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Member Since: Oct 29, 2010
Last Visit: 1 hour ago
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Point Rank: # 453
Total Points: 1,445
Last Year: 828
Last 30 Days: 69
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has kenr been climbing?










Contributions


All 1276 | Routes 52 | Areas 12 | Photos 87 | Page Improvements 11 | Comments 284 | Posts 615 | Stars 148 | Ratings 67
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Mammoth Lakes Area : Rock Creek : Iris Slab : Groovin' (5.8 R)
By: kenr When: 7 hours ago

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Comments: two-bolt top anchor say like ten feet / three meters down from the top of cliff (but above where it gets sustained steeper below).
I think this anchor is shared with "Sting".


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Mammoth Lakes Area : Rock Creek : Iris Slab : Sting (5.8)
By: kenr When: 7 hours ago

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Comments: two-bolt top anchor say like ten feet / three meters down from the top of cliff (but above where it gets sustained steeper below).
I think this anchor is shared with "Groovin".

For setting up Top-Rope, perhaps could rappel in (with some diagonal) from the top anchor for "Welcome to the Iris Slab".

Lots of fun moves, with some jamming in the crack as well as frictional footwork.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Mammoth Lakes Area : Rock Creek : Iris Slab : Welcome to the Iris Slab (5.8)
By: kenr When: 7 hours ago

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Comments: two-bolt anchor at top.
We did it on Top-Rope -- rather fun.
Both interesting jamming in the crack and interesting footwork.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Mammoth Lakes Area : Rock Creek : Iris Slab : Exodus (5.10a R)
By: kenr When: 7 hours ago

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Comments: anchor at at top with two bolts, with two chains attached for rappel.
We did it on Top-Rope.
Nice slab / face climbing practice fairly sustained -- if that's what you want.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Mammoth Lakes Area : Rock Creek : Iris Slab : Crazy Bald Head (5.10c R)
By: kenr When: 7 hours ago

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Comments: two bolt anchor at top.

Taking the obvious direct line up to the top anchor, there's a fairly "blank" section of the face for about 9-10 feet / 3 meters which seemed pretty hard for 10c.
(the 4th edition print guidebook calls it 10b, which seemed way out of sync with the 10a next to it -- or maybe the print guide has in mind some "approved" sequence around one side with some features that are "on" the route).
. (or maybe I was just not seeing something, or was too tired).

Otherwise some intere... more >>


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Mammoth Lakes Area : Rock Creek : Iris Slab : Easy Skankin' (5.5)
By: kenr When: 7 hours ago

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Comments: the Variation is at difficulty around 5.7, with several finger jam moves (preceded by a step-up move where we _wished_ we had a finger jam).
We set up Top-Rope for the Variation by wrapping a static line around one of several available trees near the edge of the cliff top.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Mammoth Lakes Area : Rock Creek : Iris Slab : Concrete Jungle (5.7)
By: kenr When: 8 hours ago

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Comments: two-bolt anchor at top.

Interesting moves, especially in lower half, with the two cracks. Not sure if any single move was harder than 5.6, but thoughtful, and somewhat sustained at that difficulty, esp. in the lower half.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Eastern Hills : Sagehen Summit Area : Granite Basin
By: kenr When: 1 day ago

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Comments: The dirt road leaving highway 120 is non-wide single-lane with sagebrush close alongside. So I suggest before driving the twenty miles out on rt 120, consider if your vehicle is going to be able to handle whatever method you're planning to use in case you unexpectedly run into a section that's very irregular or deeply rutted or washed out, and your method for in case you encounter another vehicle coming in the opposite direction.


Location: NY : Ramapo Powerlinez (Torne Va... : High Electricity : High Electricity (5.8+)
By: kenr When: 2 days ago

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Comments: OK so if High E "is" a boulder problem, then what is it's bouldering difficulty? Since this is MountainProject, we need to use standard USA Huecos grades.

so what's the USA-standard grade ...
? V minus minus ?


Location: NY : Ramapo Powerlinez (Torne Va... : The Tower Wall : Photo
By: kenr When: 2 days ago

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Comments: Matt -
Thanks for that warning. And expecially to leaders -- which I guess you are in a special position to give, since you might be the only person who has ever led Tower Wall Direct.

I think it's a great climb even though I have never led it. I've climbed it three or four times on Top-Rope. Once in the last two weeks: Did the traverse both ways, high and low. The line drawn in the photo looks to me sort of like what I guess I climbed (and my partners climbed) each time. And looking at the pho... more >>


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Highway 50 Corridor : Lover's Leap : West Wall : Arctic Breeze (5.10a)
By: kenr When: 5 days ago

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Comments: Seemed like the crux was only a short section. Most of the rest much easier (but fun enough) climbing.
For more sustained nearby, could try Absolutely Billy.


Location: NY : Ramapo Powerlinez (Torne Va... : The Tower Wall : Any Which Way But Down/Ex-t... (5.8 PG13)
By: kenr When: Jul 13, 2015

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Comments: Here's a try at a more detailed description:

Start at a crack system at the left border of the Tower Wall main face, about 15 feet left of the the Shark's tooth detached flake, between two slab faces.

Up the cracks into a concave scoop. Perhaps easier to trend left through the scoop. Next up the left side of a fractured block. Then a little overhang move at bush. Finish up through (overhanging) center of darker top rocks.


Location: CA : High Sierra : Little Lakes Valley & Mono ... : Little Lakes Peak : NNW Ridge direct (5.6)
By: kenr When: Jul 4, 2015

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Comments: Thanks to Tyler for the warning about descending the South side of Little Lakes Pk. And for the suggestion of trying the SW ridge. I went back and took some "route planning" photos of that from the hiking trail - (somebody else suggested starting on the W face to join the SW ridge partway up).

And thanks for a different perspective on the NNW Ridge. Likely it does have more loose rock than the N ridge of Mt Conness. And does not have such a dramatic "position" on a macro scale.
Quality of climb... more >>


Location: PA : Northeast Ridges and Valley... : Mocanaqua (Shickshinny) : The Library : Main Block, Front Side : Darling Dainty Feet (5.11)
By: kenr When: Jun 13, 2015

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Comments: The suggestion in the description above to use the arete to keep the difficulty in the 11 range is very appropriate.

The move slightly below mid-way is likely much harder for climbers much less tall than 5ft7inch with normal reach.

Some the hangers on the bolts might be old.


Location: PA : Northeast Ridges and Valley... : Mocanaqua (Shickshinny) : The Library : Main Block, Back Side : Brass Monkey (5.8)
By: kenr When: Jun 13, 2015

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Comments: Those two bolts are for a different route, called "5.10b" in the Rob Holzman guidebook.
. (My best guess would be that the strong climbers who first developed the Library just enjoyed soloing Brass Monkey -- as they did other routes of similar difficulty, e.g. Gray Face).


Location: PA : Northeast Ridges and Valley... : Mocanaqua (Shickshinny) : The Library : Main Block, Back Side : Great Expectations (5.10a)
By: kenr When: Jun 13, 2015

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Comments: The crux is roughly straight up from the 3rd (top) bolt. Even though the two-bolt anchor is well to the right (N) of the 3rd bolt.

Crux move is likely much harder for climbers much less tall than 5ft8inch with normal reach.

Location: Bolted line to the right of the tree stump which is about 4 feet right of a live tree. At least 10 feet left of the arete (with two bolts) and chimney.


Location: PA : Northeast Ridges and Valley... : Mocanaqua (Shickshinny) : The Library : Main Block, Back Side : Warm Up Route (5.6)
By: kenr When: Jun 13, 2015

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Comments: A few months later today, it didn't seem so hard. Guess I'm getting better at seeing holds, positioning myself to use holds?


Location: PA : South Central PA : Boxcar Rocks (Chinese Wall) : Main Wall : Autumns Child (5.10a)
By: kenr When: Jun 7, 2015

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Comments: Lots of thoughtful moves, sustained in difficulty, but not much variety.

Much harder than some of the 5.10a routes in the Gunks. I feel like it's at least as difficult as some 5.11b pitches I've done at some sport crags out West.


Location: PA : South Central PA : Boxcar Rocks (Chinese Wall) : Main Wall : Birthday Girl (5.7)
By: kenr When: Jun 7, 2015

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Comments: More sustained and interesting if in the lowest 10 feet, do not use any holds on (or right of) the Keneissiology crack.

If this is your first climb at Boxcar, the crux sequence might feel like 5.9
Only flaw is that it's much easier after the crux (but still nice moves).


Location: PA : South Central PA : Boxcar Rocks (Chinese Wall) : Main Wall : Curt's Crack (5.7)
By: kenr When: Jun 7, 2015

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Comments: maybe some contributors to MountainProject call this crack "Pebbles"?
But others reserve that word for the route on the face to its left.


Location: PA : South Central PA : Boxcar Rocks (Chinese Wall) : Main Wall : Margies Curves - Left (5.7)
By: kenr When: Jun 7, 2015

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Comments: No single crux, but sustained 5.6 (or 5.5?) moves. Only flaw is, not much variety.


Location: NY : Ramapo Powerlinez (Torne Va... : The Tower Wall : Rachel's Crack (5.8-)
By: kenr When: Jun 5, 2015

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Comments: I agree with ml242 that finishing to the right on upper Johnsons adds more variety (pure face climbing) to the route. Also quicker to set up as a top-rope.

But I feel that the normal finish to Rachels is plenty interesting. And setting up the top-rope to the climber's left (west) of the torpedo for Rachels also permits (with a small adjustment in TR setup) top-roping "Tower Wall Direct", which is plenty interesting (more than Johnsons?).

Anyway I'll guess what most people do is not a link-up b... more >>


Location: NY : Ramapo Powerlinez (Torne Va... : The Tower Wall : Dead Tree Dihedral (5.7)
By: kenr When: Jun 5, 2015

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Comments: This time I noted what protection I placed. Didn't place or see much use for anything larger than a #1 Camalot - (unless you've got truly big wide stuff for the lower crack). Lots of uses for stuff in the range of Mastercam 2 and 3. Small cams could be useful to place in horizontal under the roof Variation. Placed a couple of stoppers, one with an oppositional to hold it in place.

The less-difficult sections did not have as many opportunities to protect as the crux dihedral at mid-level (... more >>


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : g. V3 - Middle Earth : On Any Monday (5.11-)
By: kenr When: Jun 3, 2015

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Comments: Crux might be fairly height+reach dependent.
We did it on top-rope. My partner was much taller, and it seemed that he could reach rock features which I could not -- not actual holds, but things he could use to pull/push himself more easily into balance over a critical dicey foothold at the upper crux. Not to mention that because he was taller his body was already more in balance over that foothold.

So he could get the move (with difficulty), while I could not even come close. But maybe I just ... more >>


Location: NY : Ramapo Powerlinez (Torne Va... : Stockade Wall
By: kenr When: May 30, 2015

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Comments: As of the Adopt-a-Crag work day in May 2015, the base of the climbs was well trimmed for climbing access. And access to the big rocks on the wall above the Stockade (for possible Top-Rope anchors) was well trimmed.


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