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Member Since: Oct 29, 2010
Last Visit: 6 hours ago
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Point Rank: # 1,243
Total Points: 483
Last Year: 271
Last 30 Days: 7
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has kenr been climbing?










Contributions


All 662 | Routes 16 | Areas 5 | Photos 14 | Page Improvments | Comments 178 | Posts 370 | Stars 60 | Ratings 19
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Contributed Photos

Photo Caption Location Date
N up South Ridge to first tower

N up South Ridge to first tower

CA : Sierra Eastside : ... : South Ridge (Easy 5th)

Aug 27, 2013

N up South ridge to first tower

N up South ridge to first tower

CA : Sierra Eastside : ... : South Ridge (Easy 5th)

Aug 27, 2013

N up South ridge to first tower

N up South ridge to first tower

CA : Sierra Eastside : ... : Aretes of Crystal Crag dire... (5.6)

Aug 27, 2013

base of southern-most buttress - close

base of southern-most buttress - close

CA : Sierra Eastside : ... : Aretes of Crystal Crag dire... (5.6)

Aug 27, 2013

two west face buttresses: southern-most buttress on Right

two west face buttresses: southern-most buttress on Right

CA : Sierra Eastside : ... : Aretes of Crystal Crag dire... (5.6)

Aug 27, 2013

SE up to southern-most buttress of W face

SE up to southern-most buttress of W face

CA : Sierra Eastside : ... : Aretes of Crystal Crag dire... (5.6)

Aug 27, 2013

up to summit aretes above W face

up to summit aretes above W face

CA : Sierra Eastside : ... : Aretes of Crystal Crag dire... (5.6)

Aug 27, 2013

SE to Crystal Crag - three summits

SE to Crystal Crag - three summits

CA : Sierra Eastside : ... : Aretes of Crystal Crag dire... (5.6)

Aug 27, 2013

NE side of North ridge of Crystal Crag

NE side of North ridge of Crystal Crag

CA : Sierra Eastside : ... : North ArÍte (5.6)

Aug 27, 2013

north from the North summit to the crystal section

north from the North summit to the crystal section

CA : Sierra Eastside : ... : Aretes of Crystal Crag dire... (5.6)

Aug 26, 2013

Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : High Sierra : Mt. Emerson : Southeast Face (aka the Wat... (5.4)
By: kenr When: 4 days ago

view comment >>
Comments: Some statistics ...
  • approach to start of 5th class climbing from official day-visitor Parking:
. . about 2000 vertical feet over 2.5 miles horizontal
. . / ( +600 meters over 4 km distance )

  • start of 5th class climbing to summit
. . about 2000 vertical feet over 0.5 mile horizontal
. . / ( +600 meters over 0.8km distance)

  • summit ridge climbing (including upper descent section NW from summit)
. . about 1100 ft horizontal (330 meters)

  • Total from official Parking to summit
. . abo... more >>


Location: CA : High Sierra : Mt. Emerson : Southeast Face (aka the Wat... (5.4)
By: kenr When: 4 days ago

view comment >>
Comments: Had a lot of fun on it today.
The summit ridge is great, and continued for longer than I expected. The starting moves are interesting, and there's lots of other good gully climbing. And it's worthwhile as routefinding "adventure" out in the middle of this big face -- not sure when's the best time to switch to a different gully, where to get on the ridge, etc.

But it has more drawbacks than some other great Sierra ridge routes: The descent of the south face on sand and scree is not fun at all, a... more >>


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : a. The Uberfall : Junior (5.9+ R)
By: kenr When: Jul 19, 2014

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Comments: Interesting crux sequence. Worthwhile as top-rope with directional from Laurel anchor bolts.
(Not surprisingly, much more difficult if much shorter than 5ft7in / 170cm with normal reach.)


Location: NY : Ramapo Powerlinez (Torne Va... : The Good Book Wall : Rachel (5.10b)
By: kenr When: Jul 12, 2014

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Comments: I suspect the first semi-blind reach at the crux overhang is way harder for people much less tall than 5ft6inch. And then the third reach is pretty long too.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : a. The Uberfall : Horseman (5.5)
By: kenr When: Jul 12, 2014

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Comments: I found the big corner / dihedral had lots of awkward moves. Not many with elegant stemming, and fewer of those if your legs aren't fairly long.

Overall a interesting + great climb, but don't be surprised if you can't find an elegant way to do much of the dihedral.

I think the direct variation (continuing up the corner where it gets overhanging along left side of roof) is pretty fun (though likely much harder for people less tall than 5ft5inch).


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : a. The Uberfall : Boston (5.5 PG13)
By: kenr When: Jul 12, 2014

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Comments: At last got the whole thing with no chimney-ing, squirming, or jamming whatsoever. Pretty enjoyable and satisfying that way.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : b. Jackie and friends : Miss Bailey (5.6 PG13)
By: kenr When: Jul 12, 2014

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Comments: Lots of variety and some interesting moves -- but much of that is in the chimney sections. So you really have to be ready for serious chimney -- and most people nowadays (including me) are not.

The overhangs on P3 are intimidating and strenuous, but not that interesting. And surely harder than 5.6. Perhaps each single move is within 5.6, but the sequences are pretty sustained (and a couple of key moves lack footholds).

I found the exit from the lower chimney interesting and not awkward -- prov... more >>


Location: NY : Ramapo Powerlinez (Torne Va... : Stockade Wall : Crankenstein (5.11- PG13)
By: kenr When: Jun 18, 2014

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Comments: Start is just a few feet left of the three left-leaning cracks (the cracks of Once Was Choss But Now Is Found and Dave's A-Peelin')


Location: NY : Ramapo Powerlinez (Torne Va... : Stockade Wall
By: kenr When: Jun 18, 2014

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Comments: We climbed there recently, seemed like interesting moves on nice rock. Seemed about 40-50 feet high. The top of Stockade (GPS latitude longitude approx N41.14495 W74.16497) is at the same level as the bottom of the Tower Wall, located a short ways east of the east end of the Tower Wall. With some tricky scrambling, it is possible connect between the bottom of the Tower Wall and the west side of the bottom of Stockade Wall. Or there is a use trail up to the cliff bottom from the dirt road to its ... more >>


Location: NY : Ramapo Powerlinez (Torne Va... : The Tower Wall : The Red Knob (5.7+)
By: kenr When: Jun 18, 2014

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Comments: We belayed the TR from above (nice spot for belayer to sit a little below cliff top), with two directionals placed on down-climb -- followed the finish toward Left as in description above. Thought that made a very interesting route (even if it's not the correct one doing it on lead).

Note that with road noise it's not easy to communicate between top and bottom.


Location: NY : Ramapo Powerlinez (Torne Va...
By: kenr When: Jun 18, 2014

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Comments: Basilisk Wall:

getting there: Go to the bottom of Tower Wall, then continue west on the same level past Three Bears and Daves Wall. Then past the right turn for the trail uphill to Good Book Wall. Then fairly flat and roughly west past the various "Lenapehocking" boulders, until you see something that matches the photos in the Crefeld guidebook. Basilisk Right is reasonably clean rock with lots of crack features. Past that is some lichen-covered rock. Then a fairly clean face w... more >>


Location: NY : Ramapo Powerlinez (Torne Va... : The Good Book Wall
By: kenr When: Jun 18, 2014

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Comments: After the new trail work is finished, I'm not sure the approach will be an "orange" trail.

Anyway after passing under the Tower Wall and going gentle for a ways past Three Bears and Daves Wall, the trail for Good Book Wall turns right and climbs uphill long before you reach Basilisk Wall. I think the Right turn comes around
latitude longitude (N41.14523 W74.16670).


Location: NY : Ramapo Powerlinez (Torne Va... : The Good Book Wall : Harpoon Me (5.9)
By: kenr When: Jun 18, 2014

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Comments: We did with a rope from the top, anchored with a static line to a tree farther back, hanging it over the edge roughly halfway between two trees near the edge.

I guess I did the either the 5.10 variation or the Whalehunter finish - (I guess I'll know better which after I get the time to try Whalehunter). Anyway it was all very interesting climbing.


Location: NY : Ramapo Powerlinez (Torne Va... : The Tower Wall : Ogre Arete (5.9)
By: kenr When: Jun 6, 2014

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Comments: To me felt like had lots of demanding thoughtful moves -- but not necessarily the most fun kind.


Location: NY : Ramapo Powerlinez (Torne Va... : The Tower Wall : Rachel's Crack (5.8-)
By: kenr When: Jun 6, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Not much jamming, but lots of interesting moves. We finished right of the vertical "torpedo" because that way seemed like an easy way to set top-rope (with belay from bottom) without directionals, and all of us found that the right-side finish was the crux (but really isn't that the finish of the Johnson Route?)

Note that the start of this route is also the start of a different (rather interesting) route (which traverses left off from Rachel's) -- see Tower Wall Direct... more >>


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