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Member Since: Oct 29, 2010
Last Visit: 16 hours ago
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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All 1385 | Routes 55 | Areas 12 | Photos 89 | Page Improvements 18 | Comments 322 | Posts 630 | Stars 173 | Ratings 86
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: NY : Ramapo Powerlinez (Torne Va... : The Tower Wall : Photo
By: kenr When: 3 days ago

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Comments: This photo diagram is intended only to help understand the relative positions of the different routes. Not to provide detailed guidance to someone who wants to lead or climb a specific route.

Photos of walls for climbing are tricky to understand, with different shadows and lighting as photographed from different angles and different times of day, different seasons of the year. It's tricky to draw lines to touch rock features that are important for climbing -- because sometimes those features do... more >>


Location: NY : Ramapo Powerlinez (Torne Va... : The Tower Wall : Photo
By: kenr When: 3 days ago

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Comments: This photo diagram is intended only to help understand the relative positions of the different routes. Not to provide detailed guidance to someone who wants to lead or climb a specific route.

Photos of walls for climbing are tricky to understand, with different shadows and lighting as photographed from different angles and different times of day, different seasons of the year. It's tricky to draw lines to touch rock features that are important for climbing -- because sometimes those features do... more >>


Location: CA : High Sierra : Palisades and Surrounding P... : Temple Crag : Sun Ribbon Arete (5.10a)
By: kenr When: Aug 20, 2015

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Comments: statistics ...
. . (noticing how the word "bivy" appears twice in the topo photo, perhaps it will help
. . . to have some parameters for estimating times).

  • trail approach: about 2400 vertical feet of uphill over distance 4.5 miles (+725 vertical meters over 7.3 km). Trail is well-maintained, mostly sandy nor rocky, and carefully designed to avoid steep sections.
  • cross-country approach: 1000-1250 vertical feet of uphill over distance 0.75-0.9 mile (320-380 meters uphill over 1.2-1.5 km). Muc...
 more >>


Location: CA : High Sierra : Palisades and Surrounding P... : Temple Crag : Sun Ribbon Arete (5.10a)
By: kenr When: Aug 20, 2015

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Comments: This a real alpine climb.
The class 5 sections on the route are straightforward and rather run and interesting, on mostly sound rock (loose stuff was mostly rocks sitting on horizontal ledges - obvious). The crux seemed like a fairly normal Sierra granite move.
But ...
  • getting from the top of the (long) approach talus up to the sound class 5 rock could be tricky. Now that much of the permanent snowfield is gone, conditions vary widely early versus late season, or how much single-seaso...
 more >>


Location: CA : High Sierra : Palisades and Surrounding P... : Temple Crag : Sun Ribbon Arete (5.10a)
By: kenr When: Aug 20, 2015

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Comments: Descent:
A typical climber's descent from the summit (or its SE or E side where Sun Ribbon + Venusian reach) is ESE down talus 1200 vertical feet to Contact Pass (perhaps only 700-900 feet if skip going to the summit), then N and NNW down more talus (with some scree and sand) toward Third Lake or Second Lake. The steepest section has a rappel not more than 26 meters just above Contact Pass. We had a 50 meter rope, so I did not have to try the other options ...

I've heard that as... more >>


Location: CA : High Sierra : Palisades and Surrounding P... : Temple Crag
By: kenr When: Aug 20, 2015

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Comments: Descent ...
A typical climber's descent from the summit (or its SE or E side where Venusian + Moon Goddess + Sun Ribbon reach) is ESE down talus 1200 vertical feet to Contact Pass (perhaps only 600-900 feet if skip going to the summit). Then N and NNW down more talus (with some scree and sand) toward Third Lake or Second Lake. The steepest section has a rappel not more than 26 meters just above Contact Pass. We had a 50 meter rope, so I did not have to try the other options ...

I've heard that ... more >>


Location: CA : High Sierra : Palisades and Surrounding P... : Temple Crag : Sun Ribbon Arete (5.10a)
By: kenr When: Aug 18, 2015

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Comments: As of August 2015, there's not much snow remaining in the gully by the bottom. So there's lots of loose rock and sand to cross before reaching the continuous rock at the start of the first pitch. And the rock (since it's anchored only by sand) does tumble down. Think about not being under other parties.

Nice thing is that we didn't need an ice axe or crampons. We started for a ways on the left side of the snowfield (which had not re-frozen during the night). One of us used a thin sharp rock as ... more >>


Location: CA : High Sierra : Tuolumne Alpine : North Peak : Northwest Ridge (Easy 5th)
By: kenr When: Aug 16, 2015

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Comments: I had a lot of fun in this route today.

I'm finding it difficult to connect my memories with the description above. I'm guessing it's because my strategy for climbing is different. Instead of looking for the most efficient or fastest or easiest way to the summit. I'm looking for the most difficult and interesting moves and sequences.

Some impressions and observations:
(a) the ridge curves around. Where I started climbing, it was going up from NE to SW. Soon it curved so it was going up from N... more >>


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Lamb Dome : Silent Shout (5.12a)
By: kenr When: Aug 14, 2015

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Comments: 60 meter rope definitely does not make it to the ground for rappelling or top-roping.

The two-bolt anchor (with mussy hooks) is set higher (and more convenient to reach for setting TR) than the anchor for Ground Effects.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Lamb Dome : Little Sheeba (5.10a)
By: kenr When: Aug 14, 2015

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Comments: Rope length: There's a new bolted route (Silent Shout?) next to Little Sheba to the west, so we thought we'd top-rope it after Little Sheba, and discovered that a 60 meter rope was definitely _not_ long enough.

Little Sheba: If I climbed it once a week, I'd become a much better crack climber - (though I can't say it's as _fun_ as some other crack climbs).
I felt that no single move was harder than 10a, but the thoughtfui moves just kept coming at me. Remarkably sustained.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Mammoth Lakes Area : Horseshoe Lake Area : Sunshine Wall : Faithful Friend (5.10b)
By: kenr When: Aug 10, 2015

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Comments: Sharon could not handle any climbing at the 10b level, but she found lots of fun climbing around 5.6 maybe 5.7 in the lower two-thirds. She was on Top-Rope which we'd set up after first climhing "Little Gem", so she just lowered off when she reached the crux.

Top-Rope: If you want to have multiple people climb it on Top-Rope after leading this route, I suggest bringing a couple of long slings ... because the two-bolt anchor for leading is set above away from the edge of the steeper rock, so you... more >>


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Mammoth Lakes Area : Horseshoe Lake Area : Sunshine Wall : Green Ivy (5.7)
By: kenr When: Aug 10, 2015

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Comments: One or two harder moves (not obvoiusly fun) with the rest much easier (and somewhat fun). Some slippery (quartzite?) rock (not fun) higher up.

We did not see any good way to reach the two-bolt top anchor by simple scrambling down from above. We top-roped this route using as our main top anchor the big tree with bare twin trunks at the top of "Little Gem" -- with a directional on the Green Ivy route (to prevent large sideways swing if a climber should fall).


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Mammoth Lakes Area : Horseshoe Lake Area : Sunshine Wall : Little Gem (5.8)
By: kenr When: Aug 10, 2015

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Comments: Good variety of thoughtful fun climbing moves, sustained difficulty.

Top-Rope: If you want to have multiple people climb it on Top-Rope after leading this route, I suggest bringing a couple of long slings ... because the two-bolt anchor for leading is set above away from the edge of the steeper rock, so you'd have more rope drag over the edge if Top-Rope directy off the two-bolt anchor for leading.

We instead used as our TR anchor the obvious large tree with bare twin trunks. Attached a long s... more >>


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Mammoth Lakes Area : Horseshoe Lake Area : Sunshine Wall
By: kenr When: Aug 9, 2015

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Comments: Getting there ...
From the Horseshoe Lake parking (GPS lat long approx N37.6129 W119.0209), the approach is about 150 vertical feet of uphill over 0.5 mile distance (45 vertical meters over 0.85 km distance). Typical approach times in the range of 10-20 minutes.

We found it this way ...
Walk on the obvious bicycle path South about 0.35 mile (600 meters), crossing five bridges. Where the bike path crosses a little creek (usually dry) with no bridge (N37.6072 W119.0225), exactly there turn Right... more >>


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Mammoth Lakes Area : Horseshoe Lake Area : Horseshoe Piles : ... : north face Unknown 1 (5.12a)
By: kenr When: Aug 9, 2015

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Comments: I tried to climb this line on Top-Rope, using as my top anchor some long slings attached to a gnarly tree (obviously visible from the ground) above the route. The line slants a little, so I placed a couple of directionals as I rapped down.

After an easier "warmup" start, got into some interesting thoughful face/slab climbing. But then I reached a section that was too hard for me. So I yarded up past that and finished up the dark overhang -- which was interesting, but not the crux.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Mammoth Lakes Area : Horseshoe Lake Area : Horseshoe Piles : ... : All Work No Spray (5.11+)
By: kenr When: Aug 9, 2015

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Comments: Lots of very interesting thoughtful moves -- I felt a bit more interesting than Meaning of Life.

The move at the first bolt felt very hard to me.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Mammoth Lakes Area : Horseshoe Lake Area : Horseshoe Piles : ... : Arroyo Seco (5.10d)
By: kenr When: Aug 9, 2015

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Comments: If this is the line on the North face which is between the (? unknown name ?) left-most bolt line and "All Work No Spray", then ...

It's brilliant.
Interesting varied thoughtful climbing on a striking rock configuration.

I climbed it on Top-Rope using as my top anchor some long slings attached to a gnarly tree (obviously visible from the ground) above the route.

Ken


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Mammoth Lakes Area : Horseshoe Lake Area : Horseshoe Slabs : Cowpuncher (5.6)
By: kenr When: Aug 8, 2015

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Comments: This route is in the right half (right side of the central gully) of the Horseshoe Slabs Right side.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Mammoth Lakes Area : Horseshoe Lake Area : Horseshoe Slabs : Unknown 7 (5.7)
By: kenr When: Aug 8, 2015

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Comments: This route is in the right half (right side of the central gully) of the Horseshoe Slabs Right side.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Mammoth Lakes Area : Horseshoe Lake Area : Horseshoe Slabs : Unknown 6 (5.4)
By: kenr When: Aug 8, 2015

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Comments: This route is in the left half (left side of the central gully) of the Horseshoe Slabs Right side.

(I felt that trying to climb all the way up the central gully was significantly harder than class 2.)


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Mammoth Lakes Area : Horseshoe Lake Area : Horseshoe Slabs : Unknown 5 (5.8)
By: kenr When: Aug 8, 2015

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Comments: We used the bolt anchors for Unknown 4 to set up a Top-Rope on this route (or what we took it to be).

We started our climbing well to the right of those anchors (near what felt like the right edge of the main "wall" for the left side (left of the central gully) of the Horseshoe Slabs Right sector. So if one of us fell (which happened) they would swing a ways to the left. (but starting more to the left closer under the Unknown 4 anchor seemed harder than 5.8).

First we climbed straight up abou... more >>


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Mammoth Lakes Area : Horseshoe Lake Area : Horseshoe Slabs : Unknown 4 (5.9)
By: kenr When: Aug 8, 2015

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Comments: Two-bolt anchor at top.

Top-Rope: Perhaps the top anchor could be reached with simple scrambling down from above. But we set up our Top-Rope on belay from the next anchor to its left.

The easiest start I found was climb the low crux of the Horseman 5.10a route, then step right and climb fun 5.5-5.7 stuff roughly straight up to the top anchor.

Otherwise I didn't find any way through the lower wall (first 15-20 feet) that seemed easier than (interesting) 10c. Likely I was missing something (or ... more >>


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Mammoth Lakes Area : Horseshoe Lake Area : Horseshoe Slabs : Horseman (5.10a)
By: kenr When: Aug 8, 2015

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Comments: Two-bolt anchor is a bit tricky to reach be scrambling down from above, so we used some protection to set up Top-Rope.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Mammoth Lakes Area : Horseshoe Lake Area : Horseshoe Slabs : Wrangler (5.8)
By: kenr When: Aug 8, 2015

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Comments: Lots of fun 5.6 moves. Perhaps a 5.7 move at the start?

Top-Rope: We felt we needed protection to scramble down to reach the anchor from above, so we did those moves on top-rope from the boit anchor to its left.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Mammoth Lakes Area : Horseshoe Lake Area : Horseshoe Slabs : Giddy Up! (5.7)
By: kenr When: Aug 8, 2015

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Comments: As of August 2015 this route has 4 bolts leading to a two-bolt top anchor.

In the new 4th edition print guidebook, it is named "Giddy Up!"

Goes up roughly toward a foot-wide vertical dike, but passes a bit left of it, then bears left to the top anchor bolts.

Two-bolt top anchor is shared with the climb to its left.

Top-Rope -- We used that anchor to set up a top-rope by scrambling around from far right, up and across the top. But felt we needed some protection to scramble down to the anchor... more >>


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