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Member Since: Oct 29, 2010
Last Visit: 8 hours ago
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Point Rank: # 734
Total Points: 865
Last Year: 464
Last 30 Days: 135
6 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has kenr been climbing?










Contributions


All 787 | Routes 27 | Areas 9 | Photos 50 | Page Improvements 3 | Comments 201 | Posts 396 | Stars 78 | Ratings 23
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Contributed Photos

Photo Caption Location Date
NNW up to first tower - close

NNW up to first tower - close

CA : Sierra Eastside : ... : South Ridge (Easy 5th)

Aug 27, 2013

N up South Ridge to first tower

N up South Ridge to first tower

CA : Sierra Eastside : ... : South Ridge (Easy 5th)

Aug 27, 2013

N up South ridge to first tower

N up South ridge to first tower

CA : Sierra Eastside : ... : South Ridge (Easy 5th)

Aug 27, 2013

N up South ridge to first tower

N up South ridge to first tower

CA : Sierra Eastside : ... : Aretes of Crystal Crag dire... (5.6)

Aug 27, 2013

base of southern-most buttress - close

base of southern-most buttress - close

CA : Sierra Eastside : ... : Aretes of Crystal Crag dire... (5.6)

Aug 27, 2013

two west face buttresses: southern-most buttress on Right

two west face buttresses: southern-most buttress on Right

CA : Sierra Eastside : ... : Aretes of Crystal Crag dire... (5.6)

Aug 27, 2013

SE up to southern-most buttress of W face

SE up to southern-most buttress of W face

CA : Sierra Eastside : ... : Aretes of Crystal Crag dire... (5.6)

Aug 27, 2013

up to summit aretes above W face

up to summit aretes above W face

CA : Sierra Eastside : ... : Aretes of Crystal Crag dire... (5.6)

Aug 27, 2013

SE to Crystal Crag - three summits

SE to Crystal Crag - three summits

CA : Sierra Eastside : ... : Aretes of Crystal Crag dire... (5.6)

Aug 27, 2013

NE side of North ridge of Crystal Crag

NE side of North ridge of Crystal Crag

CA : Sierra Eastside : ... : North ArÍte (5.6)

Aug 27, 2013

north from the North summit to the crystal section

north from the North summit to the crystal section

CA : Sierra Eastside : ... : Aretes of Crystal Crag dire... (5.6)

Aug 26, 2013

Contributed Comments

 

Location: NY : Ramapo Powerlinez (Torne Va... : The Tower Wall : Back to the Wall (5.7+ PG13)
By: kenr When: 1 day ago

view comment >>
Comments: Yes going directly up over the lower-middle bulge (perhaps more toward its left side) adds some interesting challenge for the Follower.

Higher is another (harder) variation for the Follower is (instead of diagonaling left to the upper arete), to go straight up toward the upper bulge, then traverse left close under the bulge to join the arete higher up.


Location: PA : Northeast Ridges and Valley... : Mocanaqua (Shickshinny) : The Library : Main Block, Front Side
By: kenr When: Aug 24, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Many people like to lead the (bolted) Warm Up Route (on the back wall of the main block) to set up Top-Ropes for routes on this front wall.
Note that the lower half of that route is way harder than 5.6, and does have ledge-hit fall potential.


Location: PA : Northeast Ridges and Valley... : Mocanaqua (Shickshinny) : The Library : Main Block, Back Side
By: kenr When: Aug 24, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Many people like to lead the (bolted) Warm Up Route to set up Top-Ropes for routes on this wall (also for routes on the Front wall of the main block).
Note that the lower half of that route is way harder than 5.6, and does have ledge-hit fall potential.


Location: PA : Northeast Ridges and Valley... : Mocanaqua (Shickshinny) : The Library : Main Block, Back Side
By: kenr When: Aug 24, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Bolts for "Easy Day for a Layback" (on the left of Lavwelle Latte) are missing hangers as of August 2014.


Location: PA : Northeast Ridges and Valley... : Mocanaqua (Shickshinny) : The Library : Rear Wall
By: kenr When: Aug 24, 2014

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Comments: Hangers on the bolts on the horizontal rock at the top of this wall are still all missing as of August 2014.

I saw intact rings on one anchor which is in the vertical rock just below the top of this wall.


Location: PA : Northeast Ridges and Valley... : Mocanaqua (Shickshinny) : The Library : Main Block, Back Side : Cornflake Crack (5.7)
By: kenr When: Aug 24, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Starts about ten or fifteen feet left of the first bolt for Warmup Route (which is the right-most bolted route on this wall).

The most protectable start is at a thin crack left from below the not-so-thin flake/crack of the upper half of this route. Many leaders will find this harder than 5.7.
(Perhaps more interesting to start even farther left, at the 1-inch crack in the right side of the Grey Nose, then crossing right into the thin crack.)

Variation: Could also start directly below the upper... more >>


Location: PA : Northeast Ridges and Valley... : Mocanaqua (Shickshinny) : The Library : Main Block, Back Side : Warm Up Route (5.6)
By: kenr When: Aug 24, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: This route is at least 5.8 - (not remotely 5.6).
Several tricky moves, with at least one critical move relying on a small fingerhold.

Work out very carefully the belay / protection methods required to avoid hitting a ledge or bulge if blow one of the moves in the lower half - (? bring a stick-clip ?)
. (I am not suggesting that the bolts are badly placed -- I think the problem is just the structure of the rock).

The first move off the low ledge is much more difficult if have shorter legs.


Location: PA : Northeast Ridges and Valley... : Mocanaqua (Shickshinny) : The Library : Main Block, Back Side : Grey Face (5.9)
By: kenr When: Aug 24, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: It does not start just right of the Brass Monkey route. Rather there's a wide chimney and at least thirty feet distance between.

It does start at the left side of the low grey nose just left of the lower left thin crack of the Cornflake Crack route. The first bolt is at the top of a small shallow dihedral. The next two bolts are in the clean-looking slab/face a little to the left of the upper right-facing corner which is below a higher top block.


Location: PA : Northeast Ridges and Valley... : Mocanaqua (Shickshinny) : The Library : Main Block, Back Side : Lavwelle Latte (5.8)
By: kenr When: Aug 24, 2014

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Comments: I think it starts behind a living tree.
Just to the right of "Good Day for a Layback" (whose bolts are missing their hangers as of August 2014). Just to the left of "The Murky Way" (bolted).

Somebody said the name of this route means "Milky Way", and that it was named for white streaks that ran down from the bolts that were first installed. But now these streaks are not visible.


Location: PA : Northeast Ridges and Valley... : Mocanaqua (Shickshinny) : The Library : Main Block, Back Side : Brass Monkey (5.8)
By: kenr When: Aug 24, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: I found no line of bolts between Great Expectations and the arete at the north (right) end of this section of the wall. There were at least three bolts on Great Expectations; and there were at least two bolts very close to the corner / arete at the left side of the obvious wide chimney at the right end of this section of the wall -- but no bolts in between.

The Holtzman guidebook lists Brass Monkey with a protection rating of X.
I don't see how that fits with having three bolts.


Location: PA : Northeast Ridges and Valley... : Mocanaqua (Shickshinny) : The Library : Main Block, Back Side : Flamer (5.11a)
By: kenr When: Aug 24, 2014

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Comments: Now one of the two trees at the bottom has been sawed and removed, so now this route starts between a tree on the left and a stump on the right, about eight feet apart.

Left of "Great Expectations" (bolted) and Right of "The Murky Way" (bolted) - (which is Right of "Lavwelle Latte" (bolted).

. (Might be only three bolts now instead of four?)

Variation (easier but not so well protected) is to traverse Right partway up, then move back Left about eight feet below the small upper roof. Plenty of ... more >>


Location: CA : High Sierra : Mt. Russell
By: kenr When: Aug 16, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: West summit is higher than the East summit.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Mammoth Lakes Area : Horseshoe Lake Area : Horseshoe Slabs
By: kenr When: Aug 15, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Approach:
About 0.5 mile / 0.9km gentle walk from Parking (GPS lat long ~ N37.6129 W119.0208) by the N end of Horseshoe Lake.
Toilets at parking, but we did not see any bear-proof food storage containers (as of 2014).

Directions: From the Parking, start south on a wide straight dirt mountain-bike trail following about 50 yards/meters from the west shore of Horseshoe Lake. After about 0.25 mile / 400m cross the first bridge. Trail gets narrower and curvier. After another 0.25 mile / 400m, the 5t... more >>


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Mammoth Lakes Area : Dike Wall : East Face : Cromagnon (5.10a)
By: kenr When: Aug 10, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: After the initial overhang, it's dead vertical to the top. Remarkable that no single move is harder than 10a.
But it keeps coming at you.
Would be even better if it required more variety of techniques.


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