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don't throw rocks


Member Since: Jan 14, 2007
Last Visit: 5 hours ago
Contact kevin deweese


Point Rank: # 2,979
Total Points: 159
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has kevin deweese been climbing?










Contributions


All 333 | Routes | Areas | Photos 29 | Page Improvments | Comments 14 | Posts 286 | Stars 3 | Ratings 1

Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : Central Sierra : Sonora Pass (Hwy 108) : Table Mountain : The Grotto : Chicken Ranch Bingo (5.10b)
By: kevin deweese When: May 27, 2014

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Comments: All but two original bolts have now been replaced as of May 2014 (not by me)

www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/2408794/Grotto-Bolt-Replace>>>


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Ken Black Memorial Dome : Blackjack (5.10d)
By: kevin deweese When: Mar 22, 2014

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Comments: For the follower/2nd on blackjack

Place a .4 grey C4 at the base of the crack so that if the second falls on the lieback moves after in clipping the last bolt they don't swing far to the left and have to go up the easier left way or work hard to swing back to the bolt


Location: Big Wall and Aid Climbing : Big Wall Bivying : Post : Photo
By: kevin deweese When: Jan 26, 2014

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Comments: The first generation, yes. I fixed that by wearing a belt over the waist to cinch things up. the later generations have a built-in belt that allows you to do the same with no need to hold up the crotch like some highschool student who doesn't know how much sagging makes you look like a tool.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Pinnacles National Monument : West Side : The Balconies : Premeditated (A2+)
By: kevin deweese When: Nov 9, 2013

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Comments: Has only seen a handful of ascents. It should be very clear that A2+ would be MUD rating, if you're only used to aiding on A2 granite, you'll be in for a pant-filling time up there.

Pitch 1 has gone clean. Pitch 2 goes clean to the roof then you'll need arrows and angles to make the traverse through very DFU terrain. The traverse can probably be freeclimbed at 5.9-5.10ish R/X but I wasn't willing to try it. Expect 2 or 3 hours a pitch. Helmets for your belayer is a must as you're aiders alone ... more >>


Location: CA : Central Coast : Pinnacles National Monument : West Side : The Balconies : Premeditated (A2+)
By: kevin deweese When: Nov 9, 2013

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Comments: Has only seen a handful of ascents. It should be very clear that A2+ would be MUD rating, if you're only used to aiding on A2 granite, you'll be in for a pant-filling time up there.

Pitch 1 has gone clean. Pitch 2 goes clean to the roof then you'll need arrows and angles to make the traverse through very DFU terrain. The traverse can probably be freeclimbed at 5.9-5.10ish R/X but I wasn't willing to try it. Expect 2 or 3 hours a pitch. Helmets for your belayer is a must as you're aiders alone ... more >>


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Parkline Slab : P-Line Express (5.10+)
By: kevin deweese When: Oct 23, 2012

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Comments: Pitch 4 and 5 are absolutely STELLAR. Very classy crack and face moves on P4 and varied P5.

WATCH YOUR ROPE when you come around the corner on Pitch 5 into the lieback corner. The rope gets stuck, then pinched as you come around and if you're not careful (read: stupid) like me, you'll end up doing your awkward stem/chimney moves with heinous drag. Not exactly sure how to prevent it, maybe shove a shirt or sock or something in the crack as you come around the corner? (I'm only half kidding) It... more >>


Location: CA : Central Coast : Pinnacles National Monument : East Side : Monolith : Direct Route (5.7 X)
By: kevin deweese When: Oct 23, 2012

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Comments: There is a bolt on the ground that the leader can anchor into (and prob should until the first bolt it clipped)


Location: CA : Los Angeles Basin : Stoney Point : Jesus Wall : Old Aid Bolt Ladder (5.5 C1 PG13) : Photo
By: kevin deweese When: Jan 19, 2012

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Comments: All bolts were there and had hangers and many were 3/8" as of 10/2011


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Sheep Pass Area : Cap Rock Area : Beaver Boulder : RURP Romp (C2 R)
By: kevin deweese When: Nov 22, 2011

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Comments: As of 11/2011, all deadheads and all but one fixed head have been stripped from the route. Route can be done clean using camhooks, hooks, handplaced beaks, and offset cams/nuts. Requires one fixed head to start route (there is a bathook hole that can be used, but the bottom is blown out and I was unable with the hooks I had to step above it without it blowing)

Bring some heads and/or beaks if you're not up for a possible groundfall whilst hooking above the last bolt. (But if you're going to na... more >>


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Church Bowl : More Balls Than Brains (A3 PG13)
By: kevin deweese When: Mar 1, 2011

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Comments: From the anchors of Church Bowl Tree an ambitious pendulum to the right can be made to set up a top rope on the two bolt anchors at the top of the crack.

hooking moves are bathooks so having a talon is very helpful.


Location: CA : San Francisco Bay : Beaver Street Wall : Bolt Route (5.11a/b R)
By: kevin deweese When: Oct 19, 2010

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Comments: Actually is quite a fun TR, very thin and requires good edging and painful fingertip holds.

A good aid lead climb as well, bring hooks and rivet hangers.


Location: CA : San Francisco Bay : Castle Rock & Sanborn-Skyli... : Waterfall Cliff : The Falls (5.10a R)
By: kevin deweese When: Sep 21, 2010

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Comments: Climbed this yesterday.
1. First bolt on the traverse in from the right has the bolt coming 1-2 inches out of the rock and has been bent down by the bolter (I assume) I do not know how (if any) to access the amount of bolt fixed and set beneath the surface.
2. Second bolt is a rusting button head with a smc hangar. The stone around the base of the bolt is wearing away and the bolt is not that secure in the hole (moving a bit)
3. Third bolt seems fine
4. Fourth bolt needs to have the nut tighte... more >>


Location: CA : San Francisco Bay : Mickey's Beach : The Egg : Sign Language (5.10c)
By: kevin deweese When: Dec 27, 2009

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Comments: Just hit this up yesterday and It def feels like a rock is missing for the 10c rating. You can see newer rock texture/color right at the place where one would expect a hold to be.

Still doable (and probably more fun now) but requires much thinner edging and smearing and balance work than is the character of the rest of the climb.


Location: CA : San Francisco Bay : Mount Diablo State Park : Butt Rock : Center Face (5.8 X)
By: kevin deweese When: Mar 4, 2007

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Comments: looks a lot easier from the base of the route. tried to freesolo it with a pack on and my aproach shoes. Scariest 20 minutes of my life.