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Member Since: Oct 29, 2010
Last Visit: 1 hour ago
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Point Rank: # 1,431
Total Points: 403
Last Year: 210
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All (510) | Routes (16) | Areas (2) | Photos (14) | Comments (143) | Posts (269) | Stars (49) | Ratings (17)
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: NY : West Point : Poison Ivy Wall : Opposition AKA Here it come... (5.8)
By: kenr When: Nov 5, 2012

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Comments: The historic "official" grade is 5.8

This route is near the North / Right end of the cliff - (not the left end)


Location: NY : West Point : Poison Ivy Wall : Window on the Hudson (5.7)
By: kenr When: Nov 5, 2012

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Comments: The historic "official" grade is 5.7

This route is near the North / Right end of the cliff - (not the left end) .


Location: NY : West Point : Poison Ivy Wall : Hot Wire (5.8+)
By: kenr When: Nov 5, 2012

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Comments: The historic "official" grade is 5.8+

This route is at the North / Right end of the cliff - (not the left end)


Location: NY : West Point : Poison Ivy Wall : The Laws of Physics are str... (5.8+)
By: kenr When: Nov 5, 2012

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Comments: RRT# 162
(between "Gravity Never Sleeps" and "Knob and Chain", roughly the same start point as "May the Net Forces Be with You")

The historic "official" name is "The Laws of Physics are Strictly Enforced!"
The historic "official" grade is 5.8+


Location: NY : West Point : Poison Ivy Wall : Side Pull Plus (5.9-)
By: kenr When: Nov 5, 2012

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Comments: RRT# 124
(between "the Nose" and "Diagonal")

The historic "official" name is "Side Pulls Plus"
The historic difficulty grade is 5.9-


Location: NY : West Point : Poison Ivy Wall : Pink Butt Tights (5.6)
By: kenr When: Nov 5, 2012

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Comments: RRT# 93

The historic "official" grade is 5.6-


Location: NY : West Point : Poison Ivy Wall : The Savage Within aka Blood... (5.10)
By: kenr When: Nov 5, 2012

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Comments: RRT# 17
(in between "Opposition" and "49")
. so this route is near the North / Right end of the cliff - (not the left end) .

The "official" name is "The Savage Within aka Sister #1"
(There is another description of this same route here on MountainProject, as of November 2012)

One of the historic "official" descriptions gives the difficulty grade as 5.11, another shows it as 5.10


Location: NY : West Point : Poison Ivy Wall
By: kenr When: Nov 4, 2012

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Comments: As of November 2012, the sequence (Left-to-Right) of eleven out of the routes on the PI Wall given here so far on MountainProject is mostly opposite to the actual sequence on the cliff.
e.g. "Hot Wire" is given as one of the Left-most routes here on MountainProject.
But on the actual cliff (which faces East), "Hot Wire" is the North-most and therefore Right-most route.

So for now I think a more reliable way to determine the sequence of climbs on the PI Wall here on MountainProject is to use th... more >>


Location: NY : West Point : Poison Ivy Wall
By: kenr When: Nov 4, 2012

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Comments: The PI Wall is a bolted sport-climbing cliff.
There are roughly 65 single-pitch routes (as of 2012).
I think some of the routes might be higher than 80 feet / 25 meters, but most are less than 100 feet / 30 meters high.
Names of most of the routes are carefully painted on the rock at the base (as of 2012).

Difficulty Grades -- my opinion is that the historic "official" difficulty ratings (which have been copied into most of the route descriptions so far here on MountainProject as of 2012) are a... more >>


Location: NY : West Point : Poison Ivy Wall
By: kenr When: Nov 4, 2012

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Comments: Getting There
. (for those lacking US military ID) . (as of 2012):
Take route 9W then route 218 to Highland Falls NY. About 0.1 mile (200 meters) south of Thayer Gate of the U.S. Military Academy ("West Point") is a McDonalds restaurant. If driving from the south, then immediately before McD, turn Right (East) on Station Rd, which goes down a steep hill with a sharp curve or two. Just before reach railroad tracks at bottom of hill, see private parking on Right (south) -- Park there:
GPS latitud... more >>


Location: NH : Rumney : Armed and Dangerous Area (M... : Toxic Gumbo (5.8)
By: kenr When: Oct 17, 2012

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Comments: In addition to the fun moves, some thoughtful navigation in a couple of places.
I had some rope drag in the upper section (I guess due to the transition from the lower overhang to gentler section immediatly above) -- not sure what to do about it, anyway the climbing was easy enough so it didn't get in my way.


Location: NY : The Gunks : Peterskill : Psycho Wall : Psycho Crack Right (5.8)
By: kenr When: Oct 9, 2012

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Comments: Seemed straightforward to just start in the open book - (trying to follow the description above, I didn't see the "arch" out to the side).

Crux seemed squirmy: the off-width as advertised -- and more than just squirmy, had some moves I had to think about -- so I guess I'd call it "interesting off-width". Otherwise lots of fun face climbing.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Crane Mountain : Black Arches Wall : Gun Show (5.10a)
By: kenr When: Aug 26, 2012

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Comments: The first low crux is not just forearm strength, also tricky to make the feet stick. So it's worth taking some time on placing protection before trying the move. I didn't lead it, but here's what I remember from removing the protection:
Hidden inside the upper section of the flary crack is a pocket that takes a cam (? small-medium ?). Then with a long partly-blind reach, my leader placed a stopper (? medium-large ?) higher up - (which then held two falls). I'd guess you do not actually have to b... more >>


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Crane Mountain : Black Arches Wall : Pinch an Inch (5.10a R)
By: kenr When: Aug 7, 2012

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Comments: I thought the intricate lower crux sequence was significantly harder than some other 10a sections I've done -- and harder than anything on Black Arches Arete (but that route is more sustained + exposed).

Surely worthwhile to play on the crux as a top-rope from the shared anchor with Broken Broom and Amphitheater Crack.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Crane Mountain : Black Arches Wall : Broken Broom (5.10a)
By: kenr When: Aug 7, 2012

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Comments: Intricate face moves. I've heard that a key handhold for the balancy low crux is now less positive than a year ago.

Note that there is another route "Pinch an Inch" close next to it on climber's Right (with a harder low crux sequence, but easier climbing higher up). And higher up it's possible to wander left onto the (easier) top section of "Amphitheater Crack". So to find the harder more interesting climbing above the low crux stay reasonably close to the line of bolts (and away from less-clea... more >>


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Crane Mountain : Black Arches Wall : Black Arch ArÍte (5.10b PG13)
By: kenr When: Aug 7, 2012

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Comments: Great variety of moves in a great space (on top-rope).
Adding to the variety is the short "Adirondack obligatory awkward" chimney start.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Crane Mountain : Black Arches Wall : Amphitheatre Crack (5.9+)
By: kenr When: Aug 7, 2012

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Comments: Lots of interesting moves on good rock.
Maybe it's "soft" for the grade (in the sense that it doesn't take much finger or arm strength) if you just commit to the move (from layback right to stemming left), but to me both feet felt pretty tenuous, until I made the next little step up -- so I can understand why some people find it difficult to commit.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Crane Mountain : Left of Ladder : Thank You, Cindy (5.7)
By: kenr When: Aug 7, 2012

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Comments: Fun interesting moves, but the rock is inferior to much in the SouthEast area (e.g. Black Arches + Diagonal Ramp Wall).
I took a little slide when the sandy surface of the rock sheared off under a frictiony step I took, so I got a "road rash" scrape on my lower leg.

There's another route of similar difficulty and interesting moves (not sure of protection, since we lowered in from the top), a few feet to the northwest (climber's Left) from "Thank You Cindy" -- but in greater need of cleaning.

R... more >>


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Crane Mountain : Left of Ladder
By: kenr When: Aug 7, 2012

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Comments: After hiking to the summit, we made the rappel down into the climbs just southeast of "Thank You Cindy" -- 60 meter rope should be sufficient to reach base of rock (leaving a short steep scramble down thru trees + brush).
We found the rappel by walking northwest from the summit on the main trail for about 150-250 feet. At a rock outcrop viewpoint, we went down toward the top of the cliff, first on the south side of the outcrop, then like ten feet thru low bushes to find a rope around tree with t... more >>


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Crane Mountain : Black Arches Wall
By: kenr When: Aug 7, 2012

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Comments: There is now a new trail up to the SouthEast area (from a different start point along the access road) which is shorter more direct, than going thru Boulderwoods from the main Crane Mt Trailhead parking.
(I leave it to the local experts to decide how to give details for this.)


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Crane Mountain
By: kenr When: Aug 7, 2012

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Comments: Note that the shortest easiest trail access to the SouthEast area (from a different start point along the access road) is now rather different from the map + directions in the latest print edition of the Adirondack Rock guidebook. (I leave it to the local experts to decide how to give details for this.)


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Crane Mountain : Diagonal Ramp Wall
By: kenr When: Aug 7, 2012

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Comments: Note that this wall is not the same as the "Diagonal" area in the Summmit section of Crane Mt. I guess the Summit area gets it's name from the diagonal cracks that run across it -- while this section in the SouthEast area gets its name from the steep slope up from left to right across the base of the wall.

approach -- roughly 500 vertical feet of uphill hiking from the road, over less than a mile of horizontal distance.

location ...
latitude/longitude approximate: (N43.54262 W73.95514)
UTM app... more >>


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Crane Mountain : Diagonal Ramp Wall : Felonious Mopery (5.9-)
By: kenr When: Aug 7, 2012

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Comments: Maybe the start is easier if start higher to the right? (but then the only difficult part is the obvious overhang).

Interesting question whether the crux goes easier as a pure layback, or with some jamming?

Actually the non-crux sections are nice enough, just much easier than the crux.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Crane Mountain : Diagonal Ramp Wall : Tun Tavern (5.8+)
By: kenr When: Aug 7, 2012

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Comments: Variety of interesting climbing moves, pretty fun. Could be much tougher for someone shorter that 5 ft 5 inch. Or much more tricky jamming in one section with non-large hands -- With my fairly large hands, I had nice fist jams in that middle section, but I guess someone with much smaller than that might need to do some sort of "stacking" jams (or some other trick)


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : h. The Arrow Wall - CCK : Andrew (5.4 PG13)
By: kenr When: Aug 4, 2012

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Comments: Sharon + I thought P3 + P4 were great today. Fun moves, reasonably well-protected (I carried doubles of all cams Camalot #1 or smaller down to around Mastercam 0 / C3 0). She said she felt well-protected following except for one place, and we both agree that it was because I wasn't carrying doubles of Camalot #2, so I could make only one placement in one of the later horizontal traverse cracks.

I led with double ropes and used lots of long runners, so it worked well to combine P3 + ... more >>


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