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Member Since: Apr 7, 2003
Last Visit: 2 days ago
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Point Rank: # 1,382
Total Points: 451
Last Year: 0
Last 30 Days: 0
6 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 184 | Routes 19 | Areas 2 | Photos 38 | Page Improvements | Comments 41 | Posts 9 | Stars 47 | Ratings 28
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Highlands aka Highlande... : Get a Job (5.11a)
By: Ken Heiser When: Jan 3, 2006

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Comments: I think that if the face crux above the roof on the route to the right (Job Review) is 11a, this has to be at least a letter grade harder. I can reach the holds and still find this to be really thin, reachy, very strenuous.....plus awkward. The upper part of the climb above the crux is very fun fairly sustained 9/10. Happy New Year


Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon of the Gunniso... : North Rim Routes : Aretes : Lauren's Arete (5.9 R)
By: Ken Heiser When: Sep 6, 2005

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Comments: I did this route with my friend Niel 9/3/05. I decided to make a post here to perhaps understand better where the route goes, rating etc..

So we hike down the SOB gully all the way to the base of the gully to the toe of the buttress that forms Lauren's arete. As we we were roping up at the very toe the climbing ranger came along (I feel like a dope for not know his name). He suggested that we were not at the start of the route and we follow him to the start. He showed us a gully/ledge that l... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Lower Dream Canyon : Wall of Winter Warmth : Direct Cop Out (5.10b)
By: Ken Heiser When: Mar 18, 2005

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Comments: This is a fun route.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Lower Dream Canyon : Wall of Winter Warmth : Direct Cop Out (5.10b)
By: Ken Heiser When: Mar 15, 2005

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Comments: I liked the crux on this, it has cool moves and has an old school feel,


Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : December Wall : Climb of the Anonymous Cowa... (5.11-)
By: Ken Heiser When: Mar 1, 2005

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Comments: I led a variation of this route last weekend that was quite fun: I did this because I had not climbed the flake that leads from partway up Ranklands directly to the LAJ belay. So the pitch. I started on Ranklands and climbed that up to the roof.I exited right from the roof and followed the cracks up to the flake.I then followed the flake out to the right and then up to the belay on LAJ p1.From there I did the crux off the ledge and clipped the first 3 bolts on LAJ p2.From there I clipped the ... more >>


Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : December Wall : Telegraph Road (5.11b)
By: Ken Heiser When: Feb 21, 2005

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Comments: Finally had a chance to get on this route.I had a question about p2 though. I can lead the moves off the belay on p2 of LAJ nicely. However, the moves off the belay on p2 of this route are rated the same but neither myself or the 3 strong climbers I was with could lead this cleanly. Have some holds broken off or is this substantial harder than it is rated or were we just having a bad day?Beta?

Thanks,

Ken H.


Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : December Wall : Life After James (5.11b)
By: Ken Heiser When: Feb 15, 2005

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Comments: Matt,

"Long December"? Would you care to identify this route and give some info on it?I do not see it posted here and I cannot find it in any guidebook.

Thanks for your help,

Ken H.


Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : December Wall : Life After James (5.11b)
By: Ken Heiser When: Feb 14, 2005

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Comments: I wanted to thank Matt and Paul for their efforts and good job developing a really fine route. I climbed this using only the bolts for protection and disagree with the comments people made saying that this route had a trad feel to it.I thought this felt like a well bolted sport route and did not encounter any runouts that caused me concern.I also did not encounter any difficulty clipping the bolts.I thought pitch 1 was excellent with a wide variety of cruxes. I did not climb one side or the oth... more >>


Location: UT : Saint George : Snow Canyon State Park : Island In The Sky : Circus Wall : Illegal Alien (5.10b)
By: Ken Heiser When: Feb 8, 2005

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Comments: I really enjoyed this one. Super excellent sustained climbing on beutiful rock.


Location: UT : Saint George : Snow Canyon State Park : Island In The Sky : Circus Wall : Jimmy the Geek (5.9)
By: Ken Heiser When: Feb 8, 2005

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Comments: I lead this in one pitch for a really nice 180ft 5.9 pitch. Long slings are useful to remove rope drag. Really enjoyable face climb w/good pro.


Location: UT : Saint George : Snow Canyon State Park : Island In The Sky : Circus Wall : Pygmy Alien (5.7)
By: Ken Heiser When: Feb 8, 2005

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Comments: This is possibly the best 5.7 face/sport route I have ever done. Super pro, great moves, and great rock.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Lower Dream Canyon : Wall of Winter Warmth : Direct Cop Out (5.10b)
By: Ken Heiser When: Jan 11, 2005

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Comments: Hi Bob,

I still agree with Ivan that this is a bolted trad route.

Ken H.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Lower Dream Canyon : Wall of Winter Warmth : Direct Cop Out (5.10b)
By: Ken Heiser When: Jan 11, 2005

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Comments: This is a fun route.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Brass Wall : One Stop in Tonopah (5.10a)
By: Ken Heiser When: Jan 2, 2005

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Comments: Sorry. I forgot to mention in my description to rappel from the top of the "Varnishing Point" flake/pillar with 2 ropes from a two bolt anchor.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Highlands aka Highlande... : Job Review (5.11a)
By: Ken Heiser When: Dec 7, 2004

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Comments: I really enjoyed getting on this climb on the lead this past weekend. I thought it had 3 distinct cruxes first getting into the stem in the hanging corner off the ledge after the easy climbing, then the undercling left after the stem and finally the face move above the roof. Each of these sections seemed about the same difficulty to me. I found getting the clip after standing up in the stem to be really precarious. The rest of the climb after the face move above the roof is just excellent st... more >>


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : CO Hwy 7 & Tributaries : The Ironclads : Ironsides : Fire Widow aka Gypsies in t... (5.10c)
By: Ken Heiser When: Sep 27, 2004

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Comments: This is a really cool sequential face climb. I think someone used to 10c sport climbing in Dream, BC, CCC, etc would find this to be a big sandbag so I decided to go out on a limb a bit and rate this a bit higher at least for me. I am also positive that some holds are missing from when this was first put up that made the sequence by the third bolt (above the 2 bolt anchor on the 8) much thinner than it used to be. Also a green Alien in a horizontal crack can make getting to the first bolt fee... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Upper Dream Canyon : Dream Dome : Soul on Ice (5.11a)
By: Ken Heiser When: Sep 20, 2004

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Comments: This is one of my favorite routes in Dream Canyon. I led this yesterday by starting in the gully at the base of "Wrinkles in Time" going up the gully and then up the bolts to the anchor at the top of the pitch. This make for about a 170' lead. The bolted part of this pitch is very sequential and sustained and has some of the prettiest granite I have ever seen on a beautiful arete. I could not lower off even to the ledge gully on the left with a 60m rope so I belayed my partner up the route and... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Upper Dream Canyon : Lost Angel : Hunky Monkey (5.11b/c)
By: Ken Heiser When: Sep 19, 2004

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Comments: I did this whole route today and really enjoyed it.I agree that this is an excellent addition to this wall. I have done this with 2 people now and the consesus so far is that the first pitch is about 10b, the second about 10a, and the third 11a. We thought the last pitch was 10c and is a really short and fun. The very crux for me is the move after the steep section on pitch 3 stepping left into the bowl and then continuing up the arete and left side of the arete. This probably could be avoid... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Upper Dream Canyon : Lost Angel : Life on Mars (5.10a)
By: Ken Heiser When: Sep 16, 2004

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Comments: I climbed this route back in the early nineties on trad year and found the pro to be fine. I would give this route one star if the bolts were removed from it.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Cob Rock : Ms. Fanny Le Pump (5.11c)
By: Ken Heiser When: Sep 4, 2004

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Comments: The 11c crux moves are the first 5 or 6 moves of the ground in a very weird, awkward and strenuous thin dihedral.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Mountain : Mickey Mouse Wall : Asahi (5.10c PG13)
By: Ken Heiser When: Aug 16, 2004

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Comments: I did this route yesterday for the first time. I brought the rack and put in several pieces to [augment] the bolts. For me, even on the upper section of pitch one this would be very runout without placing gear. A #4 Camalot was a key [piece] on the lower trad part. I really liked this route and found it to be very diverse and enjoyable. What we got in exchange for the long hike on Sunday 8/15/04 was a full day at Mickey Mouse with no other parties on the cliff.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Cob Rock : East Crack (5.10b)
By: Ken Heiser When: Aug 9, 2004

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Comments: I led this route last week for the first time and really enjoyed it.We did the first pitch of Night Vision to start.I found the gear to be excellent and easy to place. Really fun route and a good after work excursion.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Bookmark : Star Trek (5.10a X)
By: Ken Heiser When: Jul 26, 2004

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Comments: I led the runout pitch on this route a couple of weeks ago.My understanding from reading stuff like the old New Hampshire, Gunks, or Eldo guidesbooks of the s or vs of pg or X system is that if you were to fall and die it would be vs or x, if you are risking serious injury then it is s or pg.This system did not take into account the climbers ability or what the difference in grade from the runout to the crux it simply looked at the facts for taking a fall.The facts for me on this route were:Be... more >>


Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon of the Gunniso... : North Rim Routes : SOB Gully (skier's left sid... : Escape Artist (5.9+)
By: Ken Heiser When: Jul 26, 2004

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Comments: I climbed this route yesterday with Dave Holliday. This was my first route in the Black Canyon. I really enjoyed this climb. I thought the Vector traverse was really neat and very intimidating and scary despite perfect protection. What I remember is going left on the ramp and it getting thinner and thinner till it looked like it would not go at all, then holds appeared for the wild moves at the end that I found to be very awkward and strenuous. I thought the crux pitch was one of the best pitc... more >>


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Bookmark : Fantasy Ridge (5.9 PG13)
By: Ken Heiser When: Jul 11, 2004

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Comments: I did this route today and led the first pitch (Joy and Tribulation) in one pitch. I did not encounter any S rated climbing on this route. My comment on the bolt for me as a lead climber is that it is not even needed as it is only about 2 feet above a super gear placement and I got the green and yellow Alien in a crack about 10 feet straight above the bolt that I felt were bomber. I also found the face climbing above the bolt to be pretty easy when compared to other 9 face I've done at Lumpy. S... more >>


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