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Member Since: Oct 29, 2010
Last Visit: 4 hours ago
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Point Rank: # 503
Total Points: 1,270
Last Year: 869
Last 30 Days: 19
6 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has kenr been climbing?










Contributions


All 1086 | Routes 42 | Areas 11 | Photos 87 | Page Improvements 6 | Comments 232 | Posts 570 | Stars 102 | Ratings 36
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Contributed Photos

Photo Caption Location Date
Unicorn Peak from the west

Unicorn Peak from the west

CA : Yosemite National Park : ... : Unicorn Peak normal route (4th)

Jul 30, 2014

North ridge of Matthes Crest

North ridge of Matthes Crest

CA : Yosemite National Park : ... : North ridge of Matthes Cres... (5.8)

Sep 18, 2013

up to summit arete above West face

up to summit arete above West face

CA : Sierra Eastside : ... : West Face (4th)

Aug 27, 2013

SW to NW + W face of Crystal Crag - three summits

SW to NW + W face of Crystal Crag - three summits

CA : Sierra Eastside : ... : West Face (4th)

Aug 27, 2013

NNW up to first tower - close

NNW up to first tower - close

CA : Sierra Eastside : ... : South Ridge (Easy 5th)

Aug 27, 2013

N up South Ridge to first tower

N up South Ridge to first tower

CA : Sierra Eastside : ... : South Ridge (Easy 5th)

Aug 27, 2013

N up South ridge to first tower

N up South ridge to first tower

CA : Sierra Eastside : ... : South Ridge (Easy 5th)

Aug 27, 2013

N up South ridge to first tower

N up South ridge to first tower

CA : Sierra Eastside : ... : Aretes of Crystal Crag dire... (5.6)

Aug 27, 2013

base of southern-most buttress - close

base of southern-most buttress - close

CA : Sierra Eastside : ... : Aretes of Crystal Crag dire... (5.6)

Aug 27, 2013

two west face buttresses: southern-most buttress o...

two west face buttresses: southern-most buttress on Right

CA : Sierra Eastside : ... : Aretes of Crystal Crag dire... (5.6)

Aug 27, 2013

SE up to southern-most buttress of W face

SE up to southern-most buttress of W face

CA : Sierra Eastside : ... : Aretes of Crystal Crag dire... (5.6)

Aug 27, 2013

up to summit aretes above W face

up to summit aretes above W face

CA : Sierra Eastside : ... : Aretes of Crystal Crag dire... (5.6)

Aug 27, 2013

SE to Crystal Crag - three summits

SE to Crystal Crag - three summits

CA : Sierra Eastside : ... : Aretes of Crystal Crag dire... (5.6)

Aug 27, 2013

NE side of North ridge of Crystal Crag

NE side of North ridge of Crystal Crag

CA : Sierra Eastside : ... : North Arête (5.6)

Aug 27, 2013

north from the North summit to the crystal section

north from the North summit to the crystal section

CA : Sierra Eastside : ... : Aretes of Crystal Crag dire... (5.6)

Aug 26, 2013

Contributed Comments

 

Location: NY : Ramapo Powerlinez (Torne Va... : The Tower Wall : Johnson Route (5.7+)
By: kenr When: Apr 6, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: The obvious Top-Rope set from the rappel tree at the top of cliff goes down over the upper part of Johnson, on the climber's right side of the vertical "torpedo". So an obvious TR line is to start on Rachels Crack then traverse Right under the torpedo to finish on Johnson. Though doing all of Johnson from the bottom as a TR works fine also. Likely most climbers begin with some combination of Rachels and Johnson.


Location: NY : West Point : Poison Ivy Wall
By: kenr When: Mar 13, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: I had the good luck a couple of weeks ago to run into a climber who knew lots more about the history and legalities than me -- said it’s too bad about the complexity of access to the PI Wall now with the change in policy of the railroad. Likely that influenced the USMA climbing team to decide not to hold their PI Wall festival/competition in Fall 2014.

Said that walking in alongside the train tracks is trespassing on railroad company right-of-way. But hiking in from the south across the hillsid... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Second Pullout : The Black Corridor : Upper Level : 757 2x4 (5.7)
By: kenr When: Dec 2, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Overall fun, with a variety of move situations. Thoughtful right off the ground. Thoughtful at the crux mid-way.

An advantage of the higher positiong of top anchor is can use that to protect horizontal traverse Left to the top anchor of "Oils Well That Ends Well".


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Whitney/Lone Pine Area : Alabama Hills : The Tall Wall : Bananarama (5.8)
By: kenr When: Nov 28, 2014

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Comments: Seemed not quite as difficult, not quite as thoughtful, as Rotten Bananas to its left.
Lots of fun moves on positive holds, well worth doing.

Leading this Sport route is also useful to afterward get down and right to reach the top anchor for Banana Split to set a Top-Rope on that route (which otherwise would require leading on big-size Trad gear).


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Whitney/Lone Pine Area : Alabama Hills : The Tall Wall : Spur (5.7)
By: kenr When: Nov 28, 2014

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Comments: Fun route. Some people get confused about what to do high on the arete, so for them it's less fun.
Perhaps easier (and more fun?) if do not always climb close to the bolt line.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Whitney/Lone Pine Area : Alabama Hills : The Tall Wall : Rotten Bananas (5.7)
By: kenr When: Nov 28, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: A little harder, and a little more interesting than Bananarama


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Whitney/Lone Pine Area : Alabama Hills : The Tall Wall : Banana Split (5.8)
By: kenr When: Nov 28, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Fun Top-Rope from its anchor (which we reached from above left, from Bananarama anchor). Top half is a fun dihedral (we stayed away from the wide crack in the back). Bottom has variety of moves using crack in different ways.

top-rope Variation lower half: The face between the Bananarama bolts and the lower cracks. Interesting moves, felt like 10c or so.
. . (some questionable small flakes -- bottom belay should stand off to the side)

top-rope Variation upper half: The arete whic... more >>


Location: International : Europe : France : Grenoble : Vercors : ... : Tour des Gémeaux (5.9 PG13)
By: kenr When: Nov 26, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: The first moves of P1 are very height dependent (FR "morpho").

The bolts at the crux of the route are very closely spaced. And the feet there are polished. So lots of people aid those couple of moves by using the bolts.

We simul-climbed some of the upper pitches.

The rappel descent route is not trivial to figure out.

My feeling is there's other routes in France with more fun climbing moves, better protection.


Location: NY : West Point : Poison Ivy Wall : Ziggy's Overhang (5.8)
By: kenr When: Nov 12, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Karl and I top-roped most of Ziggys with a directional from the Nose anchor bolts. Suatained interesting climbing on the lower two-thirds. The direct finish (V2) was way harder (interesting slab moves).


Location: NY : West Point : Poison Ivy Wall
By: kenr When: Nov 12, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Walking access as of November 2014:
We saw a new sign beside the railroad track at the bottom of Station Rd, identified by "CSX corp" (? the railroad company ?) and saying "No Trespassing", with a standard pictorial symbol of a person walking with a circle around it and a diagonal slash over the person.

I don't know the legal issues or the history.

The PI Wall rock itself is at least 20 feet away from the railroad track. It's on the west side, so there is no need to cross the track in order t... more >>


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