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Member Since: Aug 23, 2011
Last Visit: May 10, 2013
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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All 36 | Routes 9 | Areas 3 | Photos 10 | Page Improvments | Comments 6 | Posts | Stars 8 | Ratings

Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Wonderland of Rocks : The Astro Domes : North Astro Dome : ... : Repo Man (aka Power Fingers... (5.12a R)
By: Kevin Duck When: May 8, 2013

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Comments: An article on climbing ethics:
www.splitterchoss.com/2010/03/17/do-first-ascentionists-own->>>


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Wonderland of Rocks : The Astro Domes : North Astro Dome : ... : Astroturf (5.10d R)
By: Kevin Duck When: May 8, 2013

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Comments: An article on climbing ethics:
www.splitterchoss.com/2010/03/17/do-first-ascentionists-own->>>


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Wonderland of Rocks : The Astro Domes : North Astro Dome : ... : Repo Man (aka Power Fingers... (5.12a R)
By: Kevin Duck When: May 8, 2013

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Comments: The cause of the rock scarring on the first pitch of Powerfinger seemed inconclusive to me when I last looked at it, thirty years ago. I never questioned that there was scarring, only the level of certainty that others espoused, as to its cause. I believe that scarring could just as likely be the result of the cleaning reported by Keith, as that of chipping or enhancing of holds, which the first ascentionists have steadfastly denied doing for over thirty years now.

While recognizing the bold an... more >>


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Wonderland of Rocks : The Astro Domes : North Astro Dome : ... : Astroturf (5.10d R)
By: Kevin Duck When: May 8, 2013

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Comments: The cause of the rock scarring on the first pitch of Powerfinger seemed inconclusive to me when I last looked at it, thirty years ago. I never questioned that there was scarring, only the level of certainty that others espoused, as to its cause. I believe that scarring could just as likely be the result of the cleaning reported by Keith, as that of chipping or enhancing of holds, which the first ascentionists have steadfastly denied doing for over thirty years now.

While recognizing the bold an... more >>


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Wonderland of Rocks : The Astro Domes : North Astro Dome : ... : Astroturf (5.10d R)
By: Kevin Duck When: Nov 25, 2012

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Comments: In 1982, I asked Keith if they (he and Ed) had chipped holds on the first ascent of Powerfinger. I say ‘they’, because I believe that both climbers would have had to be in agreement on how to proceed with their climb. Keith told me that they had done some cleaning of loose rock, but nothing with the intent of facilitating the ascent.

Both Keith and Ed were 5.12 climbers at that time. They were well aware of prevailing ethics and as far as I ever saw, they were in agreement with and climbed by ... more >>


Location: CA : High Desert : Apple Valley Crags : Horseman's Center : The Cemetery : ... : Exhumed (5.10c)
By: Kevin Duck When: Aug 23, 2011

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Comments: I put up a route in 1995 that I called Evil Twin and I think this is the route described here. My route had 6 bolts plus the 2 bolt/chain anchor and it is between Umbilical Cord and Crown Of Thorns, (on the south west face of the Black Tower). I thought there was a move of 5.11 on the lower part of the climb.

I gave the route info and topo to Troy Mayr at the time, but it obviously was lost in the shuffle and didn't make it into the guide.

I have submitted Evil Twin as a new route. I believe t... more >>