left on the last pitch, beware that it felt like very insecure 5.8 X to me. If you link the last 2 pitches move your belay (walk) right up the bushy ramp to the base of the short OW pitch or you will have horrible rope drag on the run out slab finish.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Castle Valley : The Rectory : Fine Jade (5.11a)
By: Kevin Kent When: Nov 12, 2013

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Comments: After climbing this on beautiful day in November 2013 I returned to my pack I had left at the base to find a hole chewed in the top of it and through a sealed ziplock bag inside to some homemade granola bars.

I had never heard of anyone having a problem with varmint chewing into packs in the desert, so I thought I'd leave a little warning for others.



Location: UT : Moab Area : Castle Valley : Castleton Tower : North Face (5.11b)
By: Kevin Kent When: Nov 12, 2013

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Comments: The gear beta in the description is pretty spot on. Double rack from blue or purple tcu to #3 C4, with a third #3. All these posts about 10 #3s and huge cams are completely ridiculous provided you're competent on desert 5.11 and know how to walk a cam. Also, there were 2 fixed pieces on the first pitch as of November 2013. I never placed my 3rd #3 because I was saving it in case I needed it for the upper part of the pitch but after about 2/3 of the way up there is nowhere... more >>


Location: MT : Blodgett Canyon : The Prow : Timebinder (5.11b)
By: Kevin Kent When: Sep 6, 2013

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Comments: Nick, almost all the routes in Blodgett get all day sun. Cool fall days are nice, but a little wind and clouds go a long way for hotter days.

A single 70m won't cut it for rapping unless you leave gear, but I would highly recommend walking off. It's awesome to top out the formation and the walk off is easy, scenic, and can be quicker than rapping, especially if it's windy when it's easy to get ropes stuck.

And Ian, you want to traverse RIGHT, not left at the top of pitch 8 to get to an alter... more >>


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Oak Creek Canyon : The Waterfall : The Left Wall : Most Excellent (5.11)
By: Kevin Kent When: Sep 3, 2013

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Comments: This thing is hard and quite insecure. I didn't have any but I think Lowe Balls would probably work better than RPs, but you may be better off just gunning it from the mini ledge to the anchors.


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Oak Creek Canyon : The Waterfall : The Right Wall : No Utopia (5.11+ PG13)
By: Kevin Kent When: Sep 2, 2013

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Comments: This route is awesome and protects very well. With rope stretch, a 60 meter rope will just get you back to the pointed boulder at the base.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Texas Canyon
By: Kevin Kent When: Aug 12, 2013

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Comments: I was passing by here in early august and had some time to kill so I drove my city truck ('01 factory chevy s10 with extended cab/6' bed) to the ruins 1/4 mile into Arch canyon and camped there. The next morning I was planning on mountain biking at least to the junction with Texas canyon and scoping out the severity of the 4x4ing and if one can bike all the way to Texas Tower. Because I had some time commitments and I was sketched out by the dark clouds, I turned around after an hour and a half,... more >>


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Oak Creek Canyon : Pumphouse Wash : The Ultimates/Mexican Pocke... : Ultimate OW (5.11- PG13)
By: Kevin Kent When: May 13, 2013

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Comments: Wear old clothing. Almost no actual OW technique required, 99% chimneying.


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Oak Creek Canyon : Pumphouse Wash : The Ultimates/Mexican Pocke... : Ultimate Dihedral (5.10+)
By: Kevin Kent When: May 13, 2013

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Comments: This thing is closer to 100' long. A 60m rope works just fine. Pretty hard for 10+ too.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Selfish Wall : Unknown 5.10+ (5.10+)
By: Kevin Kent When: Mar 24, 2013

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Comments: I did a super fun new and more direct start to this onsight. Start in the dihedral under the roof below the route. A few thin moves and you get a good stance where you can clip some solid gear (purple and blue tcus) before pulling the roof. I cleaned as much loose rock as I could on lead but there's probably a bit more. This variation clocks in around 11 or 11+. Overall very enjoyable route.


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Oak Creek Canyon : The Doctor's Office & The P...
By: Kevin Kent When: Oct 23, 2012

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Comments: FYI the rap line from the Pharmacy to the Doctor's office has a coreshot in it about 10' below the anchor. I'm not exactly sure why that rope was left there in the first place, other than the coreshot it seems like it's in semi-decent condition.

Also what is the deal with the trash cans?


Location: MT : Kootenai Canyon : First Buttress : 11th Commandment (5.10a)
By: Kevin Kent When: May 10, 2012

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Comments: Did a 2nd pitch on this after noticing there were chain anchors at the top. It's mostly a long hand crack and theoretically could be a good route, but it's quite dirty - lots of lichens and a bit of loose rock.
Probably goes around 5.8+; there are no bolts between the 2 belays.


Location: Frosty Weller : Miscellaneous Desert Shots : Photo
By: Kevin Kent When: Jan 19, 2012

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Comments: Looks awesome. Where is this?


Location: WI : Interstate State Park : Wisconsin Strip : Impossible Crack (5.9 PG13)
By: Kevin Kent When: Jun 26, 2011

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Comments: Seems like old school 5.9. Good route though


Location: WY : Devil's Tower : Durrance Approach : Durrance (5.7)
By: Kevin Kent When: Jan 27, 2011

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Comments: climbed it on january 14th 2011. we got a stern talking from the ranger in the parking lot who tried everything in the book to get us not to climb but there was pretty much no stopping us. (he even said something to the effect of: if you boys get in trouble i aint got no one to come get you till monday at the earliest,(it was friday AM) and by then itll be a body recovery)

never having done the route before, the approach ramp was quite difficult and slippery in the snow. not sure if we followe... more >>


Location: MN : Twin Cities Ice (MSP/STP) : Franklin Street Bridge Ice
By: Kevin Kent When: Dec 20, 2010

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Comments: From what I can tell, this area is in minneapolis, not st. paul, so no permit is required.