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Member Since: Oct 29, 2010
Last Visit: 18 mins ago
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
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All 661 | Routes 16 | Areas 5 | Photos 14 | Page Improvments | Comments 178 | Posts 369 | Stars 60 | Ratings 19
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: NY : The Gunks : The Near Trapps : b. Gelsa to Moe (closure) : Yum Yum Yab Yum (5.4)
By: kenr When: Jul 27, 2013

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Comments: Did it again today with Sharon. Had more climbing moves than I remembered.
I did not notice any ledge-fall-hit potential in the 20 ft above the first big pine tree with rappel slings. I was able to get threaded placement low on the right side, then another high on the right side before making the traverse to the left. Then another high placement of cam (with a second cam as backup) about two-thirds of the way across the traverse. Then I was able to reach around to the left-facing corner. But Sha... more >>


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : c. Frog's Head - the Arch : Baby (5.6)
By: kenr When: Jun 9, 2013

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Comments: I think the off-width is more fun done as a layback - (also more committing) - (likely more scary).
Sometimes I wish the Gunks had some good practice on off-widths, but I've found the possible off-width here is too short to be useful.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : c. Frog's Head - the Arch : Easy Overhang (5.2)
By: kenr When: Jun 9, 2013

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Comments: The new chains + rings at the optional belay 50 feet up on P2 (which is also the top anchor for Son of Easy O) makes it easy for the leader to stop there and maintain good communinication with a follower who might be having trouble with the overhang low on P2. Or having trouble with the slopy mantle just before the the optional belay.

I think the overhang on P2 is 5.2 only if the climber sees the best sequence (and is strong and confident). Otherwise could be troublesome for a beginner. Also th... more >>


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : c. Frog's Head - the Arch : Sixish (5.5)
By: kenr When: Jun 6, 2013

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Comments: After leading it again today, still one of my favorite less-than-5.6 climbs in the Gunks: for the variety of situations, and the fun of the non-difficult moves on positive holds.

Using double-ropes carefully made it easy to protect both me and my follower well on P1 and P3.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : a. The Uberfall : Dirty Chimney (5.0)
By: kenr When: May 28, 2013

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Comments: I still like it two years later (after not climbing it at all in the 2012 season because of a warning sign).

I guess that a few feet below the top of the lower "chimney" section, most people exit to the right to the bolt anchors for Laurel. It's a little harder to continue directly those last few feet to the top of the lower section.

The upper section is indeed dirtier -- and has a tricky exit move at the top of the whole climb -- might be 5.2


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : l. Sleepy Hollow : Wegetables I've Never Seen ... (5.10a)
By: kenr When: May 15, 2013

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Comments: Straightforward to set up a top-rope on Tennish Anyone (10c with some interesting moves) after doing Wegetables.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : l. Sleepy Hollow : Tennish Anyone? (5.10c)
By: kenr When: May 15, 2013

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Comments: Straightforward to set up a top-rope on this after doing Wegetables (10a).

I think one key move below the main overhang might be pretty height related: At 169.5cm / 5ft7in I felt I could just barely "walk" my fingers onto the obvious rock horn.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : l. Sleepy Hollow : 10,000 Restless Virgins (5.10d)
By: kenr When: May 15, 2013

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Comments: My first 10d (following) in the Gunks. Moves thru the roof easier than expected (with excellent coaching by my partner). The moves felt to me like an "indoor" sequence. The problems were to get over the intimidation, see how to start the sequence, and (for the leader) to protect it well.

At 169.5cm / 5ft7in roughly normal reach, I could grab the key bucket fully static, no deadpoint needed. I'd guess it would be much harder for someone less than 168cm / 5ft6in.

My partner leading foun... more >>


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : a. The Uberfall : Uberfall Descent (Easy 5th)
By: kenr When: May 11, 2013

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Comments: I'm not sure what the BITD route is, but there is an alternate route with more interesting climbing moves and less "obvious" exposure, at no greater difficulty than the one described above here. The top is tricky to find, so it's best to try it out first from the bottom, which is how I'll describe it here ...

Between Squiggles and Susie A, below some fractured rock with vertical blast-hole semi-tubes: Diagonal up right to a bent tree trunk, pass above or below that, diagonal up right some more ... more >>


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : c. Frog's Head - the Arch : Maria (5.6)
By: kenr When: May 11, 2013

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Comments: To me both the start into the P1 traverse and the traverse itself seemed well-protected. The start into it which seemed easiest and better protected was lower than I expected, significantly lower than the Frog's Head crux bulge. The move up into the traverse was a little tricky, but seemed not harder than 5.5.

From talking with very experienced Gunks climbers, what I've heard is that the people who think the traverse is difficult or not well protected are taking it too high. To me the hands and... more >>


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Near Trapps : a. Beginning of cliff to Ge... : Te Dum (5.7)
By: kenr When: Apr 11, 2013

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Comments: Lots of interesting climbing at the 6 and 7 level, with some thoughtful moves not typical for Gunks face climbing, one sequence pretty exciting. Pro not always easy to place, so good to have some previous experience with Gunks leading. Normally I'm a strong advocate of double-ropes, but in this case the diagonal line doesn't have many "bends" in it, seemed to go pretty well with a single rope.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Near Trapps : b. Gelsa to Moe (closure) : Farewell to Arms (5.8)
By: kenr When: Apr 11, 2013

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Comments: Sustained and exciting, lots of moves around 7 and 8 which are not like typical Gunks face moves (and nothing like indoor moves). The traverse seemed to actually go downwards a bit from right to left. The first move into the traverse is pretty exciting (and you might get banged up if you fall there), but perhaps not fully 8 in difficulty once you work it out carefully.

The key is not to freak out in the sustained corner section above after the traverse. There are lots of moves requiring thought... more >>


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Near Trapps : b. Gelsa to Moe (closure) : Roseland (5.9)
By: kenr When: Apr 11, 2013

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Comments: Lots of climbing at 8 and more. No single notably hard move, though one seemed a bit reachy for those of us less than 5ft9in. Good technique helps save strength on the lower two-thirds, but I think the key to success is plenty of finger endurance to get thru the upper traverse, and without freaking out so do not miss that actually it's gotten easier further right on the traverse.

Note that if the follower falls after unclipping the first piton on the upper traverse, might fall down to a place o... more >>


Location: NV : Water World
By: kenr When: Jan 30, 2013

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Comments: We were visiting from New York, wanted to try some limestone, hoped it would be sheltered from the winds that had been blowing. We had a 2WD normal (low) clearance rental car, so driving in past the quarry could not be an option for us -- even if it were legal to do it (a question I leave for lawyers local Las Vegas residents).

Some things we found out:
  • The climbing was interesting, and different from other rock we've tried before, in two ways: lots of rather sharp edges, and mostly vertical...
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Location: NV : Water World : Atlantis (5.9)
By: kenr When: Jan 29, 2013

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Comments: My partner and I both thought that the first 20 feet of Atlantis was significantly harder than anything on Inland Sea just to the left of it.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Mindless Mound : Rainy Day Women (5.7)
By: kenr When: Jan 29, 2013

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Comments: For the Left crack:
Not for the beginning Crack leader.
My partner and I both thought the crux was at least as hard as any move on Sail Away (which we did three days before).
For me the crux move was a combination of tenuous jam, tenuous layback, tenuous feet -- which all taken together were enough to hold the move. So for physical strength perhaps it's no more than 7, but for technical mastery and mental creativity + staying-cool-on-Lead maybe it's 8+

For an experienced crack climber who is ac... more >>


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Mindless Mound : Maggie's Farm (5.7)
By: kenr When: Jan 29, 2013

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Comments: For the Right crack:
Not for the beginning Crack leader.
My partner and I both thought the crux was at least as hard as any move on Sail Away (which we did three days before).

Agree that trying more stemming seemed to help. But didn't seem like much fun.

The descent is non-difficult class 3. Which also applies to scrambling up to the top to set up a Top-Rope for the route (in case the above comments scared anyone off from leading it). We found it straightforward to set up for Top-Roping off t... more >>


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Dairy Queen Wall : Dairy Queen Wall - Right Si... : Frosty Cone (5.7)
By: kenr When: Jan 28, 2013

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Comments: We found a single bolt to the north near the top of Misty Kiss (in January 2013). The quicklink on it was kind of small for easy pulling the rope thru. Someone had added a bigger nice rappel ring attached by a short length of webbing. We tested it on belay, then rapped off the single bolt.
This was after watching then talking with another party who was not having fun with the down-climb.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Indian Cove : Indian Cove Campground : Short Wall : ... : Double Trouble (5.10a)
By: kenr When: Jan 28, 2013

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Comments: Great practice on small slopy hand- and footholds. Lots of features which look from the ground like they should be positive edges ... turn out not to be when you get there.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Indian Cove : Indian Cove Campground : Short Wall : ... : Step 'n Out (5.10a)
By: kenr When: Jan 28, 2013

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Comments: Lots of interesting moves not like other climbs -- especially foot jams, but not only that.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Echo Rock Area : Little Hunk : Little Hunk - NE Face : ... : Incandescent (5.8)
By: kenr When: Jan 28, 2013

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Comments: Lots of interesting footwork. Pretty intimidating to lead if you haven't been on friction for a while.

Height-dependence of the move like five feet off the ground:
I'd say if much less than 5ft 8inch with normal reach, that move is around 10b (seemed harder than any move on two of the 10a pitches I did later that same day).
If much less than 5ft 7inch, then the move is much harder than 10b.
But maybe could do it anyway with Aid: grab the draw placed on the first bolt, or hang a couple of sling... more >>


Location: NJ : mills reservation
By: kenr When: Dec 26, 2012

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Comments: My feeling is that while the Mills rock does have some worthwhile moves for experienced outdoor climbers, it is not a fun introduction to outdoor rock for indoor gym climbers. Because the holds near the ground are sort of strange and slopy, often hard to find from below, lots of feeling around. Especially the obvious "main crack".

There's so few NJ gym climbers nowadays who get outdoors at all, so if one of them wants to try, better not to humiliate them in their first moves just getti... more >>


Location: NJ : mills reservation
By: kenr When: Dec 26, 2012

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Comments: Does anyone know if climbing is really permitted there?
I'm not any sort of lawyer or attorney, but I've never heard that it's legal to do roped climbing there. Nor have I heard that it's illegal.

The NJ Rock Climbing printed guidebook said they didn't know either. Their advice was to back off and go away if anyone questioned whether you should be climbing there -- not get into a confrontation, not try to assert that you have a "right" to climb.
(There was another rock along the same ridge in ... more >>


Location: NY : The Gunks : Peterskill : The Golden Wall : Fickle Fingers (5.10a/b)
By: kenr When: Dec 4, 2012

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Comments: It's a typical Gunks finger crack: Don't expect to get many good jams, be prepared to use it some other way.

Indeed the first roof is very reachy. If much less than 5ft9in, be prepared to make a serious dynamic lunge for it.


Location: NY : The Gunks : Peterskill : The Golden Wall : Skink (5.8-)
By: kenr When: Dec 4, 2012

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Comments: The start of the hand-traverse is perhaps a bit more than 5 ft to the right. Pretty delicate to get into it, if much less than 5ft8in.

Nice collection of interesting moves.


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