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Member Since: Feb 13, 2006
Last Visit: Nov 18, 2014
Contact Kent Pease


Point Rank: # 3,859
Total Points: 116
Last Year: 15
Last 30 Days: 10
2 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Kent Pease been climbing?










Contributions


All 211 | Routes | Areas | Photos 20 | Page Improvements | Comments 16 | Posts 175 | Stars | Ratings

Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower Two : The Diving Board (5.11a)
By: Kent Pease When: Sep 6, 2014

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Comments: A few helpful notes: from the top of Pigeon Flake, the two bolts are on a slab a ways down to the right; you can belay from there, but this results in rope drag and poor communication with the leader, or sit on the top of the flake with a long extension to the anchor plus other gear. The traverse into the corner pitch (P3 per MP description) is not too hard but heady due poor rock and pin quality. After that, you can plug a good #4 Camalot at the base of the corner for an anchor ... more >>


Location: CO : South Platte : West Creek : Thunder Ridge : The Quarry : Undertow (5.10+)
By: Kent Pease When: Sep 6, 2014

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Comments: A great route and one of the best at Thunder Ridge! It requires a variety of skills, first for the climbing techniques and also for gear placements which are sometimes “under the gun” and/or difficult to see. Bring your big gear, and do the wide flake start, otherwise you’ll cheat yourself out of some great moves. I used a 9” Valley Giant and a #5 Camalot (old sizing/ = new #6) for the start and was glad to have both. You could do it more boldly with only one biggie though. A #... more >>


Location: CO : New Feature: Season Charts
By: Kent Pease When: Aug 20, 2014

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Comments: Nice feature.

I’m curious about what the graph is based on: frequency of ascents, simple meteorological criteria, an algorithm using meteorological data, precipitation patterns, area administrator’s opinion, apparel of climbers, or other? Given the differences in cliff orientation with consideration of sun/shade at different times of the day, and throughout the annual cycle, this could get complex….


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Boat Rock : Paddle-Wheeler (5.8)
By: Kent Pease When: Jun 13, 2014

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Comments: FWIW - it's also possible to skirt right on the slot ledge. This may not be as fun as the chimney, but it has some value. Easy, although you'll feel slightly sketched. It protects with medium cams.


Location: CO : Grand Junction area : Escalante Canyon : Interiors Wall Area : Everything in Between Varia... (5.11)
By: Kent Pease When: Feb 22, 2014

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Comments: The bolts to the left are the orphaned anchors from EIB — good to remind us of what was, but getting to them is sketchy or worse. A better option is to top out through the chimney and set up a natural anchor to bring up your second. From the rim you can walk west to the top of the Interiors Chimney then rap from a tree through the chimney (2 raps are recommended to avoid your rope getting caught).


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : North Six Shooter Peak : Liquid Sky (5.11+) : Photo
By: Kent Pease When: Nov 8, 2013

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Comments: Slim: “i think a plan to re-sender should be in order. my office and bag of goodies are only a short mall shuttle away :)”

Once again we’re on the same wave length. Unfortunately the season is short. Can you leave Thursday (14th) afternoon or will it have to be some time on Friday (15th)?


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : North Six Shooter Peak : Liquid Sky (5.11+) : Photo
By: Kent Pease When: Nov 2, 2013

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Comments: Yea - of course I disappeared into the maw.... but then re-appeared and retreated (de-Sendered). Maybe next time - if there is a next time?


Location: CO : South Platte : Rampart Range Road : Cabin Ridge Rock
By: Kent Pease When: Jul 14, 2013

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Comments: The distance along Rampart Range Road is actually about 8.5 miles, not 4 miles.


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : 700S Boulders : Unknown Offwidth (V0-1 PG13)
By: Kent Pease When: Jun 30, 2013

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Comments: I believe this is actually a ways right of BC, not left. Located right of "Crystal Ladder" and left of "Flight of the Owl".


Location: CO : South Platte : Cathedral Spires Area : Sunshine Wall : Astro Turkey (5.11b)
By: Kent Pease When: Dec 2, 2012

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Comments: You can rap this route with a single 60m rope, but be careful. The rope will easily reach the bushy ledge to the right where you start the actual climb, but the down-scramble from there is a little sketchy. Alternatively, go to the next ledge - with stretch our rope was a foot short, but it "worked".


Location: CO : South Platte : Goose Creek/Molly Gulch Cam... : Helen's Dome
By: Kent Pease When: Aug 1, 2011

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Comments: We found the directions to the parking area a bit confusing - to clarify: At the turnoff from Highway 126 to FR 211, there is a sign sticking out of the rock cut. At the parking area, we did not see a sign indicating "parking for Sheep Rock climbers", but the lot is 7.7 miles from the pavement.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Cliffs of Insanity : Brute Squad (5.10)
By: Kent Pease When: Jun 4, 2011

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Comments: Good clean fun.

A clarification on gear: About 80% of the way up the climb there is a supplemental crack inside where you can get in gear ranging from #2 to #4 Camalots and maybe down to a #1 Camalot. Note that the upper most part of the crack where it exits onto the main face defines a block that could displace, so lower placements are better. I did not find any spots for finger sized gear.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Cliffs of Insanity : As you wish (5.11-)
By: Kent Pease When: Jun 4, 2011

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Comments: Located a short distance (approx 150 ft) left of the Mini Cave route.

Using the arête may either help or hinder the ascent - you decide.


Location: CO : Grand Junction area : Escalante Canyon
By: Kent Pease When: Nov 14, 2009

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Comments: A good way to make a camouflage anchor is to use rustable chain, not the plated stuff. After it rusts it is permanently the color of the rock, which is better than paint that eventually flakes away. The right chain can be hard to find though – my current source is Lowe's. The new chain has manufacturing oil residue which retards the rusting process, but this can be easily removed in a dish washer. Then toss it on the ground for a couple of months and it is ready to use. It may not last 100... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Below Lower Ram... : Suparete (5.11a)
By: Kent Pease When: Aug 19, 2009

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Comments: Warning!

There is a very loose block at the top of the ramp where the business part of the route begins. A bit bigger than a 12-pack, but flatter. It is on the ledge and a natural stepping stone for the left foot when transitioning to the vertical. Beware!


Location: CO : Grand Junction area : Escalante Canyon
By: Kent Pease When: Apr 19, 2006

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Comments: Over the last few years, anchors have appeared below the top of previously established climbs. The parties adding the anchors were probably not aware of the existing route status due to the dearth of readily available information, and as such this is somewhat understandable. However, higher anchors are visible and some information has been published in the original "Desert Rock" guide by Bjornstad, which could have been used to clarify the status of the routes noted. These climbs do not end w... more >>