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Member Since: Oct 29, 2010
Last Visit: 11 hours ago
Contact kenr


Point Rank: # 515
Total Points: 1,206
Last Year: 805
Last 30 Days: 51
6 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has kenr been climbing?










Contributions


All 925 | Routes 42 | Areas 11 | Photos 77 | Page Improvements 4 | Comments 224 | Posts 446 | Stars 96 | Ratings 25
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Contributed Photos

Photo Caption Location Date
SE up to southern-most buttress of W face

SE up to southern-most buttress of W face

CA : Sierra Eastside : ... : Aretes of Crystal Crag dire... (5.6)

Aug 27, 2013

up to summit aretes above W face

up to summit aretes above W face

CA : Sierra Eastside : ... : Aretes of Crystal Crag dire... (5.6)

Aug 27, 2013

SE to Crystal Crag - three summits

SE to Crystal Crag - three summits

CA : Sierra Eastside : ... : Aretes of Crystal Crag dire... (5.6)

Aug 27, 2013

NE side of North ridge of Crystal Crag

NE side of North ridge of Crystal Crag

CA : Sierra Eastside : ... : North ArÍte (5.6)

Aug 27, 2013

north from the North summit to the crystal section

north from the North summit to the crystal section

CA : Sierra Eastside : ... : Aretes of Crystal Crag dire... (5.6)

Aug 26, 2013

Contributed Comments

 

Location: NY : West Point : Poison Ivy Wall : Ziggy's Overhang (5.8)
By: kenr When: Nov 12, 2014

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Comments: Karl and I top-roped most of Ziggys with a directional from the Nose anchor bolts. Suatained interesting climbing on the lower two-thirds. The direct finish (V2) was way harder (interesting slab moves).


Location: NY : West Point : Poison Ivy Wall
By: kenr When: Nov 12, 2014

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Comments: Walking access as of November 2014:
We saw a new sign beside the railroad track at the bottom of Station Rd, identified by "CSX corp" (? the railroad company ?) and saying "No Trespassing", with a standard pictorial symbol of a person walking with a circle around it and a diagonal slash over the person.

I don't know the legal issues or the history.

The PI Wall rock itself is at least 20 feet away from the railroad track. It's on the west side, so there is no need to cross the track in order t... more >>


Location: NY : West Point : Poison Ivy Wall : Triple Banger Overhanger (5.10+)
By: kenr When: Nov 12, 2014

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Comments: At my height the obvious line through the first overhang seemed very reachy (I didn't get it, on top-rope). I saw another bolt near the right side of the first overhang, so I tried that, which was not easy, with wicked slippery sloper hands to ledge above.

I sort of remember other reachy slopy stuff in other sections ... so if you're tall and like to make friends with slopy holds, you might enjoy this route.


Location: NY : West Point : Poison Ivy Wall : S&S Left (5.10d)
By: kenr When: Nov 12, 2014

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Comments: Seen from the ground, the crux overhang section looks blank for both hands and feet. Reaching it climbing from below left still feels blank and at first impossible.

Interesting (short) crux sequence -- made easier for me having earlier worked it its finish moves approaching from S&S Right.

Above that I trended right doing the same upper half as "S&S Right" . . . next several interesting 5.8-5.9 moves, finally lots of fun 5.6-5.7 to the top.

I don't remember seeing another line of bolts to the... more >>


Location: NY : West Point : Poison Ivy Wall : Cadet Buster (5.10b)
By: kenr When: Nov 12, 2014

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Comments: To me the crux moves seemed harder than anything on Nosedive in the Gunks. And I felt it was trickier to see even a workable strategy for the crux. Since Nosedive is rated 10b, perhaps Cadet Buster could be rated 10c (but it's less sustained than Nosedive).
(so then Karl said, "Nosedive used to be rated 5.9")


Location: NY : West Point : Poison Ivy Wall : S&S Right (5.10a/b)
By: kenr When: Nov 11, 2014

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Comments: Thoughtful moves up to the obvious overhang, then tricky to figure out how to get through it. Followed by lots of interesting 5.8-5.9 moves above. Followed by fun 5.6-5.7 moves to the top.


Location: NY : West Point : Poison Ivy Wall : Nose (5.8)
By: kenr When: Nov 11, 2014

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Comments: Steel carabiners on the anchor bolts now, for convenient top-roping.

Sustained interesting climbing.


Location: NY : West Point : Poison Ivy Wall : Side Pull Plus (5.9-)
By: kenr When: Nov 11, 2014

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Comments: Sustained interesting moves -- with lots of side-pulls.

Can be top-roped with a short rappel from above the top of the cliff down to the anchor bolts.


Location: NY : West Point : Poison Ivy Wall : Message to Garcia (5.10+)
By: kenr When: Nov 5, 2014

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Comments: Interesting varied crux sequence, sustained at the difficulty grade.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Cathedral Range : Matthes Crest : North ridge of Matthes Cres... (5.8)
By: kenr When: Oct 24, 2014

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Comments: North end of South mini-tower:
Charles and I spent some time working on this section while climbing the N ridge last summer. Here's what I took away from it:
The N arete and the E side of the arete looked way more difficult than anything else on the Matthes Crest N ridge or S ridge.
Which left the NorthWest side ...
We found it was easier to first traverse around to its W side, perhaps after dropping down 10 feet below notch, then rising traverse on narrow ledge. Charles got some protection wit... more >>


Location: NY : Ramapo Powerlinez (Torne Va... : High Electricity : Static (5.8-)
By: kenr When: Sep 28, 2014

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Comments: Good slab-climbing practice.


Location: NY : Ramapo Powerlinez (Torne Va... : High Electricity : Elmer Fudd (5.3)
By: kenr When: Sep 28, 2014

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Comments: Lots of thoughtful moves at the difficulty grade.

The name given for this route in one of the earlier guidebooks was rather negative and based on a situation which is no longer factual. So in keeping with its neighbor, here we have proposed the name of another Looney Tunes cartoon human character.


Location: NY : Ramapo Powerlinez (Torne Va... : High Electricity : Yosemite Sam (5.5)
By: kenr When: Sep 28, 2014

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Comments: Thoughtful interesting moves the whole way. Completely different from indoor climbing. If only this route were longer.


Location: NY : Ramapo Powerlinez (Torne Va... : High Electricity : High Electricity (5.8+)
By: kenr When: Sep 28, 2014

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Comments: Fun moves on positive holds. If only this were longer.


Location: NY : Ramapo Powerlinez (Torne Va... : Swamp King : Blank This (5.9+)
By: kenr When: Sep 28, 2014

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Comments: I have not had time to do this one yet, so the description above is based on the guidebook.


Location: NY : Ramapo Powerlinez (Torne Va... : Swamp King : Wicked Whoa (5.9)
By: kenr When: Sep 27, 2014

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Comments: Good moves suatained for practicing slab climbing, but unremarkable.
Very much in need of cleaning moss as of 2014.


Location: NY : Ramapo Powerlinez (Torne Va... : Swamp King : Fo Shoa! (5.6)
By: kenr When: Sep 27, 2014

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Comments: Good moves for practicing slab climbing, but unremarkable. Could use some cleaning of moss off holds.


Location: NY : Ramapo Powerlinez (Torne Va... : Swamp King : Moat 'Fo (5.5)
By: kenr When: Sep 27, 2014

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Comments: Perhaps this route had a more interesting and difficult finish before the big tree fell down over it.
Sharon and I did not find it very worthwhile in 2014.


Location: NY : Ramapo Powerlinez (Torne Va... : Swamp King : Crimp Crack (5.7)
By: kenr When: Sep 27, 2014

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Comments: Sustianed interesing thoughtful moves. If only this route were longer.


Location: NY : Ramapo Powerlinez (Torne Va... : Swamp King : Frog Spit (5.7)
By: kenr When: Sep 27, 2014

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Comments: One tough move in the middle, and the rest is interesting enough.


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