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Member Since: Oct 29, 2010
Last Visit: 14 hours ago
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Point Rank: # 734
Total Points: 865
Last Year: 464
Last 30 Days: 135
6 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has kenr been climbing?










Contributions


All 787 | Routes 27 | Areas 9 | Photos 50 | Page Improvements 3 | Comments 201 | Posts 396 | Stars 78 | Ratings 23
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: NY : Ramapo Powerlinez (Torne Va... : The Tower Wall : Back to the Wall (5.7+ PG13)
By: kenr When: Jun 6, 2014

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Comments: Lots of interesting moves with variety.
Top-rope did not require directionals, but very difficult to set up TR to achieve all of: avoid rope drag, monitor possible abrasion on anchor materials, and belay from the bottom. So I'd recommend plan on belaying from the top.


Location: NY : West Point : Poison Ivy Wall
By: kenr When: Jun 5, 2014

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Comments: Parking change as of May 2014 ...
Sharon and I drove down to the marina on the train tracks alongside the River (south of the cliff) to park. Saw a new sign said parking is no longer allowed as of May 1, 2014. Just a couple weeks ago before in April I had paid the guy $5 and parked there.

I went over and talked to him, and he said his insurance would no longer allow parking. Suggested we park up at the West Point Visitors center instead.

So I left Sharon and our rope and draws and packs at the... more >>


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : h. The Arrow Wall - CCK : Modern Times (5.8+)
By: kenr When: Jun 4, 2014

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Comments: My theory about why the 8+ grade is retained low for P2, and the grade of P1 seemes (to me) elevated at 7 for P1 ... is for enthusiasts for the route to avoid admitting that most of the route is much easier than the one crux sequence - (unlike Son of Easy O). My memory was that most of the climbing on both pitches is in the 5.4-5 range, with a brief 6 (or maybe 7- ?) overhang on P1.

Not that the lengthy 5.4-5 sections are boring -- I found them interesting (but not brilliant) for 5.4-5

I thin... more >>


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : c. Frog's Head - the Arch : Pas de Deux (5.8)
By: kenr When: Jun 3, 2014

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Comments: On P1, people I was climbing with thought it was easier to continue the hand traverse left on past the obvious crack from below and continue several feet past the crack leading above. Then a mantle up to a stance, then back right and up to join the obvious crack above a bit higher. Which also seems to be what the Williams guidebook suggests.

I've done the more obvious way of starting up in the crack immediately from the hand traverse three times, and I like it -- but delicate,... more >>


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : e. The Mac Wall (Something ... : Credibility Gap (5.6)
By: kenr When: Jun 3, 2014

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Comments: There is a very secure cam placement out near the edge of the crux roof on P1 -- but consider that removing that piece might be rather strenuous and intimidating for your follower -- and they might then lose their appetite for actually for actually performing the crux moves.
So I'd recommend taking some thought about which piece and how to place it -- and some explicit communication with follower about how they should remove it.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : b. Jackie and friends : Betty (5.3)
By: kenr When: Jun 3, 2014

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Comments: Did a P2 variation which skips the fun unique first chimney of P2. Sharon liked it so much she asked to be lowered back in to climb it again. Seemed like 5.6- and protection seemed typical Gunks placing cams in horizontal cracks.

Left Direct Nose P2 variation:
From the P1 belay ledge, start about 15-20 feet left from the chimney corner, a bit left of the nose. Diagonal right (loose block as of 2014) onto the nose and straight up it (passing left of the notch with tree, which is on the m... more >>


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : b. Jackie and friends : Raubenheimer Special (5.7 PG13)
By: kenr When: Jun 3, 2014

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Comments: Lots of credit to gblauer for leading P1. The crux for taller people is a delicate move on the arete. But for somebody much less than 5'7" with normal reach, the next move after that is much harder than 5.7

For a better P2, I nominate aiming for the nose a bit left of Betty - (see "Left Direct Nose P2 variation" in the Comments under Betty).


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Near Trapps : a. Beginning of cliff to Ge... : Land of The Giants (5.7)
By: kenr When: May 29, 2014

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Comments: Climbed it yesterday, enjoyed it.
I'm much less than 6 feet tall, and just above the old piton did seem like the hardest move. But I did not find it to be a "big" move -- rather it took some clever footwork and balance. I'm sure that there's some human body height+reach below which the move is much harder, but I don't think 6 feet tall is where the divider comes.


Location: PA : Northeast Ridges and Valley... : Mocanaqua (Shickshinny) : The Library : Rear Wall : K.B. (5.11+)
By: kenr When: May 24, 2014

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Comments: Location is on the rear wall (east wall of the corridor, not on the detached block). In the left / north half of the wall.


Location: PA : Northeast Ridges and Valley... : Mocanaqua (Shickshinny) : The Library : Rear Wall : Pine Line (5.11+)
By: kenr When: May 24, 2014

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Comments: Location is on the rear wall (east wall of the corridor, not on the detached block). Near the left / north end of that wall.


Location: PA : Northeast Ridges and Valley... : Mocanaqua (Shickshinny) : The Library : Main Block, Back Side : Warm Up Route (5.6)
By: kenr When: May 24, 2014

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Comments: Location is on the backside wall (west face) of the main detached block, which is the east wall of the corridor behind that block. Almost at the right / north end of that wall (by the widest easiest entrance to the corridor).


Location: PA : Northeast Ridges and Valley... : Mocanaqua (Shickshinny) : The Library : Main Block, Back Side : Cornflake Crack (5.7)
By: kenr When: May 24, 2014

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Comments: Location is on the backside wall (west face) of the main detached block, which is the east wall of the corridor behind that block. Not far from the right / north end of that wall.


Location: PA : Northeast Ridges and Valley... : Mocanaqua (Shickshinny) : The Library : Main Block, Back Side : Grey Face (5.9)
By: kenr When: May 24, 2014

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Comments: Location is on the backside wall (west face) of the main detached block, which is the east wall of the corridor behind that block. In the right / north half of that wall.


Location: PA : Northeast Ridges and Valley... : Mocanaqua (Shickshinny) : The Library : Main Block, Back Side : Lavwelle Latte (5.8)
By: kenr When: May 24, 2014

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Comments: Location is on the backside wall (west face) of the main detached block, which is the east wall of the corridor behind that block. In the left / south half of that wall.


Location: PA : Northeast Ridges and Valley... : Mocanaqua (Shickshinny) : The Library : Main Block, Front Side : Urine Over Your Head (5.8)
By: kenr When: May 24, 2014

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Comments: Location is on the frontside wall of the main detached block (the east face visible on approach from Paradise), at the left / north corner of the obvious chimney around center-right of that face.


Location: PA : Northeast Ridges and Valley... : Mocanaqua (Shickshinny) : The Library : Main Block, Front Side : Nuclear Arms (5.12)
By: kenr When: May 24, 2014

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Comments: Location is on the frontside wall of the main detached block (the east face visible on approach from Paradise), near the left / north end of the face.


Location: PA : Northeast Ridges and Valley... : Mocanaqua (Shickshinny) : The Library : Rear Wall : Thunderstud (5.12b)
By: kenr When: May 24, 2014

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Comments: Location is on the rear wall (east wall of the corridor, not on the detached block), and not near its left / north end.


Location: PA : Northeast Ridges and Valley... : Mocanaqua (Shickshinny) : The Library : Rear Wall : Stairway to Heaven (5.9)
By: kenr When: May 24, 2014

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Comments: Location is on the rear wall (east wall of the corridor, not on the detached block),
to the right of The Bitch is Back and left of Thunderstud/Thunderbolt.


Location: PA : Northeast Ridges and Valley... : Mocanaqua (Shickshinny) : The Library
By: kenr When: May 24, 2014

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Comments: I think it will be helpful to divide the routes for the Library into three sections -- because it's a bit complicated. The main thing you see when approaching from Paradise is the large detached block. Then when you get there you discover a corridor behind the block, between the block and a "normal" non-detached cliff face. The corridor and the two main faces of the block all run roughly SSW to NNE. The widest and easiest entrance to the corridor is on its NNE end.
So it makes sense to have thes... more >>


Location: PA : Northeast Ridges and Valley... : Mocanaqua (Shickshinny)
By: kenr When: May 24, 2014

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Comments: Driving from Philadelphia or Lehigh valley or New Jersey or New York City, usually faster to take I-80 West to exit 256, then rt 93 north + west about 3 miles, then turn right on rt 239 North and go 7.5 miles north (with several turns) through Wapwallopen to Mocanaqua. (without using rt 11 or visiting Shickshinny).


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Cathedral Range : Matthes Crest : North ridge of Matthes Cres... (5.8)
By: kenr When: Sep 20, 2013

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Comments: Variation 2: This is a way to completely avoid both mini-towers, along with avoiding the wide flat section of the ridge which is N or the mini-towers. (A less radical way to avoid the mini-towers is Variation 1 in the Description above.)

alternate Start: To use Variation 2 as an alternate start of the climbing, after hiking the Approach to get S past the Echo Peaks and Echo Ridge, hike farther S down along below the W side of the Matthes Crest. You will see the two highest summits rou... more >>


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Cathedral Range : Matthes Crest : North ridge of Matthes Cres... (5.8)
By: kenr When: Sep 19, 2013

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Comments: My questions for the Matthes Crest are: What are the most remarkable rock structures and interesting climbing sequences? How can I do those in the most fun way? How can I make sure I don't run out of time or weather before I get to those?

I had already done lots of nice ridge-traverse routes in Europe and USA, so I wasn't mainly interested to just "tick off" one more. Instead I wanted to experience what makes Matthes special.

My answers so far are that the most interesting rock and climbing ar... more >>


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Near Trapps : a. Beginning of cliff to Ge... : Gelsa (5.4)
By: kenr When: Sep 7, 2013

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Comments: I figured out why we were having trouble with the end of the low long traverse. There's one way which is easier for somebody like 5' 6" or taller and another way which is do-able at a wider range of reach/heights. I continued horizontally even farther left, around the outside corner, down a little into a wide L-facing corner - next to the Roseland bolts-and-chains anchor. (I guess that's the lower "alcove" in the description above?) Then up the L-facing corner over a bulge, then back R around th... more >>


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : h. The Arrow Wall - CCK : Moonlight (5.6)
By: kenr When: Sep 6, 2013

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Comments: A #4 camalot (or two) could be useful for the P1 crux off the first big ledge. The non-positive moves keep coming for longer than you'd expect for a Gunks 6. Both ledge-hit and swing-hit potential? It's a bit of shock the first thing in the morning. (If you just want to focus on the semi-famous situations of P2, consider leading P1 of Updraft, since most of the rest of Moonlight P1 is fairly easy anyway).

If you only have one #4, consider placing it for the first move into the P1 tr... more >>


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : h. The Arrow Wall - CCK : Cascading Crystal Kaleidosc... (5.8 PG13)
By: kenr When: Sep 5, 2013

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Comments: P2 option 2 may indeed be better protected than the others as an option if you're 5ft9in -- but also pretty height/reach dependent if less than that. Pretty exciting at 5ft7in to lunge for the bigger more positive higher hold (sorta blind, up over the bulge). If much less than 5ft7in, making a long deadpoint for it must be just an act of faith.


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