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Member Since: Aug 1, 2010
Last Visit: 1 day ago
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Point Rank: # 1,127
Total Points: 579
Last Year: 483
Last 30 Days: 114
19 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 209 | Routes 16 | Areas 3 | Photos 63 | Page Improvements | Comments 59 | Posts 31 | Stars 37 | Ratings
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Williams/ Sycamore Canyon A... : Volunteer Canyon
By: Kevin Kent When: Feb 16, 2015

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Comments: I'm fully in favor of any improvements to the road, but it needs a lot more than a once over with a grader. It needs needs to be raised for flood managemnt and have culverts added which will be a lot more expensive.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : West Stronghold : Sheepshead Area (Southwest) : ... : Absinthe of Mallet (5.9+)
By: Kevin Kent When: Feb 10, 2015

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Comments: For the life of me I can't understand the anchor placement at the top of P4. It's an ok stance but there is huge ledge 20 feet higher (I would recommend belaying here, you can use the bolt and a #3). I suppose it's to facilitate a rappel but even then it's not in the best spot if you ask me.

I didn't do this but I think linking the last 2 slab pitches would be doable with a 70m rope and 15(?) draws (at most 15 feet of very easy simulclimbing for the 2nd) and would avoid the hanging belay ... more >>


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : East Stronghold : Rockfellow Group : ... : Abracadaver (5.11a)
By: Kevin Kent When: Feb 10, 2015

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Comments: Definitely link pitches 2 and 3, it avoids the hanging belay and you'll earn some all important style points. This route is easily doable with a single 60m rope (as long as you don't need to bail!). To get down with one rope locate the rap anchors 30' to the east of and slightly above the top out and do 3 short raps (80-95' each), then scramble down the gully and do a very short walk back to the base of the route.

I agree with the above posts that the OW really isn't that bad (lots of face hol... more >>


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Sedona Area : West Sedona : Coffeepot Rock Area : ... : Authentic Life (5.10 C1 PG13)
By: Kevin Kent When: Feb 3, 2015

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Comments: I found the P1 traverse to be quite fun yet engaging despite the 7 or so bolts; the only gear I placed was a small purple BD nut roughly in the middle of the pitch. Keep a tight belay at the middle because there is a ledge about 12 feet down you could potentially hit if you peel off in the wrong spot.

P3 was quite hard and the rock is very friable. I broke a few footholds off and there are 2 or 3 crucial patina faceholds that seemed quite solid but if they break this will become much... more >>


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Oak Creek Canyon : The Waterfall : The Double Clutching Wall : Block Party (5.11)
By: Kevin Kent When: Jan 27, 2015

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Comments: "Sick sports action at its finest fellas batter up and get ready to woof with the big dogs thats what im talkin about woof woof." Best MP description ever?

Anyway this is a cool line. Going up the blocks at the start is quite disconcerting as you pretty much have to pull out on them, but I guess they're solid (at least until the next earthquake?)

You'll probably want a few more pieces than doubles of .3-.75; singles of small and a 1 and 2 would be good from what I remember.


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Oak Creek Canyon : The Waterfall : The Double Clutching Wall : Terminal Mocha (5.11)
By: Kevin Kent When: Jan 27, 2015

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Comments: Really enjoyable. The finish is sweet! You could definitely go up the ring locks splitter and still finish on this (instead of going left, as per checkin' the oil)


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Sedona Area : Oak Creek Village : Oak Creek Spire Area : ... : "Southern Revival" South Fa... (5.12)
By: Kevin Kent When: Jan 24, 2015

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Comments: Best tower route in Sedona?!?! Half the pitches are overhanging! We did the 2nd ascent and I only got sand in my eyes once! Thanks for the work Jeff and Zach, especially with all of the good hardware!
The crux is a monster, but you have a bolt right in your face!
A few small runouts you should be ready for, mainly the 8' of unprotected OW starting the 2nd pitch (too big for a #6?) and the "grip tape" slopers finish at the end of the crux pitch. There's a bolt at the start but like the desc... more >>


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Sedona Area : Oak Creek Village : Oak Creek Spire Area : ... : Photo
By: Kevin Kent When: Jan 24, 2015

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Comments: Definitely didn't realize how overhanging this route is!!


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Sedona Area : Sedona : Church Spires Area : ... : Good Friday, North Tower We... (5.11+)
By: Kevin Kent When: Jan 19, 2015

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Comments: This route is awesome and needs some love! The third pitch roof is awkward as all hell but has really good rock (as does the entire route except the easy top out). I didn't send the whole pitch but I freed the entire roof section after a few tries and 11+ may be a bit conservative ;)


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Sedona Area : Sedona : Church Spires Area : ... : Blast from the Past (Isaac'... (5.10)
By: Kevin Kent When: Jan 19, 2015

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Comments: Some gear beta for those who enjoy light packs: you can safely do this route with no #3 or #4 C4 camalots. Just bring triples of blue and purple TCUs to put in the convenient tips crack. Also if you can get solid fist jams through the crux you might be a gorilla. Pretty rough for 5.10.


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Sedona Area : Sedona : Church Spires Area : ... : Pussy Mind Trick (PMT) (5.12-)
By: Kevin Kent When: Jan 4, 2015

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Comments: I'm weak but I thought P3 was a classic sandbag, however my partners had no trouble following. P1 is as good as it gets! Figuring out the techy arete pulls and intricate footwork is a blast!

This should go without saying but... absolutely do not do this route after a rain, there are a ton of small holds ready to break off, especially on P3.

Climbed it in early January when it was sunny, no wind, and a high of 52 and it was perfect in a t-shirt (or shirtless)!

Approaching from the church via... more >>


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Oak Creek Canyon : Pumphouse Wash : The Ultimates/Mexican Pocke... : The Lorax (5.9+)
By: Kevin Kent When: Dec 1, 2014

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Comments: 5 star description!


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Election Wall
By: Kevin Kent When: Dec 1, 2014

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Comments: A very cool wall! Almost every route needs chain though so consider bringing some.
The approach is quite nice and shorter than going to The Wall!

Does anyone know anything about the sweet fingercrack to the right of Spiderpig? looks fun and hard!


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Election Wall : Imagine (5.11+)
By: Kevin Kent When: Dec 1, 2014

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Comments: I made a half-assed attempt at the direct start but was too scared (I tried to place sliders but they ripped when I hand tested them). Next I did the 100% Yourself start and went up to where I could get a solid purple TCU with a sling and tried traversing at a few different heights (maybe 15, 10 and 5 feet up. I broke a bunch of holds, kept backing off, and finally blew it trying a very low traverse. In the end I swung over to about 10 feet up and just started climbing from there and did the re... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Sparks Wall : Jupiter Crack (5.11)
By: Kevin Kent When: Nov 30, 2014

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Comments: This route is definitely awesome!
Not even close to the listed 130'. 70m rope was ample and I imagine a 60m would work.
Also the #6 didn't fit super well at the end, you might want to bring a 2nd #5 instead.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Cliffs of Insanity : jew fro an a boner (5.11+)
By: Kevin Kent When: Nov 3, 2014

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Comments: Added some chains to yer anchors and swiped yer biners and tat (don't worry I'll put the biners to good use on some other creek anchor)!
Didn't place the 000c3 at all. Nice atypical creek route!


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Cliffs of Insanity : I've Seen Worse (5.11)
By: Kevin Kent When: Nov 3, 2014

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Comments: This route was very new when I did it and still pretty dirty. Hopefully it'll clean up with time!


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Cliffs of Insanity : Puzzle Factory (5.12)
By: Kevin Kent When: Nov 3, 2014

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Comments: I wish I had a #4 for the opening fist crack. Also I thought the purples seemed a bit loose for extended portions; I'd bring closer to 6 greens instead of 2-3!


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Reservoir Wall : Pente (5.11-)
By: Kevin Kent When: Nov 3, 2014

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Comments: FA Hong? The plaque looks a lot like his others and I'm guessing he wouldn't have passed by this when doing the FA of Slot Machine.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Pistol Whipped : Unnamed 5.11 at top of trai... (5.11)
By: Kevin Kent When: Oct 20, 2014

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Comments: Pretty sure FA is Hong, judging by the bolts at the top. There is also one newer bolt with chain.

Anyway this route is sweet and well protected. I opted to layback the OW at the start which worked quite well. Found it to be mega pumpy in the middle, which is sustained off-fingers in a corner.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Pistol Whipped : Fairy Tales (5.13-)
By: Kevin Kent When: Oct 20, 2014

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Comments: If you're like me and challenged when it comes to alien sizes I was able to get orange(tight) and yellow TCUs and .3s and .4s.

This climb is a lot like Sig Sauer but without all the nice footholds.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Sparks Wall : The LGS (Last Great Splitte... (5.12+)
By: Kevin Kent When: Oct 20, 2014

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Comments: Nice work Chris, I saw this route this weekend. I was wondering about a 2nd pitch and the large death blocks above. If anyone ever cleans them it will be quite the trundle!


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Selfish Wall : (Unknown) (5.9)
By: Kevin Kent When: Oct 15, 2014

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Comments: Funny story about this route. A few years back I met keen-as lad from Oz in the creek and belayed him on this route. I can't remember the exact sequence of events but at the alcove where you get a rest he managed to drop a large cam (maybe a #5?) down the crack. It was hopelessly far out of reach and we had to abandon it. Later he told me he bought a large pole of some sort in Moab, taped a bent coathanger to it, and fished the cam out from above.


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Williams/ Sycamore Canyon A... : Volunteer Canyon : North Side : ... : Bertilak (5.11)
By: Kevin Kent When: Oct 13, 2014

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Comments: Overhanging splitter finger crack through the headwall at very honest 5.11?!

This route is so money and it doesn't even know it.


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Oak Creek Canyon : The Waterfall : The Left Wall : The Tyrant (5.11+)
By: Kevin Kent When: Oct 4, 2014

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Comments: This route is awesome! The top is possibly the best splitter I've climbed at the waterfall. Unfortunately it's a bit tarnished by the ledges in the middle.
Also, exercise caution when casting off onto the headwall because there will be a large ledge right below you. I found a #0 purple tcu to be perfect for protecting this part.


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