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Member Since: Aug 1, 2010
Last Visit: 1 day ago
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Kevin Kent
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Point Rank: # 964
Total Points: 740
Last Year: 585
Last 30 Days: 7
34 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 279 | Routes 18 | Areas 3 | Photos 87 | Page Improvements | Comments 80 | Posts 39 | Stars 52 | Ratings
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: MT : Kootenai Canyon : Diving Board Wall : High Dive (5.11a)
By: Kevin Kent When: Aug 12, 2015

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Comments: There's a sizeable runout (25' of 5.8, mostly easy handjams) before the bolts on steep finish that you can place a #1 camalot in.


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Columbia Mountains : ... : Sunshine Crack (5.11-)
By: Kevin Kent When: Aug 12, 2015

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Comments: Some clarification on the pitch breakdown here, I think some of the now bolted anchors may have moved slightly since this route was posted. We climbed this in 6 pitches and it worked well. The easy beta is just belay at every other chain anchor until at the base of the 5.8 headwall, climb the 5.8 headwall like normal, and then link the last 2 headwall 5.10 pitches (going right is mandatory!!)

As for the above description, it was generally good except for P3. I ended up belaying only 100' up bel... more >>


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : *Oak Creek Canyon : Pumphouse Wash : The Ultimates : Ultimate Finger Crack (5.11+)
By: Kevin Kent When: Jul 13, 2015

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Comments: Just in case this route is a little too splitter and good for you there's a bit of adventure to be had if you climb a 40' 2nd pitch(5.9 kind of soft and dirty, a new #5 would be useful) and then a crazy scramble including a tunnel through to the top of the formation, which is an independent summit but I hesitate to call it a tower. Also if you do this you can do the route with a 60m rope and then do 3 quick easy raps down Twist of Fate.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Left Rambo : Bloody Dick Art (5.11-)
By: Kevin Kent When: Jul 8, 2015

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Comments: Make sure to ask Elliott about the colorful history behind the name of this one!


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : *Flagstaff Crags : Mt. Elden : Sawyer Wall
By: Kevin Kent When: Jul 6, 2015

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Comments: Checked this out today and climbed all of the lines listed except flipline and we really enjoyed this place. Thanks for all the hard work and for doing a nice job with the base stabilization!


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : *Flagstaff Crags : Mt. Elden : Sawyer Wall : Deadwood Direct (5.11+)
By: Kevin Kent When: Jul 6, 2015

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Comments: I really enjoyed this one! The crux is tricky and fun. The nut isn't exactly fixed, but it sure is useful!


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : *Sedona Area : West Sedona : Dry Creek Road Area : ... : Photo
By: Kevin Kent When: Jul 6, 2015

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Comments: Classic!


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : *Oak Creek Canyon : West Fork : Where the Wild Things Are (5.12d)
By: Kevin Kent When: Jun 28, 2015

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Comments: 5 star mega classic! I'm going to go a step further than Casey and say this is the best crack I've climbed in Arizona.
It's like Ultimate Finger Crack but harder and better! Go do it ASAP!
Congrats to Wilson for the find and the FA!


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : *Sedona Area : West Sedona : The Great Wall : The Great Dihedral (5.10+ A0)
By: Kevin Kent When: Jun 1, 2015

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Comments: This climb is excellent. The whole area reminds me of Half Dome or the Chief in Squamish. Not saying the rock or climbing is quite as good, but the beauty, scale, and overall shape of the face is awesome.
If you scramble up a ways you'll reach the (flat and nondescript) summit of Lost Wilson Mountain.


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : *Oak Creek Canyon : West Fork : Engagement (5.10+)
By: Kevin Kent When: May 31, 2015

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Comments: Great route! There's definitely a few small dirty sections but from the sounds of it, this rig has cleaned up quite a bit since the FA.

The Slide Fire (May '14) seems to not have affected the route, but the majority of the approach after leaving the main trail was burnt. I'm not sure how much of a trail there originally was but we found neither trail nor cairns.

If you're reasonably solid at the grade and style I would suggest a single rack from blue TCU to #3 C4, with an extra #... more >>


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : *Flagstaff Crags : San Francisco Peaks : The Peaks Crag
By: Kevin Kent When: May 29, 2015

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Comments: JJ what are you talking about? O'Leary Peak has great climbing. You must not have looked hard enough...


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : *Sedona Area : Oak Creek Village : Bell Rock / Courthouse Butt... : ... : Bell Rock - Kamps Route (5.8)
By: Kevin Kent When: May 19, 2015

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Comments: I actually found this route to be a lot of fun! I took 2 beginners and one non-climber up it and we had a great time. The summit feels more like the top of an actual tower than a lot of other Sedona "towers."
Still missing a few hangers but most of the bolts are unnecessary anyway. I also only placed one piece (.75) and clipped the bolts.
Anchor is solid but could use some nice camouflaged chain instead of the current bright webbing considering that the area could not be more high profile.


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : *Sedona Area : West Sedona : Dry Creek Road Area : ... : Desert Mule (5.11+)
By: Kevin Kent When: Apr 20, 2015

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Comments: This is definitely an unheralded classic. Beautiful aesthetic tower, awesome hero climbing (especially on the 2nd pitch), and it being totally safe make for a very fun outing! If you're worried about it I didn't think any of the OW was harder than 5.10. The crux top-out on slopers is very solid 11 though!
A little note on the approach, you should be under the tower after about 30 minutes of hiking, it'll be on your right. I would advise starting up the wash that drains directly below the tower,... more >>


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : *Oak Creek Canyon : *The Waterfall : *The Left Wall : Giardia Crack (5.11+)
By: Kevin Kent When: Apr 13, 2015

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Comments: I too have seen multiple people rip the seemingly bomber and obvious .5 before the roof. Maybe add something about that to the route's description JJ?


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Sabbatical Wall : Reincarnation (5.12)
By: Kevin Kent When: Apr 6, 2015

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Comments: This is the best 12- finger crack I've climbed at the creek! Such a cool and surprisingly doable route!
I would advise saving an extra red C3 and about 3 .5s for after the roofs.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Sabbatical Wall : Sabbatical 36 (5.10)
By: Kevin Kent When: Apr 6, 2015

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Comments: 80m rope just barely works!


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Three Tower Buttress
By: Kevin Kent When: Apr 6, 2015

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Comments: Thanks for adding these Jeff! I was just looking for beta on these the other day!


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : *Oak Creek Canyon : *The Waterfall : *The Left Wall : Rising Sun (5.10- PG13)
By: Kevin Kent When: Apr 2, 2015

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Comments: This route was cleaned during the March '15 waterfall cleanup. A lot of the loose blocks down low were removed. There are still some very big ones but after testing them with a big wrecking bar I'm confident they won't be coming off any time soon. Possibly still PG-13 in the easier part down low but definitely a lot safer than it was.


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : *Sedona Area : Sedona : Church Spires Area : Christianity Spire
By: Kevin Kent When: Apr 1, 2015

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Comments: FA by Joe Brown, Dan McHale and Fred Beckey, via SE corner, April 1969.


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : *Sedona Area : Oak Creek Village : Oak Creek Spire Area : ... : Photo
By: Kevin Kent When: Mar 12, 2015

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Comments: Damn. Color me impressed!


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Navajolands : Cove Area : Down Tower, South Face (5.9 A1)
By: Kevin Kent When: Mar 11, 2015

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Comments: 23 pitches and 1700'?! The angle in the pictures must be deceiving ;)



Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : *Williams/ Sycamore Canyon : *Volunteer Canyon
By: Kevin Kent When: Feb 16, 2015

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Comments: I'm fully in favor of any improvements to the road, but it needs a lot more than a once over with a grader. It needs needs to be raised for flood managemnt and have culverts added which will be a lot more expensive.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : West Stronghold : Sheepshead Area (Southwest) : ... : Absinthe of Mallet (5.9+)
By: Kevin Kent When: Feb 10, 2015

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Comments: For the life of me I can't understand the anchor placement at the top of P4. It's an ok stance but there is huge ledge 20 feet higher (I would recommend belaying here, you can use the bolt and a #3). I suppose it's to facilitate a rappel but even then it's not in the best spot if you ask me.

I didn't do this but I think linking the last 2 slab pitches would be doable with a 70m rope and 15(?) draws (at most 15 feet of very easy simulclimbing for the 2nd) and would avoid the hanging belay ... more >>


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : East Stronghold : Rockfellow Group : ... : Abracadaver (5.11a)
By: Kevin Kent When: Feb 10, 2015

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Comments: Definitely link pitches 2 and 3, it avoids the hanging belay and you'll earn some all important style points. This route is easily doable with a single 60m rope (as long as you don't need to bail!). To get down with one rope locate the rap anchors 30' to the east of and slightly above the top out and do 3 short raps (80-95' each), then scramble down the gully and do a very short walk back to the base of the route.

I agree with the above posts that the OW really isn't that bad (lots of face hol... more >>


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : *Sedona Area : West Sedona : Coffeepot Rock Area : ... : Authentic Life (5.10 C1 PG13)
By: Kevin Kent When: Feb 3, 2015

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Comments: I found the P1 traverse to be quite fun yet engaging despite the 7 or so bolts; the only gear I placed was a small purple BD nut roughly in the middle of the pitch. Keep a tight belay at the middle because there is a ledge about 12 feet down you could potentially hit if you peel off in the wrong spot.

P3 was quite hard and the rock is very friable. I broke a few footholds off and there are 2 or 3 crucial patina faceholds that seemed quite solid but if they break this will become much... more >>


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