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Member Since: Oct 29, 2010
Last Visit: 10 hours ago
Contact kenr


Point Rank: # 1,431
Total Points: 403
Last Year: 210
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Contributions


All (510) | Routes (16) | Areas (2) | Photos (14) | Comments (143) | Posts (269) | Stars (49) | Ratings (17)
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: NV : Water World : Atlantis (5.9)
By: kenr When: Jan 29, 2013

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Comments: My partner and I both thought that the first 20 feet of Atlantis was significantly harder than anything on Inland Sea just to the left of it.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Mindless Mound : Rainy Day Women (5.7)
By: kenr When: Jan 29, 2013

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Comments: For the Left crack:
Not for the beginning Crack leader.
My partner and I both thought the crux was at least as hard as any move on Sail Away (which we did three days before).
For me the crux move was a combination of tenuous jam, tenuous layback, tenuous feet -- which all taken together were enough to hold the move. So for physical strength perhaps it's no more than 7, but for technical mastery and mental creativity + staying-cool-on-Lead maybe it's 8+

For an experienced crack climber who is ac... more >>


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Mindless Mound : Maggie's Farm (5.7)
By: kenr When: Jan 29, 2013

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Comments: For the Right crack:
Not for the beginning Crack leader.
My partner and I both thought the crux was at least as hard as any move on Sail Away (which we did three days before).

Agree that trying more stemming seemed to help. But didn't seem like much fun.

The descent is non-difficult class 3. Which also applies to scrambling up to the top to set up a Top-Rope for the route (in case the above comments scared anyone off from leading it). We found it straightforward to set up for Top-Roping off t... more >>


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Dairy Queen Wall : Dairy Queen Wall - Right Si... : Frosty Cone (5.7)
By: kenr When: Jan 28, 2013

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Comments: We found a single bolt to the north near the top of Misty Kiss (in January 2013). The quicklink on it was kind of small for easy pulling the rope thru. Someone had added a bigger nice rappel ring attached by a short length of webbing. We tested it on belay, then rapped off the single bolt.
This was after watching then talking with another party who was not having fun with the down-climb.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Indian Cove : Indian Cove Campground : Short Wall : ... : Double Trouble (5.10a)
By: kenr When: Jan 28, 2013

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Comments: Great practice on small slopy hand- and footholds. Lots of features which look from the ground like they should be positive edges ... turn out not to be when you get there.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Indian Cove : Indian Cove Campground : Short Wall : ... : Step 'n Out (5.10a)
By: kenr When: Jan 28, 2013

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Comments: Lots of interesting moves not like other climbs -- especially foot jams, but not only that.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Echo Rock Area : Little Hunk : Little Hunk - NE Face : ... : Incandescent (5.8)
By: kenr When: Jan 28, 2013

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Comments: Lots of interesting footwork. Pretty intimidating to lead if you haven't been on friction for a while.

Height-dependence of the move like five feet off the ground:
I'd say if much less than 5ft 8inch with normal reach, that move is around 10b (seemed harder than any move on two of the 10a pitches I did later that same day).
If much less than 5ft 7inch, then the move is much harder than 10b.
But maybe could do it anyway with Aid: grab the draw placed on the first bolt, or hang a couple of sling... more >>


Location: NJ : mills reservation
By: kenr When: Dec 26, 2012

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Comments: My feeling is that while the Mills rock does have some worthwhile moves for experienced outdoor climbers, it is not a fun introduction to outdoor rock for indoor gym climbers. Because the holds near the ground are sort of strange and slopy, often hard to find from below, lots of feeling around. Especially the obvious "main crack".

There's so few NJ gym climbers nowadays who get outdoors at all, so if one of them wants to try, better not to humiliate them in their first moves just getti... more >>


Location: NJ : mills reservation
By: kenr When: Dec 26, 2012

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Comments: Does anyone know if climbing is really permitted there?
I'm not any sort of lawyer or attorney, but I've never heard that it's legal to do roped climbing there. Nor have I heard that it's illegal.

The NJ Rock Climbing printed guidebook said they didn't know either. Their advice was to back off and go away if anyone questioned whether you should be climbing there -- not get into a confrontation, not try to assert that you have a "right" to climb.
(There was another rock along the same ridge in ... more >>


Location: NY : The Gunks : Peterskill : The Golden Wall : Fickle Fingers (5.10a/b)
By: kenr When: Dec 4, 2012

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Comments: It's a typical Gunks finger crack: Don't expect to get many good jams, be prepared to use it some other way.

Indeed the first roof is very reachy. If much less than 5ft9in, be prepared to make a serious dynamic lunge for it.


Location: NY : The Gunks : Peterskill : The Golden Wall : Skink (5.8-)
By: kenr When: Dec 4, 2012

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Comments: The start of the hand-traverse is perhaps a bit more than 5 ft to the right. Pretty delicate to get into it, if much less than 5ft8in.

Nice collection of interesting moves.


Location: NY : The Gunks : Peterskill : The Golden Wall : Scoop Face (5.9 R)
By: kenr When: Dec 4, 2012

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Comments: as a TR: Excellent slab/face climb, lotsa thoughtful moves.

Top-Rope straightforward to set up with a static line and wrap some slings around chockstones in top of rift break like 30ft across top to West


Location: NY : The Gunks : Peterskill : The Golden Wall : Scoop Arete (5.8)
By: kenr When: Dec 4, 2012

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Comments: Actually has real "arete" moves -- perhaps the only climb in the Gunks less than 5.10 with them -- moves where you grab the arete edge itself, move across the arete, etc.
As we say so often in the Gunks: Too bad this couldn't be longer.

Crux is very reachy. If much less than 5ft9in, be ready to make a dynamice deadpoint -- to a nice positive hold.

Top-Rope straightforward to set up with a static line and wrap some slings around chockstones in top of rift break like 30ft across top to West, wit... more >>


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : b. Jackie and friends : Jackie (5.5)
By: kenr When: Nov 12, 2012

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Comments: I agree with Ian Dibbs above and thought the overhang at the top of Pitch 1 takes some real arm strength if you don't have the height/reach. You can be as good as you want with rock sense or dancing your feet, which are key to the lower and middle crux sections of Pitch 1, but if you don't have the arm strength (or reach), you're not getting through that top crux.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Near Trapps : a. Beginning of cliff to Ge... : Disneyland (5.6)
By: kenr When: Nov 11, 2012

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Comments: There's no need for the cramped belay of the first pitch (if doing it in two pitches). As Wormly81 pointed out, just continue a few feet higher past the cramped alcove to a solid-looking piton in a horizontal crack which easily takes additional pro to back up the piton.


Location: NY : West Point : Poison Ivy Wall : Reach of Faith (5.7)
By: kenr When: Nov 7, 2012

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Comments: I remember when Karl + I climbed this around November 2011, at least one of the bolts seemed rather old in style -- and fairly rusty.

Some of the moves are tricky and intimidating (and to me felt harder than 5.7), so might want to check in advance if those bolts have been replaced, or have a contingency plan in case you find when you get up there that you don't want to trust them to hold a fall.


Location: NY : West Point : Poison Ivy Wall : Gunkish (5.6)
By: kenr When: Nov 7, 2012

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Comments: 5.8 is what I'd rate this as a sport route.
  • because I felt that the slab/friction moves at the start were about as tough as the hardest moves on "Bolt Line" (5.8) at Rumney.
(If your slab/friction "game" is not up to full power, think about stick-clipping, or at least make sure you get some good spotting).

  • because I felt like the direct line over the upper overhang about as tough as the harder moves on "Metamorphosis" (5.8) at Rumney.



Location: NY : West Point : Poison Ivy Wall : Gunkish (5.6)
By: kenr When: Nov 7, 2012

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Comments: Now seems to me the upper section has two distinct lines of bolts (as of 2012):
one going mostly to the left of the upper overhang, and the other directly over the upper overhang.
I feel that both are interesting, but the right line is much harder.


Location: NY : West Point : Poison Ivy Wall : Dr Death (5.8)
By: kenr When: Nov 7, 2012

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Comments: Now to me there seems to be two distinct bolt lines on or near this route (as of 2012).

The "Dr Death" name painted under the left line has been crossed out, and the newer painted name saying "Dr Death" has an arrow pointing toward the right line of bolts.

The bolt+chain anchor at the top of the left line has painted by it "Know the Code". So I guess perhaps here on MountainProject we could call the left line either "Dr Death Left" or "Know the Code Right".

I'd say the lower section of the ri... more >>


Location: NY : West Point : Poison Ivy Wall : Know The Code (5.6)
By: kenr When: Nov 7, 2012

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Comments: Actually there's almost three different bolt lines on or near the route, which finish at three different bolt+chain anchors ...
(1) Above the first corner, one goes diagonal left, then up to the left-most R-facing corner at the top.
(2) Another goes directly up from the first corner, to finish at the middle R-facing corner at the top.
(3) A third line starts about 6 feet north of the first corner and goes up roughly directly to the another R-facing corner below the tree at the top.

All have s... more >>


Location: NY : West Point : Poison Ivy Wall
By: kenr When: Nov 7, 2012

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Comments: my impressions so far ...

  • Texture of the rock surface is not as coarse as the Gunks, so it can feel slippery to the hands, but I find that the friction is generally pretty good with clean dry climbing rubber on the feet. (Though if you're not accustomed to carefully placing and really trusting your feet on small slopy holds, be prepared to stick-clip the starts of some of the climbs, especially the slab routes near the north end.)

  • Not recommended for a first outdoor sport Lead for those wh...
 more >>


Location: NY : West Point : Poison Ivy Wall : Savage within AKA Sister (5.11a)
By: kenr When: Nov 5, 2012

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Comments: One historic desctription gives the Railroad Tie count as
RRT# 17 (makes no difference to the sequence of routes)

One "official" name is "The Savage Within aka Sister #1"
(There is another description of this same route here on MountainProject, as of November 2012)

One of the historic "official" descriptions gives the difficulty grade as 5.11, another shows it as 5.10


Location: NY : West Point : Poison Ivy Wall : Know The Code (5.6)
By: kenr When: Nov 5, 2012

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Comments: RRT# 244
(between "Dr Death" and "Sister #2")
. so this route is near the South / Left end of the cliff - (not the right end) .

The historic "official" grade is 5.6
The historic Start description was:
"Two right facing corners 12 up about 50 from the south end of the crag."The historic route description was:
"Up slab and step around left, passing first corner. Diagonal left for 4th and 5th bolt....exiting left for easier way or go straight up (5.6) to ramp. Step to right, and u... more >>


Location: NY : West Point : Poison Ivy Wall : Knob and Chain (5.8)
By: kenr When: Nov 5, 2012

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Comments: RRT# 168
(between "The Laws of Physics are Strictly Enforced!" and "Extra Johnson")

The historic "official" grade is 5.8+


Location: NY : West Point : Poison Ivy Wall : May the net Forces be with ... (5.7+)
By: kenr When: Nov 5, 2012

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Comments: RRT# 163
(between "Gravity Never Sleeps" and "Knob and Chain", roughly the same start point as "The Laws of Physics are Strictly Enforced!")

The historic "official" grade is 5.7+


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