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Member Since: Oct 29, 2010
Last Visit: 21 hours ago
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Point Rank: # 564
Total Points: 1,083
Last Year: 681
Last 30 Days: 279
6 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 844 | Routes 39 | Areas 11 | Photos 60 | Page Improvements 4 | Comments 216 | Posts 398 | Stars 92 | Ratings 24
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: NY : Ramapo Powerlinez (Torne Va...
By: kenr When: 2 days ago

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Comments: My best try at giving directions ...

Driving from New York City or New Jersey or PA: Go to the giant interchange of routes NY Thruway 87, 287, and 17 near Suffern NY. Exit onto rt 17 North, which immediately goes into a traffic light. Turn sharp Right on rt 59 South for about 0.5 mile. Just after curving left, up and over railroad tracks, turn sharp Left onto Torne Valley Rd (Rockland County rt 95) and go about 1 mile generally North with some curves, past the recreational center.

Drivi... more >>


Location: NY : Ramapo Powerlinez (Torne Va... : High Electricity : Static (5.8-)
By: kenr When: 2 days ago

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Comments: Good slab-climbing practice.


Location: NY : Ramapo Powerlinez (Torne Va... : High Electricity : Elmer Fudd (5.3)
By: kenr When: 2 days ago

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Comments: Lots of thoughtful moves at the difficulty grade.

The name given for this route in one of the earlier guidebooks was rather negative and based on a situation which is no longer factual. So in keeping with its neighbor, here we have proposed the name of another Looney Tunes cartoon human character.


Location: NY : Ramapo Powerlinez (Torne Va... : High Electricity : Yosemite Sam (5.5)
By: kenr When: 2 days ago

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Comments: Thoughtful interesting moves the whole way. Completely different from indoor climbing. If only this route were longer.


Location: NY : Ramapo Powerlinez (Torne Va... : High Electricity : High Electricity (5.8+)
By: kenr When: 2 days ago

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Comments: Fun moves on positive holds. If only this were longer.


Location: NY : Ramapo Powerlinez (Torne Va... : Swamp King : Blank This (5.9+)
By: kenr When: 3 days ago

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Comments: I have not had time to do this one yet, so the description above is based on the guidebook.


Location: NY : Ramapo Powerlinez (Torne Va... : Swamp King : Wicked Whoa (5.9)
By: kenr When: 3 days ago

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Comments: Good moves suatained for practicing slab climbing, but unremarkable.
Very much in need of cleaning moss as of 2014.


Location: NY : Ramapo Powerlinez (Torne Va... : Swamp King : Fo Shoa! (5.6)
By: kenr When: 3 days ago

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Comments: Good moves for practicing slab climbing, but unremarkable. Could use some cleaning of moss off holds.


Location: NY : Ramapo Powerlinez (Torne Va... : Swamp King : Moat 'Fo (5.5)
By: kenr When: 3 days ago

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Comments: Perhaps this route had a more interesting and difficult finish before the big tree fell down over it.
Sharon and I did not find it very worthwhile in 2014.


Location: NY : Ramapo Powerlinez (Torne Va... : Swamp King : Crimp Crack (5.7)
By: kenr When: 3 days ago

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Comments: Sustianed interesing thoughtful moves. If only this route were longer.


Location: NY : Ramapo Powerlinez (Torne Va... : Swamp King : Frog Spit (5.7)
By: kenr When: 3 days ago

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Comments: One tough move in the middle, and the rest is interesting enough.


Location: NY : Ramapo Powerlinez (Torne Va... : Swamp King : White Lightning (5.9)
By: kenr When: 3 days ago

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Comments: Interesting thoughtful moves. If only this route were longer.


Location: NY : Ramapo Powerlinez (Torne Va... : The Good Book Wall : The Sins of the Father (5.10+)
By: kenr When: 6 days ago

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Comments: I will guess that the first crux (which I did not get on Top-Rope) is into the 11 range.

Not sure what the upper half is supposed to be ("challenging finish"?).
Continuing the obvious way up the R-facing corner is interesting climbing, but nowhere near the given 10+ difficulty. I'm guessing perhaps the idea is to finish on the face to the left of the corner?


Location: NY : Ramapo Powerlinez (Torne Va... : The Good Book Wall : The Sins of the Son (5.10+)
By: kenr When: 6 days ago

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Comments: Lots of the key holds are positive horizontals -- so it's reachy. There are some long-ish deadpoints at 5ft7inch height. I'd guess for anyone much less than 5ft7inch tall (170cm) with normal reach, it really is like 10+


Location: PA : Northeast Ridges and Valley... : Mocanaqua (Shickshinny) : Main Wall : Guido (5.8+ PG13)
By: kenr When: Sep 21, 2014

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Comments: I think the ceiling to the left of this route's start -- about 10 feet up with a bolt just above it -- is called "Meatball", around 5.10a. Interesting moves over the roof (I did it on top-rope).
Then it's not clear to me how to distinguish upper section of Meatball from upper section of Guido - (I assume the bolts farther left are for the Stardust route). Anyway interesting enough on top-rope.

We also used the first ten feet of Guido as an alternate (more fun?) start for Beginners Crack. And i... more >>


Location: PA : Northeast Ridges and Valley... : Mocanaqua (Shickshinny) : Main Wall : Beginner's Crack (5.6)
By: kenr When: Sep 21, 2014

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Comments: Lots of interesting thoughtful moves.

Many beginners will find the low-mid crux (about 25 feet up) perplexing.

But almost all beginners will find the upper traverse leftward not only perplexing but strenuous for finger-grip. And with any fall subject to substantial side-swing if done as top-rope from either of the cliff-top bolt-pair anchors.

Better for real beginners is to try the "Beginners Top-Rope Face" route first, which offers less-complicated lessons in beginner techniques.
Then plan ... more >>


Location: NY : Ramapo Powerlinez (Torne Va... : The Tower Wall : Back to the Wall (5.7+ PG13)
By: kenr When: Sep 19, 2014

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Comments: Yes going directly up over the lower-middle bulge (perhaps more toward its left side) adds some interesting challenge for the Follower.

Higher is another (harder) variation for the Follower is (instead of diagonaling left to the upper arete), to go straight up toward the upper bulge, then traverse left close under the bulge to join the arete higher up.


Location: PA : Northeast Ridges and Valley... : Mocanaqua (Shickshinny) : The Library : Main Block, Front Side
By: kenr When: Aug 24, 2014

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Comments: Many people like to lead the (bolted) Warm Up Route (on the back wall of the main block) to set up Top-Ropes for routes on this front wall.
Note that the lower half of that route is way harder than 5.6, and does have ledge-hit fall potential.


Location: PA : Northeast Ridges and Valley... : Mocanaqua (Shickshinny) : The Library : Main Block, Back Side
By: kenr When: Aug 24, 2014

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Comments: Many people like to lead the (bolted) Warm Up Route to set up Top-Ropes for routes on this wall (also for routes on the Front wall of the main block).
Note that the lower half of that route is way harder than 5.6, and does have ledge-hit fall potential.


Location: PA : Northeast Ridges and Valley... : Mocanaqua (Shickshinny) : The Library : Main Block, Back Side
By: kenr When: Aug 24, 2014

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Comments: Bolts for "Easy Day for a Layback" (on the left of Lavwelle Latte) are missing hangers as of August 2014.


Location: PA : Northeast Ridges and Valley... : Mocanaqua (Shickshinny) : The Library : Rear Wall
By: kenr When: Aug 24, 2014

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Comments: Hangers on the bolts on the horizontal rock at the top of this wall are still all missing as of August 2014.

I saw intact rings on one anchor which is in the vertical rock just below the top of this wall.


Location: PA : Northeast Ridges and Valley... : Mocanaqua (Shickshinny) : The Library : Main Block, Back Side : Cornflake Crack (5.7)
By: kenr When: Aug 24, 2014

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Comments: Starts about ten or fifteen feet left of the first bolt for Warmup Route (which is the right-most bolted route on this wall).

The most protectable start is at a thin crack left from below the not-so-thin flake/crack of the upper half of this route. Many leaders will find this harder than 5.7.
(Perhaps more interesting to start even farther left, at the 1-inch crack in the right side of the Grey Nose, then crossing right into the thin crack.)

Variation: Could also start directly below the upper... more >>


Location: PA : Northeast Ridges and Valley... : Mocanaqua (Shickshinny) : The Library : Main Block, Back Side : Warm Up Route (5.6)
By: kenr When: Aug 24, 2014

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Comments: This route is at least 5.8 - (not remotely 5.6).
Several tricky moves, with at least one critical move relying on a small fingerhold.

Work out very carefully the belay / protection methods required to avoid hitting a ledge or bulge if blow one of the moves in the lower half - (? bring a stick-clip ?)
. (I am not suggesting that the bolts are badly placed -- I think the problem is just the structure of the rock).

The first move off the low ledge is much more difficult if have shorter legs.


Location: PA : Northeast Ridges and Valley... : Mocanaqua (Shickshinny) : The Library : Main Block, Back Side : Grey Face (5.9)
By: kenr When: Aug 24, 2014

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Comments: It does not start just right of the Brass Monkey route. Rather there's a wide chimney and at least thirty feet distance between.

It does start at the left side of the low grey nose just left of the lower left thin crack of the Cornflake Crack route. The first bolt is at the top of a small shallow dihedral. The next two bolts are in the clean-looking slab/face a little to the left of the upper right-facing corner which is below a higher top block.


Location: PA : Northeast Ridges and Valley... : Mocanaqua (Shickshinny) : The Library : Main Block, Back Side : Lavwelle Latte (5.8)
By: kenr When: Aug 24, 2014

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Comments: I think it starts behind a living tree.
Just to the right of "Good Day for a Layback" (whose bolts are missing their hangers as of August 2014). Just to the left of "The Murky Way" (bolted).

Somebody said the name of this route means "Milky Way", and that it was named for white streaks that ran down from the bolts that were first installed. But now these streaks are not visible.


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