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Member Since: Oct 29, 2010
Last Visit: 16 hours ago
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Point Rank: # 1,430
Total Points: 403
Last Year: 210
Last 30 Days: 0
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Areas are worth 15
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All (510) | Routes (16) | Areas (2) | Photos (14) | Comments (143) | Posts (269) | Stars (49) | Ratings (17)
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: PA : Chickies Rock : 4 Main Wall
By: kenr When: May 16, 2012

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Comments: Although there's lots of different Top-Ropable climbing lines all over the south + west sides of the lower Main wall, there's not much space on the Riverview ledge for traditional Top-Rope anchors once multiple parties show up. So be prepared to share. And remember, somebody in each party needs to really know what they're doing with setting up Trad top-rope anchors.

For top-roping, the historic route names (like given on this website) don't have much meaning, since the old routes wande... more >>


Location: PA : Chickies Rock : 4 Main Wall : The Undercling (5.7)
By: kenr When: May 16, 2012

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Comments: The obvious easier leadable line is not more than 5.4, as Larry S says, and I believe that's the line called "Sunday Morning".


Location: PA : Chickies Rock : 4 Main Wall : The Library (5.4)
By: kenr When: May 16, 2012

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Comments: Very delicate move getting into the bottom of the lower dihedral / open book. I'd say at least 5.6. Maybe there's a 5.4 way to do it if work out exactly the correct holds in the right sequence On top-rope perhaps it doesn't matter, just put the climber on tension to get them thru it. But

Leading ... the idea that a starting 5.4 leader is going to figure out the sequence while scared is not a good bet. Note that at least one on-line guidebook says the pro is fairly tricky on this route, recomme... more >>


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Near Trapps : a. Beginning of cliff to Ge... : Gelsa (5.4)
By: kenr When: Apr 22, 2012

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Comments: I led it again and enjoyed it very much again -- but I had a follower fall off again, on the second half of the low traverse (first section of P2), and they ended up hanging down below the route on unclimbable terrain. Fortunately, my second was carrying prusiks and knew how to use them, so they got back up. I was also glad I didn't have to abandon gear retreating from the second belay if I'd just lowered them off to the ground.

My big lesson is that I should have stopped and belayed at the tre... more >>


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : a. The Uberfall : Katzenjammer (5.7)
By: kenr When: Mar 22, 2012

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Comments: Worthwhile 5.7-5.8 face climbing on Top-Rope if that's what you're looking for, but not much special about it. Never seen anyone leading it -- some suggestions in guidebook that it's not so well protected.

Since I don't understand the Description given above (as of February 2012), I'll say here how I've done it a couple of times (only on Top-Rope).

There are two "blast holes" visible at the bottom of the Brat face, vertical rounded hollows remaining from drilling into the rock to place explosi... more >>


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : a. The Uberfall : The Brat Direct (5.7)
By: kenr When: Mar 22, 2012

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Comments: Often done as a Top-Rope. Several (non-Direct) variations are straightforward on TR which might be more fun than the Direct line given.
Perhaps the easiest "cheaters" route is to traverse way Left early before the obvious crux crack, then diagonal back up right, then traverse long Right just above the crux crack to a gentler slab. Up the slab, then Left to the final (unavoidable) high crux (? 5.6 ? choice of finger-strength on uninviting holds versus good footwork and balance).

Less-easy face-c... more >>


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : a. The Uberfall : Nice 5.9 Climb (5.9)
By: kenr When: Mar 22, 2012

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Comments: I agree that it's one strenuous (and a bit balancy?) memorable 9 move, though not necessarily representative of crux moves on lots of other 9s in the Gunks. There are also some mildly-entertaining easier moves leading up to it.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : b. Jackie and friends : Betty (5.3)
By: kenr When: Mar 22, 2012

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Comments: I agree that the most fun and esthetic way to do P2 is to step left at the top of the first chimney, then thru the semi-notch and up the prow to the top. It's more direct, more exposed, and has cleaner rock. Perhaps the prow takes a bit more thought to protect (with a range of cams in horizontal cracks).

I'd rate Betty as 3-stars with this "direct" P2 variation, only 2-stars without it.

The initial off-width crack system has a couple of moves where the footwork is fairly subtle, and lots of pe... more >>


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : a. The Uberfall : No Picnic (5.5)
By: kenr When: Mar 22, 2012

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Comments: Nice overhang/steep section, big positive holds all the way thru it. Too bad that section is not longer (like so many nice things around the Uberfall). I did not find any "sandy" holds mentioned in one guidebook.

1 or 2 more single strenuous moves in it, where the feet are not good, or you have to step fairly high which momentarily pushes your butt out from the rock. Barely noticeable if you're strong + confident + move thru it quickly -- but very noticeable if you're not. Those 1 or 2 single m... more >>


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : c. Frog's Head - the Arch : Sixish (5.5)
By: kenr When: Nov 7, 2011

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Comments: I enjoyed leading it today and didn't think getting thru the notch in P3 was that hard, provided you can reach a certain hand-hold, and have the strength to hang out and feel around to find it -- and it less than 5ft5in tall, some extra footwork.

Seemed like the vertical crack at the crux on P1 didn't like to hold my stoppers. Next time I'll try just sticking some cams into it.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Near Trapps : a. Beginning of cliff to Ge... : Gelsa (5.4)
By: kenr When: Nov 6, 2011

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Comments: Nice variety of moves for a 5.4. Perhaps not a good choice for inexperienced (or inattentive) leaders (or rather their followers), because of all the traversing at the beginning -- it's easy to forget to protect the follower. It could be also a bad choice for a leader with lots of indoor but not much outdoor experience -- because of the dependence on footwork just before and after the end of the beginning traversing.

I found the little BD cam #0 very useful on last pitch. For the recomme... more >>


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : h. The Arrow Wall - CCK : Silhouette (5.7+ PG13)
By: kenr When: Oct 19, 2011

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Comments: I followed it, Karl did a great job of leading both pitches. Lots of interesting moves. First section of P1 kinda scary. Some details ...

start: We scrambled up diagonally left to roughly the same start as Andrew and set up our belay there. There was discussion of more difficult + direct ways we could have reached that point.

P1 - the "traverse out left", I would say "despite the _lack_ of a ledge" -- hands not positive, feet not obvious, rather balancy, rather exposed -- and not sure how far ... more >>


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : a. The Uberfall : Dirty Chimney (5.0)
By: kenr When: Aug 26, 2011

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Comments: I think Dirty Chimney offers about the best 50 feet of readily accessible 5.0-5.1 climbing I've seen in the Northeast US. At most climbing areas, the easy routes are slabs. Leave it to the Gunks to offer one with interesting holds. It's fun to look for the "hidden" holds that make it only 5.0-5.1 (and avoid using actual chimney techniques).
Yes there is some dirt around (more if you go beyond the ledge on top of Laurel, all the way to the top of the gully, which I don't recommend) but most of th... more >>


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : l. Sleepy Hollow : Casa Emilio (5.4)
By: kenr When: Aug 14, 2011

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Comments: P0 - Inside at Emilio’s: Enter down into the Comici wine cellar. Find your way up to the living room. Exit out the right skylight. Above left side emerging from skylight is the pine tree platform at the bottom of P1.

We’ve climbed this lower starting pitch twice now: Great chance to make some climbing moves inside a cave. I wouldn’t make the walk out to Casa Emilio without doing it.

Difficulty? I don’t see how the easiest way I found thru this P0 each time could be harder than Gunks 5.3 -- my... more >>


Location: NH : Rumney : Main Cliff : Gold Digger (5.8+)
By: kenr When: Aug 5, 2011

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Comments: I was following, but my leader (against my advice) avoided the tricky move right, and instead finished climbing sort of left-ward up to bolt anchors (which I assume are intended for the adjoining climb to the left, Goldbug). That finish didn't seem harder than 5.9, maybe less.


Location: NH : Rumney : Main Cliff : Rock Du Jours Direct (5.9+)
By: kenr When: Aug 5, 2011

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Comments: P2 is still great in 2011.


Location: NH : Rumney : The Crow's Nest : The Little Mermaid (5.6)
By: kenr When: Aug 5, 2011

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Comments: High density of interesting + varied moves at the grade. But much shorter than expected for 6 bolts. The walk up to Crow's Nest from Jimmy is longer than some maps suggest, so make sure you have other things to do here at Crows Nest to justify the labor of approach.


Location: NH : Rumney : The Crow's Nest : Land Ho! (5.8+)
By: kenr When: Aug 5, 2011

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Comments: Good climb, with a memorable "look" up from the bottom, and the unusual possibility (at Rumney) of actually getting to the top of something. Moves not quite as interesting as Junco.
Well-protected after clip the 2nd bolt, provided the belayer is anchored.
hint: coming to the top, think about the best bet for topping out, not just clipping the anchor bolts.


Location: NH : Rumney : The Crow's Nest : Scuttlebutt (5.6 PG13)
By: kenr When: Aug 5, 2011

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Comments: One of the most interesting chimney climbs I've done.


Location: NH : Rumney : The Crow's Nest : Pee Wee's Big Adventure (5.4)
By: kenr When: Aug 5, 2011

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Comments: Good climb -- but it should be longer to justify hauling a trad rack up that far.
The first 15 feet seemed kind of strenuous for 5.4 -- and it seemed to me the protection possibilities thru that section were pretty flaring, so I just climbed thru it. The landing below there was very slopy, so could take quite a tumble down the hill if actually fell - (good reason to remember to anchor the belayer, also).
Placing stoppers in the cracks for say the next 10 feet above that seemed kind of "... more >>


Location: NH : Rumney : The Meadows : Center Section : Beginner's Route (5.5)
By: kenr When: Aug 5, 2011

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Comments: Great climb, would do it again. Seemed to me there was a run-out section about 20 feet up before reaching the crack (then another run-out at the top). Otherwise well-protected with a normal modern rock (no need for big cams), with nice stances for placing gear.

Without a trad rack, does not seem like a smart idea -- as a route for "Beginners" -- to top-rope it from Bolt Line . . . because someone who fell in the lower part would take a substantial swing. So still need some trad gear to p... more >>


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : a. The Uberfall : The Flake (5.1 PG13)
By: kenr When: Jul 24, 2011

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Comments: Inside -- seemed much harder than 5.1, if done in the obvious way as a chimney on the inside. There's a little section where the chimney gets almost a little inverted, and just then there's no definite footholds. Doable, Yes. Even a bit interesting, if you're into chimney moves. But difficulty more like 5.4, or at least 5.3.

Outside - (as top-rope) - doing it all on the outside (right side) is kind of interesting, difficulty like around 5.4+, with an overhang just off the ground, then another b... more >>


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : e. The Mac Wall (Something ... : Three Pines (5.3)
By: kenr When: Oct 29, 2010

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Comments: Can be kinda tricky to get off the ledge at the start of P3. Especially for less-tall climbers who aren't accustomed to taking high steps.

If have any doubt about the ability of your second, best to split P3 into two, stop and belay just above the exciting traverse, so you can talk to your follower(s).

There are two possible left-facing corners that could be climbed to start P3. I've usually taken the left of the two, because I found that I could protect it with a stopper and oppositional. Of ... more >>


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : f. The Guides' Wall (Madame... : Beginner's Delight (5.4)
By: kenr When: Oct 29, 2010

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Comments: This time I tried leading the traverse with two ropes. Made me feel completely free to place lots of small cams and stuff further along the traverse without exposing the second to extra swing. So really the only part of the climb not well-protected for me leading was like the first 25 feet or so into the traverse (when I was exposed to swinging back and hitting the corner).

P1 lower half: The obvious crack has a move with pretty thin feet. Starting to L of it, then weaving around a bit. (The up... more >>


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : g. V3 - Middle Earth : Sente (5.9)
By: kenr When: Oct 29, 2010

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Comments: Agree with JSH: If less than 5ft 7inch / 170cm, unless have unusually long arms, would have to stand on really dicy crystals or something in order to reach hand up to the horizontal.
That comes before placing the first cam in horizontal, below the first bolt.
(Or else someone post the special beta for non-tall leaders.)


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