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Member Since: Oct 29, 2010
Last Visit: 7 hours ago
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Point Rank: # 985
Total Points: 619
Last Year: 406
Last 30 Days: 143
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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All 689 | Routes 17 | Areas 6 | Photos 36 | Page Improvments | Comments 179 | Posts 371 | Stars 61 | Ratings 19
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : High Sierra : Little Lakes Peak : NNW Ridge direct (5.6)
By: kenr When: 6 hours ago

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Comments: I tried this as a solo climb on a day when the weather did not invite anything harder or longer. I'd seen a report that the traverse over Little Lakes Peak to Mt Morgan had pretty views. I assumed that meant starting with the SW ridge of LLPk, which is also mentioned in the Moynier+Fiddler book. I check in the Secor book and it mentioned that the NW ridge was enjoyable. That would make it a shorter loop to fit the weather forecast, so that's that I chose.

The trail and off-trail hiking approach... more >>


Location: CA : High Sierra : Mt. Emerson : Southeast Face (aka the Wat... (5.4)
By: kenr When: Jul 24, 2014

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Comments: Some statistics ...
  • approach to start of 5th class climbing from official day-visitor Parking:
. . about 2000 vertical feet over 2.5 miles horizontal
. . / ( +600 meters over 4 km distance )

  • start of 5th class climbing to summit
. . about 2000 vertical feet over 0.5 mile horizontal
. . / ( +600 meters over 0.8km distance)

  • summit ridge climbing (including upper descent section NW from summit)
. . about 1100 ft horizontal (330 meters)

  • Total from official Parking to summit
. . abo... more >>


Location: CA : High Sierra : Mt. Emerson : Southeast Face (aka the Wat... (5.4)
By: kenr When: Jul 24, 2014

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Comments: Had a lot of fun on it today.
The summit ridge is great, and continued for longer than I expected. The starting moves are interesting, and there's lots of other good gully climbing. And it's worthwhile as routefinding "adventure" out in the middle of this big face -- not sure when's the best time to switch to a different gully, where to get on the ridge, etc.

But it has more drawbacks than some other great Sierra ridge routes: The descent of the south face on sand and scree is not fun at all, a... more >>


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : a. The Uberfall : Junior (5.9+ R)
By: kenr When: Jul 19, 2014

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Comments: Interesting crux sequence. Worthwhile as top-rope with directional from Laurel anchor bolts.
(Not surprisingly, much more difficult if much shorter than 5ft7in / 170cm with normal reach.)


Location: NY : Ramapo Powerlinez (Torne Va... : The Good Book Wall : Rachel (5.10b)
By: kenr When: Jul 12, 2014

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Comments: I suspect the first semi-blind reach at the crux overhang is way harder for people much less tall than 5ft6inch. And then the third reach is pretty long too.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : a. The Uberfall : Horseman (5.5)
By: kenr When: Jul 12, 2014

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Comments: I found the big corner / dihedral had lots of awkward moves. Not many with elegant stemming, and fewer of those if your legs aren't fairly long.

Overall a interesting + great climb, but don't be surprised if you can't find an elegant way to do much of the dihedral.

I think the direct variation (continuing up the corner where it gets overhanging along left side of roof) is pretty fun (though likely much harder for people less tall than 5ft5inch).


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : a. The Uberfall : Boston (5.5 PG13)
By: kenr When: Jul 12, 2014

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Comments: At last got the whole thing with no chimney-ing, squirming, or jamming whatsoever. Pretty enjoyable and satisfying that way.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : b. Jackie and friends : Miss Bailey (5.6 PG13)
By: kenr When: Jul 12, 2014

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Comments: Lots of variety and some interesting moves -- but much of that is in the chimney sections. So you really have to be ready for serious chimney -- and most people nowadays (including me) are not.

The overhangs on P3 are intimidating and strenuous, but not that interesting. And surely harder than 5.6. Perhaps each single move is within 5.6, but the sequences are pretty sustained (and a couple of key moves lack footholds).

I found the exit from the lower chimney interesting and not awkward -- prov... more >>


Location: NY : Ramapo Powerlinez (Torne Va... : Stockade Wall : Crankenstein (5.11- PG13)
By: kenr When: Jun 18, 2014

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Comments: Start is just a few feet left of the three left-leaning cracks (the cracks of Once Was Choss But Now Is Found and Dave's A-Peelin')


Location: NY : Ramapo Powerlinez (Torne Va... : Stockade Wall
By: kenr When: Jun 18, 2014

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Comments: We climbed there recently, seemed like interesting moves on nice rock. Seemed about 40-50 feet high. The top of Stockade (GPS latitude longitude approx N41.14495 W74.16497) is at the same level as the bottom of the Tower Wall, located a short ways east of the east end of the Tower Wall. With some tricky scrambling, it is possible connect between the bottom of the Tower Wall and the west side of the bottom of Stockade Wall. Or there is a use trail up to the cliff bottom from the dirt road to its ... more >>


Location: NY : Ramapo Powerlinez (Torne Va... : The Tower Wall : The Red Knob (5.7+)
By: kenr When: Jun 18, 2014

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Comments: We belayed the TR from above (nice spot for belayer to sit a little below cliff top), with two directionals placed on down-climb -- followed the finish toward Left as in description above. Thought that made a very interesting route (even if it's not the correct one doing it on lead).

Note that with road noise it's not easy to communicate between top and bottom.


Location: NY : Ramapo Powerlinez (Torne Va...
By: kenr When: Jun 18, 2014

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Comments: Basilisk Wall:

getting there: Go to the bottom of Tower Wall, then continue west on the same level past Three Bears and Daves Wall. Then past the right turn for the trail uphill to Good Book Wall. Then fairly flat and roughly west past the various "Lenapehocking" boulders, until you see something that matches the photos in the Crefeld guidebook. Basilisk Right is reasonably clean rock with lots of crack features. Past that is some lichen-covered rock. Then a fairly clean face w... more >>


Location: NY : Ramapo Powerlinez (Torne Va... : The Good Book Wall
By: kenr When: Jun 18, 2014

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Comments: After the new trail work is finished, I'm not sure the approach will be an "orange" trail.

Anyway after passing under the Tower Wall and going gentle for a ways past Three Bears and Daves Wall, the trail for Good Book Wall turns right and climbs uphill long before you reach Basilisk Wall. I think the Right turn comes around
latitude longitude (N41.14523 W74.16670).


Location: NY : Ramapo Powerlinez (Torne Va... : The Good Book Wall : Harpoon Me (5.9)
By: kenr When: Jun 18, 2014

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Comments: We did with a rope from the top, anchored with a static line to a tree farther back, hanging it over the edge roughly halfway between two trees near the edge.

I guess I did the either the 5.10 variation or the Whalehunter finish - (I guess I'll know better which after I get the time to try Whalehunter). Anyway it was all very interesting climbing.


Location: NY : Ramapo Powerlinez (Torne Va... : The Tower Wall : Ogre Arete (5.9)
By: kenr When: Jun 6, 2014

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Comments: To me felt like had lots of demanding thoughtful moves -- but not necessarily the most fun kind.


Location: NY : Ramapo Powerlinez (Torne Va... : The Tower Wall : Rachel's Crack (5.8-)
By: kenr When: Jun 6, 2014

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Comments: Not much jamming, but lots of interesting moves. We finished right of the vertical "torpedo" because that way seemed like an easy way to set top-rope (with belay from bottom) without directionals, and all of us found that the right-side finish was the crux (but really isn't that the finish of the Johnson Route?)

Note that the start of this route is also the start of a different (rather interesting) route (which traverses left off from Rachel's) -- see Tower Wall Direct... more >>


Location: NY : Ramapo Powerlinez (Torne Va... : The Tower Wall : No Rest for the Wicked (5.9+)
By: kenr When: Jun 6, 2014

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Comments: Lots of interesting moves. For me it required some clever maneuvering to get through the last 10-15 feet (without using the Back to the Wall finish).

Top-rope did not require directionals, but very difficult to set up TR to achieve all of: avoid rope drag, monitor possible abrasion on anchor materials, and belay from the bottom. So I'd recommend plan on belaying from the top.


Location: NY : Ramapo Powerlinez (Torne Va... : The Tower Wall : Back to the Wall (5.7+ PG13)
By: kenr When: Jun 6, 2014

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Comments: Lots of interesting moves with variety.
Top-rope did not require directionals, but very difficult to set up TR to achieve all of: avoid rope drag, monitor possible abrasion on anchor materials, and belay from the bottom. So I'd recommend plan on belaying from the top.


Location: NY : West Point : Poison Ivy Wall
By: kenr When: Jun 5, 2014

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Comments: Parking change as of May 2014 ...
Sharon and I drove down to the marina on the train tracks alongside the River (south of the cliff) to park. Saw a new sign said parking is no longer allowed as of May 1, 2014. Just a couple weeks ago before in April I had paid the guy $5 and parked there.

I went over and talked to him, and he said his insurance would no longer allow parking. Suggested we park up at the West Point Visitors center instead.

So I left Sharon and our rope and draws and packs at the... more >>


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : h. The Arrow Wall - CCK : Modern Times (5.8+)
By: kenr When: Jun 4, 2014

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Comments: My theory about why the 8+ grade is retained low for P2, and the grade of P1 seemes (to me) elevated at 7 for P1 ... is for enthusiasts for the route to avoid admitting that most of the route is much easier than the one crux sequence - (unlike Son of Easy O). My memory was that most of the climbing on both pitches is in the 5.4-5 range, with a brief 6 (or maybe 7- ?) overhang on P1.

Not that the lengthy 5.4-5 sections are boring -- I found them interesting (but not brilliant) for 5.4-5

I thin... more >>


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : c. Frog's Head - the Arch : Pas de Deux (5.8)
By: kenr When: Jun 3, 2014

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Comments: On P1, people I was climbing with thought it was easier to continue the hand traverse left on past the obvious crack from below and continue several feet past the crack leading above. Then a mantle up to a stance, then back right and up to join the obvious crack above a bit higher. Which also seems to be what the Williams guidebook suggests.

I've done the more obvious way of starting up in the crack immediately from the hand traverse three times, and I like it -- but delicate,... more >>


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : e. The Mac Wall (Something ... : Credibility Gap (5.6)
By: kenr When: Jun 3, 2014

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Comments: There is a very secure cam placement out near the edge of the crux roof on P1 -- but consider that removing that piece might be rather strenuous and intimidating for your follower -- and they might then lose their appetite for actually for actually performing the crux moves.
So I'd recommend taking some thought about which piece and how to place it -- and some explicit communication with follower about how they should remove it.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : b. Jackie and friends : Betty (5.3)
By: kenr When: Jun 3, 2014

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Comments: Did a P2 variation which skips the fun unique first chimney of P2. Sharon liked it so much she asked to be lowered back in to climb it again. Seemed like 5.6- and protection seemed typical Gunks placing cams in horizontal cracks.

Left Direct Nose P2 variation:
From the P1 belay ledge, start about 15-20 feet left from the chimney corner, a bit left of the nose. Diagonal right (loose block as of 2014) onto the nose and straight up it (passing left of the notch with tree, which is on the m... more >>


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : b. Jackie and friends : Raubenheimer Special (5.7 PG13)
By: kenr When: Jun 3, 2014

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Comments: Lots of credit to gblauer for leading P1. The crux for taller people is a delicate move on the arete. But for somebody much less than 5'7" with normal reach, the next move after that is much harder than 5.7

For a better P2, I nominate aiming for the nose a bit left of Betty - (see "Left Direct Nose P2 variation" in the Comments under Betty).


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Near Trapps : a. Beginning of cliff to Ge... : Land of The Giants (5.7)
By: kenr When: May 29, 2014

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Comments: Climbed it yesterday, enjoyed it.
I'm much less than 6 feet tall, and just above the old piton did seem like the hardest move. But I did not find it to be a "big" move -- rather it took some clever footwork and balance. I'm sure that there's some human body height+reach below which the move is much harder, but I don't think 6 feet tall is where the divider comes.


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