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Summit of Salbitjen after a two day climb of the w...


Member Since: Jul 6, 2004
Last Visit: 47 mins ago
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Ken Duncan
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Point Rank: # 436
Total Points: 1,490
Last Year: 1,390
Last 30 Days: 152
11 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 1507 | Routes 67 | Areas 8 | Photos 124 | Page Improvements 14 | Comments 47 | Posts 12 | Stars 852 | Ratings 383
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : Mary's Bust Area : Mary's Bust - main buttress : Dynamite (5.10a/b R)
By: Ken Duncan When: 5 hours ago

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Comments: Linking this and the first pitch of the Broadmoor makes for a great long pitch with not too bad rope drag as long as you place a few long slings.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Glacier Gorge : Arrowhead : Rain Dance (5.9)
By: Ken Duncan When: Aug 22, 2015

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Comments: Here is a description of how we did the route using a 70m rope. Most of the pitches should go the same with a 60. Start on a ledge above the highest grassy point right of the starting slabs for Arrowplane, etc. There are great belay ledges all the way!

P1. Climb the groove and fins above to a grassy slope 5.6. Belay at the highest grassy point.

P2. Angle up and left the the top of the big, R-facing dihedral then head straight up to another large grassy ledge 5.7.

P3. Climb the groove/flake f... more >>


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Glacier Gorge : Spearhead : Spear Me the Details (5.11d)
By: Ken Duncan When: Aug 21, 2015

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Comments: Combining the two 5.11 pitches certainly makes for one of the best pitches in RMNP. I think a Loweball would fit the pin scar at the crux beautifully, unfortunately I didn't have one.


Location: CO : Fort Collins : Poudre Canyon : The Narrows : Eve's Cave : Temptation (5.11a/b)
By: Ken Duncan When: Aug 18, 2015

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Comments: Anchor bolt and chain added.


Location: CO : Fort Collins : Poudre Canyon : The Narrows : Eve's Cave : Original Sin (5.10c/d)
By: Ken Duncan When: Aug 18, 2015

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Comments: New bolt and chain added to the anchor and brush trimmed at roof.


Location: CO : Fort Collins : Poudre Canyon : The Narrows : Eve's Cave
By: Ken Duncan When: Aug 18, 2015

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Comments: Temptation's hangers have been replaced and a new bolt added at the anchor.


Location: CO : Fort Collins : Poudre Canyon : The Narrows : Eden area : ... : Fish & Whistle (5.11a)
By: Ken Duncan When: Aug 17, 2015

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Comments: Bolts and anchor replaced today. Several small cams from 00 to #2 TCUs and a medium stopper needed. The crux is moving left and up from the second bolt. Several TCU placements follow. Save the 00 for the last placement (in a horizontal) before the third bolt.


Location: CO : Fort Collins : Poudre Canyon : The Narrows : Eve's Cave : Original Sin (5.10c/d)
By: Ken Duncan When: Aug 12, 2015

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Comments: I think this is just as hard or harder than Temptation to the right.


Location: CO : Fort Collins : Poudre Canyon : The Narrows : Eve's Cave : Temptation (5.11a/b)
By: Ken Duncan When: Aug 11, 2015

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Comments: Hangers replaced today. Needs a new bolt to be added to the anchor.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Hallett Peak : Jackin' the Johnson (5.11b/c)
By: Ken Duncan When: Jul 30, 2015

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Comments: Four star second pitch but only two stars on the rest of the route, so three stars overall. Great second pitch!


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Crystal Freeway : Exit Ramp (5.11b/c)
By: Ken Duncan When: Jul 20, 2015

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Comments: Replaced all the bolts on both the first and second pitches today. Also added an additional anchor bolt at the top of the second pitch but didn't have a quicklink and chain, so that is needed if someone is going up there.
The old and the new.
The old and the new.



Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Crystal Freeway : Orange Christmas (5.11 R)
By: Ken Duncan When: Jul 20, 2015

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Comments: Replaced all the bolts today. Even with fat bolts, the second half (or second pitch) is intimidating! The bolts on the second half/pitch are hard to see.

Bolt beta for the second half starting at the possible belay at the base of the Flake Out dihedral:
1st is about 30 ft away at 2:00.
2nd is 25 ft above at 12:30.
3rd is 35 or 40 feet straight up the rib.
4th is 10 ft at 1:30.
The old and the new.
The old and the new.



Location: CO : Fort Collins : Poudre Canyon : Crystal Wall : Duke's Wall : Pet Cemetary (5.11c/d)
By: Ken Duncan When: Jul 19, 2015

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Comments: As of 7/15, there is a very active hornet nest at the third bolt.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Glacier Gorge : Spearhead : Age Axe (5.10b)
By: Ken Duncan When: Jul 11, 2015

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Comments: Replaced the bolt on P2 today. Couldn't pull the old quarter incher though. The piton on P2 is missing but was able to get two OK small cams in the crack where the pin used to be.

The first three pitches are great, the fourth ho hum mostly due to the scree on the chockstones. The fifth is much better if you move right after the ramp to a dihedral around on the face, and the sixth is OK climbing around grassy hummocks and the huge jammed flake. Overall, a two plus star route.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Hallett Peak : Love at First Sight (5.10b R)
By: Ken Duncan When: Jul 6, 2015

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Comments: After seeing the description and topo of Bold Is Love in Rossiter's new guide, Love At First Sight appear to be to the right and independent of it.


Location: CO : Fort Collins : Poudre Canyon : Triple Tier Area : Middle Class Wall : Middle Management (5.10c)
By: Ken Duncan When: Jul 3, 2015

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Comments: From the anchors on MM, you can continue up and right on Streaky Stylee for a nice, long, 5.10c/d pitch. Be sure to keep diagonaling right, not straight up into the 5.12b crux of Overtime.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : CO Hwy 7 & Tributaries : The Ironclads : Black See : ... : Photo
By: Ken Duncan When: Jul 1, 2015

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Comments: Yep! It is good rock and fun moves, Ben.


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Beehive Buttress : Alien Dave (5.10a)
By: Ken Duncan When: Jun 23, 2015

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Comments: There are three bolted pitches with ledges between them above this. 5.10a, 5.9, and 5.9. All have bolted rap anchors, the rap anchors on top of the third pitch are ten feet left of the anchors atop the pitch.


Location: CO : Fort Collins : Horsetooth Mountain : Horsetooth Rock - West Face : Photo
By: Ken Duncan When: Jun 14, 2015

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Comments: Nice!


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : Mary's Bust Area : Mary's Bust - main buttress : Moon Shadow (5.12b)
By: Ken Duncan When: Jan 29, 2015

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Comments: Thanks for putting it up, Josh.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : Mary's Bust Area : Mary's Bust - main buttress : New Direction (5.11c)
By: Ken Duncan When: Jan 26, 2015

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Comments: Approached the crux pitch by combining P1 Maternal Damnation with P1 Broadmoor then doing a rising 5.4 traverse to the anchors below the crux pitch. Nice bunch of climbing that way.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Lower Dream Canyon : Krishna & Serenity Spire : Adam's Arete (5.10c/d)
By: Ken Duncan When: Sep 4, 2014

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Comments: Currently all bolts are there with lowering anchors. Great pitch!


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : CO Hwy 7 & Tributaries : The Crags : Upper Great Face : Paul's Boutique (5.10+ PG13)
By: Ken Duncan When: Aug 18, 2014

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Comments: Really needs another bolt at the start of p2. The pro is in rock that very well may break if fallen on leading to a 50 ft factor 2 fall.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : Mary's Bust Area : Mary's Bust - main buttress : Violet Blue (5.11c)
By: Ken Duncan When: Jun 27, 2014

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Comments: Did this again recently and I think the noises in the cracks are cliff swallows rather than bats.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : Mary's Bust Area : Mary's Bust - main buttress : Violet Blue (5.11c)
By: Ken Duncan When: Jun 27, 2014

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Comments: There is a short route between Violet Blue and There's Something About Mary that has excellent moves and goes at about .12b.


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