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Bird of Fire. Photo Credit Alex Cooper.


Member Since: Jan 1, 2006
Last Visit: 13 hours ago
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Ken H
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Point Rank: # 114
Total Points: 4,016
Last Year: 6
Last 30 Days: 3
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 1231 | Routes 172 | Areas 45 | Photos 318 | Page Improvements | Comments 31 | Posts 37 | Stars 558 | Ratings 70
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : Southern Sierra : Courtright Reservoir : Penstemon Dome : No Zukes (5.9 PG13)
By: Ken H When: 13 hours ago

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Comments: I was looking to do some crack climbing and scary slab didn't interest me so I just climbed the first two pitches of this. Warning gear beta:
1) I climbed straight up to the ledge below the offwidth, (.5 C4 before traverse) then traversed left (yellow alien during) about 15 ft, up a slab move (small nut or micro cam) onto another ledge then headed back right, popped up a wide crack (#4 C4) to another little move (#2 C4) to the bolt anchors. 5.8 (100' rap will take you down)

2) Heade... more >>


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Commitment Buttress : Commitment (5.6)
By: Ken H When: Aug 17, 2015

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Comments: The climbing is good and fun but we had to wonder around on the approach and the down climb was a little funky. Great climb if you're training for alpine routes. Below is how we climbed it.

Pitch 1: Start at the toe of the buttress, take some slab to the far left to the corner. Climb the corner to a nice ledge with good small tree. Build a belay or sling the tree. 5.6 110'

Pitch 2: A bit of blocky scramble to the right and then traverse back left to find a lieback crack. (might be able to jus... more >>


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Commitment Buttress
By: Ken H When: Aug 17, 2015

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Comments: Same parking as Coal Pit Buttress. If you are using the Ruckman guide do not park at the pump house. Park approximately 2.3 miles from the exit of the Park and Ride at a gated dirt road.

Hike down the dirt road to the bridge. Cross the bridge and hike down the trail to two large boulders next to the trail; one has a small point nearly overhanging the trail. I'll try to post a photo of these at some point. DON'T use the small worn trail entering the woods up hill from these boulders@S... more >>


Location: UT : Saint George : Crawdad Canyon / Veyo
By: Ken H When: May 4, 2015

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Comments: Went here on Friday May 1, 2015. It was $9/day each to climb and $6/day each to camp. Pool was going to open on May 2. Place got really crowded with campers as we were leaving Friday evening; I would not have wanted to be camped there. It was sunny and crazy hot in the 80's so the stream and shade options were nice. It was fun to check out but place was a little strange for sure and doubt I'll be back anytime soon at $18/day for my wife and I.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Gate Buttress : East Gate Buttress : The Flakes (5.10b)
By: Ken H When: Sep 19, 2014

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Comments: AWESOME Route! Watch out September 2014, the middle of the second flake was full of wasps. They got real excited as we climbed past but we never got stung.

At the top of the first pitch of Tingey's Torture there is now a double bolt anchor. Rapping from here puts you perfectly at the base of the 5.6 hand crack. We left 2 old biners on these bolts [probably gone in a day] (If I went back I take two fairly large quick links).

From the top of the 5.6 I recommend going up to the base of the route ... more >>


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Black Peeler Buttress : South Face : Western Grebe (5.8 R)
By: Ken H When: Sep 17, 2014

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Comments: It goes without saying in LCC but watch out for rattle snakes and it seems especially here. My wife found one last year in a crack at the back of the big ledge below the start of Western Grebe and I almost stuck my hand on one last night after finishing the rappels. They like to hang out in the cracks on and around the peeler until the temperature is right to come out.

Also it seems the no trespassing signs are escalating. It seems to me there are more signs and new sign along with more no park... more >>


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Lee Vining Canyon and Tioga... : Lee Vining Ice : Bard Harrington Wall : Barbarians Near the Gate (5.10b)
By: Ken H When: Jun 30, 2014

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Comments: In the summer is it still best to approach from Edison Parking lot or is there a good spot to park on HWY 120 and hike over?


Location: NV : Red Rock : First Creek Canyon : Strawberry Hill Buttress : Berry Nice (5.6)
By: Ken H When: Dec 9, 2013

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Comments: The route was fairly nice and straight forward I thought but I took a star off for the garbage descent. This descent fall under the don't do it at night category. Maybe I screwed it up? First you have to climb down off the top of the formation; then head to the right and set the rap off a LONG extension. The second anchor feels like complete junk and then an easy third rap takes you to some down climbing. The down climbing and traversing takes some real time and some is very expose... more >>


Location: CA : High Sierra : Palisades and Surrounding P... : Thunderbolt Peak : Southwest Chute 1 (Easy 5th)
By: Ken H When: Jun 29, 2012

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Comments: This route is called 3rd class in guidebook but I think it depends a lot on snow. Plus if you want to stand on the very top it is 5th class for sure. If you just wanted to stand next to the summit pinnacle then maybe only 4th class. We had ice axes, crampons, rope, and some gear and used it all (June 2009). Since we had the rope I recall doing two raps back to the notch and down led the part from on top of the chock stones where you are to traverse on the 3 ft ledge as that was covered in sno... more >>


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Whitney/Lone Pine Area : Alabama Hills : Zoo Wall : Really Really Ridiculously ... (5.10a)
By: Ken H When: Jun 6, 2012

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Comments: Kind of loose and chossy. Expect this one to get harder as more and more holds rip off.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Pine Creek Canyon : Scheelite Canyon / Pratt's ... : ... : Gala Tumble (5.10d)
By: Ken H When: Jun 6, 2012

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Comments: If you are not solid at the grade you can take some gear about thin fingers to hands (maybe green, yellow, red aliens and green and red C4) but the bolts are all there. About the second to last bolt is hidden from view until you are close enough to clip it.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Pine Creek Canyon : Scheelite Canyon / Pratt's ... : ... : Supergrinder (5.10d)
By: Ken H When: Jun 6, 2012

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Comments: I thought the first pitch was great but probably only 5.9 or 5.10a.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Owens River Gorge : Upper Gorge : ... : Tall Dollar (5.10b)
By: Ken H When: Jun 6, 2012

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Comments: The roof was awesome and with the prefect protection not the crux at all. The crux is moving out to the right and clipping the bolt on the traverse. If you are not solid at the grade you might take a bit of a whipper.


Location: International : Europe : Greece : Kalymnos : Arhi : Perseo (5.10b)
By: Ken H When: Aug 27, 2011

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Comments: Thought we were going to go up Kalymnian Cheese but found the climbing above the Perseo anchor to be just poor and a little runout.


Location: NY : New York City : Central Park
By: Ken H When: Jun 29, 2011

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Comments: Checkout beta-boy.com/nycboulderingguid... for more info and pictures of route lines.


Location: International : Europe : Turkey : Olympos : Cennet (Jennet) : Tutsunami (5.10a)
By: Ken H When: Jun 16, 2011

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Comments: Not the last route on the wall but easy to find walking left looking for the crack running up and right.


Location: International : Asia : Nepal : Nagarjun Forest Reserve (ak... : Route 13 (5.10a)
By: Ken H When: Jun 13, 2011

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Comments: When we were there this route was in bad condition. You had to dodge the nats covering the wall down low or if you disturbed them they would get in your eyes, mouth, nose, and hair. Once past there was a large hornet or wasp nest about 2/3 of the way up. Luckily, I was able to traverse right onto the top of route 14.


Location: International : Asia : Nepal : Nagarjun Forest Reserve (ak...
By: Ken H When: Jun 13, 2011

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Comments: The directions above we helpful but had errors. The big one: You can only enter the park before 2 pm, if it is later they will tell you to come back tomorrow.

These are the directions for a CLIMBER WITH ROPE AND DRAWS who wants to climb. A guide will cost you about $30 US if you want. If not this is my beta.

Cost to bike out there: 2 bike rentals (500x2) 1,000, 2 entrance fees (250x2) 500, 2 bike entrance fees (300-800x2) 600-1600 = 2,100-3,100 rupees you might get lost but you get to bik... more >>


Location: International : Europe : Turkey : Antalya Geyikbayiri : Sarkit : Saxafon (5.11a/b)
By: Ken H When: Jun 10, 2011

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Comments: Clipping the anchors on this climb detracted considerably from the climb. Hard and a little bold at the end like so many other Geyikbayiri climbs.


Location: International : Europe : Turkey : Antalya Geyikbayiri
By: Ken H When: Jun 10, 2011

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Comments: A few things to consider. Turkey visas are simple for US passport holders only $20 for multiple entry for 90 days. Jo.Si.To and Climber's Garden both offer nice accommodation however without a car you are a little trapped there. If you are trying to travel cheaply they have a lot to offer but you will need to camp and cook for yourself. Important note if you are cooking for yourself you will want to find a way to get to a grocery store before driving up to Geyikbayiri. If you go deluxe with... more >>


Location: International : Asia : China : Guangxi Province : YangShuo : ... : Helter Incendo (5.10c)
By: Ken H When: Apr 3, 2011

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Comments: I would call this route really great if it were not for the really sharp rock after the last bolt. Really painful after the pumpy section.


Location: International : Asia : China : Guangxi Province : YangShuo : Moon Hill
By: Ken H When: Apr 2, 2011

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Comments: Charge at Moon Hill is 15 Yuan now you can ditch around but just pay it the first time you go then ditch around if you return. We didn't ask about climbing just went up and did. We heard no mention of not being able to climb. It is either funny or annoying that as you pull to the anchors on a climb a Chinese lady may yell "Hello, climber. Water, soda, beer." It was funny the first time; annoying by the fifth time. No signs of a toll booth other commenter speaks of.


Location: International : Asia : China : Guangxi Province : YangShuo
By: Ken H When: Mar 30, 2011

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Comments: PAYING TO CLIMB:
PLEASE DON'T PAY. NOTE: I've been an Access Fund member for years and do all I can to help keep climbing areas open and I'm saying Don't Pay.

A disturbing trend has started in Yangshuo of locals attempting to intimidate you into paying to climb at areas like: The Wine Bottle, Low Mountain, and Swiss Cheese Wall. The locals will walk up and say "hello" and then rub their fingers together. They are persistent and will hang around and probably yell at you in Chinese, m... more >>


Location: International : Asia : Thailand : Laem Phra Nang (Railey and ... : Tonsai Bay : ... : Dozer Days (5.11c/d)
By: Ken H When: Feb 24, 2011

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Comments: The lead is a little scary, the party behind us thought so too. Info here on second pitch is wrong. It is more like 3 threads and 4 bolts. To do it as 1 pitch it would be less than 60 m but the rope drag would be horrible.

From the top of pitch 1 go up then traverse right, pass a bail point with a bunch of threads and bail biners/quick link, go straight up from here to one more thread, this leads to an amazing belay ledge in the Golden Ball. You can access the climbs of the Golden Ball from... more >>


Location: International : Asia : Thailand : Koh Phi-Phi : The Oyster Blade
By: Ken H When: Feb 12, 2011

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Comments: The guidebook recommends telling a boatman you want to go to Ao Ling (Monkey Bay) this will likely get you taken to Hin Tak. This is further problematic that Hin Tak is the word for broken rock and the boatman may understand where you want to go and say Hin Tak (broken rock) which is a fair description of the Oyster Blade. The best way to get where you want is if you stand on the pier at shore, directly above the lamp posts is the Oyster Blade. If you get a boatman to come stand at the pier a... more >>


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