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Member Since: Jul 10, 2010
Last Visit: 2 hours ago
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Total Points: 1,497
Last Year: 253
Last 30 Days: 7
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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All 1868 | Routes 83 | Areas 7 | Photos 64 | Page Improvements 1 | Comments 239 | Posts 886 | Stars 394 | Ratings 194
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: NY : Adirondacks : Chapel Pond Pass : The Creature Wall : Jump Bat Crack (5.8-)
By: Kevin Heckeler When: Jul 12, 2015

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Comments: I found the crux to be the last couple moves to the final tree branch at the top. The tree is "in", right? :-)


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Chapel Pond Pass : The Creature Wall : Arachnid Traction (5.8)
By: Kevin Heckeler When: Jul 12, 2015

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Comments: Stellar single pitch moderate. Top 25 feet sustained. Many small 5.6-5.7 crux moves before getting into the main business. Not a lot of single pitch crag climbing in the ADKs like the Creature Walls, where the routes are long and sustained with interesting movement for the duration.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Chapel Pond Pass : Chapel Pond Slab : Empress (5.5 X)
By: Kevin Heckeler When: Jul 12, 2015

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Comments: If you want to take the north descent, climb ALL THE WAY to the top, PAST the small island of trees as Kenr describes as P6, to a very large boulder perched at the top [and rap station at a tree to its right]. You can barely see the top of the boulder from the tree island. You can traverse across the ledges from the tree island at P6, but at the end of the ledge was 20 feet of exposed, wet, and dirty slab. Wouldn't want to slip there.

P7 is easy 5.0 friction. At the top put the rop... more >>


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Indian Lake Region : Shanty Cliff : Shantytown (5.9+)
By: Kevin Heckeler When: Jul 6, 2015

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Comments: The top, and IMO most important bolt, is a spinner (was very loose when I tried unsuccessfully to tighten it).


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Lake George Region : Shelving Rock : Ark Wall : Oracle (5.10c)
By: Kevin Heckeler When: Jun 22, 2015

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Comments: Nick, feel free to add some stars :).

I used a rough formula to translate the published ADK Rock quality grades into MP's star system. ADK rock uses 5 stars, MP only 4. This was 3/5 stars in the ADK Rock guide.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Lake George Region : Shelving Rock : Ark Wall : Touran (5.7 PG13)
By: Kevin Heckeler When: Jun 21, 2015

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Comments: I'm rarely one to downgrade a climb, but I'm not sure where the +plus was. So I graded it 5.7

As for PG protection, there is some runout between bolts so that's perhaps warranted.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Lake George Region : Shelving Rock : Ark Wall : Toucan (5.9-)
By: Kevin Heckeler When: Jun 21, 2015

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Comments: There's potential ledge fall above the third bolt. I thought the crux was getting a stance after the jug. Fun section of steeper climbing.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Lake George Region : Shelving Rock : Ark Wall : Touche (5.7)
By: Kevin Heckeler When: Jun 21, 2015

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Comments: Of the moderates here, I thought this was the most varied and sustained (5.5 with a couple 5.7 moves). Classic Gunks roof move at the top.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Lake George Region : Sleeping Beauty Mountain
By: Kevin Heckeler When: Jun 20, 2015

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Comments: Currently the road into Dacy Clearing is closed (as of June 20, 2015). I heard it was in need of repairs. It adds 1.5 miles/3 miles round trip of easy road walking to get to the cliffs.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Indian Lake Region : Crane Mountain : Black Arches Wall : Sleepy Hollow (5.8)
By: Kevin Heckeler When: Jun 19, 2015

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Comments: Any recent climbs? I heard this was already getting grown in/dirty... ?


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Indian Lake Region : Crane Mountain : Upper South Corner Cliffs : ... : Photo
By: Kevin Heckeler When: Jun 19, 2015

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Comments: Thanks jay, corrected. ;-)


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Indian Lake Region : Crane Mountain : Upper South Corner Cliffs : ... : Photo
By: Kevin Heckeler When: Jun 15, 2015

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Comments: Yellow is 5.6 (original route), Orange which starts at a crack to the right is a 5.7 variation.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Indian Lake Region : Crane Mountain : Upper South Corner Cliffs : Jammer (5.9)
By: Kevin Heckeler When: Jun 15, 2015

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Comments: SPOILER BETA - Lay it back. Backs off the grade to maybe 5.8+


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Indian Lake Region : Crane Mountain : Upper South Corner Cliffs : ... : Photo
By: Kevin Heckeler When: Jun 15, 2015

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Comments: The route as originally climbed is yellow, staying right of the chossy/dirty wide crack near the top. Alternatively (and how we climbed it in orange) head right to finish, heading through brush to the right at the top to a tree anchor.

In blue I drew Jammer Crack that starts at the crack to the right.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Indian Lake Region : Crane Mountain : Upper South Corner Cliffs : Firecracker (5.7+)
By: Kevin Heckeler When: Jun 15, 2015

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Comments: The opening move is the classic "inconvenient hard start." The rest of the route is 5.7, the opening move not so much.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Indian Lake Region : Crane Mountain : Upper South Corner Cliffs : Stand Your Ground (5.7)
By: Kevin Heckeler When: Jun 15, 2015

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Comments: I also thought the crux was the face after the crack runs out, but it's not as bad as it seems and the bolting is perfect. IMO this is one of the better overall climbs from this ledge system (Jammer area). It's relatively sustained (mostly 5.5-5.6) and interesting, unlike some of the other moderate climbs that have hard starts, soft middles, and hard finishes.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : Riding Hood Wall : Physical Graffiti (5.6)
By: Kevin Heckeler When: May 17, 2015

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Comments: This isn't a crack climb, it's just there for gear. It's a corner with superb stemming moves for nearly the entire second pitch. Fantastic and sustained route for the grade on P2, then 5.fun territory for the top third.

If you're jamming more than an occasional hand on this route you're doing it wrong (for 5.6).

You will want a lot of gear for P2. Had doubles .5 - #2 C4 and used nearly all the rack and that was with running out the easier sections. If no one's climbing Big Bad Wolf y... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Willow Spring : Willow Springs South
By: Kevin Heckeler When: May 13, 2015

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Comments: For the love of god, could someone familiar with this area please sort these routes left -- right! Got there today and let's just say alphabetical isn't ideal.


Location: NV : Mount Charleston : Walla Walla Wash
By: Kevin Heckeler When: May 11, 2015

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Comments: Couple quick notes from an experienced out of towner.

The approach is longer than 15 minutes unless you're sprinting and not ever looking up/around at how awesome the area is.

Does this wall ever get any sun? We were there around 10AM today and the rock was ice cold (about 50F in the shade), and the shadow only got longer. Fingers were numb two bolts up! lol

Only did one route, was lots of fun/great movement, quality rock, and bolting was perfect.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Chapel Pond Pass : Beer Walls : Sword (5.6)
By: Kevin Heckeler When: Apr 29, 2015

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Comments: Dominic, you are correct - the right is easier and I think the standard line to the top after the bolt.

I'd hate to say it, but the bad guide beta likely contributed to my partner falling on this (from what I recall they went left into that corner and couldn't find any gear, spent time fiddling in what they could, pumped and bam).

However, the takeaway -- assessing the route and picking a line is still the responsibility of the climber. Guides are just the beginning of learning about... more >>


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Near Trapps : c. Moe (closure) to Harvest... : Spic and Span (5.2)
By: Kevin Heckeler When: Oct 13, 2014

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Comments: The black spruce tree at 15 feet mentioned in the Williams guide is no longer there (only the stump remains).

This has a few easy moves and takes good gear. Would be a good climb for a new leader. While I didn't think it deserved a star, it's worth doing.

We originally climbed this with the plan to top rope the first pitch (5.7) of Elf Stone Direct, but once at the top it looked like a number of directionals would be needed so we just moved on.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : f. The Guides' Wall (Madame... : Beginner's Delight (5.4) : Photo
By: Kevin Heckeler When: Sep 14, 2014

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Comments: THIS is the proper route on pitch 2.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : f. The Guides' Wall (Madame... : Beginner's Delight (5.4) : Photo
By: Kevin Heckeler When: Sep 14, 2014

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Comments: I always follow the corner to the top, then traverse left on an easy ledge system. This looks pretty run out in comparison.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Chapel Pond Pass : Spanky's Area : Sunshine City : Raw Tips (5.10b)
By: Kevin Heckeler When: Aug 10, 2014

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Comments: Mike, in response to your bolting criticism (keeping in mind I am not the route setter) I found the bolting on the routes here are spot on for what one should expect. There's general community consensus rules for when a bolt is needed... like if it's X number of grades below the crux/route grade, bolting will tend to be more spread out. There's pros/cons to this strategy, but it isn't done to piss anyone off or make it dangerous that I can assure you. There's many in the route setting sport c... more >>


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Chapel Pond Pass : Spanky's Area : Sunshine City : WMP (5.7+)
By: Kevin Heckeler When: Aug 10, 2014

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Comments: There is now a bolted 5.9 variation "Freak Accident with Gasoline" (three stars and G in the ADK Rock second edition) which has the same start as WMP but continues straight up the wall when WMP goes left heading for the arete. Not sure exactly how many bolts to anchor, which is shared with "Raw Tips" (10b) to the right.


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