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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Fin Wall : Hot Fun Sunday (5.11)
By: Ken McVicker When: Mar 31, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: The sign is still there. Great route that gets harder up to the crux. Definitely need some small cams be prepared for finger locks and no feet. Once I got past the crux and finger locks I never though a ring lock would feel so good.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : Third Flatiron : East Face (Standard) (5.4)
By: Ken McVicker When: Oct 26, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Climbed this last night in the Moonlight - Full moon. For the end of October, it was a great warm night - breaze blowing up from the city. We were at the top at 1:00 am. A headlamp is useful for placing gear in those dark cracks, but turn it off for climbing as it kills night vision and depth perception. Thanks to the guys who let us join for the rap off, it definitely saved time. What a blast!
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Location: CO : Golden : Lookout Mountain Crag : 5.10 Crack aka "Thin Finger... (5.10c C1)
By: Ken McVicker When: Sep 17, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: I would agree that this is 5.10, but I think a low letter rating. This was a really fun climb with ring lock, finger stacking and lots of small edges, even a Gaston or two.
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Location: CO : Keystone a.k.a. Montezuma : Swan Mountain Road
By: Ken McVicker When: Jul 27, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Can the description of the Location be changed, Please?? The parking for this is really at the entrance to the Prospector campground not the Lowry Campground. After looking for the Crag for an hour by the Lowry campground, I talked to a ranger and he said that all the guide books are wrong on the location as is the description here of the location. As stated above the parking is by the gate for the Prospector campground.
The description confused me a bit as the Lowry campground is on the lef... more >>
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Little Eiger : Footloose (5.10a)
By: Ken McVicker When: Jul 17, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Anyone know the name of the route to the left of this route. I climbed it but can't find the name. I'll consult a guide book next chance I get.
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Little Eiger : First Impressions (5.9)
By: Ken McVicker When: Jul 17, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Good climb. Starts out with face moves and then you can undercling and side pull or layback up the dihedral. I exited the dihedral to the right. Take your time and you'll find it. There is a small not so obvious crimp for your right hand to get you out. Just find any crystal or nub for the left hand and balance your way out. Smear the feet. Two ballancy moves and you'll be out. The start feels like 5.7 but gets progressively harder. Great warmup route.
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Location: CO : Golden : North Table Mountain/Golden... : MBA Buttress
By: Ken McVicker When: May 18, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Saw a nice size rattle snake (~3 ft ) on May 10, 2007 up between Industrial Buttress and MBA Wall. He was right on the trail and move off. On the way back around, he was curled up under a rock about 1-2 feet off the trail. Be observant and watch our for your unleashed dogs.
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Location: CO : Golden : North Table Mountain/Golden...
By: Ken McVicker When: May 18, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Saw a nice size rattle snake (~3 ft) on May 10, 2007 up between Industrial Buttress and MBA Wall. He was right on the trail and moved off. On the way back around, he was curled up under a rock about 1-2 feet off the trail. Be observant and watch our for your unleashed dogs.
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Location: CO : South Platte : Cathedral Spires Area : Cynical Pinnacle : Center Route (5.9+)
By: Ken McVicker When: Aug 25, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great route. A heck of an approach. Do your stairmaster to train!! Anyone else try the diagonal crack that starts about 50 ft to the right and joins the main line about 50 ft up? It was pretty good start until the dirt and the Bush you have to climb through. This adds about 20-30 feet to the first pitch.
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Location: CO : Denver South : Castlewood Canyon : Grocery Store Wall : Petrified Turd (5.8)
By: Ken McVicker When: Aug 14, 2003 | view comment >> |
Comments: We didn't climb this one and it is literally filled with piles of unpleasant crap. If you like wallering in crap go for it. But I'd avoid this one like the plague as you will probably get it if you climb this route.
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Location: CO : Denver South : Castlewood Canyon : Grocery Store Wall : Peaches and Scream (5.6)
By: Ken McVicker When: Aug 14, 2003 | view comment >> |
Comments: Unless you have tri-cams I wouldn't lead this either. I didn't have any so it was a bit sketchy near the top. Walk around to the top and set up a top rope is best. The last few moves to the canyon rim seemed a little harder than 5.6 for the direct route.
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Location: CO : Denver South : Castlewood Canyon : Grocery Store Wall : Hot Fudge (5.8)
By: Ken McVicker When: Aug 14, 2003 | view comment >> |
Comments: My friend aided this route ( just to practice aiding). You can reach the undercling from the ground on the left side of the undercling. As a lead route I think it is fine but you have to start from the left and do the traverse. Plenty of geat placement for cams(mid to small size). I climbed it on top tope from the left side of the undercling. It was a little scary at first knowing that you'd deck and hit a few boulders if you came off for the first 10 feet of the undercling or so. The rock... more >>
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Location: CO : Denver South : Castlewood Canyon : Grocery Store Wall : Donut Hole (5.11a)
By: Ken McVicker When: Aug 14, 2003 | view comment >> |
Comments: The description of this says to traverse right to hot fudge but I traversed left to get to hot fudge as it is the under cling/corner to the left in the picture ( and real life). This is a good route. It can only be protected from top roping. One or two tricky moves around the donut. It is a little crimpy so a good warm up is in order. Warmup on Hot Fudge(5.8 to the left) or Peaches and Scream(5.6 to the right).
Just a note: we went on Wednesday in the middle of the day and encountered abou... more >>
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Location: CO : Denver South : Castlewood Canyon : Wendell Spire : Phalloid Void (5.10b/c)
By: Ken McVicker When: Mar 15, 2003 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great crux near the top. It's easy down low but get harder as you go.
Great sunny day. Lots of observer from the hiking trail below. 20+ people watched me flail. Sorry no sunbathing women.
This rating is right on.
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Location: CO : Denver South : Castlewood Canyon : Wendell Spire : Bag of Tricks aka Flake (5.9+)
By: Ken McVicker When: Mar 15, 2003 | view comment >> |
Comments: I agree the crux is harder. 5.10a is more correct. I spent 4-5 minutes trying different sequences before I convinced myself to commit. It was real sketchy while on lead ove the crux. The good thing is that you have a bolt you can clip above you before heading over the crux. Once past the crux it's an easy stem to the top.
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Location: CO : Denver South : Castlewood Canyon : Grocery Store Wall : Licorice Stick (5.9)
By: Ken McVicker When: Sep 18, 2002 | view comment >> |
Comments: Good route but easy. Nice warmup, if a 9 definitely a -. Using the crack as a layback definitely makes it easier. On my second climb of this doing a layback allowed my to fly up this.
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