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Member Since: Oct 29, 2010
Last Visit: 2 hours ago
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Point Rank: # 734
Total Points: 865
Last Year: 464
Last 30 Days: 135
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has kenr been climbing?










Contributions


All 787 | Routes 27 | Areas 9 | Photos 50 | Page Improvements 3 | Comments 201 | Posts 396 | Stars 78 | Ratings 23
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: NY : Ramapo Powerlinez (Torne Va... : The Tower Wall : Back to the Wall (5.7+ PG13)
By: kenr When: 23 hours ago

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Comments: Yes going directly up over the lower-middle bulge (perhaps more toward its left side) adds some interesting challenge for the Follower.

Higher is another (harder) variation for the Follower is (instead of diagonaling left to the upper arete), to go straight up toward the upper bulge, then traverse left close under the bulge to join the arete higher up.


Location: PA : Northeast Ridges and Valley... : Mocanaqua (Shickshinny) : The Library : Main Block, Front Side
By: kenr When: Aug 24, 2014

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Comments: Many people like to lead the (bolted) Warm Up Route (on the back wall of the main block) to set up Top-Ropes for routes on this front wall.
Note that the lower half of that route is way harder than 5.6, and does have ledge-hit fall potential.


Location: PA : Northeast Ridges and Valley... : Mocanaqua (Shickshinny) : The Library : Main Block, Back Side
By: kenr When: Aug 24, 2014

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Comments: Many people like to lead the (bolted) Warm Up Route to set up Top-Ropes for routes on this wall (also for routes on the Front wall of the main block).
Note that the lower half of that route is way harder than 5.6, and does have ledge-hit fall potential.


Location: PA : Northeast Ridges and Valley... : Mocanaqua (Shickshinny) : The Library : Main Block, Back Side
By: kenr When: Aug 24, 2014

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Comments: Bolts for "Easy Day for a Layback" (on the left of Lavwelle Latte) are missing hangers as of August 2014.


Location: PA : Northeast Ridges and Valley... : Mocanaqua (Shickshinny) : The Library : Rear Wall
By: kenr When: Aug 24, 2014

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Comments: Hangers on the bolts on the horizontal rock at the top of this wall are still all missing as of August 2014.

I saw intact rings on one anchor which is in the vertical rock just below the top of this wall.


Location: PA : Northeast Ridges and Valley... : Mocanaqua (Shickshinny) : The Library : Main Block, Back Side : Cornflake Crack (5.7)
By: kenr When: Aug 24, 2014

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Comments: Starts about ten or fifteen feet left of the first bolt for Warmup Route (which is the right-most bolted route on this wall).

The most protectable start is at a thin crack left from below the not-so-thin flake/crack of the upper half of this route. Many leaders will find this harder than 5.7.
(Perhaps more interesting to start even farther left, at the 1-inch crack in the right side of the Grey Nose, then crossing right into the thin crack.)

Variation: Could also start directly below the upper... more >>


Location: PA : Northeast Ridges and Valley... : Mocanaqua (Shickshinny) : The Library : Main Block, Back Side : Warm Up Route (5.6)
By: kenr When: Aug 24, 2014

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Comments: This route is at least 5.8 - (not remotely 5.6).
Several tricky moves, with at least one critical move relying on a small fingerhold.

Work out very carefully the belay / protection methods required to avoid hitting a ledge or bulge if blow one of the moves in the lower half - (? bring a stick-clip ?)
. (I am not suggesting that the bolts are badly placed -- I think the problem is just the structure of the rock).

The first move off the low ledge is much more difficult if have shorter legs.


Location: PA : Northeast Ridges and Valley... : Mocanaqua (Shickshinny) : The Library : Main Block, Back Side : Grey Face (5.9)
By: kenr When: Aug 24, 2014

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Comments: It does not start just right of the Brass Monkey route. Rather there's a wide chimney and at least thirty feet distance between.

It does start at the left side of the low grey nose just left of the lower left thin crack of the Cornflake Crack route. The first bolt is at the top of a small shallow dihedral. The next two bolts are in the clean-looking slab/face a little to the left of the upper right-facing corner which is below a higher top block.


Location: PA : Northeast Ridges and Valley... : Mocanaqua (Shickshinny) : The Library : Main Block, Back Side : Lavwelle Latte (5.8)
By: kenr When: Aug 24, 2014

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Comments: I think it starts behind a living tree.
Just to the right of "Good Day for a Layback" (whose bolts are missing their hangers as of August 2014). Just to the left of "The Murky Way" (bolted).

Somebody said the name of this route means "Milky Way", and that it was named for white streaks that ran down from the bolts that were first installed. But now these streaks are not visible.


Location: PA : Northeast Ridges and Valley... : Mocanaqua (Shickshinny) : The Library : Main Block, Back Side : Brass Monkey (5.8)
By: kenr When: Aug 24, 2014

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Comments: I found no line of bolts between Great Expectations and the arete at the north (right) end of this section of the wall. There were at least three bolts on Great Expectations; and there were at least two bolts very close to the corner / arete at the left side of the obvious wide chimney at the right end of this section of the wall -- but no bolts in between.

The Holtzman guidebook lists Brass Monkey with a protection rating of X.
I don't see how that fits with having three bolts.


Location: PA : Northeast Ridges and Valley... : Mocanaqua (Shickshinny) : The Library : Main Block, Back Side : Flamer (5.11a)
By: kenr When: Aug 24, 2014

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Comments: Now one of the two trees at the bottom has been sawed and removed, so now this route starts between a tree on the left and a stump on the right, about eight feet apart.

Left of "Great Expectations" (bolted) and Right of "The Murky Way" (bolted) - (which is Right of "Lavwelle Latte" (bolted).

. (Might be only three bolts now instead of four?)

Variation (easier but not so well protected) is to traverse Right partway up, then move back Left about eight feet below the small upper roof. Plenty of ... more >>


Location: CA : High Sierra : Mt. Russell
By: kenr When: Aug 16, 2014

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Comments: West summit is higher than the East summit.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Mammoth Lakes Area : Horseshoe Lake Area : Horseshoe Slabs
By: kenr When: Aug 15, 2014

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Comments: Approach:
About 0.5 mile / 0.9km gentle walk from Parking (GPS lat long ~ N37.6129 W119.0208) by the N end of Horseshoe Lake.
Toilets at parking, but we did not see any bear-proof food storage containers (as of 2014).

Directions: From the Parking, start south on a wide straight dirt mountain-bike trail following about 50 yards/meters from the west shore of Horseshoe Lake. After about 0.25 mile / 400m cross the first bridge. Trail gets narrower and curvier. After another 0.25 mile / 400m, the 5t... more >>


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Mammoth Lakes Area : Dike Wall : East Face : Cromagnon (5.10a)
By: kenr When: Aug 10, 2014

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Comments: After the initial overhang, it's dead vertical to the top. Remarkable that no single move is harder than 10a.
But it keeps coming at you.
Would be even better if it required more variety of techniques.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Mammoth Lakes Area : Dike Wall : North Face : Mr. D.N.A. (5.8)
By: kenr When: Aug 10, 2014

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Comments: Sustained difficulty. Variety of techniques. If only it were longer.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Mammoth Lakes Area : Dike Wall : North Face : Mongoloid (5.10b)
By: kenr When: Aug 10, 2014

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Comments: Crux section is way harder (full value 10b) than the rest -- but the rest is interesting enough.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Mammoth Lakes Area : Dike Wall : North Face
By: kenr When: Aug 10, 2014

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Comments: Top-Roping access ...
The short access to the top of the cliffs is by two climbs rated 5.6 and 5.7 in the most recent print guidebook. There might or might not be an easier access far up toward the West which would go well above the top of the wall, and then you'd have to find your way back down and hope you could reach the top anchors for your desired climbing routes.

So if you're not feeling brave to solo 5.6 or 5.7 as your first climbing of the day, bring a selection of smal... more >>


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Mammoth Lakes Area : Dike Wall
By: kenr When: Aug 10, 2014

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Comments: The Dike Wall is located around GPS latitude longitude (N37.5962 W119.0133), about 0.2 mile / 350 meters SW from the S shore of Lake George, or about 4 miles / 6 km SW from the town of Mammoth Lakes.

Parking (lat long ~ N37.6034 W119.0107) is on the N side of Lake George. There are toilets and bear-proof food storage facilities.

Approach: The shorter approach hike is around the East side of Lake George -- about +350 vertical feet / +105 meters over a distance of 0.7 mile / 1.1 km, mostl... more >>


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Pothole Dome
By: kenr When: Aug 6, 2014

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Comments: Class 5 climbing sections on Left TR anchors 1 and 2 are around 15-25 feet. The rest of each pitch is at most class 4 (many climbers would call it class 3).

Our feeling was the class 5 moves were pretty interesting, just wish there had been more.

On the other hand the approach is short and easy (if don't get confused by the SuperTopo guidebook directions like we did), so perhaps the limited climbing is worth it.

Some ideas for how to get more out of those short class 5 sections:
  • do it in a...
 more >>


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Pothole Dome
By: kenr When: Aug 5, 2014

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Comments: Where things are ...
The main parking for Pothole Dome is by an open field on its S side (GPS latitude longitude ~ N37.8768 W119.3943).

Alternate parking (GPS lat long ~ N37.8802 W119.3966) at a pullout on N side near the top of a hill about a quarter mile NW from the main parking.

Summit of the Dome is about (GPS lat long ~ N37.8805 W119.3939)

The Left Top-Rope bolt anchors (for climbs 1 and 2), three of them (GPS lat long N37.8814 W119.3939) are on the NNW side of the Dome, due N about 100 ... more >>


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Eagle Creek Canyon : 90 Foot Wall : Casual Observer (5.1)
By: kenr When: Aug 2, 2014

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Comments: Rather interesting chimney. Uses a variety of techniques, even some chimneying. Wide enough so there's no need for knee-pads.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Mammoth Lakes Area : Rock Creek : Gong Show Wall : Hey! (5.11a PG13)
By: kenr When: Jul 31, 2014

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Comments: I did it as top-rope from Overexposure P1.
Lots of interesting thoughtful moves, one pretty wild one. Good variety of situations.
I'd guess much harder for climbers much less tall than 5ft7in / 170cm (because the wild move is reachy, and preceded by another reachy crux move).

Consider that the guidebook saying that it's an arete climb may not be fully accurate.

Ken


Location: CA : High Sierra : Little Lakes Peak : NNW Ridge direct (5.6)
By: kenr When: Jul 31, 2014

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Comments: I tried this as a solo climb on a day when the weather did not invite anything harder or longer. I'd seen a report that the traverse over Little Lakes Peak to Mt Morgan had pretty views. I assumed that meant starting with the SW ridge of LLPk, which is also mentioned in the Moynier+Fiddler book. I check in the Secor book and it mentioned that the NW ridge was enjoyable. That would make it a shorter loop to fit the weather forecast, so that's that I chose.

The trail and off-trail hiking approach... more >>


Location: CA : High Sierra : Mt. Emerson : Southeast Face (aka the Wat... (5.4)
By: kenr When: Jul 24, 2014

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Comments: Some statistics ...
  • approach to start of 5th class climbing from official day-visitor Parking:
. . about 2000 vertical feet over 2.5 miles horizontal
. . / ( +600 meters over 4 km distance )

  • start of 5th class climbing to summit
. . about 2000 vertical feet over 0.5 mile horizontal
. . / ( +600 meters over 0.8km distance)

  • summit ridge climbing (including upper descent section NW from summit)
. . about 1100 ft horizontal (330 meters)

  • Total from official Parking to summit
. . abo... more >>


Location: CA : High Sierra : Mt. Emerson : Southeast Face (aka the Wat... (5.4)
By: kenr When: Jul 24, 2014

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Comments: Had a lot of fun on it today.
The summit ridge is great, and continued for longer than I expected. The starting moves are interesting, and there's lots of other good gully climbing. And it's worthwhile as routefinding "adventure" out in the middle of this big face -- not sure when's the best time to switch to a different gully, where to get on the ridge, etc.

But it has more drawbacks than some other great Sierra ridge routes: The descent of the south face on sand and scree is not fun at all, a... more >>


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