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Member Since: Oct 29, 2010
Last Visit: 7 hours ago
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Point Rank: # 442
Total Points: 1,473
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Last 30 Days: 96
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 1297 | Routes 52 | Areas 12 | Photos 88 | Page Improvements 14 | Comments 291 | Posts 615 | Stars 154 | Ratings 71
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Contributed Photos

Photo Caption Location Date
NE side of North ridge of Crystal Crag

NE side of North ridge of Crystal Crag

CA : Sierra Eastside : ... : North ArÍte (5.6)

Aug 27, 2013

north from the North summit to the crystal section

north from the North summit to the crystal section

CA : Sierra Eastside : ... : Aretes of Crystal Crag dire... (5.6)

Aug 26, 2013

Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Mammoth Lakes Area : Horseshoe Lake Area : Horseshoe Piles : Spring Wall
By: kenr When: 1 day ago

view comment >>
Comments: (N37.6022 W119.0185) or (37.6022, -119.0185) is the approximate latitude longitude I got from my GPS, two measurements separated by six hours.

Another way to approach is to start up the Crystal Lake trail, and continue on it past the water tanks (lat long ~ N37.6043 W119.0145). Above the cabins the trail climbs moderately along the SouthEast (left) side of the ridge with glimpses of Lake George. Then the trail bears right slightly (away from Lake George) and goes flat for about 100 meters. Befo... more >>


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Mammoth Lakes Area : Horseshoe Lake Area : Horseshoe Piles : ... : D.D.D. (5.11a)
By: kenr When: 1 day ago

view comment >>
Comments: We set up Top-Rope from the two-bolt top anchor. We reached that anchor by scrambing up around the Right (west) side of cliff. Glad we had approach shoes with sticky climbing rubber. The top area is fairly slopy, so be careful of slipping off (and careful not to dislodge loose rocks + dirt).

I found it pretty tricky to "get established" in the corner. But plenty of thoughtful strenuous moves above.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Mammoth Lakes Area : Horseshoe Lake Area : Horseshoe Piles : ... : Edge of Freedom (5.10c)
By: kenr When: 1 day ago

view comment >>
Comments: We set up Top-Rope from the two-bolt top anchor. We reached that anchor by scrambing up around the Right (west) side of cliff. Glad we had approach shoes with sticky climbing rubber. The top area is fairly slopy, so be careful of slipping off (and careful not to dislodge loose rocks + dirt).

Lots of interesting moves. The "rooflet" is fun and not the crux. Gets fairly sustained above the roof. I felt no single move was harder than 10b, but it kept coming at me.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Mammoth Lakes Area : Horseshoe Lake Area : Horseshoe Piles : ... : Tiger's Eye (5.10c)
By: kenr When: 1 day ago

view comment >>
Comments: We set up Top-Rope from the two-bolt top anchor. We reached that anchor by scrambing up around the Right (west) side of cliff. Glad we had approach shoes with sticky climbing rubber. The top area is fairly slopy, so be careful of slipping off (and careful not to dislodge loose rocks + dirt).

Crux sequence seemed much harder than the rest of the climb. Not quite a "one move wonder", but not real sustained either.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Mammoth Lakes Area : Horseshoe Lake Area : Horseshoe Piles : ... : Cleaning Lady (5.9)
By: kenr When: 1 day ago

view comment >>
Comments: Top-Rope: We found the moves to reach the two-bolt top anchor to be less secure than what we wanted to solo, so we climbed up to it on belay from the Ringer top anchor (after climbing either Ringer or Horseshoe Pits on top-rope).

We reached that two-chain anchor for Ringer by scrambing up around the Right (west) side of cliff. The top area is fairly slopy, so be careful of slipping off (and careful not to dislodge loose rocks + dirt).

I felt that the crux about a qusrter way up took thought, b... more >>


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Mammoth Lakes Area : Horseshoe Lake Area : Horseshoe Piles : ... : Horseshoe Pits (5.8)
By: kenr When: 1 day ago

view comment >>
Comments: We set up Top-Rope by extending static rope or long runners down over the top edge from the two-chain top anchor above the top of Ringer. Though our rope connection point was at an angle from the chains, it held in place nicely as we climbed it several times.
We reached that two-chain anchor by scrambing up around the Right (west) side of cliff. The top area is fairly slopy, so be careful of slipping off (and careful not to dislodge loose rocks + dirt).

Some thoughtful moves, well within the ra... more >>


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Mammoth Lakes Area : Horseshoe Lake Area : Horseshoe Piles : ... : Ringer (5.8)
By: kenr When: 1 day ago

view comment >>
Comments: We set up Top-Rope by extending static rope or long runners down over the top edge from the two-chain top anchor. We reached that two-chain anchor by scrambing up around the Right (west) side of cliff. The top area is fairly slopy, so be careful of slipping off (and careful not to dislodge loose rocks + dirt).

Lots of interesting thoughtful moves, fairly sustained. I guess perhaps no single move is harder than 5.8 after a couple of tries to work out the difficulties of each section. My... more >>


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Mammoth Lakes Area : Rock Creek : Iris Slab : Groovin' (5.8 R)
By: kenr When: 3 days ago

view comment >>
Comments: two-bolt top anchor say like ten feet / three meters down from the top of cliff (but above where it gets sustained steeper below).
I think this anchor is shared with "Sting".


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Mammoth Lakes Area : Rock Creek : Iris Slab : Sting (5.8)
By: kenr When: 3 days ago

view comment >>
Comments: two-bolt top anchor say like ten feet / three meters down from the top of cliff (but above where it gets sustained steeper below).
I think this anchor is shared with "Groovin".

For setting up Top-Rope, perhaps could rappel in (with some diagonal) from the top anchor for "Welcome to the Iris Slab".

Lots of fun moves, with some jamming in the crack as well as frictional footwork.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Mammoth Lakes Area : Rock Creek : Iris Slab : Welcome to the Iris Slab (5.8)
By: kenr When: 3 days ago

view comment >>
Comments: two-bolt anchor at top.
We did it on Top-Rope -- rather fun.
Both interesting jamming in the crack and interesting footwork.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Mammoth Lakes Area : Rock Creek : Iris Slab : Exodus (5.10a R)
By: kenr When: 3 days ago

view comment >>
Comments: anchor at at top with two bolts, with two chains attached for rappel.
We did it on Top-Rope.
Nice slab / face climbing practice fairly sustained -- if that's what you want.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Mammoth Lakes Area : Rock Creek : Iris Slab : Crazy Bald Head (5.10c R)
By: kenr When: 3 days ago

view comment >>
Comments: two bolt anchor at top.

Taking the obvious direct line up to the top anchor, there's a fairly "blank" section of the face for about 9-10 feet / 3 meters which seemed pretty hard for 10c.
(the 4th edition print guidebook calls it 10b, which seemed way out of sync with the 10a next to it -- or maybe the print guide has in mind some "approved" sequence around one side with some features that are "on" the route).
. (or maybe I was just not seeing something, or was too tired).

Otherwise some intere... more >>


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Mammoth Lakes Area : Rock Creek : Iris Slab : Easy Skankin' (5.5)
By: kenr When: 3 days ago

view comment >>
Comments: the Variation is at difficulty around 5.7, with several finger jam moves (preceded by a step-up move where we _wished_ we had a finger jam).
We set up Top-Rope for the Variation by wrapping a static line around one of several available trees near the edge of the cliff top.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Mammoth Lakes Area : Rock Creek : Iris Slab : Concrete Jungle (5.7)
By: kenr When: 3 days ago

view comment >>
Comments: two-bolt anchor at top.

Interesting moves, especially in lower half, with the two cracks. Not sure if any single move was harder than 5.6, but thoughtful, and somewhat sustained at that difficulty, esp. in the lower half.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Eastern Hills : Sagehen Summit Area : Granite Basin
By: kenr When: 4 days ago

view comment >>
Comments: The dirt road leaving highway 120 is non-wide single-lane with sagebrush close alongside. So I suggest before driving the twenty miles out on rt 120, consider if your vehicle is going to be able to handle whatever method you're planning to use in case you unexpectedly run into a section that's very irregular or deeply rutted or washed out, and your method for in case you encounter another vehicle coming in the opposite direction.


Location: NY : Ramapo Powerlinez (Torne Va... : High Electricity : High Electricity (5.8+)
By: kenr When: 5 days ago

view comment >>
Comments: OK so if High E "is" a boulder problem, then what is it's bouldering difficulty? Since this is MountainProject, we need to use standard USA Huecos grades.

so what's the USA-standard grade ...
? V minus minus ?


Location: NY : Ramapo Powerlinez (Torne Va... : The Tower Wall : Photo
By: kenr When: 6 days ago

view comment >>
Comments: Matt, Thanks for that warning. And expecially to leaders -- which I guess you are in a special position to give, since you might be the only person who has ever led Tower Wall Direct.

I think it's a great climb even though I have never led it. I've climbed it three or four times on Top-Rope. Photos are tricky, so I suggest that Leaders follow the textual description (and their own good sense).

Actually I think that the topo lines are much more wrong and misleading for
? No Rest for the Wicked ... more >>


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Highway 50 Corridor : Lover's Leap : West Wall : Arctic Breeze (5.10a)
By: kenr When: Jul 27, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Seemed like the crux was only a short section. Most of the rest much easier (but fun enough) climbing.
For more sustained nearby, could try Absolutely Billy.


Location: NY : Ramapo Powerlinez (Torne Va... : The Tower Wall : Any Which Way But Down/Ex-t... (5.8 PG13)
By: kenr When: Jul 13, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Here's a try at a more detailed description:

Start at a crack system at the left border of the Tower Wall main face, about 15 feet left of the the Shark's tooth detached flake, between two slab faces.

Up the cracks into a concave scoop. Perhaps easier to trend left through the scoop. Next up the left side of a fractured block. Then a little overhang move at bush. Finish up through (overhanging) center of darker top rocks.


Location: CA : High Sierra : Little Lakes Valley & Mono ... : Little Lakes Peak : NNW Ridge direct (5.6)
By: kenr When: Jul 4, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Thanks to Tyler for the warning about descending the South side of Little Lakes Pk. And for the suggestion of trying the SW ridge. I went back and took some "route planning" photos of that from the hiking trail - (somebody else suggested starting on the W face to join the SW ridge partway up).

And thanks for a different perspective on the NNW Ridge. Likely it does have more loose rock than the N ridge of Mt Conness. And does not have such a dramatic "position" on a macro scale.
Quality of climb... more >>


Location: PA : Northeast Ridges and Valley... : Mocanaqua (Shickshinny) : The Library : Main Block, Front Side : Darling Dainty Feet (5.11)
By: kenr When: Jun 13, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: The suggestion in the description above to use the arete to keep the difficulty in the 11 range is very appropriate.

The move slightly below mid-way is likely much harder for climbers much less tall than 5ft7inch with normal reach.

Some the hangers on the bolts might be old.


Location: PA : Northeast Ridges and Valley... : Mocanaqua (Shickshinny) : The Library : Main Block, Back Side : Brass Monkey (5.8)
By: kenr When: Jun 13, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Those two bolts are for a different route, called "5.10b" in the Rob Holzman guidebook.
. (My best guess would be that the strong climbers who first developed the Library just enjoyed soloing Brass Monkey -- as they did other routes of similar difficulty, e.g. Gray Face).


Location: PA : Northeast Ridges and Valley... : Mocanaqua (Shickshinny) : The Library : Main Block, Back Side : Great Expectations (5.10a)
By: kenr When: Jun 13, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: The crux is roughly straight up from the 3rd (top) bolt. Even though the two-bolt anchor is well to the right (N) of the 3rd bolt.

Crux move is likely much harder for climbers much less tall than 5ft8inch with normal reach.

Location: Bolted line to the right of the tree stump which is about 4 feet right of a live tree. At least 10 feet left of the arete (with two bolts) and chimney.


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