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Member Since: Oct 29, 2010
Last Visit: 8 hours ago
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Point Rank: # 490
Total Points: 1,326
Last Year: 925
Last 30 Days: 74
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 1149 | Routes 44 | Areas 12 | Photos 87 | Page Improvements 7 | Comments 252 | Posts 579 | Stars 120 | Ratings 48
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: MD : Rocks State Park : Breakaway Wall
By: kenr When: 7 hours ago

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Comments: I visited and scrambled around exploring one day in May 2015. What I found was ...

In theory the wide ledge at the bottom of the Breakaway wall could be reached by scrambling up west from the route 24 road. But I found this was steep slabby dirty -- not something I'd ever do hauling gear or with ground even slightly wet. Also there's no legal parking along the road by there. Although that approach was mentioned in an old guidebook, it did not look like hardly anybody does that any more (now tha... more >>


Location: MD : Rocks State Park
By: kenr When: 7 hours ago

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Comments: I recorded some (approximate) locations with my GPS when I visited and climbed in May 2015:

parking lot low "rapids" -- (latitude longitude N39.6381 W76.4125)
. on the West side of route 24, just N of a maintenance building.
. about 1.15 mile north from the intersection with Cherry Hill Rd
. about 0.35 mile north from the intersection with Rocks Chrome Hill Rd
. about 0.25 mile south from the intersection with St Clair Bridge Rd

parking lot high "picnic" -- (N39.6351 W76.4158)
. reached by d... more >>


Location: PA : South Central PA : Shaffer Rocks (The Hermitag... : Main Wall
By: kenr When: 16 hours ago

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Comments: getting there: What we did was walk about 75 meters roughly East from the parking (GPS latitude longitude approx N39.81204 W77.48292) on the wide trail msrked with blue paint. Then turned Left off that and walked 50 meters roughly North to the top of the cliff (which our GPS gave as lat long (N39.81260 W77.48194).

The pinnacle whose North face forms the left (East) side of the main wall has approx latitude longitude (N39.81255 W77.48152).

Hermitage Cabin: Our GPS places the cabin at lat long (... more >>


Location: PA : South Central PA : Shaffer Rocks (The Hermitag... : Main Wall : Hipster (5.5)
By: kenr When: 16 hours ago

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Comments: Not sure from this description (because it's relative to the other climbs who's location I'm not sure of), but I'm assuming it means
the obvious gully (rather wide at its bottom) - which is 10-15 feet left from the Grungie gully (which is about 10 feet left of the obvious Blazing Saddles inside corner) - and to the right of Leap of Faith.

I wouldn't call it a "crack system", just a gully which is wide at the bottom and gets narrow higher up. Gets steeper higher up, but I might call it a "shall... more >>


Location: PA : South Central PA : Shaffer Rocks (The Hermitag... : Main Wall : Blazing Saddles (5.6)
By: kenr When: 17 hours ago

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Comments: The main overhang is pretty close to the ground. Higher up the corner leans overhanging (but the climbing moves are not necessarily overhanging). Thoughtful moves the whole way, pretty sustained in difficulty.

Indirect variation (5.4): Start by climbing the first 10-15 feet of the Grungie gully (left of Blazing Saddles inside corner). Then bear right into the wide inside corner between Grungie and Blazing Saddles. Climb up this to just below a little roof, then step right into the Blazin... more >>


Location: PA : South Central PA : Shaffer Rocks (The Hermitag... : Main Wall : Rappel Crack (5.6)
By: kenr When: 17 hours ago

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Comments: location: This route is the obvious crack which starts about 10-15 feet off the ground -- to the right of Yellow Pages (and to the right of Rotary and RC Direct?) -- and to the left of Vision of Stem (and to the left of Unappreciated?)

start: One guidebook suggests starting on Leap of Faith and up diagonally right to join the Crack. Perhaps a little easier (and sufficiently interesting) is to start on Vision of Stem then go left to the bottom of the Crack. Or the

Direct start Va... more >>


Location: PA : South Central PA : Shaffer Rocks (The Hermitag... : Main Wall : Grungie Face (5.4)
By: kenr When: 17 hours ago

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Comments: Going straight up the face which is to the left of the Grungie Gully (and to the right of another gully: ? Hipster ?)
is not remotely 5.4

To get something like 5.4, start by climbing up the Grungie gully for about 10 feet, to where there is a wide ledge to the left. Then go up with two more steps on footholds on the ridge along the right side of the Grungie gully. Then go left onto the face and starting from there, climb up the face between the two gullies.
. (Going higher with feet o... more >>


Location: MD : Rocks State Park : Biceps Wall : The Crux (5.5)
By: kenr When: 2 days ago

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Comments: Lots of fun moves on great holds. One or two long strenuous reaches that make it way harder than 5.5 even though the holds are positive.

If this were the second pitch of some 5.7 route in the Gunks, it would be famous.


Location: NY : Ramapo Powerlinez (Torne Va... : Puzzle Palace Wall : Fang This! (5.10-)
By: kenr When: 4 days ago

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Comments: Interesting outdoor moves in the lower half, then a nice finish.


Location: NY : Ramapo Powerlinez (Torne Va... : Puzzle Palace Wall : Hogwarts (5.9+)
By: kenr When: 4 days ago

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Comments: Sustained fun thoughtful moves. If only this were longer. Might seem like 5.10 the first time.


Location: NY : Ramapo Powerlinez (Torne Va... : Puzzle Palace Wall : Diagon Alley (5.8)
By: kenr When: 4 days ago

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Comments: Interesting outdoor moves.


Location: NY : Ramapo Powerlinez (Torne Va... : Puzzle Palace Wall : Buckbeek (5.9+)
By: kenr When: 4 days ago

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Comments: Interesting thoughtful moves.
Seemed fun to start to the right of below the pillar, then to its left, then onto the pillar.


Location: NY : Ramapo Powerlinez (Torne Va... : Puzzle Palace Wall : The Handle (5.9)
By: kenr When: 4 days ago

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Comments: Perhaps more interesting to start low right, close to protruding flake on the left side of Buckbeek.


Location: NY : Ramapo Powerlinez (Torne Va... : Basilisk Wall : Paper Mache (5.10)
By: kenr When: 4 days ago

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Comments: Fun climbing on TR. I'll do it again.


Location: NY : Ramapo Powerlinez (Torne Va... : Basilisk Wall : Chopper Noise (5.9)
By: kenr When: 4 days ago

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Comments: Fun climbing on TR. I'll do it again.


Location: NY : Ramapo Powerlinez (Torne Va... : Basilisk Wall : Chossy? (5.10)
By: kenr When: 4 days ago

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Comments: Seemed much harder than 10. Lots of lichen covering.


Location: NY : Ramapo Powerlinez (Torne Va... : Basilisk Wall : Earth Dragon (5.9 PG13)
By: kenr When: 4 days ago

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Comments: Fun up through the crux by the sapling. After that lots of dirty slopers. So if you like slopers, you might like this climb more -- but perhaps you'll want to clean them first.


Location: NY : Ramapo Powerlinez (Torne Va... : Basilisk Wall : Billy Get Your Guns (5.8 PG13)
By: kenr When: 4 days ago

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Comments: Lower half was interesting, upper half less fun.


Location: NY : Ramapo Powerlinez (Torne Va... : Dave's Wall : Fifty foot of love (5.10+ PG13)
By: kenr When: May 14, 2015

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Comments: The grammar of the title is copied from the 2011 print guidebook.

Nice variety of interesting moves. Too bad it's not longer. There are regions of USA where this route would be 5.11


Location: NY : Ramapo Powerlinez (Torne Va... : Dave's Wall : Thread the Gap (5.9 R)
By: kenr When: May 14, 2015

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Comments: I suspect the difficulty move to get up to the roof is height-related -- as in much harder if you're much less tall than 5ft 7inch (170cm) with normal reach.

My feeling is that the moves from the ground up to roof were interesting and thoughtful and fun. The moves through the rough were thoughtful and strenuous but did not feel so fun.

An older print guidebook offered this name for this route: Roofy Indirect Project. (I like the title above on this page better).


Location: NY : Ramapo Powerlinez (Torne Va... : The Tower Wall : Johnson Route (5.7+)
By: kenr When: Apr 6, 2015

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Comments: The obvious Top-Rope set from the rappel tree at the top of cliff goes down over the upper part of Johnson, on the climber's right side of the vertical "torpedo". So an obvious TR line is to start on Rachels Crack then traverse Right under the torpedo to finish on Johnson. Though doing all of Johnson from the bottom as a TR works fine also. Likely most climbers begin with some combination of Rachels and Johnson.


Location: NY : West Point : Poison Ivy Wall
By: kenr When: Mar 13, 2015

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Comments: I had the good luck a couple of weeks ago to run into a climber who knew lots more about the history and legalities than me -- said itís too bad about the complexity of access to the PI Wall now with the change in policy of the railroad. Likely that influenced the USMA climbing team to decide not to hold their PI Wall festival/competition in Fall 2014.

Said that walking in alongside the train tracks is trespassing on railroad company right-of-way. But hiking in from the south across the hillsid... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Second Pullout : The Black Corridor : Upper Level : 757 2x4 (5.7)
By: kenr When: Dec 2, 2014

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Comments: Overall fun, with a variety of move situations. Thoughtful right off the ground. Thoughtful at the crux mid-way.

An advantage of the higher positiong of top anchor is can use that to protect horizontal traverse Left to the top anchor of "Oils Well That Ends Well".


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Whitney/Lone Pine Area : Alabama Hills : The Tall Wall : Bananarama (5.8)
By: kenr When: Nov 28, 2014

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Comments: Seemed not quite as difficult, not quite as thoughtful, as Rotten Bananas to its left.
Lots of fun moves on positive holds, well worth doing.

Leading this Sport route is also useful to afterward get down and right to reach the top anchor for Banana Split to set a Top-Rope on that route (which otherwise would require leading on big-size Trad gear).


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Whitney/Lone Pine Area : Alabama Hills : The Tall Wall : Spur (5.7)
By: kenr When: Nov 28, 2014

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Comments: Fun route. Some people get confused about what to do high on the arete, so for them it's less fun.
Perhaps easier (and more fun?) if do not always climb close to the bolt line.


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