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Member Since: Aug 14, 2009
Last Visit: 23 hours ago
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Point Rank: # 3,130
Total Points: 160
Last Year: 0
Last 30 Days: 0
5 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Kenny Clark been climbing?










Contributions


All 341 | Routes 10 | Areas | Photos 5 | Page Improvements | Comments 35 | Posts 80 | Stars 138 | Ratings 73
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: PA : South Central PA : Governor Stable : Pyramid Area : The Dish (V1)
By: Kenny Clark When: Jan 19, 2013

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Comments: Is this called "Dishin' It Out" (V1) in the guidebook?

This was a cool little problem. It took some thought on the low slab, then a cool move to the top. I wouldn't bring a V1 climber here to start out though.


Location: WV : The New River Gorge : New River Gorge Proper : Bubba City : Head Wall : So Freakin' Fun (5.10d)
By: Kenny Clark When: May 4, 2012

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Comments: This is blatant copying of Williams' NRG guidebook (at least cite him). Not trying to be the police, but what can you add to the information on this route?


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Rock Canyon : Galaxy Area : Tatooine : Jawa Jam (5.9)
By: Kenny Clark When: Jul 18, 2011

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Comments: Got a 70 m. It was worth it to do these tall climbs at Tatooine!

The first two bolts of this climb are 2-3 feet apart, and some others are pretty close. I wasn't sure about the bolt count (it really is 16 though), so I thought I would have to skimp in order for my 15 to make it. I ended up using 12, plus something for the anchors. I was able to back clean a few draws (since a lot of them were really close), and skip a couple too. This helped reduce what rope drag might be on this climb.

I ski... more >>


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Rock Canyon : Galaxy Area : Tatooine : Leia's Leash (5.10a)
By: Kenny Clark When: Jul 18, 2011

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Comments: Did it today in two pitches, but I would do it again in one single pitch. My new 70m rope had both ends barely on the ground on the rappel.

The roof system at the last set of chains is awesome! Go straight up them, because the holds are very sweet. What a great end to a classic climb!


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Rock Canyon : P.A.'s Mother : Pissant (5.10b)
By: Kenny Clark When: Jul 13, 2011

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Comments: I agree about the lunge to the top-out ledge. It's the best way to get past that part. Get some decent holds, and go for it. There are really no feet to move up on, plus, the dyno is fun. I guess, if you can get it, you could traverse out left and skip it all, but you're definitely missing the 10b.


Location: UT : Saint George : Woodbury Road Crags : Kelly's Rock : K-8 (5.11b)
By: Kenny Clark When: Jul 4, 2011

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Comments: What is the best beta then to overcome the first roof? I got shut down there when I tried it.


Location: WV : The New River Gorge : New River Gorge Proper : Endless Wall : Snake Buttress : Legacy (5.11a)
By: Kenny Clark When: Jul 4, 2011

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Comments: Yes, FA by Doug Reed and Bob Rentka, 1990 (according to the new guidebook).


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Rock Canyon : The Zoo : The Zoo (5.10b)
By: Kenny Clark When: Jul 4, 2011

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Comments: The finger pockets on the bottom of the route were sweet! I didn't feel like that was the hardest part of the climb for me. The slopey holds on the rest of the route (which was in the sun at the time) were tougher for me. It was probably all the sweat. I wish the bottom part of the route were longer, and it would definitely get another star from me.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Rock Canyon : Galaxy Area : Tatooine : Jawa Jam (5.9)
By: Kenny Clark When: Jul 2, 2011

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Comments: I see John Bitter did this with his 60m rope. It looks a lot taller than a few others I've done that really stretched my 60m.

I'm wondering, is it possible to do this in 2 pitches, by going to the first set of anchors for Scum and Villainy, and then to the top? Or, maybe going all the way to the top, then lowering to those anchors, pulling the rope, then lowering the rest of the way? From the topo picture it looks like this is possible, but I'm wondering if anyone has ever done this. I don't w... more >>


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Rock Canyon : Galaxy Area : Tatooine : The Phantom Menace (5.7)
By: Kenny Clark When: Jul 2, 2011

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Comments: It seems like this is a little height dependent to be a 5.7/8. I was always able to reach the holds and clip the bolts, but my wife is 5'5", and had to do some technical face moves to get past some parts. Overall, I feel like it's a great climb, with a lot of fun movement on it.


Location: UT : Maple Canyon : Maple Canyon Road : The Platform : Caress The Cobble (5.9)
By: Kenny Clark When: Jul 2, 2011

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Comments: I think we counted 9 or 10 bolts on this route. This is a great easy route. Do you want some exposure in Maple? Do this and you won't be disappointed. My wife and I felt like it was about a 5.7, but it was really fun, and sustained for a 5.7.


Location: UT : Maple Canyon : Maple Canyon Road : The Platform
By: Kenny Clark When: Jul 1, 2011

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Comments: My wife is scared of heights (but she climbs with me all the time), so she won't lead much. She cranks in the gym, but is scared outside. I brought her here, and made her lead the two very safe, and very easy 5.7's (on the middle and right side. My understanding is that the 5.9 is on the far left), and Morning Moo's (5.10a) at the Low Standard Cave.

Long story short, she faced her fears and lead all of them. This was awesome, because all three routes are tall and airy. The two 5.7's here are e... more >>


Location: UT : Maple Canyon : Maple Canyon Road : Low Standard Cave : Morning Moo's (5.10a)
By: Kenny Clark When: Jul 1, 2011

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Comments: 10 bolts, with the best at the top. We did a couple of double length draws near the middle section, where the route becomes considerably less than vertical. This helped to manage drag a lot. After this section the climb gets vertical and awesome.

I second the helmet advice: cobbles break and crumble a lot. Also, be careful pulling the rope--we got ours stuck on the shallow-angled middle section on some cobble.


Location: UT : Maple Canyon : Left Fork : The Pipeline : Dynobone (5.10b)
By: Kenny Clark When: Jun 24, 2011

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Comments: There is so much chalk on this thing, and it seems to all accumulate on the inferior, sloping cobbles. In my opinion this is a hard onsight for a 10b. This felt very awkward at first, and I didn't like it at all. I found a better sequence for me on the second go, that involves bigger moves, but to much better holds. I like it much better now. Still only giving it 2 stars though.


Location: UT : Saint George : Woodbury Road Crags : Kelly's Rock
By: Kenny Clark When: May 23, 2011

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Comments: I added a bunch of beta pictures with approximate bolt locations on most of the climbs for the left side. I was a little confused on some of the routes from the Goss book. If anyone has any extra information, especially concerning the unknown routes (FA, etc.), then let me know. I'll update the route descriptions.

I've enjoyed my experiences at Kelly's Rock immensely. The wall has so many different routes: easy jugs up runnels, thin slabs, overhanging boulder problems. What's not to love about... more >>


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Rock Canyon : Galaxy Area : Tatooine
By: Kenny Clark When: May 13, 2011

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Comments: All the routes on the left (routes 3-6 from the topo picture) were very wet today. Some were still climbable, but some of the holds were sopping wet. Maybe it's been the wet spring. Watch the weather for the week before you climb these routes.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Rock Canyon : The Wild : Chupacabra (5.10a)
By: Kenny Clark When: Apr 27, 2011

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Comments: I would 2nd the previous comments. I mistakenly went right the first time I did this. I totally missed the sweet lieback moves. That's where the fun, and the difficulty lies. I also noticed that the footholds in the crux were indeed very polished. If you want your onsight, don't read this next part: a high heel hook can get you past the polished feet.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Rock Canyon : The Appendage : Only Wimps Top-rope the Bul... (5.8)
By: Kenny Clark When: Apr 27, 2011

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Comments: We didn't have any problems leading or following, since we left the draws up. The follower cleaned. It went very nicely. A pretty fun easy climb. My only complaint is it's a little ledgy.


Location: PA
By: Kenny Clark When: Apr 11, 2011

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Comments: I'm moving soon to State College. How is this guidebook for PA climbing: bluebiner.com/all-pa-guidebook...


Location: UT : Maple Canyon : Left Fork : Orangutan Wall : The Angel's Share (5.10c)
By: Kenny Clark When: Apr 3, 2011

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Comments: A long and sustained route. I didn't feel like there was a defining crux, just relax, hold on and push to the anchors. A slight bulge about 60-70 ft up made for some fun moves.


Location: UT : Saint George : Woodbury Road Crags : Kelly's Rock : Unknown 1 (5.6)
By: Kenny Clark When: Apr 3, 2011

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Comments: We saw three routes between "Wet My Whistle" and "The Awakening" as of April 2011. We had a bunch of people get on these. I felt like this one was a pretty good 5.6. My wife thought 5.7. The one to the left we agree was about. We didn't get on the one to the far left (just right of "Wet My Whistle".

This is a great beginner route. Put someone on here that needs to learn to lead. Plenty of feet, and a slight bulge at the top make the last sequence kind of fun.


Location: UT : Saint George : Woodbury Road Crags : Kelly's Rock : K-6 (5.11b)
By: Kenny Clark When: Apr 3, 2011

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Comments: A great climb! The route begins with a sort of technical slab, leading into the scoop. You can rest here forever if you'd like. Clip up to the 3rd bolt, and push through the crux, which was for me through the 4th clip. Some holds past the 4th bolt may be a little hidden, but they are there. Watch your feet. Great movement. Plenty of good holds, with tons of great feet. The rock didn't feel as sharp here as Black and Tan.


Location: UT : Saint George : Woodbury Road Crags : Kelly's Rock : Zealot (5.12d)
By: Kenny Clark When: Apr 1, 2011

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Comments: Goss says it's 40' long.


Location: UT : Maple Canyon : Left Fork : Orangutan Wall : Blackberry (5.10b)
By: Kenny Clark When: Mar 30, 2011

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Comments: According to the Jason Stevens guidebook it looks to me like this route is named Kissing an Angel. Originally rated at 5.10c. It's been a few months since I was there though.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Rock Canyon : P.A.'s Mother : Mama's Boy (5.8+)
By: Kenny Clark When: Mar 30, 2011

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Comments: It seemed to me like the crux was from the 1st to the 2nd bolt, and it's a little ways. If you don't feel comfortable with a possible fall onto the belay ledge, then beware. After the 2nd bolt I felt like it eased up considerably.


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