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Birds and Beards


Member Since: Jan 14, 2007
Last Visit: 1 day ago
Contact kevin deweese


Point Rank: # 2,159
Total Points: 263
Last Year: 144
Last 30 Days: 21
3 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has kevin deweese been climbing?










Contributions


All 426 | Routes 3 | Areas 1 | Photos 40 | Page Improvements | Comments 18 | Posts 357 | Stars 6 | Ratings 1

Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Lost Brother : Blood & Coin (5.7 A3-)
By: kevin deweese When: Sep 26, 2014

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Comments: Hasn't seen a second as of this post. Currently (sept) the spring isn't running well (being a drought year) according to a climber that went up but bailed due to the smoke from the Meadow Fire.

Probably/possible free climbing possibility break down for this climb based upon my biased and unconfirmed views:
P1: 5.9 (no aid required) - confirmed
P2: 5.10 probably
P3: First 30' ~5.10-, Headwall = very difficult, last 70' ~5.11
P4: very difficult
P5: ~5.11 maybe
P6: ~5.12
P7: ~5.10+
P8:5.9 sweet l... more >>


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Sheep Pass Area : Cap Rock Area : Beaver Boulder : ... : Photo
By: kevin deweese When: Sep 19, 2014

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Comments: Def changes seasonally which is part of the reason for the "f" in the rating.

The amount of heads on the rock versus the route is different though. Most of the heads on this rock are found on Lost Lid though. That route has so many heads on it, even after I pulled off 15 or so heads and still left enough for it to be a head clip up. I'd be very disappointed if RURP Romp had more heads on it now since you can very easily do it with beaks either hand placed or nailed.

Next time i'm in Joshua tre... more >>


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Sheep Pass Area : Cap Rock Area : Beaver Boulder : ... : Photo
By: kevin deweese When: Sep 16, 2014

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Comments: True, but there's only a few terms you're going to see on a topo. I think anybody that's going to be able to actually use this information, i going to be able to figure out anything that's not 100% clear.


Location: CA : Inland Empire : Riverside Quarry : Slab City : Slab City (Center) : Vertical Vee (5.11d)
By: kevin deweese When: Sep 11, 2014

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Comments: Sorry, I moved my website from the link above.

New url or the entry is failfalling.com/ClimbingBlog/v...

- - - -
Great route for aid solo practice if you're good at setting unconventional ground anchors. Goes clean so even if it hadn't gone free, there'd be NO need to nail or head. Hand placed beaks are good as are hooks and camhooks.


Location: CA : Central Sierra : Sonora Pass (Hwy 108) : Table Mountain : The Grotto : Chicken Ranch Bingo (5.10b)
By: kevin deweese When: May 27, 2014

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Comments: All but two original bolts have now been replaced as of May 2014 (not by me)

supertopo.com/climbers-forum/2...


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Ken Black Memorial Dome : Blackjack (5.10d)
By: kevin deweese When: Mar 22, 2014

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Comments: For the follower/2nd on blackjack

Place a .4 grey C4 at the base of the crack so that if the second falls on the lieback moves after in clipping the last bolt they don't swing far to the left and have to go up the easier left way or work hard to swing back to the bolt


Location: Big Wall and Aid Climbing : Big Wall Bivying : Post : Photo
By: kevin deweese When: Jan 26, 2014

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Comments: The first generation, yes. I fixed that by wearing a belt over the waist to cinch things up. the later generations have a built-in belt that allows you to do the same with no need to hold up the crotch like some highschool student who doesn't know how much sagging makes you look like a tool.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Pinnacles National Monument : West Side : The Balconies : Premeditated (A2+)
By: kevin deweese When: Nov 9, 2013

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Comments: Has only seen a handful of ascents. It should be very clear that A2+ would be MUD rating, if you're only used to aiding on A2 granite, you'll be in for a pant-filling time up there.

Pitch 1 has gone clean. Pitch 2 goes clean to the roof then you'll need arrows and angles to make the traverse through very DFU terrain. The traverse can probably be freeclimbed at 5.9-5.10ish R/X but I wasn't willing to try it. Expect 2 or 3 hours a pitch. Helmets for your belayer is a must as you're aiders alone ... more >>


Location: CA : Central Coast : Pinnacles National Monument : West Side : The Balconies : Premeditated (A2+)
By: kevin deweese When: Nov 9, 2013

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Comments: Has only seen a handful of ascents. It should be very clear that A2+ would be MUD rating, if you're only used to aiding on A2 granite, you'll be in for a pant-filling time up there.

Pitch 1 has gone clean. Pitch 2 goes clean to the roof then you'll need arrows and angles to make the traverse through very DFU terrain. The traverse can probably be freeclimbed at 5.9-5.10ish R/X but I wasn't willing to try it. Expect 2 or 3 hours a pitch. Helmets for your belayer is a must as you're aiders alone ... more >>


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Parkline Slab : P-Line Express (5.10+)
By: kevin deweese When: Oct 23, 2012

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Comments: Pitch 4 and 5 are absolutely STELLAR. Very classy crack and face moves on P4 and varied P5.

WATCH YOUR ROPE when you come around the corner on Pitch 5 into the lieback corner. The rope gets stuck, then pinched as you come around and if you're not careful (read: stupid) like me, you'll end up doing your awkward stem/chimney moves with heinous drag. Not exactly sure how to prevent it, maybe shove a shirt or sock or something in the crack as you come around the corner? (I'm only half kidding) It... more >>


Location: CA : Central Coast : Pinnacles National Monument : East Side : Monolith : Direct Route (5.7 X)
By: kevin deweese When: Oct 23, 2012

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Comments: There is a bolt on the ground that the leader can anchor into (and prob should until the first bolt it clipped)


Location: CA : Los Angeles Basin : Stoney Point : Jesus Wall : Old Aid Bolt Ladder (5.5 C1 PG13) : Photo
By: kevin deweese When: Jan 19, 2012

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Comments: All bolts were there and had hangers and many were 3/8" as of 10/2011


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Sheep Pass Area : Cap Rock Area : Beaver Boulder : RURP Romp (C2 R)
By: kevin deweese When: Nov 22, 2011

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Comments: As of 11/2011, all deadheads and all but one fixed head have been stripped from the route. Route can be done clean using camhooks, hooks, handplaced beaks, and offset cams/nuts. Requires one fixed head to start route (there is a bathook hole that can be used, but the bottom is blown out and I was unable with the hooks I had to step above it without it blowing)

Bring some heads and/or beaks if you're not up for a possible groundfall whilst hooking above the last bolt. (But if you're going to na... more >>


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Church Bowl : More Balls Than Brains (A3 PG13)
By: kevin deweese When: Mar 1, 2011

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Comments: From the anchors of Church Bowl Tree an ambitious pendulum to the right can be made to set up a top rope on the two bolt anchors at the top of the crack.

hooking moves are bathooks so having a talon is very helpful.


Location: CA : San Francisco Bay : Beaver Street Wall : Bolt Route (5.11a/b R)
By: kevin deweese When: Oct 19, 2010

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Comments: Actually is quite a fun TR, very thin and requires good edging and painful fingertip holds.

A good aid lead climb as well, bring hooks and rivet hangers.


Location: CA : San Francisco Bay : Castle Rock & Sanborn-Skyli... : Waterfall Cliff : The Falls (5.10a R)
By: kevin deweese When: Sep 21, 2010

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Comments: Climbed this yesterday.
1. First bolt on the traverse in from the right has the bolt coming 1-2 inches out of the rock and has been bent down by the bolter (I assume) I do not know how (if any) to access the amount of bolt fixed and set beneath the surface.
2. Second bolt is a rusting button head with a smc hangar. The stone around the base of the bolt is wearing away and the bolt is not that secure in the hole (moving a bit)
3. Third bolt seems fine
4. Fourth bolt needs to have the nut tighte... more >>


Location: CA : San Francisco Bay : Mickey's Beach : The Egg : Sign Language (5.10c)
By: kevin deweese When: Dec 27, 2009

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Comments: Just hit this up yesterday and It def feels like a rock is missing for the 10c rating. You can see newer rock texture/color right at the place where one would expect a hold to be.

Still doable (and probably more fun now) but requires much thinner edging and smearing and balance work than is the character of the rest of the climb.


Location: CA : San Francisco Bay : Mount Diablo State Park : Butt Rock : Center Face (5.8 X)
By: kevin deweese When: Mar 4, 2007

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Comments: looks a lot easier from the base of the route. tried to freesolo it with a pack on and my aproach shoes. Scariest 20 minutes of my life.