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Rumney


Member Since: Jul 10, 2010
Last Visit: 2 days ago
Contact Kevin Heckeler


Point Rank: # 490
Total Points: 1,249
Last Year: 23
Last 30 Days: 2
15 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Kevin Heckeler been climbing?










Contributions


All 1486 | Routes 64 | Areas 6 | Photos 60 | Page Improvements | Comments 219 | Posts 609 | Stars 344 | Ratings 184
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : f. The Guides' Wall (Madame... : Beginner's Delight (5.4) : Photo
By: Kevin Heckeler When: Sep 14, 2014

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Comments: THIS is the proper route on pitch 2.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : f. The Guides' Wall (Madame... : Beginner's Delight (5.4) : Photo
By: Kevin Heckeler When: Sep 14, 2014

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Comments: I always follow the corner to the top, then traverse left on an easy ledge system. This looks pretty run out in comparison.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Chapel Pond Pass : Spanky's Area : Sunshine City : Raw Tips (5.10b)
By: Kevin Heckeler When: Aug 10, 2014

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Comments: Mike, in response to your bolting criticism (keeping in mind I am not the route setter) I found the bolting on the routes here are spot on for what one should expect. There's general community consensus rules for when a bolt is needed... like if it's X number of grades below the crux/route grade, bolting will tend to be more spread out. There's pros/cons to this strategy, but it isn't done to piss anyone off or make it dangerous that I can assure you. There's many in the route setting sport c... more >>


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Chapel Pond Pass : Spanky's Area : Sunshine City : WMP (5.7+)
By: Kevin Heckeler When: Aug 10, 2014

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Comments: There is now a bolted 5.9 variation "Freak Accident with Gasoline" (three stars and G in the ADK Rock second edition) which has the same start as WMP but continues straight up the wall when WMP goes left heading for the arete. Not sure exactly how many bolts to anchor, which is shared with "Raw Tips" (10b) to the right.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Chapel Pond Pass : Shipton's Arete
By: Kevin Heckeler When: May 9, 2014

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Comments: adirondackexplorer.org/outtake...

Due to recent rock fall, the tree at the top used as an anchor is damaged. Other options exist further back from the cliff's edge.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Mescalito : Cat in the Hat (5.6)
By: Kevin Heckeler When: May 5, 2014

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Comments: The trick to many roofs, and this includes the small bulge on Birdland, is to traverse low. Not every feature on a wall needs to be attacked directly. The traverse on pitch 4 on this climb is barely 5th class if done low (properly).

This climb gets busy. You can start at 6AM on a weekday and will still see a long procession of climbers on your rap. It's worth the effort and annoyance if this is your climbing limit, otherwise I'll be doing other climbs and skipping CitH on future visits. In... more >>


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : g. V3 - Middle Earth : Triangle (5.9)
By: Kevin Heckeler When: Apr 7, 2014

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Comments: Direct start definitely makes this a more sustained climb and it's actually good thin climbing for the first 50 feet. Our leader managed to find okay gear (think small nuts). The roof is a typical Gunks grunt.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Keene Region : Owls Head Mountain
By: Kevin Heckeler When: Oct 21, 2013

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Comments: Great beginner's crag with nice views, clean cracks, and relatively easy top ropes (30' of static line is useful for the climbs on the left side).

This could probably be lumped in with the other High Peaks climbing areas.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : f. The Guides' Wall (Madame... : Finger Locks or Cedar Box (5.5)
By: Kevin Heckeler When: Oct 21, 2013

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Comments: Above the tree/small roof the crack disappears and the lower angle face doesn't offer a lot of pro. A beginning leader might find this 'thin' by most G standards.

I caution people to jam solidly at the start, because the crack is getting heavily polished due to constant gang roping. Sew it up at the bottom, it's a short route.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : f. The Guides' Wall (Madame... : Tipsy Trees (5.4)
By: Kevin Heckeler When: Oct 21, 2013

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Comments: I see in one of the photos someone belaying at the top of P2 from right of the rap station. I did the roof at the rap and it felt much harder than 5.3, and now I'm thinking that ending at the rap is off route.

Rapping with doubles to the ground is fine so long as no one is leading below you (Minty crosses the rap line if done this way). Since it's a busy route, it's best to do two raps and avoid people climbing on Minty.


Location: NH : Rumney : Triple Corners : Triple Corners Right : Murk Trench (5.10a)
By: Kevin Heckeler When: Sep 29, 2013

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Comments: This and Sun Bowl are worth the time to climb. They may 'only' be 25 feet, but there's some quality climbing on both routes. Thus far, these two routes have been the most technically challenging I've done at Rumney. Real 'thinker' climbs.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Catslab : Skimbleshanks (5.8)
By: Kevin Heckeler When: Sep 23, 2013

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Comments: I've climbed 5.5 roofs at the Gunks harder than this roof. It's not even a true roof pull, it's a traverse.

The lower crux can be skirted to the left at 5.7, but going straight up the bolt line is a thin, slabby 5.8.


Location: CO : Denver South : Castlewood Canyon SP
By: Kevin Heckeler When: Sep 22, 2013

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Comments: Just to mirror Timothy's comments, this is one of the most sandbagged places I've ever climbed. Leader beware. This place makes the Gunks feel soft.


Location: CO : Denver South : Castlewood Canyon SP : Neanderthal Wall : Pack the Walls (5.6)
By: Kevin Heckeler When: Sep 22, 2013

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Comments: Like many of the routes here, on no planet is this 5.6.


Location: CO : South Platte : Elevenmile Canyon : Pine Cone Dome : Another Unknown Route (5.8)
By: Kevin Heckeler When: Sep 21, 2013

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Comments: This would be more fun if the flake and layback at the start wasn't trying to spit you out for several moves. IMO these we're hard 8 or 5.9 moves because of their pumpiness and awkwardness. Rest of climb was maybe 5.7.


Location: CO : South Platte : Elevenmile Canyon : Pine Cone Dome : Don't Go (5.9+)
By: Kevin Heckeler When: Sep 21, 2013

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Comments: The top crux move at the last bolt was 5.9.


Location: CO : South Platte : Elevenmile Canyon : Pine Cone Dome : Stone Age (5.5)
By: Kevin Heckeler When: Sep 21, 2013

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Comments: The piton wiggles, you might want to back it up. Felt the moves in the corner were 5.6 ish, and the guide we have for 11 Mile lists it as 5.6.

Super high quality first pitch and long. I moved right and followed and interesting flake system (5.5) to the tree ledge. Corner looked dirty, and it seems people are following this path now for P1. Pitch 2 was meh, not even sure where the 5.3 move was. Kinda soloed it. Wish there was a rap to the ground from the tree. I'd bring a second rope just... more >>


Location: CO : Grand Junction area : Unaweep Canyon : Main Canyon: Unaweep Granit... : Sun Towers : Dovercourt (5.7)
By: Kevin Heckeler When: Sep 17, 2013

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Comments: Just want to mirror to comments, this is a stellar single pitch 5.7.

A must do if you're looking for a good moderate in the valley.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Lake George Region : New Buck : Devil Wears Prana (5.10c PG13)
By: Kevin Heckeler When: Sep 9, 2013

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Comments: Per Adirondack Rock climbing guide: "Take care clipping the second bolt or you'll risk a ground fall".


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Lake George Region : New Buck : Team Rocksport (5.5)
By: Kevin Heckeler When: Sep 9, 2013

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Comments: Dirty, a couple moves to keep it interesting but overall not a quality climb. Useful for accessing the ledge to setup other climbs (?).


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Lake George Region : New Buck : Thin Soles (5.10b PG13)
By: Kevin Heckeler When: Sep 9, 2013

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Comments: Interesting moves. Tough top 15 feet of climbing!


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Lake George Region : New Buck
By: Kevin Heckeler When: Sep 9, 2013

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Comments: There's a lot of climbing here and it can easily fill up a day. Check in the ADK Rock climbing guide and on the adirondackrock.com website for new routes. I went this past weekend and usually go in the Spring, going in the late summer is MUCH better in terms of bugs and mud. Unfortunately our group did get attacked by yellow jackets as we were approaching 100 yards from the cliff. The 5.6 routes are good for the grade.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Indian Lake Region : Crane Mountain : Measles Walls : Under the Measles Wall
By: Kevin Heckeler When: Aug 19, 2013

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Comments: As mentioned, this is a perfect first-day-out beginning leader crag. There's two bolted lines that can be protected using only the bolts (other gear exists) and an easy trad line on the right side. Rock is clean (by Crane Mt standards) and friction properties great.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Chapel Pond Pass : Jewels and Gems : Pearl necklace (5.8+ R)
By: Kevin Heckeler When: Aug 19, 2013

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Comments: A worthy TR with a couple quality moves.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Chapel Pond Pass : Jewels and Gems : In The Rough (5.7+)
By: Kevin Heckeler When: Aug 19, 2013

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Comments: We used a medium sized tree behind the rap station as the primary anchor and set a couple directionals for a good TR setup. Fun climb, lots of variety. The roof move was awkward. IMO it was the least interesting section on the climb.


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