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Member Since: Oct 29, 2010
Last Visit: 17 hours ago
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Point Rank: # 516
Total Points: 1,207
Last Year: 806
Last 30 Days: 52
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has kenr been climbing?










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All 931 | Routes 42 | Areas 11 | Photos 77 | Page Improvements 4 | Comments 225 | Posts 451 | Stars 96 | Ratings 25
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: NY : Ramapo Powerlinez (Torne Va... : Swamp King : Frog Spit (5.7)
By: kenr When: Sep 27, 2014

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Comments: One tough move in the middle, and the rest is interesting enough.


Location: NY : Ramapo Powerlinez (Torne Va... : Swamp King : White Lightning (5.9)
By: kenr When: Sep 27, 2014

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Comments: Interesting thoughtful moves. If only this route were longer.


Location: NY : Ramapo Powerlinez (Torne Va... : The Good Book Wall : The Sins of the Father (5.10+)
By: kenr When: Sep 24, 2014

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Comments: I will guess that the first crux (which I did not get on Top-Rope) is into the 11 range.

Not sure what the upper half is supposed to be ("challenging finish"?).
Continuing the obvious way up the R-facing corner is interesting climbing, but nowhere near the given 10+ difficulty. I'm guessing perhaps the idea is to finish on the face to the left of the corner?


Location: NY : Ramapo Powerlinez (Torne Va... : The Good Book Wall : The Sins of the Son (5.10+)
By: kenr When: Sep 24, 2014

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Comments: Lots of the key holds are positive horizontals -- so it's reachy. There are some long-ish deadpoints at 5ft7inch height. I'd guess for anyone much less than 5ft7inch tall (170cm) with normal reach, it really is like 10+


Location: PA : Northeast Ridges and Valley... : Mocanaqua (Shickshinny) : Main Wall : Guido (5.8+ PG13)
By: kenr When: Sep 21, 2014

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Comments: I think the ceiling to the left of this route's start -- about 10 feet up with a bolt just above it -- is called "Meatball", around 5.10a. Interesting moves over the roof (I did it on top-rope).
Then it's not clear to me how to distinguish upper section of Meatball from upper section of Guido - (I assume the bolts farther left are for the Stardust route). Anyway interesting enough on top-rope.

We also used the first ten feet of Guido as an alternate (more fun?) start for Beginners Crack. And i... more >>


Location: PA : Northeast Ridges and Valley... : Mocanaqua (Shickshinny) : Main Wall : Beginner's Crack (5.6)
By: kenr When: Sep 21, 2014

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Comments: Lots of interesting thoughtful moves.

Many beginners will find the low-mid crux (about 25 feet up) perplexing.

But almost all beginners will find the upper traverse leftward not only perplexing but strenuous for finger-grip. And with any fall subject to substantial side-swing if done as top-rope from either of the cliff-top bolt-pair anchors.

Better for real beginners is to try the "Beginners Top-Rope Face" route first, which offers less-complicated lessons in beginner techniques.
Then plan ... more >>


Location: NY : Ramapo Powerlinez (Torne Va... : The Tower Wall : Back to the Wall (5.7+ PG13)
By: kenr When: Sep 19, 2014

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Comments: Yes going directly up over the lower-middle bulge (perhaps more toward its left side) adds some interesting challenge for the Follower.

Higher is another (harder) variation for the Follower is (instead of diagonaling left to the upper arete), to go straight up toward the upper bulge, then traverse left close under the bulge to join the arete higher up.


Location: PA : Northeast Ridges and Valley... : Mocanaqua (Shickshinny) : The Library : Main Block, Front Side
By: kenr When: Aug 24, 2014

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Comments: Many people like to lead the (bolted) Warm Up Route (on the back wall of the main block) to set up Top-Ropes for routes on this front wall.
Note that the lower half of that route is way harder than 5.6, and does have ledge-hit fall potential.


Location: PA : Northeast Ridges and Valley... : Mocanaqua (Shickshinny) : The Library : Main Block, Back Side
By: kenr When: Aug 24, 2014

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Comments: Many people like to lead the (bolted) Warm Up Route to set up Top-Ropes for routes on this wall (also for routes on the Front wall of the main block).
Note that the lower half of that route is way harder than 5.6, and does have ledge-hit fall potential.


Location: PA : Northeast Ridges and Valley... : Mocanaqua (Shickshinny) : The Library : Main Block, Back Side
By: kenr When: Aug 24, 2014

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Comments: Bolts for "Easy Day for a Layback" (on the left of Lavwelle Latte) are missing hangers as of August 2014.


Location: PA : Northeast Ridges and Valley... : Mocanaqua (Shickshinny) : The Library : Rear Wall
By: kenr When: Aug 24, 2014

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Comments: Hangers on the bolts on the horizontal rock at the top of this wall are still all missing as of August 2014.

I saw intact rings on one anchor which is in the vertical rock just below the top of this wall.


Location: PA : Northeast Ridges and Valley... : Mocanaqua (Shickshinny) : The Library : Main Block, Back Side : Cornflake Crack (5.7)
By: kenr When: Aug 24, 2014

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Comments: Starts about ten or fifteen feet left of the first bolt for Warmup Route (which is the right-most bolted route on this wall).

The most protectable start is at a thin crack left from below the not-so-thin flake/crack of the upper half of this route. Many leaders will find this harder than 5.7.
(Perhaps more interesting to start even farther left, at the 1-inch crack in the right side of the Grey Nose, then crossing right into the thin crack.)

Variation: Could also start directly below the upper... more >>


Location: PA : Northeast Ridges and Valley... : Mocanaqua (Shickshinny) : The Library : Main Block, Back Side : Warm Up Route (5.6)
By: kenr When: Aug 24, 2014

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Comments: This route is at least 5.8 - (not remotely 5.6).
Several tricky moves, with at least one critical move relying on a small fingerhold.

Work out very carefully the belay / protection methods required to avoid hitting a ledge or bulge if blow one of the moves in the lower half - (? bring a stick-clip ?)
. (I am not suggesting that the bolts are badly placed -- I think the problem is just the structure of the rock).

The first move off the low ledge is much more difficult if have shorter legs.


Location: PA : Northeast Ridges and Valley... : Mocanaqua (Shickshinny) : The Library : Main Block, Back Side : Grey Face (5.9)
By: kenr When: Aug 24, 2014

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Comments: It does not start just right of the Brass Monkey route. Rather there's a wide chimney and at least thirty feet distance between.

It does start at the left side of the low grey nose just left of the lower left thin crack of the Cornflake Crack route. The first bolt is at the top of a small shallow dihedral. The next two bolts are in the clean-looking slab/face a little to the left of the upper right-facing corner which is below a higher top block.


Location: PA : Northeast Ridges and Valley... : Mocanaqua (Shickshinny) : The Library : Main Block, Back Side : Lavwelle Latte (5.8)
By: kenr When: Aug 24, 2014

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Comments: I think it starts behind a living tree.
Just to the right of "Good Day for a Layback" (whose bolts are missing their hangers as of August 2014). Just to the left of "The Murky Way" (bolted).

Somebody said the name of this route means "Milky Way", and that it was named for white streaks that ran down from the bolts that were first installed. But now these streaks are not visible.


Location: PA : Northeast Ridges and Valley... : Mocanaqua (Shickshinny) : The Library : Main Block, Back Side : Brass Monkey (5.8)
By: kenr When: Aug 24, 2014

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Comments: I found no line of bolts between Great Expectations and the arete at the north (right) end of this section of the wall. There were at least three bolts on Great Expectations; and there were at least two bolts very close to the corner / arete at the left side of the obvious wide chimney at the right end of this section of the wall -- but no bolts in between.

The Holtzman guidebook lists Brass Monkey with a protection rating of X.
I don't see how that fits with having three bolts.


Location: PA : Northeast Ridges and Valley... : Mocanaqua (Shickshinny) : The Library : Main Block, Back Side : Flamer (5.11a)
By: kenr When: Aug 24, 2014

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Comments: Now one of the two trees at the bottom has been sawed and removed, so now this route starts between a tree on the left and a stump on the right, about eight feet apart.

Left of "Great Expectations" (bolted) and Right of "The Murky Way" (bolted) - (which is Right of "Lavwelle Latte" (bolted).

. (Might be only three bolts now instead of four?)

Variation (easier but not so well protected) is to traverse Right partway up, then move back Left about eight feet below the small upper roof. Plenty of ... more >>


Location: CA : High Sierra : Mt. Russell
By: kenr When: Aug 16, 2014

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Comments: West summit is higher than the East summit.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Mammoth Lakes Area : Horseshoe Lake Area : Horseshoe Slabs
By: kenr When: Aug 15, 2014

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Comments: Approach:
About 0.5 mile / 0.9km gentle walk from Parking (GPS lat long ~ N37.6129 W119.0208) by the N end of Horseshoe Lake.
Toilets at parking, but we did not see any bear-proof food storage containers (as of 2014).

Directions: From the Parking, start south on a wide straight dirt mountain-bike trail following about 50 yards/meters from the west shore of Horseshoe Lake. After about 0.25 mile / 400m cross the first bridge. Trail gets narrower and curvier. After another 0.25 mile / 400m, the 5t... more >>


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Mammoth Lakes Area : Dike Wall : East Face : Cromagnon (5.10a)
By: kenr When: Aug 10, 2014

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Comments: After the initial overhang, it's dead vertical to the top. Remarkable that no single move is harder than 10a.
But it keeps coming at you.
Would be even better if it required more variety of techniques.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Mammoth Lakes Area : Dike Wall : North Face : Mr. D.N.A. (5.8)
By: kenr When: Aug 10, 2014

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Comments: Sustained difficulty. Variety of techniques. If only it were longer.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Mammoth Lakes Area : Dike Wall : North Face : Mongoloid (5.10b)
By: kenr When: Aug 10, 2014

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Comments: Crux section is way harder (full value 10b) than the rest -- but the rest is interesting enough.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Mammoth Lakes Area : Dike Wall : North Face
By: kenr When: Aug 10, 2014

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Comments: Top-Roping access ...
The short access to the top of the cliffs is by two climbs rated 5.6 and 5.7 in the most recent print guidebook. There might or might not be an easier access far up toward the West which would go well above the top of the wall, and then you'd have to find your way back down and hope you could reach the top anchors for your desired climbing routes.

So if you're not feeling brave to solo 5.6 or 5.7 as your first climbing of the day, bring a selection of smal... more >>


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Mammoth Lakes Area : Dike Wall
By: kenr When: Aug 10, 2014

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Comments: The Dike Wall is located around GPS latitude longitude (N37.5962 W119.0133), about 0.2 mile / 350 meters SW from the S shore of Lake George, or about 4 miles / 6 km SW from the town of Mammoth Lakes.

Parking (lat long ~ N37.6034 W119.0107) is on the N side of Lake George. There are toilets and bear-proof food storage facilities.

Approach: The shorter approach hike is around the East side of Lake George -- about +350 vertical feet / +105 meters over a distance of 0.7 mile / 1.1 km, mostl... more >>


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Pothole Dome
By: kenr When: Aug 6, 2014

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Comments: Class 5 climbing sections on Left TR anchors 1 and 2 are around 15-25 feet. The rest of each pitch is at most class 4 (many climbers would call it class 3).

Our feeling was the class 5 moves were pretty interesting, just wish there had been more.

On the other hand the approach is short and easy (if don't get confused by the SuperTopo guidebook directions like we did), so perhaps the limited climbing is worth it.

Some ideas for how to get more out of those short class 5 sections:
  • do it in a...
 more >>


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