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Member Since: Oct 29, 2010
Last Visit: 4 hours ago
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All (510) | Routes (16) | Areas (2) | Photos (14) | Comments (143) | Posts (269) | Stars (49) | Ratings (17)
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Matthes Crest : North ridge of Matthes Cres... (5.8)
By: kenr When: Sep 20, 2013

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Comments: Variation 2: This is a way to completely avoid both mini-towers, along with avoiding the wide flat section of the ridge which is N or the mini-towers. (A less radical way to avoid the mini-towers is Variation 1 in the Description above.)

alternate Start: To use Variation 2 as an alternate start of the climbing, after hiking the Approach to get S past the Echo Peaks and Echo Ridge, hike farther S down along below the W side of the Matthes Crest. You will see the two highest summits rou... more >>


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Matthes Crest : North ridge of Matthes Cres... (5.8)
By: kenr When: Sep 19, 2013

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Comments: My questions for the Matthes Crest are: What are the most remarkable rock structures and interesting climbing sequences? How can I do those in the most fun way? How can I make sure I don't run out of time or weather before I get to those?

I had already done lots of nice ridge-traverse routes in Europe and USA, so I wasn't mainly interested to just "tick off" one more. Instead I wanted to experience what makes Matthes special.

My answers so far are that the most interesting rock and climbing ar... more >>


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Near Trapps : a. Beginning of cliff to Ge... : Gelsa (5.4)
By: kenr When: Sep 7, 2013

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Comments: I figured out why we were having trouble with the end of the low long traverse. There's one way which is easier for somebody like 5' 6" or taller and another way which is do-able at a wider range of reach/heights. I continued horizontally even farther left, around the outside corner, down a little into a wide L-facing corner - next to the Roseland bolts-and-chains anchor. (I guess that's the lower "alcove" in the description above?) Then up the L-facing corner over a bulge, then back R around th... more >>


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : h. The Arrow Wall - CCK : Moonlight (5.6)
By: kenr When: Sep 6, 2013

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Comments: A #4 camalot (or two) could be useful for the P1 crux off the first big ledge. The non-positive moves keep coming for longer than you'd expect for a Gunks 6. Both ledge-hit and swing-hit potential? It's a bit of shock the first thing in the morning. (If you just want to focus on the semi-famous situations of P2, consider leading P1 of Updraft, since most of the rest of Moonlight P1 is fairly easy anyway).

If you only have one #4, consider placing it for the first move into the P1 tr... more >>


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : h. The Arrow Wall - CCK : Cascading Crystal Kaleidosc... (5.8 PG13)
By: kenr When: Sep 5, 2013

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Comments: P2 option 2 may indeed be better protected than the others as an option if you're 5ft9in -- but also pretty height/reach dependent if less than that. Pretty exciting at 5ft7in to lunge for the bigger more positive higher hold (sorta blind, up over the bulge). If much less than 5ft7in, making a long deadpoint for it must be just an act of faith.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Mt. Conness : West Ridge, Mount Conness (5.6)
By: kenr When: Sep 1, 2013

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Comments: Yes Ryan, those photos do make the navigation simpler. Thanks a lot for posting them.

Now for those of us who reach the W ridge by some other way (e.g. first climbing the N Ridge route) and want to then descend the more southerly approach route ... We need another set of photos shot from the other direction - (You would't happen to have those too?)


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Peak 11,357
By: kenr When: Aug 31, 2013

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Comments: Peak 11,357 ft is not the same as Rafferty Peak, whose summit has a lower altitude of 11,100 ft.

Peak 11357 ft is somewhere around latitude/longitude approx (37.8033,-119.3637) = (N37.8033 W119.3637)
which is about 1 mile away somewhere SW from Rafferty.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Peak 11,357 : Boss Man (5.11)
By: kenr When: Aug 31, 2013

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Comments: Peak 11,357 ft is somewhere around latitude/longitude approx (37.8033,-119.3637) = (N37.8033 W119.3637)

It's not the same as Rafferty Peak, whose summit has lower altitude of 11,100 ft. Rather ... peak 11,357 is something like 1 mile somewhere SW from Rafferty.


Location: CA : High Sierra
By: kenr When: Aug 30, 2013

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Comments: Crystal Crag is a dramatic peak with some great narrow ridge climbing set among wonderful lakes -- with a short easy approach from near the town of Mammoth Lakes --> see on map

See MountainProject page under "Sierra Eastside" region for
alpine / multi-pitch routes on Crystal Crag


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Mammoth Lakes Area : Crystal Crag : alpine / multi-pitch : Aretes of Crystal Crag dire... (5.6)
By: kenr When: Aug 29, 2013

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Comments: I think this is comparable to some of the great easy arete routes in Europe, and (unlike some famous Sierra ridges) with a Euro-style shortness + convenience of approach.

My first route on Crystal Crag was the so-called "North Arete" route with Sharon. But threat (later reality) of afternoon thunder made us stop at the Middle summit and descended the W face from there. So I was disappointed with the shortness and ungreatness of the arete climbing.

Thanks to the Comments I got the hint that the... more >>


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Mammoth Lakes Area : Crystal Crag : North Arete : North ArÍte (5.6)
By: kenr When: Aug 29, 2013

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Comments: The name of this climb is misleading, since most of the upward climbing is not on the arete. The first 3 (or 2) pitches are on the W side of the arete (not warm if starting early in the morning).

The summit arete as far as the Middle summit (where we and many parties down-climb off the ridge) is welcome + nice, but not in the same league as the high-ridge granite of the Tuolumne Meadows aretes. The really good arete moves + rock start just after the notch between the Middle and South s... more >>


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Mammoth Lakes Area : Crystal Crag : North Arete
By: kenr When: Aug 21, 2013

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Comments: This peak really does have wonderful top-10-in-the-world easy narrow-ridge arete climbing on good granite. Unfortunately many parties end their climb at the Middle summit and descend the W face from near the notch between the Middle and (highest) South summits. But that's where the great arete climbing starts.

To make sure to get to do the great arete climbing on this peak (and without so much loose rock), try this route... more >>


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Cathedral Range : Cathedral Range Traverse (Easy 5th)
By: kenr When: Aug 20, 2013

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Comments: Trip Reports for this traverse on other websites:

which Direction? clockwise or counter-clockwise?
The advantages I see in starting with Cathedral is that
  • ensures that you have time and energy to do Cathedral Peak.
  • SE or E side of Cathedr...
 more >>


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Mammoth Lakes Area : Crystal Crag : North Arete : North ArÍte (5.6)
By: kenr When: Aug 18, 2013

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Comments: There are three worthwhile things about this climb: the traverse along the narrow summit ridge, the short high section of bright-white crystal, and views over the lakes.

The first 3 or 2 pitches upward are a means to get up high to those three things. As a climbing route section, those pitches are just a "one move wonder" 5.6 with lots of loose rock that is not on narrow ridge/arete. So the game is just to get through them quickly and safely, with plenty of time and energy lef... more >>


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Tenaya Peak : Tenaya, Matthes, Cathedral ... (5.7)
By: kenr When: Aug 17, 2013

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Comments: Very worthwhile, after traversing to the N end of Matthes Crest, is to climb next the East arete of Echo Ridge. Its upper section is yet another knife edge ridge. Mostly class 3 moves but very sustained and exposed. For maximum fun, take it exactly on the top of the arete whereever possible: "balls over the razor". Or if hanging to the side, then switch sides frequently -- and look for chances to hang off the steeper side. (But I did bypass one high fin).

More on traversing Echo Ridge and Peaks... more >>


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Cathedral Peak : Southeast Buttress (5.6)
By: kenr When: Aug 17, 2013

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Comments: Descent
As of August 2013, the route around the East side of the rock peak is a improved trail -- even with some stone steps (and official-looking carabiner-icon signs near its top and bottom). Anything near the E side not on that trail is forbidden as part of a plant restoration zone.

The descent from the summit goes roughly like this:
Just below SW side of summit block, go down steep about 12 ft on double cracks - (positive holds or jams, but not all obvious or straightforward... more >>


Location: CA : High Sierra : Laurel Mountain : Mendenhall Couloir (4th)
By: kenr When: Aug 14, 2013

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Comments: Navigation ...
To my surprise yesterday on Laurel Mt, the tracks I had put onto my GPS turned out to be rather useful (and accurate) for doing both the climb and the descent.
The tracks I followed are linked from this page .

Some detailed directions for my descent as I remember it ...
. (these are for the steepest most difficult "N then E" option) .

From the summit of Laurel Mt, follow a vague track roughly N about 500 meters dist... more >>


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Tenaya Peak : Northwest Buttress (5.3)
By: kenr When: Aug 14, 2013

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Comments: Approach
As of August 2013, I didn't think the approach was that difficult to follow. There's a .GPX file with a track for GPS navigation linked from this page .

Or here's some instructions:
From the parking lot 200m NE from the NE corner of Tenaya Lake (GPS latitude/longitude ~ N37.8378 W119.4518), walk on the paved trail to the beach roughly S about 300 meters, but before reaching the beach, where the paved trail curves R, continue str... more >>


Location: CA : High Sierra : Laurel Mountain : Mendenhall Couloir (4th)
By: kenr When: Aug 14, 2013

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Comments: Joined three very experienced Bishop climbers to do it today (with no rope). Some of us were thinking this is about the longest stretch of reasonably good easy rock in the Sierra.

At least two of us felt there was at least one 5.4 move. Most of the hard moves are near the bottom, but then there's one more like 3/4 the way up. The most recent guidebook rates this route 5.2

The harder moves mostly have slabby feet, so I recommend wearing shoes with sticky climbing rubber. I did it in my approach... more >>


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Mt. Conness : North Ridge (Easy 5th)
By: kenr When: Aug 12, 2013

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Comments: Did it yesterday ... Lots of fun interesting climbing and opportunities for exposure in the upper third, if you stay exactly on the crest as much as possible. I suspect in the upper section lots of people get over-eager to just "get to the top" and start just following the "line of least resistance".

Approach is mostly friendly and pretty (except the steep dirt near the top), but I missed the most efficient line, which holds close to the North side of valley which runs east down from t... more >>


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Mt. Conness : West Ridge, Mount Conness (5.6)
By: kenr When: Aug 12, 2013

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Comments:
  • Very worthy add-on for those who get to the top with extra time and energy:
Down-climb the upper section of the North ridge ... likely easier if often go a little below the crest on the SW side ... but stop somewhere before reaching the gap by the "second tower". Then
climb up the N ridge but now trying to stay as close to the crest as possible.

  • Alternate descent: Down-climb the whole North Ridge (as LeeAB pointed out). It's a good...
 more >>


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Tenaya Peak : Tenaya, Matthes, Cathedral ... (5.7)
By: kenr When: Aug 10, 2013

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Comments: The idea of adding the Unicorn and Cockscomb is now included here on MountainProject (as of August 2013) in a different traverse route -- see
northwest Cathedral Range Traverse

Ideas for climbing or traversing Matthes Crest from its North end are now in this route description


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Mt. Conness
By: kenr When: Aug 8, 2013

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Comments: Approach details also in the Comments on the MP West Ridge page.

GPX file containing key latitude/longitude waypoints and some useful tracks for approach is linked from this page .


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Mt. Conness : West Ridge, Mount Conness (5.6)
By: kenr When: Aug 8, 2013

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Comments: Detailed description of approach from Saddlebag Lake area (east side).
It is helpful to combine this description with the photos + description on www.dreaminvertical.com/?p=1793 , and of course the description in the book High Sierra Climbing, by Chris McNamara (SuperTopo 2004).

GPX file containing all latitude/longitude waypoints in the following description (and some useful tracks) is linked from this page... more >>


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Mt. Conness : West Ridge, Mount Conness (5.6)
By: kenr When: Aug 8, 2013

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Comments: Doing it from the Saddlebag Lake area (East side) is a long ways in. Around 4 miles and +2500 vertical feet (7km and +760 vert meters). Which might not sound so bad. But that includes +2050 vertical feet (+625 meters) off-trail, so harder and slower, especially if carrying a rope and some sort of Trad rack.
And it includes 1725 vertical feet (525 vert meters) of descending, all off-trail.

Also fairly high altitude. Merely the approach goes over 12,200 ft (3725 meters) altitude... more >>


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