Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New - School of Rock
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED


Member Since: Oct 29, 2010
Last Visit: 5 hours ago
Contact kenr


Point Rank: # 1,243
Total Points: 483
Last Year: 271
Last 30 Days: 7
3 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has kenr been climbing?










Contributions


All 662 | Routes 16 | Areas 5 | Photos 14 | Page Improvments | Comments 178 | Posts 370 | Stars 60 | Ratings 19
Page 7 of 27.  <<First   <Prev   5  6  7  8  9   Next>   Last>>

Contributed Comments

 

Location: NY : Adirondacks : Crane Mountain : Black Arches Wall : Gun Show (5.10a)
By: kenr When: Aug 26, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: The first low crux is not just forearm strength, also tricky to make the feet stick. So it's worth taking some time on placing protection before trying the move. I didn't lead it, but here's what I remember from removing the protection:
Hidden inside the upper section of the flary crack is a pocket that takes a cam (? small-medium ?). Then with a long partly-blind reach, my leader placed a stopper (? medium-large ?) higher up - (which then held two falls). I'd guess you do not actually have to b... more >>


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Crane Mountain : Black Arches Wall : Pinch an Inch (5.10a R)
By: kenr When: Aug 7, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: I thought the intricate lower crux sequence was significantly harder than some other 10a sections I've done -- and harder than anything on Black Arches Arete (but that route is more sustained + exposed).

Surely worthwhile to play on the crux as a top-rope from the shared anchor with Broken Broom and Amphitheater Crack.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Crane Mountain : Black Arches Wall : Broken Broom (5.10a)
By: kenr When: Aug 7, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: Intricate face moves. I've heard that a key handhold for the balancy low crux is now less positive than a year ago.

Note that there is another route "Pinch an Inch" close next to it on climber's Right (with a harder low crux sequence, but easier climbing higher up). And higher up it's possible to wander left onto the (easier) top section of "Amphitheater Crack". So to find the harder more interesting climbing above the low crux stay reasonably close to the line of bolts (and away from less-clea... more >>


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Crane Mountain : Black Arches Wall : Black Arch ArÍte (5.10b PG13)
By: kenr When: Aug 7, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: Great variety of moves in a great space (on top-rope).
Adding to the variety is the short "Adirondack obligatory awkward" chimney start.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Crane Mountain : Black Arches Wall : Amphitheatre Crack (5.9+)
By: kenr When: Aug 7, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: Lots of interesting moves on good rock.
Maybe it's "soft" for the grade (in the sense that it doesn't take much finger or arm strength) if you just commit to the move (from layback right to stemming left), but to me both feet felt pretty tenuous, until I made the next little step up -- so I can understand why some people find it difficult to commit.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Crane Mountain : Left of Ladder : Thank You, Cindy (5.7)
By: kenr When: Aug 7, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: Fun interesting moves, but the rock is inferior to much in the SouthEast area (e.g. Black Arches + Diagonal Ramp Wall).
I took a little slide when the sandy surface of the rock sheared off under a frictiony step I took, so I got a "road rash" scrape on my lower leg.

There's another route of similar difficulty and interesting moves (not sure of protection, since we lowered in from the top), a few feet to the northwest (climber's Left) from "Thank You Cindy" -- but in greater need of cleaning.

R... more >>


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Crane Mountain : Left of Ladder
By: kenr When: Aug 7, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: After hiking to the summit, we made the rappel down into the climbs just southeast of "Thank You Cindy" -- 60 meter rope should be sufficient to reach base of rock (leaving a short steep scramble down thru trees + brush).
We found the rappel by walking northwest from the summit on the main trail for about 150-250 feet. At a rock outcrop viewpoint, we went down toward the top of the cliff, first on the south side of the outcrop, then like ten feet thru low bushes to find a rope around tree with t... more >>


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Crane Mountain : Black Arches Wall
By: kenr When: Aug 7, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: There is now a new trail up to the SouthEast area (from a different start point along the access road) which is shorter more direct, than going thru Boulderwoods from the main Crane Mt Trailhead parking.
(I leave it to the local experts to decide how to give details for this.)


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Crane Mountain
By: kenr When: Aug 7, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: Note that the shortest easiest trail access to the SouthEast area (from a different start point along the access road) is now rather different from the map + directions in the latest print edition of the Adirondack Rock guidebook. (I leave it to the local experts to decide how to give details for this.)


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Crane Mountain : Diagonal Ramp Wall
By: kenr When: Aug 7, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: Note that this wall is not the same as the "Diagonal" area in the Summmit section of Crane Mt. I guess the Summit area gets it's name from the diagonal cracks that run across it -- while this section in the SouthEast area gets its name from the steep slope up from left to right across the base of the wall.

approach -- roughly 500 vertical feet of uphill hiking from the road, over less than a mile of horizontal distance.

location ...
latitude/longitude approximate: (N43.54262 W73.95514)
UTM app... more >>


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Crane Mountain : Diagonal Ramp Wall : Felonious Mopery (5.9-)
By: kenr When: Aug 7, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: Maybe the start is easier if start higher to the right? (but then the only difficult part is the obvious overhang).

Interesting question whether the crux goes easier as a pure layback, or with some jamming?

Actually the non-crux sections are nice enough, just much easier than the crux.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Crane Mountain : Diagonal Ramp Wall : Tun Tavern (5.8+)
By: kenr When: Aug 7, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: Variety of interesting climbing moves, pretty fun. Could be much tougher for someone shorter that 5 ft 5 inch. Or much more tricky jamming in one section with non-large hands -- With my fairly large hands, I had nice fist jams in that middle section, but I guess someone with much smaller than that might need to do some sort of "stacking" jams (or some other trick)


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : h. The Arrow Wall - CCK : Andrew (5.4 PG13)
By: kenr When: Aug 4, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: Sharon + I thought P3 + P4 were great today. Fun moves, reasonably well-protected (I carried doubles of all cams Camalot #1 or smaller down to around Mastercam 0 / C3 0). She said she felt well-protected following except for one place, and we both agree that it was because I wasn't carrying doubles of Camalot #2, so I could make only one placement in one of the later horizontal traverse cracks.

I led with double ropes and used lots of long runners, so it worked well to combine P3 + ... more >>


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Near Trapps : b. Gelsa to Moe (closure) : Yum Yum Yab Yum (5.4)
By: kenr When: Aug 1, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: A climb as good as this deserves a more detailed description, so here's my try:

P1 - Starting up slab, trend slightly left to reach Left-facing corner, follow that to ledge with a large pine tree with rappel slings - about 50-65 feet off the ground.

P2 - First go up 10-15 feet on right side, then Left about 10 feet (tricky moves, perhaps more like Gunks 5.4) to reach left-facing corner, follow that (steep) to its top. Then up face (with a bulge) to a wide ledge - on its right side is a large p... more >>


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Near Trapps : b. Gelsa to Moe (closure) : Yum Yum Yab Yum (5.4)
By: kenr When: Jul 31, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: Great climb. I bet it's actually less far from the main West Trapps parking than more famous 5.3-5.4 routes (Beginners Delight + Minty).

But YYYY is not for (most) beginners because of the long traverse at the top - and with the top belay not positioned well for communication.

A good reason to stop and belay at the first pine tree ledge is so that the leader can demonstrate to followers the somewhat-tricky move sequence just above the ledge. WIth careful placement of protection, I wa... more >>


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Lake Champlain Region : Deadwater : Main Cliff : Geronimo (5.8)
By: kenr When: Jul 27, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: My hands are larger, so it took some fiddling to get a jam (sort of a thumb cam?) I felt solid on in the high crux bulge on the main route.
? Harder than 5.8 ? I'd say either you can get a jam with your right hand solid enough to hold you for a moment on the overhang while you grab with your left -- or you cannot. If you cannot, then I guess it's way harder than 5.8 (? or you just stick a cam into the crack higher up and grab its sling ?)


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Keene Valley Region : Beer Walls : Frosted Mug (5.9)
By: kenr When: Jul 27, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: I think the "5.7 R" mentioned in the Adirondack Rocks guidebook is for traversing under the overhang to reach the arete. Looked to me like the "R" danger was falling before the end of the traverse and then swinging back to the right and smacking into that left-facing wall below.

A different protection problem is in the main upper dihedral corner itself ... If climbed mostly with the obvious layback technique, it tends to be strenuous to place pro, so it's tempting to rush it. Even more strenuou... more >>


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Keene Valley Region : Chapel Pond Slab : Empress (5.5 X)
By: kenr When: Jul 27, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: About as varied climbing and terrain you could have given that it's all still a friction slab.

P1 - nice warmup of friction -- check if your head is ready today for what lies above. Careful not to make the anchor too high, or you'll have to down-climb to the "steppy" rock that starts the next pitch.
P2 - different rock textures ... right across the "steppy" rock, then up white-ish rock to make an anchor near base of giant L-facing corner.
(? alt P2 ? The reason not to go directly to th... more >>


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Keene Valley Region : Upper Washbowl Cliff : Hesitation (5.8 R)
By: kenr When: Jul 19, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: My partner made a gear anchor at the top of P1, to the left of the fixed anchor. My memory is that he placed most of the gear in obvious vertical crack. Seemed like setting the anchor left of the fixed anchor was better positioned for belaying the climbing both for P1 and for P2.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Cascade Lakes Region : Pitchoff Chimney Cliff : The El (5.8)
By: kenr When: Jul 19, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: P2 - seemed to me there was a section before the corner where it's pretty difficult to protect the follower from a possible substantial swing. The moves there took good balance-technique.

Then just after coming around the corner/arete, it seemed to go well by making one more move across left, then a move _up_ on a vertical crack. Then continue traversing left using the main horizontal crack for feet instead of hands. Then after more traversing, move _up_ again before creating the belay anchor.
... more >>


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Cascade Lakes Region : Pitchoff Chimney Cliff : Pete's Farewell (5.7)
By: kenr When: Jul 19, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: P3 - unless you've got rather large hands, the lower section of the crack of P3 is too wide for effective hand-jams -- but for me it went pretty easily as a layback, especially with jamming/camming my feet a little into the crack.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : f. The Guides' Wall (Madame... : Asphodel (5.5)
By: kenr When: Jun 17, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: For the sake of good communication, I made a semi-hanging belay for P1 on the slab higher above the cruxes, with gear in the corner crack by a small tree -- at roughly the horizontal level of the ledge with two pine trees. Worked fine. When my follower arrived, she just continued around left to the two pine trees. We didn't go any higher, and the two-rope rappel off one of the pine trees worked great.

Fun climb in an interesting space. Not one of the harder Gunks 5.5s we've done. Seemed plenty ... more >>


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : a. The Uberfall : Jacob's Ladder (5.10b R)
By: kenr When: Jun 17, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: I did it as a top-rope (never seen anyone lead it). Just what I was looking for: lots of moves on small or slopy holds.
I didn't notice an "overhang" until I read the description again afterward -- so I would emphasize that it's a tiny overhang.

I found I could get to the "overhang" either by getting my feet up on the slopy ramp early, then move left -- or have my hands around the ramp and my feet below while moving significantly left, and step up onto the ramp only later. Not sure w... more >>


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : g. V3 - Middle Earth : Middle Earth (5.6)
By: kenr When: Jun 15, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: P1 I found to be well-protected since I had a little Mastercam #0 to stick in a flary vertical crack as my second piece off the ground.
Above that my "normal" rack worked fine, no need for anything larger than a #2 Camalot.

P1 was pretty sustained with thoughtful face/slab moves near the rating grade. Perhaps not a good choice as an early Lead for someone making the transition from indoor climbing, because some of the protection stances required standing on slopy or small footholds ... more >>


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : b. Jackie and friends : Belly Roll (5.4)
By: kenr When: Jun 13, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: Fun climb -- except for the (short) belly roll section.
(maybe I didn't get far enough inside it? - perhaps I'll try that next time). P2 is one of the better 5.2-5.3 pitches in the Gunks.

Sharon hates "the roll" even more than I do, so I've suggested that she just bring prusiks and "aid" her way up that short section, so she can enjoy the remainder. One time she avoided "the roll" by actually traversing way left and climbing the friction ramp on the Dennis route -- but I have a feeling she was ... more >>


Page 7 of 27.  <<First   <Prev   5  6  7  8  9   Next>   Last>>