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Location: CA : Central Coast : San Luis Obispo : Bishop Peak : Cracked Wall : Dirty Rat's Crack (5.4)
By: Ken Klis When: Feb 16, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Original Name: Dead Rat's Crack (funny how names morph over time...)
fa circa 1971 led by Richard Pfost, followed by 2 others
He remembers pulling a dead rat out of the crack and throwing it down to the base, hence the name.
This route goes above the Civilized Evil anchors, over some bulges with hand jams, and to the top of the cliff where you can set up anchors, but use caution on some loose junk around (not often done but a very goood route, 5.7).
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Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : Cielo Crack Crag (a.k.a. "P... : Cielo Crack (a.k.a. "Pakalo... (5.11a)
By: Ken Klis When: Jul 19, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: SB locals took me there back in 1987 and were calling it Pakalolo.
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Location: CA : San Diego County : Mount Woodson : Hear My Train A Comin' Boul... : Hear My Train A Comin' (5.11c/d C1)
By: Ken Klis When: Sep 17, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: My sometimes unreliable memory recalls Rick Piggot telling me that it had already been freed before Bachar's ascent. Locals had been bear-hugging up an oak tree and reaching out into the good finger locks past the crux.
Then Bachar showed up and onsight flashed it from the ground, and I think Rick told me it was 3rd classed too.
It sent all the locals running over there to try the additional moves.
The convenient tree limb is long gone now. And all this was in the 70's, before I was hanging ... more >>
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Location: CA : Central Coast : Access Issue at Cerro Romua...
By: Ken Klis When: Mar 23, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: This can be a huge task, or a rather simple formality. What needs to be discovered is what prior environmental review documents exist and if they are accessible ((archaeological study, biological studies (sensitive species of flora / fauna), historical sites, maps and boundaries)).
If a prior environmental determination has been made (which legally is probably required) for military activities or other use at this specific site, then adopting its format, maps and studies would be rather simple.... more >>
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Location: CA : Central Coast : San Luis Obispo : Bishop Peak : Cracked Wall : Rat Race (5.11+ R)
By: Ken Klis When: Feb 21, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Climb past 2 bolts just right of Civilized Evil, at about .11a, then relatively easy ground to 3rd bolt, continue up and right, approaching the 4th bolt (right of Dirty Rat's Crack)with medium cams protecting moderate climbing, clip 4th bolt either from left or straight up (being more sustained)on the overhanging roof. Dynamic moves over roof, clip 5th and last bolt from stance above lip and then thin pro on the .10a thin crack to the anchors. Very loose flakes above anchors, keep out.
Not an R... more >>
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Location: CA : Central Coast : San Luis Obispo : Bishop Peak : Cracked Wall : Crankin' (5.11d)
By: Ken Klis When: Feb 21, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: The complete independent line climbs the right side of first 3 bolts (to the ledge). Climbing left of the bolts is a few letters easier.
A knee lock under the roof really takes the edge off the final crux.
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Location: CA : Central Coast : San Luis Obispo : Cabrillo Peak : Rock Land : Poltergeist (5.7)
By: Ken Klis When: Apr 20, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: Hold off John. Your track record clearly indicates your inability to wisely add bolts where they did not exist prior.
Examples:
- the 8 or so bolts you recently removed, that you had also recently added, to the right side of the p-wall.
- Shadow Wall belays, 3 or 4 exist now above Thin Man, very close to each other.
Friendly advice, slow down and think before continuing the bolting crusade man, it ain't working.
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Location: CA : Central Coast : San Luis Obispo : Bishop Peak : Shadow Rock : THC (5.10a)
By: Ken Klis When: Mar 17, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: I never inhaled. Thanks for spelling my last name correctly.
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Location: CA : Central Coast : San Luis Obispo : Bishop Peak : Cracked Wall : Crank You, Thank You (5.11b)
By: Ken Klis When: Oct 17, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: Gulash added the 3rd bolt in about 1990 or so (I saw this). The first bolt is where Tim S. placed it, off the ground.
I did pull out the split-shaft bolts and upgraded them.
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Location: CA : Central Coast : San Luis Obispo : Hollister Peak
By: Ken Klis When: Feb 2, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: Yos Crack, 5.10c ***** (new second pitch too)Shemp, 5.11d ****OW, 5.10d ***Smear Some More, 5.11a *** Patigucci Bros., 5.10d ***Left of Patigucci (name?), 5.10c ****Cave Crack, 5.12 ***Dream, 5.10b **Upper Corner, 5.10 (3 pitches) **** 5.10cLower Corner, 5.10 (2 pitches) 5.10a ***The Ear, 5.8 *** Ski's Route, 2 pitches, 5.10 ***Summit Fist Crack, 5.10+ **
Most all these routes are high quality cracks. There's more than this too, it's a shame there is no access....
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Location: CA : Central Coast : San Luis Obispo : Bishop Peak : Cracked Wall : Only Way To Fly (5.10c)
By: Ken Klis When: Jan 22, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: Be careful of the 2 biners left at the belay, they are aluminum and showing signs of wear.
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