Comments: I agree with Chris -- 2nd pitch is easy 11 and using the undercling/sidepull follows the line naturally. 2nd pitch is one of the best jug hauls in Boulder Canyon at the grade. The fun factor is very high on this one. Probably the best "easy" route at Easter Rock.
Comments: 2.5 stars. The boulder problem start is much harder than anything on the 2nd pitch, definitely harder than 5.11. 2nd pitch is quite good, but expect rope drag if using standard length draws. There is one bolt that is too far to the left around a sharp arete that really adds to the rope drag.
Comments: Greg Hand wrote: "We have left the 2-bolt anchor at the half way point for climbers with shorter ropes."
The midway anchor is no longer there. One of the bolts has been cut and the other bolt has only a hangar on it now. One can traverse to No Direction Home if you have a short rope, but going to the top provides very fun climbing.
Comments: We went up to do Vishnu and noticed this new route. This route is a junior version of routes on the Red Wall at Devil's Head. Excellent incut holds on a slightly overhanging wall. Great position. The top still has lichen and the holds are a little grainy, but it doesn't distract from this fine route. Excellent find guys. The knife-edge arete to the left looks wild (Pranja?), but there are some scary-looking flakes on it. Anybody done it?
This route and Vishnu are located on an exposed pe... more >>
Comments: This was my first trip to Devil's Head, so perhaps there are gems like this all over this area, but this is possibly the best granite sport climb I have done. Richard's description is right on.
Comments: This route is very good. The climbing from the 2nd to 6th bolt is very continuous with a variety of moves -- good holds with bad feet followed by bad holds with good feet. The rock is surprisingly clean -- as clean as anything at Sherwood Forest a whole 2 min away. I'd give it 2.5 stars. Getting the feet situated over the roof is the crux. Bob's rating is certainly in the ballpark.
Comments: Done as a single pitch, this will become the best mid-range 5.11 sport route in Boulder Canyon once the lichen on the upper headwall cleans up a bit. Great position and thought-provoking movement. Out of curiosity, I used the advanced search features of MP to list all the 5.11 sport routes in Boulder Canyon sorted by stars. Nothing on that list is better than this climb. Animal Magnetism probably has a better finale, but over the entire length this route delivers better moves.
Comments: Made the not-so-clever decision of top-roping this route from the anchors on Romancing the Stone, located high on the arete formed by the N and W faces. It seemed like it would be the easiest way to top rope this and the other two routes on the N face by simply moving a directional runner each time (the RTS anchors are directly above Teenage Terrorists). But there is a lot of loose, funky rock between the top of these north face routes and the anchors on RTS. Our rope dislodged a good-sized bl... more >>
Comments: Ken, at least with a ring (as compared to the quick link, cold shut, or piece of chain), the ring can be constantly rotated so the rope abrasion is distributed about the ring's circumference -- giving it durability many times longer than the link, which forces the rope abrasion to a confined area. Anyway, good suggestion about how to fix the anchor when the ring does get worn.
Comments: Since most people will climb this route from the same ledge system that Future of Life and Huck Finn start from, bring a finger-sized cam to backup Lichen's first bolt for a belay. The real climbing is less than 20 ft long, but worth doing if you are up there anyway.
Comments: Fun moves on a slab with some Tuolumne-like knobs. There is a tree that leans out over the creek that makes for an exposed backrest while belaying. Note that there is a hard move above a potential ankle-tweaking 1 ft wide ledge near the top of the route -- the only downside to this otherwise fine route.
Comments: A one-pitch sport route that feels like an alpine adventure route. This is a good time of year to climb this because it starts right out of the creek and the water level is very low now. There is a 5 ft waterfall a few feet away adding to the atmosphere. Still lots of lichen on the upper slab. If you are looking for something a little different than the average Boulder Canyon route, this is it. 3 stars for the adventure factor, although the climbing itself is only 2 stars.
Comments: 65 ft of continuous moves on nicely featured rock -- this is destined to become a favorite at the grade on the Boulder Canyon sport climbing circuit. I'd say it is about as much fun as Hound Dog on Bell Buttress, but it's slightly less than vertical so working the hard sequences before committing makes it a bit easier than Hound Dog.
Comments: Bruno and Ron, thanks for the work in putting up this route, (and the tyrolean, and the trail work, etc.!) The crux moves are cool -- those incut edges are small, but very positive. I did a high-step right to get off the headwall -- was that your intention?
I did the route as a single pitch, combining it with the first pitch of Toe the Line. Just a suggestion, why not put an anchor after the headwall so the route (Toe the Line 1st pitch + the crux 11 moves) could be done as a single pitch ... more >>
Comments: I was just looking at the spectacular beta photo of the Pocketknife, which lies to the climber's left of the SW Corner. I think that the big dihedral with the wide crack on the right edge of the photo is part of the SW Corner -- if my memory is right, this is the pitch after the crux pitch. What a great angle -- too bad there were no climbers on it when the photo was taken.
Roy Leggett and Trey North on the third pitch of The Pocketknife. The Pocketknife flake is where the belayer is sitting. Submitted By: Roy Leggett on Jul 1, 2005
Comments: I have climbed this route many times doing the beached whale mantle. Today I was short on gas so instead of the mantle I continued the hand traverse to the right where I was able to stand up casually at the right end of the ledge. Highly recommended.
Comments: We had a long day on this one, underestimating how much the route finding would contribute to the total time. Great position and cool views of climbers on the upper half of the Petit. Appreciated the comment from Charles about 1st pitch being out of character with the rest of the route.
Re: the Rossiter topo/description, most of the pitches are in the 100-120 ft range rather than 150 ft. Pitch 1 shows to diagnol left to the belay from the dihedral. Climbing is sketchy this way, better to cl... more >>
Comments: I think the argument that there is a "blind" nut placement that makes this route safe is one of the most illogical comment I've read on this site. Rincon is a trad climb, which means the rating is based on an on-sight ascent without any specific beta about moves or moves to place gear. So how is the on-sight climber suppose to know where the blind nut placement is? By reading site? Yea, the center of the universe right here. So place your blind nut, but don't use this excuse to justify a cr... more >>
Comments: Great route. Angle of Repose is an excellent descriptor for the moves on the 2nd pitch. Not many hand-holds on that pitch -- when you get a 1/4 inch edge it feels like a jug.
We did a (new?) bolted route as the approach pitch that starts at the big pine tree to the right of the 5.9 slot. Climb past 4 bolts and then traverse up and left towards the base of Angle of Repose. You can also sling a horn midway so that you can do the approach pitch with no gear.
Comments: My partner led the 5.11 right-facing dihedral on Sat, exiting the dihedral by using some holds to the right, and then climbing directly out of the dihedral onto the slab above. When I followed, I exited the dihedral at the crux around the arete to the left on to lower angle rock. A good #3 camalot placement protects this move. My partner gave me a hard time for taking the easy way out so I lowered back down and did it his way. I would say that his way was 11a and my way was 10b.Perhap... more >>
Comments: The NW Corner of the Bastille has three variations in Rossiter's guide to do the crux headwall varying from 11b to 10c -- the left and center variations are just a couple feet apart. No one has a problem with that. Hopefully both variations for Morpheus will show up in the topo of the new guidebook.