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Member Since: Aug 1, 2010
Last Visit: 2 days ago
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Kevin Kent
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Point Rank: # 1,079
Total Points: 624
Last Year: 479
Last 30 Days: 11
22 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 236 | Routes 17 | Areas 3 | Photos 68 | Page Improvements | Comments 69 | Posts 35 | Stars 44 | Ratings
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Sedona Area : Oak Creek Village : Bell Rock / Courthouse Butt... : ... : Bell Rock - Kamps Route (5.8)
By: Kevin Kent When: 3 days ago

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Comments: I actually found this route to be a lot of fun! I took 2 beginners and one non-climber up it and we had a great time. The summit feels more like the top of an actual tower than a lot of other Sedona "towers."
Still missing a few hangers but most of the bolts are unnecessary anyway. I also only placed one piece (.75) and clipped the bolts.
Anchor is solid but could use some nice camouflaged chain instead of the current bright webbing considering that the area could not be more high profile.


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Sedona Area : West Sedona : Dry Creek Road Area : ... : Desert Mule (5.11+)
By: Kevin Kent When: Apr 20, 2015

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Comments: This is definitely an unheralded classic. Beautiful aesthetic tower, awesome hero climbing (especially on the 2nd pitch), and it being totally safe make for a very fun outing! If you're worried about it I didn't think any of the OW was harder than 5.10. The crux top-out on slopers is very solid 11 though!
A little note on the approach, you should be under the tower after about 30 minutes of hiking, it'll be on your right. I would advise starting up the wash that drains directly below the tower,... more >>


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Oak Creek Canyon : *The Waterfall : The Left Wall : Giardia Crack (5.11+)
By: Kevin Kent When: Apr 13, 2015

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Comments: I too have seen multiple people rip the seemingly bomber and obvious .5 before the roof. Maybe add something about that to the route's description JJ?


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Sabbatical Wall : Reincarnation (5.12)
By: Kevin Kent When: Apr 6, 2015

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Comments: This is the best 12- finger crack I've climbed at the creek! Such a cool and surprisingly doable route!
I would advise saving an extra red C3 and about 3 .5s for after the roofs.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Sabbatical Wall : Sabbatical 36 (5.10)
By: Kevin Kent When: Apr 6, 2015

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Comments: 80m rope just barely works!


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Three Tower Buttress
By: Kevin Kent When: Apr 6, 2015

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Comments: Thanks for adding these Jeff! I was just looking for beta on these the other day!


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Oak Creek Canyon : *The Waterfall : The Left Wall : Rising Sun (5.10- PG13)
By: Kevin Kent When: Apr 2, 2015

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Comments: This route was cleaned during the March '15 waterfall cleanup. A lot of the loose blocks down low were removed. There are still some very big ones but after testing them with a big wrecking bar I'm confident they won't be coming off any time soon. Possibly still PG-13 in the easier part down low but definitely a lot safer than it was.


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Sedona Area : Sedona : Church Spires Area : Christianity Spire
By: Kevin Kent When: Apr 1, 2015

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Comments: FA by Joe Brown, Dan McHale and Fred Beckey, via SE corner, April 1969.


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Sedona Area : Oak Creek Village : Oak Creek Spire Area : ... : Photo
By: Kevin Kent When: Mar 12, 2015

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Comments: Damn. Color me impressed!


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Navajolands : Cove Area : Down Tower, South Face (5.9 A1)
By: Kevin Kent When: Mar 11, 2015

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Comments: 23 pitches and 1700'?! The angle in the pictures must be deceiving ;)



Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Williams/ Sycamore Canyon A... : Volunteer Canyon
By: Kevin Kent When: Feb 16, 2015

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Comments: I'm fully in favor of any improvements to the road, but it needs a lot more than a once over with a grader. It needs needs to be raised for flood managemnt and have culverts added which will be a lot more expensive.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : West Stronghold : Sheepshead Area (Southwest) : ... : Absinthe of Mallet (5.9+)
By: Kevin Kent When: Feb 10, 2015

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Comments: For the life of me I can't understand the anchor placement at the top of P4. It's an ok stance but there is huge ledge 20 feet higher (I would recommend belaying here, you can use the bolt and a #3). I suppose it's to facilitate a rappel but even then it's not in the best spot if you ask me.

I didn't do this but I think linking the last 2 slab pitches would be doable with a 70m rope and 15(?) draws (at most 15 feet of very easy simulclimbing for the 2nd) and would avoid the hanging belay ... more >>


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : East Stronghold : Rockfellow Group : ... : Abracadaver (5.11a)
By: Kevin Kent When: Feb 10, 2015

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Comments: Definitely link pitches 2 and 3, it avoids the hanging belay and you'll earn some all important style points. This route is easily doable with a single 60m rope (as long as you don't need to bail!). To get down with one rope locate the rap anchors 30' to the east of and slightly above the top out and do 3 short raps (80-95' each), then scramble down the gully and do a very short walk back to the base of the route.

I agree with the above posts that the OW really isn't that bad (lots of face hol... more >>


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Sedona Area : West Sedona : Coffeepot Rock Area : ... : Authentic Life (5.10 C1 PG13)
By: Kevin Kent When: Feb 3, 2015

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Comments: I found the P1 traverse to be quite fun yet engaging despite the 7 or so bolts; the only gear I placed was a small purple BD nut roughly in the middle of the pitch. Keep a tight belay at the middle because there is a ledge about 12 feet down you could potentially hit if you peel off in the wrong spot.

P3 was quite hard and the rock is very friable. I broke a few footholds off and there are 2 or 3 crucial patina faceholds that seemed quite solid but if they break this will become much... more >>


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Oak Creek Canyon : *The Waterfall : The Double Clutching Wall : Block Party (5.11)
By: Kevin Kent When: Jan 27, 2015

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Comments: "Sick sports action at its finest fellas batter up and get ready to woof with the big dogs thats what im talkin about woof woof." Best MP description ever?

Anyway this is a cool line. Going up the blocks at the start is quite disconcerting as you pretty much have to pull out on them, but I guess they're solid (at least until the next earthquake?)

You'll probably want a few more pieces than doubles of .3-.75; singles of small and a 1 and 2 would be good from what I remember.


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Oak Creek Canyon : *The Waterfall : The Double Clutching Wall : Terminal Mocha (5.11)
By: Kevin Kent When: Jan 27, 2015

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Comments: Really enjoyable. The finish is sweet! You could definitely go up the ring locks splitter and still finish on this (instead of going left, as per checkin' the oil)


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Sedona Area : Oak Creek Village : Oak Creek Spire Area : ... : "Southern Revival" South Fa... (5.12)
By: Kevin Kent When: Jan 24, 2015

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Comments: Best tower route in Sedona?!?! Half the pitches are overhanging! We did the 2nd ascent and I only got sand in my eyes once! Thanks for the work Jeff and Zach, especially with all of the good hardware!
The crux is a monster, but you have a bolt right in your face!
A few small runouts you should be ready for, mainly the 8' of unprotected OW starting the 2nd pitch (too big for a #6?) and the "grip tape" slopers finish at the end of the crux pitch. There's a bolt at the start but like the desc... more >>


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Sedona Area : Oak Creek Village : Oak Creek Spire Area : ... : Photo
By: Kevin Kent When: Jan 24, 2015

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Comments: Definitely didn't realize how overhanging this route is!!


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Sedona Area : Sedona : Church Spires Area : ... : Good Friday, North Tower We... (5.11+)
By: Kevin Kent When: Jan 19, 2015

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Comments: This route is awesome and needs some love! The third pitch roof is awkward as all hell but has really good rock (as does the entire route except the easy top out). I didn't send the whole pitch but I freed the entire roof section after a few tries and 11+ may be a bit conservative ;)


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Sedona Area : Sedona : Church Spires Area : ... : Blast from the Past (Isaac'... (5.10)
By: Kevin Kent When: Jan 19, 2015

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Comments: Some gear beta for those who enjoy light packs: you can safely do this route with no #3 or #4 C4 camalots. Just bring triples of blue and purple TCUs to put in the convenient tips crack. Also if you can get solid fist jams through the crux you might be a gorilla. Pretty rough for 5.10.


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Sedona Area : Sedona : Church Spires Area : ... : Pussy Mind Trick (PMT) (5.12-)
By: Kevin Kent When: Jan 4, 2015

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Comments: I'm weak but I thought P3 was a classic sandbag, however my partners had no trouble following. P1 is as good as it gets! Figuring out the techy arete pulls and intricate footwork is a blast!

This should go without saying but... absolutely do not do this route after a rain, there are a ton of small holds ready to break off, especially on P3.

Climbed it in early January when it was sunny, no wind, and a high of 52 and it was perfect in a t-shirt (or shirtless)!

Approaching from the church via... more >>


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Oak Creek Canyon : *Pumphouse Wash : The Ultimates/Mexican Pocke... : The Lorax (5.9+)
By: Kevin Kent When: Dec 1, 2014

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Comments: 5 star description!


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Election Wall
By: Kevin Kent When: Dec 1, 2014

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Comments: A very cool wall! Almost every route needs chain though so consider bringing some.
The approach is quite nice and shorter than going to The Wall!

Does anyone know anything about the sweet fingercrack to the right of Spiderpig? looks fun and hard!


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Election Wall : Imagine (5.11+)
By: Kevin Kent When: Dec 1, 2014

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Comments: I made a half-assed attempt at the direct start but was too scared (I tried to place sliders but they ripped when I hand tested them). Next I did the 100% Yourself start and went up to where I could get a solid purple TCU with a sling and tried traversing at a few different heights (maybe 15, 10 and 5 feet up. I broke a bunch of holds, kept backing off, and finally blew it trying a very low traverse. In the end I swung over to about 10 feet up and just started climbing from there and did the re... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Sparks Wall : Jupiter Crack (5.11)
By: Kevin Kent When: Nov 30, 2014

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Comments: This route is definitely awesome!
Not even close to the listed 130'. 70m rope was ample and I imagine a 60m would work.
Also the #6 didn't fit super well at the end, you might want to bring a 2nd #5 instead.


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