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Shelf Rd


Member Since: Apr 15, 2010
Last Visit: 1 hour ago
Contact Kenan


Point Rank: # 513
Total Points: 1,164
Last Year: 132
Last 30 Days: 21
23 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Kenan been climbing?










Contributions


All 1455 | Routes 42 | Areas 3 | Photos 135 | Page Improvments | Comments 24 | Posts 121 | Stars 590 | Ratings 540

Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Castle Rock : The Queen is Dead (5.11-) : Photo
By: Kenan When: Jul 16, 2014

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Comments: LOL - motorcycle is off route for sure.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Hallett Peak : Jackin' the Johnson (5.11b/c) : Photo
By: Kenan When: Sep 10, 2013

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Comments: YIKES.


Location: CO : South Platte : Elevenmile Canyon : Turret Dome : The Welcoming (5.4)
By: Kenan When: Sep 8, 2013

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Comments: Thanks, Tyson. The route descriptions and names here were based on info from the "Rock Climbing Colorado" Falcon guidebook by Stuart Green. I have brought up the discrepancies with Ben Schmitt, and it does sound like his new guidebook is likely to be correct on these details, as he reviewed the info for these routes with Bill Schmausser, part of the FA party. Updating route details accordingly.


Location: CO : South Platte : Elevenmile Canyon : Turret Dome : Junior Jules Doinks a Digit (5.10b)
By: Kenan When: Sep 8, 2013

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Comments: Thanks, Kenny. The route descriptions and names here were based on info from the "Rock Climbing Colorado" Falcon guidebook by Stuart Green. I have brought up the discrepancies with Ben Schmitt, and it does sound like his new guidebook is likely to be correct on these details, as he reviewed the info for these routes with Bill Schmausser, part of the FA party. Updating route details accordingly.


Location: CO : South Platte : Elevenmile Canyon : Turret Dome : Escorndido (5.10a)
By: Kenan When: Sep 8, 2013

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Comments: Thanks, Kenny. The route descriptions and names here were based on info from the "Rock Climbing Colorado" Falcon guidebook by Stuart Green. I have brought up the discrepancies with Ben Schmitt, and it does sound like his new guidebook is likely to be correct on these details, as he reviewed the info for these routes with Bill Schmausser, part of the FA party. Updating route details accordingly.


Location: WY : Ten Sleep Canyon : French Cattle Ranch : Whiny Baby Wall : The Cloud Peak Vista Traver... (5.11a)
By: Kenan When: Sep 3, 2013

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Comments: This is one of those routes that makes you wonder how such a perfect sequence of holds for a human being could occur naturally. Steep rock, big pockets, fun powerful moves... CLASSIC!


Location: WY : Ten Sleep Canyon : Metropolis : Jesus Christ Super Jew (5.11b)
By: Kenan When: Sep 3, 2013

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Comments: This route is amazing! A 50-foot hand crack followed by a 50-foot steep pocketed dihedral?! So classic! It has a very adventurous feel, and is quite uncharacteristic of Ten Sleep with the pure crack start.

I'd have to agree that the crack is probably 5.9, despite it feeling much harder to people without crack climbing experience.

The moves and position up high are really stellar. To echo the sentiment: YOU MUST DO THE UPPER PART!!


Location: WY : Wild Iris : OK Corral : Right Side : Rooster Cogburn (5.12a)
By: Kenan When: Jul 8, 2013

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Comments: This route is really nice. Kudos to Cody Harris on putting this up. Great movement in a beautiful position up this arete. One of my favorite climbs at Wild Iris.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Peanuts Walls : Lower Peanuts : Peanuts (5.9+)
By: Kenan When: Jun 28, 2013

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Comments: I was surprised to see that this doesn't have more stars. The position is great, the movement interesting and varied, and it's one of those improbable lines that looks harder than it is. Holds appear right where you need them. Now one of my favorite 9s at Eldo. The scrambly start does detract a bit, but the upper part is so clean and aesthetic, I still give it 4 stars.

As far as difficulty, no way is this any harder than 5.9. Other Eldo 9+s are WAY harder (such as Hair City, P1 of Rincon, ... more >>


Location: NM : Taos Area : Wild and Scenic : Photo
By: Kenan When: May 14, 2013

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Comments: Is that Chuck Norris? ;-)


Location: CO : San Luis Valley : Penitente Canyon : Penitente - Inner Canyon : Heaven Can Wait (5.10)
By: Kenan When: Nov 27, 2012

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Comments: I agree with a previous comment that something must have broken off if this was once a 5.10 start. The start is quite bouldery and requires technical stemming out on thin pebbles to reach the left hand hold. Then pulling over the bulge and getting the right-hand gaston is also no gimme. Solid 5.11 start. The 10c to the left (Children of a Lesser Grade) is much easier.

Also note this is definitely an R-rated climb if you lead it on gear. There are maybe 2-3 placements in the middle of the c... more >>


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Cactus Rose Cliff : Mark Finds Bob Bolting (5.10d)
By: Kenan When: Oct 24, 2012

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Comments: The last moves to the chains (err... I mean oval biners?!) are definitely thin and spicy.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Gallery : Menses Prow : The Big Chill (5.10c)
By: Kenan When: Oct 10, 2012

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Comments: WARNING: As of Oct. 7 2012, the anchors are in need of replacement. The left-hand hanger bolt in particular is moving around quite a bit.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Gallery : Menses Prow : The Big Chill (5.10c)
By: Kenan When: Oct 10, 2012

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Comments: I've climbed this a couple of times, and while it's a good route, I have to agree with the bolt line being too far left. The crack is clearly the natural line here, and the bolt line is far enough left to make it feel awkward staying in the crack. I felt constantly pulled out of the crack towards face moves farther left in order to move back to the bolt line. Perhaps the FA party was trying to offer 2 variations with a single bolt line? Or perhaps as Amato said they were trying to avoid cont... more >>


Location: WY : Fremont Canyon : The Bridge : B-25 (5.9)
By: Kenan When: Sep 5, 2012

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Comments: FYI, this is an old school 5.9 - a flaring and somewhat polished crack with cruxy and committing moves right off the deck above a ledge. You'll want to be a solid 5.9 leader with good crack skills to tackle this one.


Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : The Coliseum
By: Kenan When: Aug 6, 2012

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Comments: Note that there is now a nicely cairned trail that skirts the right hand side of the talus field as you're going up to Coliseum. This seems much more solid than tackling the talus field head on.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Wind Tower : Wind Tower - SW Face : ... : Photo
By: Kenan When: Jun 25, 2012

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Comments: HAHAHA, this is priceless!


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Gallery : Far Side : Elvis is Everywhere (5.10b)
By: Kenan When: Sep 26, 2011

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Comments: Note that this route has a standard 2-bolt anchor now (versus the single bolt that Fred Knapp mentions in 'Shelf Road Rock').

Also note that the start to this climb is somewhat awkward and insecure - from the top of an angled boulder. Seems to me like this route could have been started from the ground on the more Easterly aspect of the rock instead of atop the awkward boulder, but hey, that's just me.


Location: UT : Maple Canyon : Maple Canyon Road : Thessalonian Buttress : The Grecian Highway (5.9)
By: Kenan When: Sep 26, 2011

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Comments: Climbed this last week and absolutely loved the 3rd pitch. The first 2 pitches are extremely dirty. Maybe it just needs more traffic. P3 is definitely worth the time & effort. The heady crux roof up high is awesome.


Location: UT : Maple Canyon : Maple Canyon Road : Maple Corridor : Jack in the Wood (5.10b)
By: Kenan When: Sep 26, 2011

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Comments: +1 on the soft 10b. 10a at most


Location: UT : Maple Canyon : Right Fork : Oxygen Wall : Key Lime Sky (5.8)
By: Kenan When: Sep 26, 2011

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Comments: This is a really long route and has great exposure and views. I thought it felt more like 5.9. BEWARE LOOSE COBBLES on this one. At one point my foothold blew out instantaneously and I took a 25-footer. YIKES. If it weren't for the dirt and loose cobbles I would have given this 3 or 4 stars. Perhaps it will clean up a bit with some traffic. Also note that I was *just* able to lower to the ground with a 60. Just a foot or so of slack to spare on each side.


Location: UT : Maple Canyon : Middle Fork : The Matrix : A Place Where I Can Hide (5.8)
By: Kenan When: Sep 26, 2011

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Comments: I recommend avoiding this route. I climbed it last week, pulled off a grapefruit-sized cobble in the runout section high up, and barely hung on to avoid a huge whipper. This thing is DIRTY and has lots of loose cobbles. Beware!


Location: CO : South Platte : Devil's Head : The Arena : West Side Wall : Ceres (5.10b)
By: Kenan When: Sep 11, 2011

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Comments: I can't bring myself to give this one more than 1 star. The route felt quite inconsistent with a dirty slab start (never did figure out the mantle), followed by a slightly more featured section, ultimately followed by a polished, right-angling, overhanging crux that felt very sandbagged for the grade. It just didn't seem to flow well for us. There is great scenery from the West Side of The Arena, but be prepared for dirty rock and stiff grades on the left side of this wall.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Indian Peaks : Apache Peak : Black Knight (5.5 R)
By: Kenan When: Aug 29, 2010

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Comments: I wanted to emphasize the presence of loose rock on this one. We tried the documented route (climber's left) and also the gash in the middle of the formation and decided to back off after I kicked off a giant block. Be careful - this thing is a chosspile!