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Member Since: Aug 1, 2010
Last Visit: 6 hours ago
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Point Rank: # 2,132
Total Points: 267
Last Year: 184
Last 30 Days: 39
16 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 125 | Routes 8 | Areas 1 | Photos 27 | Page Improvements | Comments 40 | Posts 27 | Stars 22 | Ratings
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Pistol Whipped : Unnamed 5.11 at top of trai... (5.11)
By: Kevin Kent When: 8 hours ago

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Comments: Pretty sure FA is Hong, judging by the bolts at the top. There is also one newer bolt with chain.

Anyway this route is sweet and well protected. I opted to layback the OW at the start which worked quite well. Found it to be mega pumpy in the middle, which is sustained off-fingers in a corner.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Pistol Whipped : Fairy Tales (5.13-)
By: Kevin Kent When: 8 hours ago

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Comments: If you're like me and challenged when it comes to alien sizes I was able to get orange(tight) and yellow TCUs and .3s and .4s.

This climb is a lot like Sig Sauer but without all the nice footholds.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Sparks Wall : The LGS (Last Great Splitte... (5.12+)
By: Kevin Kent When: 9 hours ago

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Comments: Nice work Chris, I saw this route this weekend. I was wondering about a 2nd pitch and the large death blocks above. If anyone ever cleans them it will be quite the trundle!


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Selfish Wall : (Unknown) (5.9)
By: Kevin Kent When: 5 days ago

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Comments: Funny story about this route. A few years back I met keen-as lad from Oz in the creek and belayed him on this route. I can't remember the exact sequence of events but at the alcove where you get a rest he managed to drop a large cam (maybe a #5?) down the crack. It was hopelessly far out of reach and we had to abandon it. Later he told me he bought a large pole of some sort in Moab, taped a bent coathanger to it, and fished the cam out from above.


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Williams/ Sycamore Canyon A... : Volunteer Canyon : North Side : ... : Bertilak (5.11)
By: Kevin Kent When: Oct 13, 2014

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Comments: Overhanging splitter finger crack through the headwall at very honest 5.11?!

This route is so money and it doesn't even know it.


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Oak Creek Canyon : The Waterfall : The Left Wall : The Tyrant (5.11+)
By: Kevin Kent When: Oct 4, 2014

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Comments: This route is awesome! The top is possibly the best splitter I've climbed at the waterfall. Unfortunately it's a bit tarnished by the ledges in the middle.
Also, exercise caution when casting off onto the headwall because there will be a large ledge right below you. I found a #0 purple tcu to be perfect for protecting this part.


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Williams/ Sycamore Canyon A... : Volunteer Canyon : South Side : ... : Cast Iron (5.10+)
By: Kevin Kent When: Oct 2, 2014

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Comments: Thank you for setting my mind at ease. I was thinking there used to be more routes on this page but assumed I was just losing my mind. Smart thinking using the wayback machine to recover them!

Who is ckirk anyway? Is that supposed to be a Star Trek joke?


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : The Fin : The Dorsal Fin (5.10d)
By: Kevin Kent When: Sep 8, 2014

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Comments: I climbed this in mid-August and accidentally fixed a nut right above the bolt on the top of pitch 3 (or top of pitch 2 as many people do it). Some enterprising individual with more finesse than me could probably booty it but it might be nice to just leave it to help supplement the good bolt at the belay.


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Cruel Shoes (5.10d)
By: Kevin Kent When: Aug 29, 2014

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Comments: I would suggest bringing a long sling or linking a few together to some pro you get high in the initial crack on P2 before starting the traverse. Excellent route!


Location: ID : The Sawtooth Range : The Elephant's Perch : Myopia (5.11a)
By: Kevin Kent When: Aug 29, 2014

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Comments: This climb is definitely excellent but I don't quite agree with all the "best climb ever" talk. Double rack was fine. Don't think we used the RPs we brought. Absolutely link pitch 4/5. I don't understand why that section is even called 2 pitches.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Cliffs of Insanity : The Iron Lady Tower (5.7 C1)
By: Kevin Kent When: Jul 17, 2014

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Comments: Thanks for the trailwork DF. And yes, there are 12 or so bolts without hangers, you could definitely do it with less and leapfrog. I think I had about 8 BD nuts that I used as rivet hangers. I recall the anchors being good bolts but a nest of tat.


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Flagstaff Crags : Mt. Elden : Elysian Buttress
By: Kevin Kent When: Jun 11, 2014

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Comments: I think FS 9180 has gotten a lot worse since the floods in the summer of '13. Unless you have a really burly vehicle I would suggest parking at Little Elden Springs and jumping right on the AZ trail (heading south). It probably only adds 15 minutes of hiking and the approach option 1 here will take at least 10 minutes of driving.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : 4X4 : Unnamed 5.11 (38) - twin cr... (5.11+)
By: Kevin Kent When: Jun 3, 2014

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Comments: Sweet route! Did the left start which would be an awesome route all on it's own. You might want to save a .75 for the top.


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Oak Creek Canyon : The Waterfall : The Right Wall : Turn Down, For What? (5.13a/b)
By: Kevin Kent When: Jun 2, 2014

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Comments: I think this wins for funniest route name at the waterfall.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Cliffs of Insanity : Wiggins II (5.12-)
By: Kevin Kent When: May 29, 2014

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Comments: In my mind tied with Sinestra for best route in the creek!


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Winslow/ Hwy 87 : Winslow Wall : East Side : Cherry Twist (5.11d)
By: Kevin Kent When: May 5, 2014

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Comments: The nature of this climb has caused almost all the bolts to become loose. The bolts definitely need to be tightened and you should also use long draws in a few spots. Backcleaning the first bolt helps too.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Cliffs of Insanity : The Iron Lady Tower (5.7 C1)
By: Kevin Kent When: Mar 23, 2014

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Comments: The first pitch is easy and the 2nd is indeed a bolt ladder but of 14 or so protection bolts only 2 have hangers. The rest require rivet hangers or stoppers with a cable that can be slid down.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : The Bridger Jacks : Hoop Dancer (5.11 X)
By: Kevin Kent When: Mar 23, 2014

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Comments: Just to clarify the above comment, the third rap has good bolts but still has equalized tat instead of chain.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Way Rambo : Rochambeau (5.9)
By: Kevin Kent When: Mar 23, 2014

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Comments: Climbed the 2nd pitch of this (5.11) and took it to the rim. I would recommend bringing a #4 and #5 (or maybe a #6 instead?) for the 10 feet of wide slot (don't worry there are some face holds, so no heinous offwidthing required) and a blue tcu for right after. Most of the 2nd pitch is quite good but it was a bit sandy when I did it. I continued to the top and belayed off a juniper in one monster pitch that included pretty easy but tiring groveling up poor rock at the rim. It w... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : The Wall : The Judge (5.12-)
By: Kevin Kent When: Feb 25, 2014

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Comments: This route is awesome and from what I can tell is basically the poor man's Air Swedin.


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Phoenix Areas : Pinnacle Peak : Pinnacle Peak : Shalaylay Direct (5.11c)
By: Kevin Kent When: Feb 17, 2014

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Comments: Climbed this today and took a few forceful falls onto the rusty 1/4" bolt right above the belay, so I guess it's good, but it really should be replaced in my opinion (especially when the rest of the climb has nice half inchers). The rest of the route was very fun, painful on the fingertips though. Reminded me a lot of EBGB in josh, but thankfully not as scary.


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Prescott Areas : Granite Mountain
By: Kevin Kent When: Jan 26, 2014

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Comments: Went here for the first time this weekend and it was awesome. A little beta on the parking/gates locking though.

The sign at the trailhead says the gates lock at 5pm (which had been changed to 7pm when we got back!). Not knowing if our car would be locked in overnight we asked a local who was about to go on a hike who said they were strict about locking the gate and that we should be out by 5.
So our day was a little shorter that originally planned, but as we were driving out around 4, we saw ... more >>


Location: WY : Devil's Tower : Durrance Approach : Durrance (5.7) : Photo
By: Kevin Kent When: Jan 26, 2014

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Comments: I think about mid or upper 20s. No wind though.


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Oak Creek Canyon : The Waterfall : The Left Wall : Fool's Progress (5.11-)
By: Kevin Kent When: Jan 5, 2014

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Comments: It only took 22 years but this is now equipped with a modern 2 bolt anchor (including fixed biners, so as with all climbs at the waterfall please leave them in place).


Location: UT : Zion National Park : Spearhead : Iron Messiah (5.10)
By: Kevin Kent When: Nov 17, 2013

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Comments: If you opt for the run out face finish to the left on the last pitch, beware that it felt like very insecure 5.8 X to me. If you link the last 2 pitches move your belay (walk) right up the bushy ramp to the base of the short OW pitch or you will have horrible rope drag on the run out slab finish.


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