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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Ogden : 9th Street : "That's What She Said' (5.9+)
By: kennoyce When: 2 hours ago | view comment >> |
Comments: Directly up to the chains from the second to last bolt makes it a solid .10a, I didn't even think of heading right to gain the top ledge, the moves are all there to just follow the line up to the chains.
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Location: ID : City of Rocks : Bath Rock : Bath Rock - Southwest : White Hueco's (5.11a/b)
By: kennoyce When: 3 days ago | view comment >> |
Comments: Nope, bolts are still there, but as was said, the third bolt is horribly placed, it loads the top biner over an edge and also levers the biner open. The bolt needs to be moved since it protects the crux moves.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Salt Lake Slips : High Fructose Corn Syrup (5.8)
By: kennoyce When: May 4, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route is doable with a single 60 meter rope with some shenanegins. Just watch the rope ends and be ready to down climb the last five feet of easy fifth class terrain.
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Location: CA : San Bernardino Mountains : Frustration Creek : Lower Tier : Primal Quest Project (5.12b)
By: kennoyce When: Mar 11, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Feel free to get on this route. I am the guy who bolted this, but I ended up having to move out of state due to work and didn't have time to remove the red tag before I left. I've done all the moves and it feels like about .12b to me, but I wasn't able to link it all before I left. Have fun and post up the FA info when someone gets it.
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Location: CA : San Bernardino Mountains : Frustration Creek : Middle Tier : Burning Bush (5.10c/d) : Photo (Copy)
By: kennoyce When: Nov 26, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I think you've got the routes mixed up, Burning Bush should be the anchors to the left and Burning Book should be the anchors to the right.
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Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : Northwest Recess : Whodunit (5.9)
By: kennoyce When: Nov 5, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: @ Chris D: it looks like you started to the left of Whodunit and joined up with the route just above the 5.9 crux. Looking at your photo, the first pitch crux move is just below and slightly to the right of your position. If you follow the crack that your hands are in to the edge of the photo, then go one crack below it and follow that crack up to the small overlap, that is where the first pitch 5.9 crux is located.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Willow Spring : Ragged Edges Area : Plan F (5.9) (5.9)
By: kennoyce When: Oct 25, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Agreed, I've climbed it a couple of times and it is certainly 5.10a.
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Location: CA : San Bernardino Mountains : Frustration Creek : Lower Tier : Eco Challenge (5.11a)
By: kennoyce When: Oct 20, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Just climbed this route again today, and the crux is certainly a bit harder than it was. It's at least a solid 5.11a now (it used to be a bit soft), and may be 5.11b. Also someone added a new first bolt to the route which is pretty pointless since it's too low to keep you from decking long before you get to the old first bolt.
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Location: CA : San Bernardino Mountains : Frustration Creek : Lower Tier : The Fourth Wise Man (5.8)
By: kennoyce When: Oct 9, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Fun route with fun moves. I only gave it one star because it is still quite dirty, but with some more traffic it will clean up and be a two or three star route.
For some fun, the route can also be done without using the left hand side of the corner at all, this bumps the rating to probably 5.9, but it makes the route feel much more sustained and once clean, would definately be three stars.
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Location: CA : San Bernardino Mountains : Frustration Creek : Lower Tier : Myrrh (5.11b)
By: kennoyce When: Sep 29, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route is like Three Kings on steroids. Same kind of balancy moves on a vertical slab with small sharp holds. I felt that the crux was right at the second bolt. The moves up to the second weren't too bad, I had to hang on the second to figure out the moves, hung on the third again because the rock was hard to read, but once I could see the holds, the moves past the third bolt weren't too bad either.
I felt that this would be a very hard route to onsight because the rock was so hard to r... more >>
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Location: CA : Riverside/Orange Counties : Riverside County : Big Rock Area : Main Slab : Left Flake (5.7)
By: kennoyce When: Sep 22, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Don't feel like you need just small gear for this one. I placed a .75, a 1 and a 2 camalot along with 2 nuts. I felt the protection was as easy or easier than right flake.
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Location: CA : San Bernardino Mountains : Frustration Creek : Lower Tier : Eco Challenge (5.11a)
By: kennoyce When: Jul 20, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Poison Oak is gone! someone ripped the whole thing out so there is none by this route anymore. Thanks whoever did it!
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Location: Hawaii : Oahu : Mokuleia Wall
By: kennoyce When: Jul 16, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I don't know all the info, but the closure listed below is indefinate and happened because of a single accident. Currently there is a petition to sign to help get this wall re-opened. Here is the link to the petition:
www.change.org/petitions/dlnr-re-open-access-to-climbing-at->>>
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Location: CA : San Bernardino Mountains : Legoland
By: kennoyce When: Jul 2, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I tried to head to the coven a week ago (23 June 2012) and the roads to get there (2N13 and 2N68) had closed, locked gates blocking them. The gate blocking 2N68 had a sign that said closed for winter conditions. Just curious if anyone knows when they are supposed to open these gates.
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Location: CA : San Bernardino Mountains : The Coven
By: kennoyce When: Jul 2, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I tried to head to the coven a week ago (23 June 2012) and the roads to get there (2N13 and 2N68) had closed, locked gates blocking them. The gate blocking 2N68 had a sign that said closed for winter conditions. Just curious if anyone knows when they are supposed to open these gates.
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Location: CA : San Bernardino Mountains : Holcomb Valley Pinnacles : Pinnacles South : Lost Orbit Rock : ... : Hubble (5.10b)
By: kennoyce When: Jun 23, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Not a great route. The bolt spacing is kind of weird, and the crux is very contrived and just not all that fun. I wouldn't waist my time on this one again.
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Location: UT : Saint George : Green Valley Gap : Shotgun Baptism (5.10+)
By: kennoyce When: May 7, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I know at one time there was a two bolt variation to the right of the route, but I think the first bolt was stolen from the variation, so now there is just the second lone bolt. I remember the variation was fun and a bit more technical and crimpy then the actual route.
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Location: CA : High Desert : New Jack City
By: kennoyce When: Mar 22, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Just camped there last weekend, still no camping fees. Who knows how soon they will start charging.
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Location: UT : Saint George : Coral Canyon Ridge
By: kennoyce When: Feb 14, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Routes about which I know nothing but the name and location:
Hump Like a Beetle: First route to the Right of the 3 Ugly Step Sisters.
10.4 Over and Out: 2nd route right of the 3 ugly step sisters.
Banished to the Desert: 4th route to the right of the 3 Ugly Step Sisters. Possibly 5.8.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Indian Cove : Group Campsites Road : Group Campsite 11
By: kennoyce When: Feb 9, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Yeah, these routes are currently behind group campsite 11, not 5-6. The name for this area should really be changed to Group Campsite 11.
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Location: CA : San Bernardino Mountains : Mormon Rocks : Mormon Slab : The Old Route (5.6 X)
By: kennoyce When: Feb 9, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route is super easy but I certainly wouldn't ever lead it. The pitons look okay, but the route is probably 180' long, and there is a bolt at 25 feet, a pin at 50 feet, then the third pin is at probably 120 feet, and the belay area wouldn't work well for a stone mountain belay so you would certainly deck if you fell off prior to clipping the third pin. But you might say that the climbing is so easy that you wouldn't fall off right, my issue is that the rock quality is so poor that I wouldn... more >>
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Hidden Valley Campground : The Blob : The Blob - West Face : Beginner's Two (5.4)
By: kennoyce When: Nov 21, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Just wanted to let everyone know that I climbed this on Saturday, and it is nowhere near 5.7 as was mentioned earlier. I would say that it was a bit harder than 5.2, but certainly not any harder than 5.4. I give it a 5.3 based on that. As far as pro goes, there is a quarter inch button-head just before the "crux" and about 10 feet above that there was a perfect pod for a #3 C4. All the climbing before the bolt was 3rd or 4th class, except for the short 5.2 stemming chimney out of the po... more >>
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Location: NH : The Captain : Photo
By: kennoyce When: Aug 10, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: I just love postage stamp sized photos that are turned sideways, don't you?
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Location: CA : The Needles / Kern River : Dome Rock : Tree Route (5.6)
By: kennoyce When: Aug 8, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Super fun route. First pitch follows an ant filled crack and is quite enjoyable as long as you don't pay attention to all of the ants that are everywhere. The second pitch is absoutely classic, I don't know the last time I had that much fun on something this easy! Make sure to bring a couple of number 3 camalots for the third pitch, the first 30 feet of the third pitch along with the belay atop the second pitch are perfect #3 size (I only brought one and had to use #2 camalots for... more >>
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Location: WI : Castle Rock South (Fishing ... : Rusty Ring Wall : Rusted Rings (5.10-) : Photo
By: kennoyce When: Aug 2, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Sure I'd clip it, I'd just make sure not to fall!
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