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Member Since: Mar 12, 2009
Last Visit: Sep 7, 2010
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Point Rank: # 10,134
Total Points: 21
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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All 22 | Routes | Areas | Photos | Page Improvements | Comments 21 | Posts 1 | Stars | Ratings

Contributed Comments

 

Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin...
By: Ken Isaacson When: Sep 7, 2010

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Comments: Say what you will. I trust the governor. Elected officials never lie. I'll just take my Bosch and my swag, and go where I can be appreciated.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin...
By: Ken Isaacson When: Sep 6, 2010

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Comments: Mt. Lemmon can't be a decent place to climb when there are headless bodies being found in the Arizona desert.


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Queen Creek Canyon : Atlantis : Unknown (5.6)
By: Ken Isaacson When: May 27, 2010

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Comments: This route might be Mickey Mouse.


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Queen Creek Canyon : Atlantis : Mickey Mouse (5.7)
By: Ken Isaacson When: May 25, 2010

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Comments: 5.6. Use this as a warm-up.


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Queen Creek Canyon : Atlantis : Mondo Freako (5.7)
By: Ken Isaacson When: May 25, 2010

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Comments: Yes, 5.6. Use as a warm-up.


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Queen Creek Canyon : Atlantis : Brush Your Teeth Before You... (5.9 PG13)
By: Ken Isaacson When: May 25, 2010

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Comments: My son led this yesterday and I followed on TR. There is a hollow sounding flake about a little more than 2/3 of the way up. I did pull up on the flake and it held. The crack to the right of the bulge is solid. There are plenty of good foot placements, pockets and edges all the way up. I think this route is easier than 5.9, although placing a cam in the crack next to the bulge looked awkward.


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Phoenix Areas : McDowell Mountains : Gardeners Wall : Renaissance Direct (5.7 R)
By: Ken Isaacson When: Mar 30, 2010

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Comments: This route had to have gone up a long time ago. I do not think it would get a 5.7 today. The face on the first pitch is pretty featureless. There isn't much for hands or feet. Like many routes at Pinnacle, you have to rely on sticky rubber and use hands to claw up on the granite crystals. The crystals at best make some very small edges that can be clawed to get you up. Gym climbers and sport climbers who are doing 1990's routes, beware. This is 70's vintage stuff.

I led pitch 1 yesterday, and w... more >>


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Phoenix Areas : Little Granite Mountain
By: Ken Isaacson When: Mar 22, 2010

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Comments: The AZ State Land Department is at 1616 W. Adams. It's a little hard to find because of the way streets snake around the capital. If you enter from the doors at the south entrance, turn right and walk about fifteen feet. There are two cashiers windows on the left facing each other. Turn in the paperwork at the east window. Someone will get the permit. Then pay at the west window. Cash or check only! There are plans to set up online permitting but that will not happen until the state is in better... more >>


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Queen Creek Canyon : The Mine Area : Lower Looner Land : Ride the Wild (5.9)
By: Ken Isaacson When: Jan 18, 2010

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Comments: On 1-16-2009 my son red pointed and I seconded. This is a nice climb. One of the bolts is a little difficult to find as it is on the right side of the arete and the rest are on the left side. The bolts look fairly new and are in good shape. There are short chains at the top. I think the 5.9 rating is reasonable.


Location: CA : Los Angeles Basin : Stoney Point : Beethoven's Wall
By: Ken Isaacson When: Nov 30, 2009

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Comments: My sons and I climbed the 10.a and 10.c on 11/27/09. I'm 63 and my sons are 32 and 28. Seems to me that 5.9 and 5.8 are more accurate ratings.


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Flagstaff Crags : Mt. Elden : West Elden : ... : John's Jugs (5.12)
By: Ken Isaacson When: May 1, 2009

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Comments: Guilty! I just don't seem to be getting it right.


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Flagstaff Crags : Mt. Elden : West Elden : ... : John's Jugs (5.12)
By: Ken Isaacson When: Apr 30, 2009

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Comments: I climbed with John a few times when I lived in Flagstaff. I think I saw John Gault was a guide in a Google search or in Mountain Gazette.

I'm editing my comment. I just did a google search and found a few John Gault references, but none about a guide in Colorado. It was in Mountain Gazette or I am mistaken.

I noticed a comment from JBaker in Tucson. Mr. Baker might remember my son Nathaniel when he was a student at U of A about five years ago. He climbed at Lemmon and attended a few of your s... more >>


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Flagstaff Crags : Mt. Elden : West Elden : ... : John's Jugs (5.12)
By: Ken Isaacson When: Apr 29, 2009

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Comments: John Gault lived in Flagstaff in the late seventies and early eighties with his two dogs. He had a very high ape index,large biceps,and was prematurely bald.

If the climb is rated as a 5.12 in the early eighties, figure it is a 5.13 today. During this period climbers in Flagstaff and probably throughout Arizona, thought all the hard climbing was in Yosemite and gave climbs lower ratings than they deserved.

I think Gault is a climbing guide in Colorado now.


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Queen Creek Canyon
By: Ken Isaacson When: Apr 21, 2009

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Comments: I am deeply sorry for my over estimation of the hole in the ground. Perhaps it will be as attractive as the ASARCO photo above, a sort of eco-friendly hole.


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Tam O'Shanter
By: Ken Isaacson When: Apr 20, 2009

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Comments: Apparently Resolution Copper is involved in the development of this climbing area, as they plan to turn Oak Flats into a crater. I have not seen Tamo, but as I understand it, I can drive further from Phoenix to get there after I have purchased a gas guzzling four wheel drive to get me across private land. This must be Resolution's effort to go green. It is very considerate of them to make this financial sacrifice as they plan to mine billions of dollars of copper out of the Queen Creek Canyon ar... more >>


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Queen Creek Canyon
By: Ken Isaacson When: Apr 20, 2009

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Comments: This is another of Arizona's great climbing areas. It was once home to the Phoenix Bouldering Competition, attended by thousands of climbers. However, in a questionable land swap, it was taken over by Resolution Copper. As soon as possible Resolution will turn this ecologically protected area into a hole in the ground about a mile across and perhaps a half a mile deep.


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Phoenix Areas : Pinnacle Peak
By: Ken Isaacson When: Apr 20, 2009

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Comments: Pinnacle Peak is a fantastic climbing area for visitors. It overlooks some of the most luxurious homes in Arizona(bring your binoculars) and there are views of Troon and the Lower East Wall which were once open to climbers.


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Phoenix Areas : Lookout Mountain
By: Ken Isaacson When: Apr 1, 2009

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Comments: Someone has added two bolts about three feet off the ground immediately to the right of Devil in Disguise. The bolts have no hangers and look like they are designed for removable holds. Why put in the bolts? Why not carry a step ladder and leave the rock alone. If these bolts are for holds, the holds eliminate the 5.10 start. What is this climber(?) thinking about?


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Phoenix Areas : Lookout Mountain
By: Ken Isaacson When: Mar 12, 2009

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Comments: I do not see Devil In Disguise listed here. My son and I climbed it on 3-10-09. It is immediately left of Totally Trad and is a 5.10. The crux is the first few moves depending on climber height (I'm 5'5"). It requires a pull up, raising feet under the roof to take weight off hands and arms, repositioning hands up, and repositioning feet to a stable stance. Use a spotter because the first bolt is useless. It is the devil in disguise.


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Phoenix Areas : Pinnacle Peak : Y-Crack Boulder : Corona Club (5.8+)
By: Ken Isaacson When: Mar 12, 2009

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Comments: Please see my Turtle Piss comments. The same applies; however, this route has fewer hand and foot holds. Often all you can find for hand or foot is a ripple in the rock and you sort of balance up the climb as something yellow trickles down your leg. It is the hardest 5.8 I have ever climbed.


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Phoenix Areas : Pinnacle Peak : Y-Crack Boulder : Turtle Piss (5.6)
By: Ken Isaacson When: Mar 12, 2009

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Comments: My son and I led Turtle yesterday. There are few hand and foot holds making this the hardest 5.6 we have ever climbed. The rock is very granular and it bites into climbing rubber but that means climbing on friction and slicing up finger tips, a psychological strain.


Contributed Forum Posts

Topic Title Forum Author Date
re: Adding Bolts to an established routeGeneral ClimbingKen IsaacsonJul 12, 2010