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Member Since: Oct 29, 2010
Last Visit: 42 mins ago
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Point Rank: # 1,243
Total Points: 483
Last Year: 271
Last 30 Days: 7
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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All 666 | Routes 17 | Areas 6 | Photos 14 | Page Improvments | Comments 178 | Posts 371 | Stars 61 | Ratings 19
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: NY : The Gunks : Peterskill : The Golden Wall : Fickle Fingers (5.10a/b)
By: kenr When: Dec 4, 2012

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Comments: It's a typical Gunks finger crack: Don't expect to get many good jams, be prepared to use it some other way.

Indeed the first roof is very reachy. If much less than 5ft9in, be prepared to make a serious dynamic lunge for it.


Location: NY : The Gunks : Peterskill : The Golden Wall : Skink (5.8-)
By: kenr When: Dec 4, 2012

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Comments: The start of the hand-traverse is perhaps a bit more than 5 ft to the right. Pretty delicate to get into it, if much less than 5ft8in.

Nice collection of interesting moves.


Location: NY : The Gunks : Peterskill : The Golden Wall : Scoop Face (5.9 R)
By: kenr When: Dec 4, 2012

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Comments: as a TR: Excellent slab/face climb, lotsa thoughtful moves.

Top-Rope straightforward to set up with a static line and wrap some slings around chockstones in top of rift break like 30ft across top to West


Location: NY : The Gunks : Peterskill : The Golden Wall : Scoop Arete (5.8)
By: kenr When: Dec 4, 2012

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Comments: Actually has real "arete" moves -- perhaps the only climb in the Gunks less than 5.10 with them -- moves where you grab the arete edge itself, move across the arete, etc.
As we say so often in the Gunks: Too bad this couldn't be longer.

Crux is very reachy. If much less than 5ft9in, be ready to make a dynamice deadpoint -- to a nice positive hold.

Top-Rope straightforward to set up with a static line and wrap some slings around chockstones in top of rift break like 30ft across top to West, wit... more >>


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : b. Jackie and friends : Jackie (5.5)
By: kenr When: Nov 12, 2012

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Comments: I agree with Ian Dibbs above and thought the overhang at the top of Pitch 1 takes some real arm strength if you don't have the height/reach. You can be as good as you want with rock sense or dancing your feet, which are key to the lower and middle crux sections of Pitch 1, but if you don't have the arm strength (or reach), you're not getting through that top crux.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Near Trapps : a. Beginning of cliff to Ge... : Disneyland (5.6)
By: kenr When: Nov 11, 2012

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Comments: There's no need for the cramped belay of the first pitch (if doing it in two pitches). As Wormly81 pointed out, just continue a few feet higher past the cramped alcove to a solid-looking piton in a horizontal crack which easily takes additional pro to back up the piton.


Location: NY : West Point : Poison Ivy Wall : Reach of Faith (5.7)
By: kenr When: Nov 7, 2012

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Comments: I remember when Karl + I climbed this around November 2011, at least one of the bolts seemed rather old in style -- and fairly rusty.

Some of the moves are tricky and intimidating (and to me felt harder than 5.7), so might want to check in advance if those bolts have been replaced, or have a contingency plan in case you find when you get up there that you don't want to trust them to hold a fall.


Location: NY : West Point : Poison Ivy Wall : Gunkish (5.6)
By: kenr When: Nov 7, 2012

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Comments: 5.8 is what I'd rate this as a sport route.
  • because I felt that the slab/friction moves at the start were about as tough as the hardest moves on "Bolt Line" (5.8) at Rumney.
(If your slab/friction "game" is not up to full power, think about stick-clipping, or at least make sure you get some good spotting).

  • because I felt like the direct line over the upper overhang about as tough as the harder moves on "Metamorphosis" (5.8) at Rumney.



Location: NY : West Point : Poison Ivy Wall : Gunkish (5.6)
By: kenr When: Nov 7, 2012

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Comments: Now seems to me the upper section has two distinct lines of bolts (as of 2012):
one going mostly to the left of the upper overhang, and the other directly over the upper overhang.
I feel that both are interesting, but the right line is much harder.


Location: NY : West Point : Poison Ivy Wall : Dr Death (5.8)
By: kenr When: Nov 7, 2012

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Comments: Now to me there seems to be two distinct bolt lines on or near this route (as of 2012).

The "Dr Death" name painted under the left line has been crossed out, and the newer painted name saying "Dr Death" has an arrow pointing toward the right line of bolts.

The bolt+chain anchor at the top of the left line has painted by it "Know the Code". So I guess perhaps here on MountainProject we could call the left line either "Dr Death Left" or "Know the Code Right".

I'd say the lower section of the ri... more >>


Location: NY : West Point : Poison Ivy Wall : Know The Code (5.6)
By: kenr When: Nov 7, 2012

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Comments: Actually there's almost three different bolt lines on or near the route, which finish at three different bolt+chain anchors ...
(1) Above the first corner, one goes diagonal left, then up to the left-most R-facing corner at the top.
(2) Another goes directly up from the first corner, to finish at the middle R-facing corner at the top.
(3) A third line starts about 6 feet north of the first corner and goes up roughly directly to the another R-facing corner below the tree at the top.

All have s... more >>


Location: NY : West Point : Poison Ivy Wall
By: kenr When: Nov 7, 2012

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Comments: my impressions so far ...

  • Texture of the rock surface is not as coarse as the Gunks, so it can feel slippery to the hands, but I find that the friction is generally pretty good with clean dry climbing rubber on the feet. (Though if you're not accustomed to carefully placing and really trusting your feet on small slopy holds, be prepared to stick-clip the starts of some of the climbs, especially the slab routes near the north end.)

  • Not recommended for a first outdoor sport Lead for those wh...
 more >>


Location: NY : West Point : Poison Ivy Wall : The Savage Within aka Blood... (5.11a)
By: kenr When: Nov 5, 2012

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Comments: One historic desctription gives the Railroad Tie count as
RRT# 17 (makes no difference to the sequence of routes)

One of the historic "official" descriptions gives the difficulty grade as 5.11, another shows it as 5.10


Location: NY : West Point : Poison Ivy Wall : Know The Code (5.6)
By: kenr When: Nov 5, 2012

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Comments: RRT# 244
(between "Dr Death" and "Sister #2")
. so this route is near the South / Left end of the cliff - (not the right end) .

The historic "official" grade is 5.6
The historic Start description was:
"Two right facing corners 12 up about 50 from the south end of the crag."The historic route description was:
"Up slab and step around left, passing first corner. Diagonal left for 4th and 5th bolt....exiting left for easier way or go straight up (5.6) to ramp. Step to right, and u... more >>


Location: NY : West Point : Poison Ivy Wall : Knob and Chain (5.8)
By: kenr When: Nov 5, 2012

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Comments: RRT# 168
(between "The Laws of Physics are Strictly Enforced!" and "Extra Johnson")

The historic "official" grade is 5.8+


Location: NY : West Point : Poison Ivy Wall : May the net Forces be with ... (5.7+)
By: kenr When: Nov 5, 2012

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Comments: RRT# 163
(between "Gravity Never Sleeps" and "Knob and Chain", roughly the same start point as "The Laws of Physics are Strictly Enforced!")

The historic "official" grade is 5.7+


Location: NY : West Point : Poison Ivy Wall : Opposition AKA Here it come... (5.8)
By: kenr When: Nov 5, 2012

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Comments: The historic "official" grade is 5.8

This route is near the North / Right end of the cliff - (not the left end)


Location: NY : West Point : Poison Ivy Wall : Window on the Hudson (5.7)
By: kenr When: Nov 5, 2012

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Comments: The historic "official" grade is 5.7

This route is near the North / Right end of the cliff - (not the left end) .


Location: NY : West Point : Poison Ivy Wall : Hot Wire (5.8+)
By: kenr When: Nov 5, 2012

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Comments: The historic "official" grade is 5.8+

This route is at the North / Right end of the cliff - (not the left end)


Location: NY : West Point : Poison Ivy Wall : The Laws of Physics are str... (5.8+)
By: kenr When: Nov 5, 2012

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Comments: RRT# 162
(between "Gravity Never Sleeps" and "Knob and Chain", roughly the same start point as "May the Net Forces Be with You")

The historic "official" name is "The Laws of Physics are Strictly Enforced!"
The historic "official" grade is 5.8+


Location: NY : West Point : Poison Ivy Wall : Side Pull Plus (5.9-)
By: kenr When: Nov 5, 2012

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Comments: RRT# 124
(between "the Nose" and "Diagonal")

The historic "official" name is "Side Pulls Plus"
The historic difficulty grade is 5.9-


Location: NY : West Point : Poison Ivy Wall : Pink Butt Tights (5.6)
By: kenr When: Nov 5, 2012

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Comments: RRT# 93

The historic "official" grade is 5.6-


Location: NY : West Point : Poison Ivy Wall
By: kenr When: Nov 4, 2012

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Comments: As of November 2012, the sequence (Left-to-Right) of eleven out of the routes on the PI Wall given here so far on MountainProject is mostly opposite to the actual sequence on the cliff.
e.g. "Hot Wire" is given as one of the Left-most routes here on MountainProject.
But on the actual cliff (which faces East), "Hot Wire" is the North-most and therefore Right-most route.

So for now I think a more reliable way to determine the sequence of climbs on the PI Wall here on MountainProject is to use th... more >>


Location: NY : West Point : Poison Ivy Wall
By: kenr When: Nov 4, 2012

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Comments: The PI Wall is a bolted sport-climbing cliff.
There are roughly 65 single-pitch routes (as of 2012).
I think some of the routes might be higher than 80 feet / 25 meters, but most are less than 100 feet / 30 meters high.
Names of most of the routes are carefully painted on the rock at the base (as of 2012).

Difficulty Grades -- my opinion is that the historic "official" difficulty ratings (which have been copied into most of the route descriptions so far here on MountainProject as of 2012) are a... more >>


Location: NY : West Point : Poison Ivy Wall
By: kenr When: Nov 4, 2012

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Comments: Getting There
. (for those lacking US military ID) . (as of 2012):
Take route 9W then route 218 to Highland Falls NY. About 0.1 mile (200 meters) south of Thayer Gate of the U.S. Military Academy ("West Point") is a McDonalds restaurant. If driving from the south, then immediately before McD, turn Right (East) on Station Rd, which goes down a steep hill with a sharp curve or two. Just before reach railroad tracks at bottom of hill, see private parking on Right (south) -- Park there:
GPS latitud... more >>


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