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Rumney


Member Since: Jul 10, 2010
Last Visit: 12 mins ago
Contact Kevin Heckeler

Point Rank: # 509
Total Points: 1,269
Last Year: 24
Last 30 Days: 4
15 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Kevin Heckeler been climbing?










Contributions


All 1697 | Routes 65 | Areas 6 | Photos 61 | Page Improvements | Comments 223 | Posts 792 | Stars 362 | Ratings 188
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : Riding Hood Wall : Physical Graffiti (5.6)
By: Kevin Heckeler When: May 17, 2015

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Comments: This isn't a crack climb, it's just there for gear. It's a corner with superb stemming moves for nearly the entire second pitch. Fantastic and sustained route for the grade on P2, then 5.fun territory for the top third.

If you're jamming more than an occasional hand on this route you're doing it wrong (for 5.6).

You will want a lot of gear for P2. Had doubles .5 - #2 C4 and used nearly all the rack and that was with running out the easier sections. If no one's climbing Big Bad Wolf y... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Willow Spring : Willow Springs South
By: Kevin Heckeler When: May 13, 2015

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Comments: For the love of god, could someone familiar with this area please sort these routes left -- right! Got there today and let's just say alphabetical isn't ideal.


Location: NV : Mount Charleston : Walla Walla Wash
By: Kevin Heckeler When: May 11, 2015

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Comments: Couple quick notes from an experienced out of towner.

The approach is longer than 15 minutes unless you're sprinting and not ever looking up/around at how awesome the area is.

Does this wall ever get any sun? We were there around 10AM today and the rock was ice cold (about 50F in the shade), and the shadow only got longer. Fingers were numb two bolts up! lol

Only did one route, was lots of fun/great movement, quality rock, and bolting was perfect.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Chapel Pond Pass : Beer Walls : Sword (5.6)
By: Kevin Heckeler When: Apr 29, 2015

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Comments: Dominic, you are correct - the right is easier and I think the standard line to the top after the bolt.

I'd hate to say it, but the bad guide beta likely contributed to my partner falling on this (from what I recall they went left into that corner and couldn't find any gear, spent time fiddling in what they could, pumped and bam).

However, the takeaway -- assessing the route and picking a line is still the responsibility of the climber. Guides are just the beginning of learning about... more >>


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Near Trapps : c. Moe (closure) to Harvest... : Spic and Span (5.2)
By: Kevin Heckeler When: Oct 13, 2014

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Comments: The black spruce tree at 15 feet mentioned in the Williams guide is no longer there (only the stump remains).

This has a few easy moves and takes good gear. Would be a good climb for a new leader. While I didn't think it deserved a star, it's worth doing.

We originally climbed this with the plan to top rope the first pitch (5.7) of Elf Stone Direct, but once at the top it looked like a number of directionals would be needed so we just moved on.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : f. The Guides' Wall (Madame... : Beginner's Delight (5.4) : Photo
By: Kevin Heckeler When: Sep 14, 2014

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Comments: THIS is the proper route on pitch 2.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : f. The Guides' Wall (Madame... : Beginner's Delight (5.4) : Photo
By: Kevin Heckeler When: Sep 14, 2014

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Comments: I always follow the corner to the top, then traverse left on an easy ledge system. This looks pretty run out in comparison.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Chapel Pond Pass : Spanky's Area : Sunshine City : Raw Tips (5.10b)
By: Kevin Heckeler When: Aug 10, 2014

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Comments: Mike, in response to your bolting criticism (keeping in mind I am not the route setter) I found the bolting on the routes here are spot on for what one should expect. There's general community consensus rules for when a bolt is needed... like if it's X number of grades below the crux/route grade, bolting will tend to be more spread out. There's pros/cons to this strategy, but it isn't done to piss anyone off or make it dangerous that I can assure you. There's many in the route setting sport c... more >>


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Chapel Pond Pass : Spanky's Area : Sunshine City : WMP (5.7+)
By: Kevin Heckeler When: Aug 10, 2014

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Comments: There is now a bolted 5.9 variation "Freak Accident with Gasoline" (three stars and G in the ADK Rock second edition) which has the same start as WMP but continues straight up the wall when WMP goes left heading for the arete. Not sure exactly how many bolts to anchor, which is shared with "Raw Tips" (10b) to the right.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Chapel Pond Pass : Shipton's Arete
By: Kevin Heckeler When: May 9, 2014

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Comments: adirondackexplorer.org/outtake...

Due to recent rock fall, the tree at the top used as an anchor is damaged. Other options exist further back from the cliff's edge.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Mescalito : Cat in the Hat (5.6)
By: Kevin Heckeler When: May 5, 2014

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Comments: The trick to many roofs, and this includes the small bulge on Birdland, is to traverse low. Not every feature on a wall needs to be attacked directly. The traverse on pitch 4 on this climb is barely 5th class if done low (properly).

This climb gets busy. You can start at 6AM on a weekday and will still see a long procession of climbers on your rap. It's worth the effort and annoyance if this is your climbing limit, otherwise I'll be doing other climbs and skipping CitH on future visits. In... more >>


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : g. V3 - Middle Earth : Triangle (5.9)
By: Kevin Heckeler When: Apr 7, 2014

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Comments: Direct start definitely makes this a more sustained climb and it's actually good thin climbing for the first 50 feet. Our leader managed to find okay gear (think small nuts). The roof is a typical Gunks grunt.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Keene Region : Owls Head Mountain
By: Kevin Heckeler When: Oct 21, 2013

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Comments: Great beginner's crag with nice views, clean cracks, and relatively easy top ropes (30' of static line is useful for the climbs on the left side).

This could probably be lumped in with the other High Peaks climbing areas.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : f. The Guides' Wall (Madame... : Finger Locks or Cedar Box (5.5)
By: Kevin Heckeler When: Oct 21, 2013

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Comments: Above the tree/small roof the crack disappears and the lower angle face doesn't offer a lot of pro. A beginning leader might find this 'thin' by most G standards.

I caution people to jam solidly at the start, because the crack is getting heavily polished due to constant gang roping. Sew it up at the bottom, it's a short route.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : f. The Guides' Wall (Madame... : Tipsy Trees (5.4)
By: Kevin Heckeler When: Oct 21, 2013

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Comments: I see in one of the photos someone belaying at the top of P2 from right of the rap station. I did the roof at the rap and it felt much harder than 5.3, and now I'm thinking that ending at the rap is off route.

Rapping with doubles to the ground is fine so long as no one is leading below you (Minty crosses the rap line if done this way). Since it's a busy route, it's best to do two raps and avoid people climbing on Minty.


Location: NH : Rumney : Triple Corners : Triple Corners Right : Murk Trench (5.10a)
By: Kevin Heckeler When: Sep 29, 2013

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Comments: This and Sun Bowl are worth the time to climb. They may 'only' be 25 feet, but there's some quality climbing on both routes. Thus far, these two routes have been the most technically challenging I've done at Rumney. Real 'thinker' climbs.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Catslab : Skimbleshanks (5.8)
By: Kevin Heckeler When: Sep 23, 2013

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Comments: I've climbed 5.5 roofs at the Gunks harder than this roof. It's not even a true roof pull, it's a traverse.

The lower crux can be skirted to the left at 5.7, but going straight up the bolt line is a thin, slabby 5.8.


Location: CO : Denver South : Castlewood Canyon SP
By: Kevin Heckeler When: Sep 22, 2013

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Comments: Just to mirror Timothy's comments, this is one of the most sandbagged places I've ever climbed. Leader beware. This place makes the Gunks feel soft.


Location: CO : Denver South : Castlewood Canyon SP : Neanderthal Wall : Pack the Walls (5.6)
By: Kevin Heckeler When: Sep 22, 2013

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Comments: Like many of the routes here, on no planet is this 5.6.


Location: CO : South Platte : Elevenmile Canyon : Pine Cone Dome : Another Unknown Route (5.8)
By: Kevin Heckeler When: Sep 21, 2013

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Comments: This would be more fun if the flake and layback at the start wasn't trying to spit you out for several moves. IMO these we're hard 8 or 5.9 moves because of their pumpiness and awkwardness. Rest of climb was maybe 5.7.


Location: CO : South Platte : Elevenmile Canyon : Pine Cone Dome : Don't Go (5.9+)
By: Kevin Heckeler When: Sep 21, 2013

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Comments: The top crux move at the last bolt was 5.9.


Location: CO : South Platte : Elevenmile Canyon : Pine Cone Dome : Stone Age (5.5)
By: Kevin Heckeler When: Sep 21, 2013

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Comments: The piton wiggles, you might want to back it up. Felt the moves in the corner were 5.6 ish, and the guide we have for 11 Mile lists it as 5.6.

Super high quality first pitch and long. I moved right and followed and interesting flake system (5.5) to the tree ledge. Corner looked dirty, and it seems people are following this path now for P1. Pitch 2 was meh, not even sure where the 5.3 move was. Kinda soloed it. Wish there was a rap to the ground from the tree. I'd bring a second rope just... more >>


Location: CO : Grand Junction Area : Unaweep Canyon : Main Canyon: Unaweep Granit... : Sun Towers : Dovercourt (5.7)
By: Kevin Heckeler When: Sep 17, 2013

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Comments: Just want to mirror to comments, this is a stellar single pitch 5.7.

A must do if you're looking for a good moderate in the valley.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Lake George Region : New Buck : Devil Wears Prana (5.10c PG13)
By: Kevin Heckeler When: Sep 9, 2013

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Comments: Per Adirondack Rock climbing guide: "Take care clipping the second bolt or you'll risk a ground fall".


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Lake George Region : New Buck : Team Rocksport (5.5)
By: Kevin Heckeler When: Sep 9, 2013

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Comments: Dirty, a couple moves to keep it interesting but overall not a quality climb. Useful for accessing the ledge to setup other climbs (?).


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